‘Why Lebanon should join the International Criminal Court’

Mark Kersten at Al Jazeera

What “will international law have to say about the violence and atrocities being waged against the Lebanese people?” says Mark Kersten. The “answer will depend in large part on whether Lebanon finally decides, as Palestine did, to join the International Criminal Court (ICC).” The ICC can “offer a modicum of accountability for war crimes and crimes against humanity committed in Lebanon.” This “would also provide Lebanese citizens with an independent, impartial and international forum.”

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‘How Giorgia Meloni fell to Earth’

Anna Momigliano at The New York Times

For “three years, Giorgia Meloni’s leadership of Italy has seemed unshakable,” says Anna Momigliano. Since the “beginning of Mr. Trump’s second term, she has positioned herself as someone who can curry his favor and avoid his retaliations.” But as Trump’s “popularity craters to new lows in Europe, and the continent begins to find a backbone in its dealings with him, Ms. Meloni is discovering that being a favorite of the U.S. president can be a liability, too.”

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‘We should stop trying to copy unhappy America’

Linda McQuaig at the Toronto Star

Canada has “declined all the way down to the 25th spot when it comes to something that’s really important — happiness,” says Linda McQuaid. In “many ways, happiness is a more meaningful measure of our overall national success than the always-highlighted economic measure of GDP per capita.” Debate is “dominated by talk of how Canada measures up economically, whether we’re as rich as the United States.” The “focus is rarely on whether” Canada’s “social supports are strong enough.”

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‘Like journalists, prosecutors shaped a distorted view of crime. They can help fix it, too.’

Kelly McBride at the Poynter Institute

Journalists “have misled the public about crime and are now trying to correct the problem,” and “prosecuting attorneys have been guilty of many of the same sins,” says Kelly McBride. Both “talk about crime mostly when a crime has occurred.” These “journalists and prosecutors (and police, too) inadvertently reinforce the public perception that crime is a constant, growing threat — even though we know the opposite is true.” This “shapes how people understand their own safety and the policies they support.”

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Almost from the moment she was elected in 2022, Giorgia Meloni, Italy’s first female prime minister, has seemed “in complete control”, said Hannah Roberts on Politico. The working-class girl who grew up in a down-at-heel Roman suburb, and shot to power as leader of the hard-right Brothers of Italy party, had – until last week – been shrouded in “an aura of political invincibility”.

Her centre-right coalition – dominated by her own party in alliance with Matteo Salvini’s populist party, Lega, and the late Silvio Berlusconi’s Forza Italia – has proved the most stable government Italy has had in years. But that invincible aura has now been shattered by her decision to call a referendum on her proposed judicial reforms, a flagship policy she claimed was needed to end supposed political interference by the courts.

The decision backfired spectacularly: in a vote last week that many considered a plebiscite on her leadership, some 54% of Italians opposed the constitutional amendment, which, among other things, would have separated the career paths of judges and public prosecutors, and reconstituted the bodies that oversaw them.

To Meloni’s critics, this proposal was a threat to judicial independence, and Italy’s three largest cities – Rome, Milan and Naples – all convincingly rejected it. In Naples, where the “No” vote received 71% support, dozens of lawyers and judges revelled in her resounding defeat: at the headquarters of the National Magistrates’ Association they sung the famous anti-fascist song “Bella Ciao” as they quaffed champagne. Her defeat has also given the opposition reason to be cheerful: Italy’s “torpid politics suddenly look competitive again”.

‘Spirit of vengeance’

The PM’s big mistake was to politicise the reforms, said Mario Orfeo in La Repubblica (Rome). Italy’s judicial system is in desperate need of overhaul, not least on account of its routine staff shortages and excessively long trials.

Rather than attempting to make it more efficient, however, Meloni was driven by “the spirit of vengeance”. For decades, the Italian Right has raged about the court’s perceived left-wing bias, a rage stoked by the “Mani pulite” (“Clean Hands”) investigations of the 1990s, in which hundreds of politicians were accused of corruption and had to stand down. The outrage grew under the premiership of media mogul Silvio Berlusconi, who had to face dozens of lawsuits over his business dealings, and who damned the judicial system as “a cancer of democracy”.

It’s in that spirit that Meloni and her allies – enraged by judicial rulings that have blocked plans to send asylum seekers to Albania and to build a $13.5 billion bridge to Sicily – approached this referendum. A “parallel Mafia”, is how the justice minister, Carlo Nordio, depicted prosecutors. Italy will be flooded with illegal immigrants and rapists, warned Meloni, if the “Yes” vote loses.

‘Surprisingly clumsy’

Meloni, who has immense political talents, has prospered by being pragmatic and forming viable alliances, said Luzi Bernet in the Neue Zürcher Zeitung (Zürich). But on this occasion she was “surprisingly clumsy”, foolishly assuming that her parliamentary majority would guarantee a simple victory.

But it wasn’t just hubris that led to her defeat, said Christian Rocca on Linkiesta. That “heavy blow” should also be put down to her close relationship with the “radioactive” Donald Trump: in Italy, where fears of rising petrol and electricity prices are rife, Trump’s Iran war is deeply unpopular.

This defeat marks a “major political turning point”, said Le Monde (Paris). Meloni is now weakened: the opposition Democratic Party, the Five Star Movement and the Italian Socialist Party, all smell blood. They are hamstrung, though, by a “glaring lack of leadership”. But a defeat like this will expose the PM to internal attacks and “sow doubt in the ranks”, said Federico Capurso in La Stampa (Turin). So ahead of the 2027 general election, Meloni will have to spend a year “in the trenches”. She may claim nothing has changed: the reality is that “everything has already changed”.

Since 1959, Cuba’s so-called “white coat army” has been one of the Caribbean island nation’s most distinctive exports. “From Latin America to Africa and beyond”, thousands of highly trained medical professionals have worked to fill gaps in overstretched health systems around the world, generating valuable income for Havana in the process, said Al Jazeera.

But the long-standing scheme is now under strain, as the United States seeks to “starve Cuba of much-needed revenue” by putting pressure on its allies to stop importing Cuban medics to prop up their strained health services.

‘Coercive labour’

“For decades” the Cuban government has sent healthcare professionals to work overseas in diplomatic arrangements in which host nations pay Havana directly for the services of its medics, said The New York Times. Doctors are dispatched to “work in remote villages and cities in dozens of countries” where local healthcare systems have difficulty filling posts, but the medics themselves only receive a “small fraction” of what is paid for their services. It is “unclear” exactly how much Cuba has received from such arrangements, but research estimates a revenue of around $4 billion (£2.9 billion) a year from the export of skilled workers, including healthcare workers and teachers.

US officials argue that the programmes amount to a “coercive labour export scheme”, said the Financial Times. The US has expanded visa restrictions on those involved in medical missions, including officials in host countries, whom it accuses of participating in “forced-labour practices”. Last year, it imposed travel restrictions on several officials from Brazil, “once a top destination” for Cuban doctors but where numbers have now rapidly fallen amid increasing pressure from the US.

