Wine: True Chablis
If you aren’t a fan of Chablis, chances are you’ve never tasted it, said Michael Austin in the Chicago Tribune. The name still appears on jugs of sweet white California wine, but the real thing is produced only in Burgundy, France, and it’s “one of the great wine styles of the world”—a particularly clean, crisp, and dry expression of 100 percent chardonnay.
2015 Bernard Defaix Petite Chablis ($15). “Chalky and full of minerality,” this entry-level Chablis is aged in steel tanks and “offers lively acidity plus a whiff of fennel and citrus.” 2015 Domaine Servin Vielles Vignes ‘Selection Massale’ ($25). Unusually lush, this Chablis offers stone fruit and tropical notes but is still light and refreshing.
2014 Domaine Denis Race Montmains Premier Cru ($28). “Bracing acidity gives way to a floral essence,” but you’ll also detect notes of lime, gooseberry, and anise.