Grenache: Its subtle side
Grenache doesn’t have to be brawny, said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Though the grape often yields “jammy” wines with a “portlike” alcoholic punch, it’s also versatile enough to please those of us who prefer subtlety, earthiness, and balance. While California has always produced grenaches in both styles, the restrained approach is spreading.
2014 Neyers Rossi Ranch ($33) This “fresh and floral” Sonoma Valley grenache is “beautifully balanced,” with “a spine of minerality and luscious flavors of red fruit.”
2013 A Tribute to Grace ($79) A Sierra Foothills grenache, this wine combines silky texture with “rich, high-toned flavors of raspberries and cherries.”
2014 Bonny Doon Clos De Gilroy ($20) In this nicely balanced Monterey County wine, firm tannins are offset by “savory flavors of red fruits and earth.”