‘Close to collapse’

“After nearly 50 years”, arrangements will draw to a close in Guyana, said the Associated Press, while “several other Caribbean countries” including St Lucia, Antigua and Dominica are also reviewing their programmes. Medical missions have also ended in staunch Cuban ally Venezuela, as well as Guatemala.

Cuba framed the end of the medical mission in Jamaica as the nation “yielding to US pressure”, said Cuba’s 14ymedio. But Jamaica’s “version is different”, alleging that Cuba “did not even respond” to a proposal to pay doctors directly for their work.

The impact is being felt well beyond the Americas. In Calabria, one of the poorest regions in Italy, the arrival in recent years of 400 Cuban doctors has been “essential to keeping local hospitals running”, said Reuters. But, under duress from Washington, Calabria has now “scrapped plans” to hire 600 further doctors, and is now scrambling in a “global search for medical staff” expected to cost the region €8 million (£6.9 million), said Euractiv.

Giuseppe Ranuccio, vice-president of the Calabrian regional council, told the outlet that the health system was already “close to collapse”. The Cuban doctors “were supposed to buy time for structural reforms”, he said. “But those reforms never arrived.”

Lying in the shadow of Vesuvius, east of Naples, Pompeii is justly regarded as a wonder of the world – a Roman town frozen in time by the volcano’s eruption in AD79. But equally fascinating are the coastal towns west of the city, says Julia Buckley in The Times, at Campi Flegrei, or Phlegraean (“Burning”) Fields.

Although much of this area is densely populated, it is an active volcanic caldera, comprising 24 craters, as well as multiple steaming fumaroles and bubbling mud pools. The ancient Greeks settled here in 730BC at Kyme, their first colony in western Europe. Later, the Roman navy was headquartered at Misenum. And thanks to the area’s thermal waters and “epic” coastline, it became a playground for the Roman upper class, who frequented a “city-sized” spa complex at Baiae.

Pompeii was a “bog-standard” town, but emperors built villas in Campi Flegrei, and it was also a place of “legend”. Aeneas “nipped down to Hades” via Lake Avernus, Hercules dammed up Lake Lucrinus, and Daedalus built a temple to Apollo at Cumae (the Greeks’ Kyme, now Cuma). Today, the area is “a gumbo of old and new”, with ancient remains scattered amid later development. Among marvels too numerous to list are the bathhouses at Baiae, which “spill down the cliffside like an ancient Positano”; the Piscina Mirabilis at Bacoli, which is “like a cathedral built by mermaids”; and “elegant” Pozzuoli – Sophia Loren’s home town – where young inmates of the local jail guide visitors around the Tempio-Duomo, a “jaw-dropping” Roman temple converted into a baroque church that houses three dazzling and “tender” paintings by Artemisia Gentileschi.

Small earthquakes known as scosse have been increasing in frequency in recent years. Experts say an eruption is not imminent, but each one is a reminder to “live for the moment” – a task that is made easier by the area’s excellent restaurants and vineyards. I particularly loved Scapricciatiello, in Pozzuoli, and Le Cantine dell’Averno, where the wine was “heavenly”.

There’s no one way to do spring break. Flee the cold and head to the beach. Embrace the snow and take a ski trip. Disappear off-grid to a remote locale. Settle into the heart of a big city. Let these ideas inspire your bespoke getaway.

Seek serenity at Hotel Belmar, Monteverde, Costa Rica

There is no rush at Hotel Belmar. Guests come here to slow down and enjoy the experience of living in the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, taking in the views of the “lush natural landscapes” from their private terraces, said The New York Times. The 26 rooms and suites feature high ceilings and hand-carved furnishings made from tropical cedar and teak. On each bedside table is a Good Night Guide, with tips for unwinding, and an herbal tea sachet with botanicals from the family-run property’s garden.

Both “quiet and adventurous” activities are offered, added the Times, like forest bathing, birdwatching, low-impact hiking and naturalist-guided night walks. There are culinary options as well, including an organic coffee tasting and cocktail and mocktail classes, where guests use “infusions, syrups, teas and muddled herbs or flowers.”

Race down the slopes at Club Med Québec Charlevoix, Canada

Sure, you’re on spring break, but it's still a winter wonderland at Club Med Québec Charlevoix. This mountain escape offers “crisp air” and a “place to truly unwind,” said Fodor's Travel. You’ll spot “ski gondolas dangling every which way in the distance” on arrival. The slopes overlook the St. Lawrence River, and because the property is all-inclusive, lift passes, group ski lessons for kids, teens and adults and unlimited ski-in/ski-out access are included in every stay.

Accommodations are “stately-meets-ultra modern,” said Fodor's Travel, and when not in your room or skiing, chances are you’ll be in the central building. It’s home to the indoor pool complex, steam room, gym, fitness class studio, spa, wine bar, theater and the restaurants Le Marché and Le Chalet. Start with Le Chalet’s “killer” charcuterie board with local cheeses and meats.

Enjoy the great outdoors at Hotel Las Torres Patagonia, Chile

In the heart of Chile’s spectacular Torres del Paine National Park is Hotel Las Torres Patagonia, a family-owned lodge giving guests the chance to choose between dozens of different guided experiences, each showing a different side of Patagonia. The Baqueano Cultural Experience is a highlight, with Patagonian cowboys and cowgirls providing visitors a peek into their life, teaching them how to saddle and ride horses before sitting down for some maté herbal tea and pumpkin bread with fresh salsa.

Hotel Las Torres is an excellent base for those who want to bask in the natural beauty of the park while staying in comfortable accommodations. Torres del Paine’s “rugged wilderness” is a “dreamscape,” filled with grasslands, “jagged granite peaks” and “glacier-fed lakes,” making it a “rewarding” spot for hikers, said Afar. Hotel Las Torres guests can embark on the famous W Circuit trek or take the sustainable trail — recently restored by the property and volunteers — to Base Torres viewpoint.

Welcome wellness at Lefay Resort & Spa Dolomiti, Italy

If you’re ready for a “best-kept secret” wellness experience with a side of incredible views, Lefay Resort & Spa Dolomiti is for you, said Vogue. The hotel’s “seriously impressive” spa is one of the largest in the Alps, with saunas, steam rooms, sensory waterfalls, cold plunges, pools, a salt grotto and the complex’s centerpiece: an “enormous whirlpool of magnesium-rich salt.” Guests can also break up spa sessions by heading outside for adventures like guided “pulse-quickening” hikes that include forest bathing and birch sap tastings.

Keep the theme going by booking one of the Exclusive Spa Suites, equipped with a bio-sauna, jacuzzi, selection of herbal teas and infusions and a private terrace featuring valley views. When it’s time to eat, you have options, but be sure to dine at least once at Grual. This Michelin-starred restaurant serves dishes based on the different altitudes of the Dolomites, with courses focusing on ingredients found in the valleys, passes and peaks.

