Feature

The Sushi Economy: Globalization and the Making of a Modern Delicacy

Sushi

For generations of fishermen, writes Sasha Issenberg, the only thing harder than catching a giant bluefin tuna was getting rid of one. In 1971, a 700–pounder hauled into a New England port would merit plenty of grins and snapshots, but the unlucky captain could expect to shell out $20 to have his catch hauled to a local dump. Half a world away, however, a Japan Airlines cargo manager was plotting to change that. Troubled by the fact that planes transporting televisions from Japan to the U.S. were flying home empty, Akira Okazaki gambled that his countrymen

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