Wine: Greek whites
Aside from fairly popular assyrtiko, Greek white wines can seem a jumble, said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. The ancient land brims with obscure grapes and today turns too many into pleasant but generic wines. Quality is high overall, though, and truly distinctive wines are becoming easier to find.
2017 Hoof & Lur Moschofilero ($20). The standout in our recent tasting is produced by the Troupis winery in the Mantinia region. Moschofileros are slightly pink, and this one is “profoundly, deliciously herbal.”
2017 Manolis Garalis ‘Terra Ambera’ Muscat of Alexandria ($22). Made on the volcanic island of Lemnos, this unique wine is “bountifully floral, with balanced, distinctive flavors.”
2016 Giannis Stilianou ‘Theon Dora’ ($24). This “crisp, fresh, and minty” wine from Crete is a blend of three very obscure grapes.