Delight in a desert getaway at Rancho de los Caballeros Resort, Wickenburg, Arizona

Sprawled across 18,000 acres of desert land is Rancho de los Caballeros Resort, one of the “last vestiges of the true dude ranch,” said Condé Nast Traveler. The recently-renovated property’s “authenticity” is apparent around every corner. There’s a “rustic charm” to the Western-inspired lounge and guest casitas, as employees “walk by in cowboy hats and Wranglers” and Saturday nights are spent at group cookouts under the stars. Rancho de los Caballeros is the “real deal,” complete with a herd of 125 horses that are central to the experience. Guests can sign up for rides, barrel racing and roping lessons and team penning and watch the daily horse run, a “rather remarkable sight.”

All stays include breakfast, and more robust packages are available that cover lunch and dinner. Because of how large the property is, there’s room for a “constant stream of activities,” said Condé Nast Traveler, like archery, trap and skeet shooting, desert nature walks and swimming in the new pool complex.

Have a big city adventure at Tribe Hotel, Nairobi

At this stylish property in Nairobi’s Gigiri neighborhood, you might ask yourself, “Is it a gallery or a hotel?” said The Independent. The Tribe Hotel is filled with 900 African artworks and artifacts, including bronze statues from Benin and leather work from Cameroon. “Even walking to breakfast is a cultural experience.”

Shining a light on African and Kenyan traditions is important to owner Shamim Ehsani, who founded the hotel in 2008. The menu at Jiko Restaurant “spans the African continent” but “pays homage to Kenya’s farmers” specifically, said The Independent. It features dishes like forest mushroom soup with baobab powder and spicy suya nundu skewers with cassava. In the 10,000-square-foot Kaya Spa, a signature treatment is the Kenya Gold, which includes a scrub made from fresh Kenyan coffee beans.

When booking your stay, go with one of the “lovely” garden terrace rooms, which look out over a protected wetland. When relaxing on these balconies, guests can spot all types of birds, from “hadada ibis to marabou stork,” The Independent added. To see even more wildlife, ask the staff to arrange a night game safari at nearby Nairobi National Park, with the glittering skyline in the background.

Hit the sand and links at Tryall Golf & Beach Club, Montego Bay, Jamaica

Everything you need for an “unforgettable tropical escape” can be found at Tryall Club, said Forbes. There’s a world-class golf course, a beach club, tennis and pickleball facilities and a luxurious spa, plus an untouched, private stretch of shoreline that’s more than a mile long. It’s the perfect location to splash around or plop down a chair, soak up the sun and watch the waves.

No two accommodations are the same; The Tryall Club has 74 independently-owned villas, “each designed to be your ideal vacation home,” said Forbes. Choose the size you need — a one-bedroom for a couple, two-bedroom for a small family or 10-bedroom for a multi-generational trip — and decide which amenities are essential. For true luxury, select a villa with over-the-top outdoor features, like a “jaw-dropping infinity pool” or “waterfall you can sleep under.”

Come summer, throngs of tourists descend on the likes of Florence, Rome and Venice to marvel at the historic architecture and sample the delicious food. But for those willing to look beyond these heavyweights, Italy is home to some underrated gems that offer all the ingredients for a memorable city break – without the crowds. Here are some of our favourites.

Livorno

This vibrant port city on the west coast of Tuscany is a popular spot for cruise ships, but it’s also a “winning weekend destination in its own right”, said Julia Buckley in The Sunday Times. Just 12 miles south of Pisa, Livorno (historically known in the English-speaking world as Leghorn) was built by the Medici family in the 16th century “to rake in the riches of Mediterranean trade”. Now, bars “unfurl” along the canal, and “ghostly” Armenian and Dutch churches “quietly crumble”. There is plenty to keep you busy, from Italy’s third-largest aquarium (great for kids) to the Medici fortresses in the centre where you can “wander the eerie bowels and ramparts, then exit via the modern drawbridge across the water”.

Turin

With its “majestic palazzos”, “beautiful 360-degree views of the Alps” and “world-class restaurants”, it’s hard to believe Turin has “flown under the radar for so long”, said Luke Abrahams and Alessia Armenise in Condé Nast Traveller. Perhaps “most importantly”, the capital city of the Piedmont region is the birthplace of vermouth and the “beloved Italian tradition of the ‘aperitivo’”, so you’ll find lots of bustling buffet bars here. And every second Sunday of the month, bargain-hunters flock to the Gran Balon flea market to “get their hands on all sorts of fine Italianate steals”, from retro furniture to vintage clothing. If you’re keen to experience the “real Italy, far away from mass tourism” it’s hard to think of a better destination.

Genoa

Some use Genoa (Genova in Italian) as a “stopover on the way to the Italian Riviera”, but I think it “deserves to be a destination in its own right”, said Lisa Niven-Phillips in Vogue. The port city has the “character, charm, culture and culinary prowess” of somewhere like Rome – but without the influx of tourists. A “stylish alternative to Marseille”, Genoa boasts similar “colourful, hilly streets” to the French city, with “buzzy bars spilling across pavements”. Days are easy to fill “taking in the exquisite interiors and impressive art collection” of the Palazzo Rosso, wandering through the “tiny, medieval alleys” and “exploring the city’s hidden parks”.

Bologna

Home to a “marvellous medieval centre” and “piles of perfect pasta”, Bologna ticks a lot of boxes required for a “memorable” trip, said Sarah Lane in The Telegraph. The “lesser-known rival to Rome and Venice” has plenty of “treasures to be discovered”, including its world-famous porticos and “monumental statues with intriguing stories attached”. But the real draw is the city’s culinary culture. “Food is taken seriously here”, from the Quadrilatero market (“bliss for foodies with its colourful medley of sausages, cheeses, fruit and veg”) to the excellent pizzerias and pavement cafes.

Trieste

With its “sprawling waterfront location”, “broad boulevards and historic cafe culture”, Trieste feels “perfectly pitched at the modern traveller”, said Paula Hardy in The Telegraph. Filled with “pretty public gardens” and “wine bars that tumble out onto every cobbled piazza”, it’s a relaxing setting for a weekend away. There’s also an “epic” art museum, the Museo Revoltella, and a “wealth of outdoor pleasures”. These include scenic cycle trails, coastal clifftop walks and ferries to the charming town of Muggia, “where you can scoff barbecued fish straight off the boat”.

Nonstop flights help start — and end — trips on a high note. There are fewer stressors like worrying about tight connections or if your suitcase will make it on the next plane. Plus, you save time by not having to wait around the airport for the next leg of your journey. Ready for takeoff? Pack your bags, and book a seat on one of these new nonstop routes.

