Feature

The culinary delights of pigs’ trotters

The cheaper cuts of meat are due for a renaissance, said Kate Colquhoun in <em>The Daily Telegraph.</em>

Kate ColquhounThe Daily Telegraph

The cheaper cuts of meat are due for a renaissance, said Kate Colquhoun. Now that the economy is in a tailspin, we are all seeking ways to save money. The butcher’s bill is a perfect opportunity. Offal and organ meats are delicious, when properly prepared—the problem is that Britons have lost the art of cooking them. “How many will take on the challenge of a trotter or two?” How many have ever stuffed a heart? These recipes were once part of our culture. But as we grew richer, we became pickier about our food, choosing only the pricey cuts. In just one generation, the offerings at the meat counter “have narrowed to a bleakly dull round of sausages, lamb and pork chops, mince and stewing steak.” It’s time to revive that medieval delicacy, “umble pie,” which uses any bit of an animal on hand, including cockscombs, testicles, palates, tails, and gizzards. A return to the “flavors of our past” will give relief to the pocketbook. And British children will once again know the delight of hearing “the air whistling through the valves of a piece of sizzling tripe.”

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