Wine: Lighter zinfandels

Many American zinfandels have become so big, they’re “monstrous,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. “Fans of thunderously powerful wines” might enjoy them, but I’m happy to report that a few winemakers have begun steering away from jammy, high-alcohol zins. The wines below prove that zinfandels can lighten up: Every sip “leaves you thirsting for more.”

2010 Ridge Lytton Springs ($35). Our panel’s favorite is nuanced and “beautifully structured,” with “spicy red fruit and a well-integrated touch of oak.”

2010 Nalle Dry Creek Valley ($37). This “fresh and lively” wine is distinguished by its “intense, focused, spicy flavors.”

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2009 Dashe Todd Brothers Ranch Alexander Valley ($30). Our favorite zinfandel from Dashe is “lively and well-balanced, with herbal flavors and an underpinning of dark fruit.”