Alaska Airlines: Seattle (SEA) to Rome (FCO)

For its first foray into Europe, Alaska Airlines is heading to Rome, with daily, seasonal summer service beginning April 28. Travelers will board a long-haul 787 Boeing Dreamliner with three sections: Main Cabin, Premium Class and Business Class, which features 34 enclosed suites with lie-flat beds.

Rome was one of the most requested nonstop destinations from Seattle customers, Alaska said, and flight frequency was bumped up from four times a week to daily due to travel demand. It’s not surprising that this is already a popular route, as the Eternal City sees millions of visitors during the summer months.

American Airlines: Miami (MIA) to Bimini, Bahamas (BIM)

On Feb. 14, American Airlines expanded its already robust service to the Bahamas, launching direct flights to Bimini on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays. This is American’s seventh destination in the Bahamas and the sole nonstop flight from the U.S. to Bimini, a “collection of cays and islands” that “offer a mix of adventure and rest,” said Travel and Leisure. Divers come to swim through the “cerulean” water and explore a “coral reef system teeming with wildlife and tropical currents,” while anglers are drawn to the island’s “famous” bonefish flats.

Delta Airlines: Atlanta (ATL) to Riyadh (RUH)

This nonstop flight from Delta’s hub in Atlanta to Riyadh, the capital of Saudi Arabia, will be both a “historic” and “strategic move reshaping global aviation routes,” said Fortune. Delta is the first U.S. airline to offer direct service to Saudi Arabia, and it comes at a time when Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman is trying to “shift the country away from oil dependence and toward tourism, investment and technology.” When service begins on Oct. 23, flights will operate three times a week on Airbus A350-900 planes equipped with Delta Main, Delta Comfort, Delta Premium Select and Delta One.

JetBlue: Boston (BOS) to Barcelona (BCN)

JetBlue’s seasonal daily flight to Barcelona, set to launch on April 16, is the airline’s latest transatlantic offering. As with its treks to London, Paris, Edinburgh and Dublin, the company plans to fly Airbus A321LR narrow-body jets, which carry “fewer travelers” than twin-aisle planes but are “cheaper to operate since they require less fuel,” said CNBC.

Travelers should try their best to nap on the flight over; after touching down in Barcelona, you’ll want to immediately start exploring this “fabulous showcase of Catalan culture,” said Lonely Planet. Night arrivals are no exception; after dark, the city is “reimagined,” with plazas, parties and clubs “springing to life.”

Starlux: Phoenix (PHX) to Taipei (TPE)

Starlux’s nonstop flight from Phoenix to Taipei links the two destinations for the first time. Flights are taking off three times a week, with passengers boarding Airbus A350-900 planes featuring four “ultra-lavish” first-class seats and 26 lie-flats with direct aisle access, said Condé Nast Traveler. Upon arrival, travelers can hit the ground running, visiting the Longshan Temple and Elephant Mountain and stopping to enjoy “world-famous street food.”

United Airlines: Newark, New Jersey (EWR) to Seoul (ICN)

When United starts its daily nonstop service from Newark to Seoul on Sept. 4, the airline will be the only U.S. carrier offering direct flights to the South Korean capital from the New York City region. This route “capitalizes on Seoul’s rising popularity,” said Afar, with travelers flocking to the city year-round to experience its “four true and very scenic seasons.”

Seoul has an “extensive and efficient” subway system that makes it easy for visitors to “cover a lot of ground in a single trip,” said Afar. That includes the chance to sample the “storied food scene” and hunt for the “coolest new K-beauty brands.”

United Airlines: San Francisco (SFO) to Adelaide, Australia (ADL)

Koalas, kangaroos and delicious wines are now a 16-hour flight away. United’s new route from San Francisco to Adelaide is the first to directly connect the U.S. and South Australia, with the airline flying Boeing 787-9 Dreamliners three days a week.

Adelaide proper boasts a “walkable” center, with stops like the Adelaide Botanic Garden and Adelaide Central Market offering a “first taste” of the area, said Travel and Leisure. Outside of the city in the Adelaide Hills you’ll find 50 different wine cellars and Cleland Wildlife Park, where visitors can “interact with some of Australia’s most iconic animals,” like wallabies.

With its pretty pastel houses, shimmering blue water and rugged hills, few places are quite as beautiful as the Amalfi Coast. The dramatic setting has inspired countless writers, including Patricia Highsmith who first visited Positano in the 1950s. From her hotel balcony early one morning, she spotted a pensive young man walking alone on the beach – a chance sighting that sparked the idea for her novel “The Talented Mr. Ripley”.

Spring is a wonderful time of year to visit, before the crowds descend for the summer months. And while there are plenty of lavish hotels scattered among the clifftop towns, there are more affordable options too. Here is our mini guide to the Amalfi Coast for a taste of la dolce vita.

What to do

Ravello, “the region’s dreamiest hill town”, is a great place to start, said Louise Roddon in The Times. Wander through the medieval streets, then stop by at “the elaborate villas of Rufolo and Cimbrone, each set within highly romantic gardens”. The former inspired scenes from Richard Wagner’s “Parsifal” and boasts a terrace with a “wonderful sunset lookout along the coast”.

“If it’s warm – actually, even if it’s not – get out on the water,” said Elise Taylor in Vogue. Be sure to book a boat trip during your stay; the “most popular swimming hole” is Grotta della Smeraldo – a tranquil cave in Conca dei Marini (between Amalfi and Positano).

And if you want to get a feel for the area but don’t fancy braving the “squiggly hairpin bends” of the famed Amalfi coast road, consider hopping on the Sita bus which stops at towns all along the Sorrentine peninsula. It’s a great way to soak up the views of “lemon groves, pine-fringed bays, Saracen towers and pretty villages”.

For history buffs eager to “sample ancient Italy”, a trip to the “mesmerising ruins” of Pompeii is a must, said Helena Smith in Lonely Planet. “Achingly frozen in time” since the eruption of Vesuvius in 79AD, the city’s “frescoed homes, businesses and baths” remain waiting for their occupants to return.

Where to stay

If it’s “unparalleled” views you’re after, then the Caruso Belmond Hotel is a safe bet, said Taylor in Vogue. Nestled on a cliff overlooking the coast in Ravello, the “dazzling historic gem” is set within an 11th-century former palace. From the moment you step through the door you’ll feel “whisked away to another era” while outside you’ll find a pool “which has a serious claim to being one of the most picturesque in the world”. Sipping a Caruso spritz from one of the sun loungers while looking out at the sea is “about as close to paradiso as it gets”.

There are some excellent “mid-range B&Bs” too, said Smith in Lonely Planet. Stand-out options include “Casa Giovanni da Procida, prettily perched La Fenice in Positano and hillside Ercole di Amalfi, just outside Amalfi town”.

Eating and drinking

“You’ll find spaghetti alle vongole (with fresh clams) on practically every menu in the region,” said Smith in Lonely Planet. And of course, the Amalfi Coast is within “dough-throwing distance” of Naples, which is home to some of Italy’s best pizza.

