Fiano: Enjoying a renaissance

White wines made from Italy's fiano grape have a smoky, lively flavor.

Among the many “ancient” grapes that are contributing to a renaissance for Italian whites, “the most interesting to me is the fiano,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Fiano is unusually versatile. “At base, it has a smoky, nut-like, spicy quality that I find very attractive, along with winning mineral flavors.” Yet it can also provide

“clean, cold refreshment” when the occasion calls.

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