Prosecco wars: Traditional vs. unofficial

Is there really a difference between Prosecco wine from Italy's designated region and those from non-regulated Prosecco vineyars from Brazil and elsewhere?

Is Prosecco’s popularity “too much too soon?” asked Monica Larner in Wine Enthusiast. This fresh, fragrant sparkling wine has experienced a phenomenal surge in demand. According to Italian law, it can be made only in an officially designated region in northeastern Italy. But recently non-regulated Prosecco vineyards have been planted in Brazil, Argentina, Romania, and Italy itself. Many official producers feel they’ve lost control of a 500-year-old tradition.

Our panel recently tasted 102 official and 41 unofficial Proseccos. We found the differences negligible. This is a “no-fuss, informal wine no matter where it comes from,” and its popularity is probably attributable to its sheer quaffability. Here are four exceptional buys:

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