Or, for “pure in-your-face romance”, book a table at La Sponda in Positano, said Nicky Swallow in Condé Nast Traveller. The “dreamy” restaurant – which reopens at the end of March – features a “beautiful vaulted dining room” lit by “400-odd suspended candles” and an “equally atmospheric” terrace looking out over the “theatrically lit town”. Dishes are “unfussy” and delicious; expect classics like “spaghetti with lobster fished from the waters round Galli islands” and a “light-as-air hot lemon soufflé” made with fresh lemons from Amalfi.

Was Italy ready for the Games?

Not entirely. But the Winter Olympics are now underway, and over the next two weeks, more than 3,500 athletes from 93 countries will compete across 16 sports, ranging from alpine skiing to luge to figure skating. These Olympics are the most geographically spread out of any Games in history, with 25 sporting venues and six Olympic Villages spanning some 8,495 square miles in Northern Italy. The two main hubs, the city of Milan and the alpine resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo, sit 250 miles apart. Construction delays and cost overruns have plagued the Games. Days before the opening ceremony, work was still ongoing at the Santagiulia arena, a new $292 million ice hockey venue in Milan; it was originally budgeted at $210 million. Some locals have been angered by the event’s environmental cost. Cortina Mayor Gianluca Lorenzi received death threats after centuries-old trees were felled to make way for a $131 million bobsledding track. Lorenzi insists that “the project is an added value for Cortina.” But history shows that the Olympics often leave behind a legacy of debt, white elephants, and bitterness.

How much did these Games cost?

The Milan-Cortina Olympics have an operating budget of about $1.9 billion—which is largely covered by broadcasting and sponsorship deals, and sales of tickets and merchandise. But that budget does not include capital costs, including the construction of new Olympic venues or improvements to rail and road systems. The Italian government allocated about $4.2 billion in public money for infrastructure spending. The International Olympic Committee argues that the Games pay for themselves by raising a city’s profile and attracting tourists, and some reports suggest Milan-Cortina could deliver a $6 billion economic boost. But most host cities do not see a positive return on investment: Beijing spent $40 billion on the 2008 Summer Games and generated only $3.6 billion in revenue, while London 2012 spent $18 billion and generated $5.2 billion. “For many cities and many countries,” said sports economist Robert Baade, the Olympics are “a money-hemorrhaging endeavor.”

Why are the Games so expensive?

It’s partly because they’ve expanded to allow more events, more athletes, more venues, and more spectators. But it’s also due to each host city wanting their Games to be more impressive than the predecessor’s. One-upmanship, extravagant architectural plans, and a comparatively short construction schedule result in big bills, which are often not reflected in the original bids. An Oxford University study found that from 1960 to 2016, host cities went over budget by an average of 156%. For some Games, the cost overrun was far higher: The 2014 Winter Games in Sochi cost Russia at least $30 billion, 289% more than was expected at the time of bidding. And the 1976 Games in Montreal went 720% over projections, leaving the city with a $1.5 billion debt that took almost three decades to pay off. “There’s this kind of relentless underestimation of costs,” said sports historian David Goldblatt, “because if anyone knew the real bill at the beginning they would never sign up.” Only one host city has turned a profit in recent decades: Los Angeles. It was the sole bidder for the 1984 Games after the Montreal debacle, and insisted that most events be held in existing facilities. L.A. ended up with a surplus of over $200 million on revenues of $619 million.

What happens to new infrastructure?

Ideally, arenas and other facilities get repurposed when the athletes go home. A 2022 IOC report claims that 85% of venues built for past Olympics remain in use: Rome’s Olympic Stadium, built for the 1960 Games, is now home to soccer clubs Roma and Lazio, and the colossal National Aquatics Center used in Beijing 2008 is today a popular water park. But many facilities fall into disrepair, because they are too expensive to repurpose or are simply not needed. A $38 million aquatics stadium in Rio de Janeiro was left to crumble after the 2016 Games, while Athens is
littered with decaying stadiums and pools from the 2004 Games. “We’ve got the ruins of ancient Olympia in Greece,” said historian Miles Osgood, “but now we’ve got the ruins of modern Olympia.”

Is there a more sustainable way?

Paris 2024 was promoted as the most sustainable tournament yet. Temporary structures were used to turn historic landmarks into venues—beach volleyball was played by the Eiffel Tower, judo bouts happened at the Champ de Mars—and existing facilities were refurbished and reused. With a total cost of $10 billion, Paris was the cheapest Summer Games in a quarter-century. But this stripped-back approach is possible only in cities with ample pre-existing infrastructure. “It will be very, very unlikely that we will see another city from an emerging economy or [one] that hasn’t hosted the Games already stage a new edition of the Games,” said Oxford University economist Alexander Budzier. The next Summer Games, in 2028, will take place in Los Angeles—which was selected after Budapest; Hamburg, Germany; and Rome pulled out of bidding over budget concerns.

How is L.A. faring?

Local leaders have pledged not to leave the city saddled with debt. As in 1984, Los Angeles aims to use existing facilities, and officials estimate the total cost of the event will come in at about $7 billion. That figure has swelled 30% since L.A. secured hosting rights in 2017, but sports economist Andrew Zimbalist said there’s still “a decent chance that L.A. is going to break even.” But many residents and experts wonder if spending on the Games is the best use of resources, with swathes of the city still struggling to rebuild from the devastating 2025 wildfires, an ongoing homelessness crisis, and the city’s nearly $1 billion budget deficit. “Given what the city and the region now face,” said Joel Kotkin, a fellow in urban studies at Chapman University, “why would you want to put more stress on it?”

For those of a certain age it’s likely that your introduction to the work of Franco Zeffirelli was his adaptation of “Romeo and Juliet”, in my case watched on a rainy day in school when the dreamy scenes of Italy transported us away from our cold north London classroom.

Villa Treville Positano is Zeffirelli’s vision of Italy brought to life. Once the director’s own home, it is now an ultra-luxurious hotel. Spread across four cliffside villas surrounded by beautiful gardens and hidden terraces, it overlooks the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea and the picturesque town of Positano.

Why stay here?

The 16 individually designed suites nod to Zeffirelli’s theatrical vision. Spread over two hectares of gardens and terraces with winding connecting paths, even when the hotel is full you still feel like you have the place to yourself.

I stayed in the Callas suite, inspired by Zeffirelli’s close friend and muse, Maria Callas. With high curved ceilings and tiled floors its iluxurious bathroom features stained-glass windows adding flashes of colour. From the linens to the toiletries, everything is of the highest quality – including quite possibly the best hotel slippers I’ve ever slipped my feet into. Branded in the hotel colours, they were soft and plush, not the usual mass-produced offerings. However, the room’s real highlight is the private terrace with seating that leads round to a private pool overlooking Positano.

As lovely as the suites are, the real magic is in the public rooms. Many of them remain exactly how they were, complete with photographs, artwork, ceramics and the original decorations. The skill in turning this into a luxury hotel is evident everywhere and what could feel like an untouchable museum manages to make guests feel like we’ve been welcomed to stay in the home of the maestro, where previous guests included Coco Chanel, Leonard Bernstein, Rudolf Nureyev, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton.

Eating and drinking

At the heart of the property lies Maestro’s restaurant set on a large vine-covered terrace with part of Zeffirelli’s original tiled kitchen still in use. Overseen by head chef Vincenzo Castaldo, the menu focuses on local and seasonal food, much of it taken from Treville’s organic gardens, blending Italian classics with global influences. With tomatoes straight from the vine and the freshest mozzarella, all the ingredients needed was a splash of olive oil. But oh my, what olive oil. Each meal came with a different one to try, all single estate, organic and extra virgin. The variety of flavours was astounding, especially when mopped up with the freshly baked breads. Among the endless delicious offerings was memorable salt-baked fish and noteworthy salads.

Needless to say, the pasta was exemplary, from simple tomato sauces to truffled masterpieces. In an attempt to help guests master this deceptively simple art form, Vincenzo patiently offers cooking and pasta-making classes.

Kneading the dough while looking out at the sparkling blue sea and sipping an espresso martini is wonderfully therapeutic. We made cheese-stuffed anolini with a simple sage and butter sauce, and fettucine with fresh tomatoes and basil, but the main lesson was how a few simple ingredients harvested at peak ripeness create much more than the sum of their parts.

Things to do

The spa clings to the side of the cliff and is housed in a beautiful greenhouse taken from Zeffirelli’s set of the opera “La Traviata”. Shielded by lush planting you can see the sea while skilled hands massage you with products from Barbara Strum, a cult brand harnessing science and nature to soothe all skin types, which consulted on the spa’s development. After a sublime massage you can relax in the Turkish bath and the plunge pool set on a private terrace outside the greenhouse.

If sea swimming is more your thing, take the winding path down to The Rocks, the hotel’s decked area with sunbeds and umbrellas. The lovely staff will make the trek down to you with snacks and drinks on request, or you could be whisked away in one of the hotel’s boats to have lunch in one of the many excellent beachside restaurants in Positano or further afield.

The verdict

The Amalfi Coast, a 50km stretch of coastline along the southern edge of Italy’s Sorrentine Peninsula, is already a stunning location but Treville Positano takes that beauty to another level. Through its hidden entrance on a steep slope you enter a sanctuary that harks back to the glamour of the past, where you can almost hear the gossip and laughter of its illustrious owner and his guests.

Finding that balance between theatrical high camp and quiet luxury is quite the trick but nothing feels overdone or out of place. Of course none of this luxury would work without the charming staff who make you feel like an honoured guest for whom nothing is too much trouble. Staying at Treville Positano is the closest I’ve come to experiencing la dolce vita.

Natasha was a guest of Treville Positano; villatreville.com

The United States is sending a powerhouse group to compete in figure skating when the 2026 Winter Olympics begin in Italy in February. While the U.S. has always been dominant in the sport (Americans brought home the gold in both the men’s and team events during the 2022 Winter Olympics in Beijing), this year’s roster has even loftier expectations.

Expected to dominate

Heading into the 2026 U.S. figure skating championships, where the Olympic team is chosen, many felt the U.S. would be “selecting the greatest American skating team to ever compete at the Olympic Games,” said USA Today. The selection of the final team showed this “potential was affirmed,” as the U.S. lineup is “strong and deep, with medal favorites in four of the five events.”

Much of the hype has centered around the women on the team, who delivered at the U.S. championships with “one sensational program after another,” said ESPN. These skaters are being called among the strongest ever seen on a U.S. team — a team that already features star alumni like Michelle Kwan, Kristi Yamaguchi and Dorothy Hamill. The men on the team are equally dominant this year. Still, this is all concerning U.S. singles, as “pairs has been the lone weak spot, and the country hasn’t won an Olympic medal in the event since 1988.”

‘A mix of seasoned veterans and rising stars’

The U.S. team still must prove how strong it will be, and how many medals it can rack up, as it heads to Italy with a “mix of seasoned veterans and rising stars,” said NPR. There are 16 total skaters, including men’s single skaters Ilia Malinin, Maxim Naumov and Andrew Torgashev. Malinin is considered the U.S. superstar, seen as “Team USA’s best hope for men’s figure skating gold, as one of the sport’s most revolutionary athletes.” He is the son of Uzbek Olympians and has a “penchant for gravity-defying quadruple jumps.” Naumov, another top skater, is dedicating his Olympic performance to his parents, who died in the Washington, D.C., plane crash in January 2025.

The women’s single skaters, Amber Glenn, Isabeau Levito and Alysa Liu, are equally impressive. Glenn “just won her third consecutive U.S. title” and at the age of 26, will be the “oldest U.S. ladies’ singles skater to compete at the Olympics since 1927,” said CNN. Liu retired at age 16 following her first Olympics, but “last season, she came out of retirement — and shockingly won the world championship.” She was the first American woman in 19 years to win the world title.

All eyes will also be on the ice dancing this year, as the U.S. looks to dominate in that category as well. The “three-time defending world champions in the ice dance,” married couple Madison Chock and Evan Bates, will “head to Milan as the gold medal favorites,” said The Athletic. The pair has won “just about everything else in ice dance except for an Olympic medal,” though they did take home a gold medal in the team event in 2022. The other ice dance duos, Emilea Zingas and Vadym Kolesnik, and Christina Carreira and Anthony Ponomarenko, are also considered strong competitors.

Chiara Ferragni, Italy’s most famous influencer, has been cleared of aggravated fraud following one of the country’s most high-profile celebrity trials, dubbed “Pandoro-gate”.

“The nightmare is over,” Ferragni said, after the “long-running scandal involving a charity Christmas cake” came to an end yesterday in a Milan courtroom, said the BBC.

‘Italian Kardashian’

Ferragni is an “O.G. fashion blogger turned influencer turned Italian Kardashian,” said Puck. Her blog, The Blonde Salad, which she started in 2009, “occupied an outsize portion of the industry’s collective consciousness”.

The first fashion influencer to “really make it”, Ferragni secured front-row seats at Milan Fashion Week, appeared on magazine covers and built a “multimillion-dollar business” selling her own products. In 2017, Forbes named her the world’s foremost fashion influencer.

However, more recently, Ferragni found herself in a harsher spotlight. She was accused of misleading her 28 million Instagram followers over a charity fundraiser involving pandoro, a brioche-style Veronese cake typically eaten by Italian families at Christmas.

In 2022 and 2023, “Ferragni partnered with Italian confectioner Balocco to market limited edition Pandoro ‘Pink Christmas’ cakes”, said CNN. The advertising campaign “suggested proceeds would go to the Regina Margherita children’s hospital in Turin” to support cancer research. However, it later emerged that the charitable donation was a €50,000 flat fee paid by Balocco to the hospital prior to the launch of the pandoro, while “the proceeds of the cakes would go directly to Ferragni”, in addition to a €1 million payment to two of her companies for sponsorship of the campaign.

When her fast-tracked trial began in November, prosecutors requested a 20-month prison sentence, alleging that the marketing of the campaign was deliberately misleading. Ferragni denied the charges, telling the court “everything we have done, we have done in good faith”, but she acknowledged that she had made a “communication error”.

Redemption arc

On Wednesday, she and two co-defendants were acquitted of criminal wrongdoing. But “most of the damage” had already been done before the case came to court, said Forbes. Ferragni has already paid a fine of €1.1 million to Italy’s antitrust authority, in addition to various other settlements , and her companies have been “bleeding millions”.

Pandoro-gate has already had legal ramifications. In 2024, the Italian government passed new legislation, dubbed the Ferragni law, imposing greater transparency requirements for influencers with more than one million followers promoting charity fundraisers.

The drama has “political” overtones, too, said Politico. Ferragni and her former husband, the rapper Fedez (real name Federico Lucia), were “famous for taking on progressive causes” and “pitting themselves against the more traditionalist Catholic mainstream” represented by conservative Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni.

As soon as the scandal broke, Meloni singled out Ferragni as the “wrong kind of role model”, criticising influencers “who make loads of money promoting expensive panettoni that are supposedly for charity”. Since his marriage to Ferragni “collapsed” under the “scrutiny” of the scandal, Fedez has “made an eye-catching lurch to engaging the political right”.

As for Ferragni, there could still be a “Martha Stewart–esque redemption arc in her future”, said Puck. The US lifestyle guru “did six months” in prison for her part in an insider trading scheme. She “emerged slightly humbled” and then “went on to amass more clout than ever”.

The Italian parliament has voted unanimously to introduce the crime of femicide – distinct from murder and punished with a life sentence.

Previous attempts to pass a law that specifically criminalised the murder of a woman motivated by her sex had failed to gather enough support. Then the headline-dominating murder of Giulia Cecchettin by her ex-boyfriend in November 2023 “shocked the country into action”, said the BBC.

Over 90% of the 116 women murdered in Italy last year were killed because of their sex, according to the national statistics agency. After this week’s parliamentary debate, during which many MPs wore red ribbons in memory of the female victims of male violence, Italy becomes one of the few countries in the world – and only the fourth in the EU – to categorise femicide as a distinct crime.

How widespread is femicide?

Every 10 minutes, a woman or girl somewhere in the world is killed because she is female, according to a newly published UN Women report on femicide. Last year, an estimated 83,000 women and girls were killed deliberately – with nearly 60% murdered at the hands of an intimate partner or family member. By contrast, only 11% of male homicides that year were carried out by an intimate partner or family member.

There is no real sign of global progress in addressing the issue, said the UN, with few countries even recording and reporting their femicide statistics. We “need better prevention strategies and criminal justice responses to femicide”, said John Brandolino of the UN Office on Drugs and Crime.

Why has Italy made the change now?

In Italy recently, there has been a series of killings and other violence targeting women. “High-profile cases”, such as Cecchettin’s murder, “have been key in widespread public outcry and debate about the causes of violence against women in Italy’s patriarchal culture”, said The Associated Press.

Cecchettin’s sister, Elena, attracted widespread media attention with her view on Giulia’s murder. She said the perpetrator was not a monster but merely the “healthy son” of a patriarchal society. “They were words that brought crowds out across Italy demanding change,” said the BBC.

What will the new Italian law change?

“In a symbolic move”, the bill was passed on the International Day for the Elimination of Violence against Women, said the BBC. The femicide law will apply to murders which are “an act of hatred, discrimination, domination, control, or subjugation of a woman as a woman” or that occur when she breaks off a relationship or to “limit her individual freedoms”.

The law does have its critics, who think the definitions of femicide are too vague and will be hard to prove. And even its backers agree that Italy still needs broader measures to counter sex-based violence and abuse. A separate measure to define sex without consent as rape, also “expected to get final approval” this week, “has been unexpectedly stalled” by the far-right League, said The Guardian. It would leave “room for women and men to use a vague law for personal vendettas without any abuse taking place”, said League leader and deputy prime minister, Matteo Salvini. Prime Minister Georgia Meloni, his coalition ally, criticised the delay, saying it is “women paying the price”.

Sometimes a relaxing beach holiday doesn’t quite cut it. Whatever the weather, the thrill of an adventure holiday is one of the best ways to make memories. Whether it’s raising your heart rate, the sense of achievement after a challenge, or the thrill of flirting with danger, if you’re looking for an active getaway, these are some of the best.

Everest Base Camp, Nepal

Everest is practically synonymous with adventure: at the very least, it is a “quintessential bucket-list” destination for anyone with an outdoors itch to scratch, said Outlook Traveller.

Whereas scaling the full summit is riddled with danger, exploring “the roof of the world” by reaching base camp lets you soak up the “incomparable” views without sacrificing safety.

Time is of the essence, however. The best times to travel are pre- and post-monsoon (March–May and September–November), “when the skies are clearer and the weather less full of surprises”.

Horse riding in the desert, Mongolia

Expect “undoubtedly epic” sights from the saddle in Mongolia’s Gobi Desert, said National Geographic. Home to the world-renowned Mongol Derby, a 620-mile equestrian endurance race riding semi-wild horses, adventure is never far away.

For something a bit more laid-back (but still not for the faint-hearted), consider taking a five-day horse riding holiday, averaging about 20 miles a day. Leave the comforts of civilisation behind to visit Buddhist temples, nomadic families, and camp beneath the “starry skies with your steed tethered close by”.

Hiking in the Dolomites, Italy

The mountain range has been there for millions of years, but Italians “caught on to the joys of a Dolomites summer during the pandemic”, said The Times. You can scale up the difficulty of the challenge depending on your ability. One of the “favourite” paths, from Cortina following the Alta Via 1, “cheats” by incorporating links to bus routes and “eschewing mountain refuges for the sort of small Alpine hotel you usually see on cuckoo clocks”. For a “pinch-me combination of sheer mountains, ultra-green meadows and cool air”, you can choose more tortuous routes (although you might prefer to take the cable car).

Extreme sports, New Zealand

New Zealand has been the go-to for adrenaline junkies for years, said The Independent. On your doorstep, you can find the “crème de la crème of bucket list activities”, such as skydiving, bungee jumping, and season-dependent snow sports on both the North and South Islands. All that’s required for this adventure holiday is a “leap of faith”: try a bungee jump with 8.5 seconds of freefall, 134 metres about the Nevis River, or skydive out of a plane 9,000 feet above Queenstown. That will get the heart racing.

Canyoning and diving, Portugal

Madeira is an “unsung paradise” for adventure seekers, said Euronews. Stella Kamba, founder of active travel company More Life Adventures, said that diving is the best way to explore the “reefs, caves and volcanic rock formations”. The archipelago’s abundance of outdoor activities makes it the “ideal shoulder-season destination”. Brits are starting to take notice; there has been a 12% rise in flights to the island since 2024.

The three-and-a-half-hour “Pico to Pico” trail is a particular highlight, scaling two mountains. If you prefer the water, the island’s Laurissilva Forest is perfect for “seasoned” canyoners, though there are plenty of beginner sites available too.

What happened

Pope Leo XIV Sunday elevated to sainthood two young Italians who died eight decades apart, Carlo Acutis and Pier Giorgio Frassati, during a mass in St. Peter's Square before a crowd of 80,000. Acutis, a computer prodigy known as "God's influencer" due to his meticulous cataloging of miracles online, died at age 15 in 2006, days after being diagnosed with leukemia. He is the Catholic Church's first millennial saint.

Who said what

"Saints Pier Giorgio Frassati and Carlo Acutis are an invitation to all of us, especially young people, not to squander our lives, but to direct them upward and make them masterpieces," Leo said Sunday, at the first canonization of his papacy. Acutis' "road to sainthood ranks among the fastest in modern history," The Washington Post said. His parents and siblings were in attendance at the ceremony.

Frassati, who died from polio in 1925 at age 24, was known for serving the poor and spreading his faith among his friends. He and Acutis came from prominent, wealthy families, and "in both cases, word of their goodness and faith spread quickly and grew globally," The New York Times said.

What next?

Pope Francis, before he died in April, had "fervently pushed the Acutis sainthood case forward, convinced that the church needed someone like him to attract young Catholics to the faith while addressing the promises and perils of the digital age," The Associated Press said. About a million pilgrims visited Acutis' glass tomb in Assisi last year, and "more people are on track to visit it this year," The Wall Street Journal said.

Not quite ready to make your U.S. Open debut but still want to unleash your inner Coco Gauff or Carlos Alcaraz? Head to one of these eight hotels serving up impressive tennis offerings.

Borgo dei Conti Resort, Perugia, Italy

Borgo dei Conti has had many lives. Once a 13th-century fortress, it was also the 19th-century estate of Count Rossi Scotti before becoming the secluded resort it is today. Tucked away in the Umbrian countryside, this "deeply romantic" property doubles as parkland, and its synthetic fabric tennis court is surrounded by tall trees and shrubs, said the Michelin Guide. There's also a court for padel, a hybrid of tennis and squash, and a "serene" full-service spa with a Finnish sauna and Turkish bath.

Cambridge Beaches, Somerset Village, Bermuda

Activities at Cambridge Beaches "range from the chill to the thrill," with tennis landing squarely in the middle, said The Telegraph. This is a vibrant property, and the blue and green tennis courts pop against the pretty pink buildings, turquoise ocean and "perfectly manicured" grounds. In between sets, cool off in the infinity pool, play a game or two of croquet, or go snorkeling.

Cromlix, Stirling, Scotland

Make some magic on the court at Cromlix, the charming Victorian estate owned by tennis great Andy Murray and his wife, Kim. The "regal" property "emits a sense of nobility," and this feels palpable on the tennis court painted in Wimbledon colors with an umpire's chair used in a charity match between him and Roger Federer, said Vogue. Check the schedule to see if Murray's mother, Judy, is coaching during your stay, and make room in your schedule to walk the sprawling grounds and find some friendly competition in the billiards room.

Enchantment Resort, Sedona, Arizona

Try not to let the incredible views from Enchantment Resort's tennis courts distract you from your game. Sedona is known for its "colorful red-rock landscape," and Enchantment is on the outskirts of town, "set right among all the beauty," said Travel and Leisure. Take in the sights during a friendly match, Cardio Tennis clinic or private lesson. Afterward, cool off in the pool and go to the Artist Cottage for a pottery or wood-burning class.

Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, Antibes, France

An "icon of the French Riviera," Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc is the go-to escape for those seeking respite in "bucolic surroundings," said The Hollywood Reporter. It has long been a haven for tennis lovers, who head to the five clay courts for a day of play underneath pines, palms and olive trees. Book a private session with a coach to refine your skills, then go for a dip in the cliffside saltwater infinity pool.

Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa, Rancho Santa Fe, California

Spring, summer, fall or winter, come to Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa any time of year, and you will hear the familiar thwack of tennis balls being smashed across nets. This enclave is the "epicenter of country club California cool," with the resort's 12 plexipave, three European red clay and four pickleball courts surrounded by gardens and citrus groves, said Vogue. Guests can also try their hand at padel and take lessons from pros before exploring the rest of the resort, a "terracotta, tile and adobe dream."

Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, Lahaina, Hawaii

Feel the ocean breeze as you practice your serve and perfect your forehand. Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa's three tennis and pickleball courts are steps away from Ka'anapali Beach, offering "seaside bliss," said Time Out. Keep the good times rolling by "lazing about the massive lagoon-style pool" and jumping into the ocean for turtle watching and snorkeling at Black Rock.

Singita Castleton, Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa

At the Singita Castleton, prepare to "experience a match like no other," said Country Life. The luxe lodge sits within the 45,000-acre Sabi Sand Game Reserve, and its tennis court is "surrounded by the sounds and sights of the African bushveld." Because of the property's location, there are several one-of-a-kind amenities also available, like a visit to Sabi Sand's anti-poaching canine unit.

Al-Ahli Tripoli were crowned champions of the Libyan Premier League last week not in Tripoli, or even Libya, but in Milan.

Political instability and logistical issues have made it difficult to host matches safely in Libya, and the fact the newly crowned champions' 2-0 victory over rivals Al-Hilal Benghazi took place in Italy was the latest example of a "curious collaboration" between the two nations, said The New York Times.

Explosive enmity

The play-off games between Libya's top six clubs have been held in closed stadiums in Italy in front of a handful of invited guests, to minimise the possibility of conflict.

But the game between Al-Ahli Tripoli and Al Ittihad "descended into a melee" that saw "rival players and staff members kicking and punching one another, forcing the police to move in", said The New York Times. The on-pitch clash mirrored the "security and political crisis" that "continues to plague" Libya more than 10 years after the "bloody overthrow" of Colonel Gaddafi.

Libya's football league is split between an eastern and western conference, with the top sides in each division facing each other in a play-off to decide the overall winner. But with the west and east of Libya run by separate and mutually hostile governments – the internationally recognised government in Tripoli, and the breakaway government headquartered in Benghazi – staging the tournament within Libya is not possible.

"Primarily, they would be worried about the security of it," Tim Eaton, a researcher at the Chatham House think tank, told The New York Times. "And it's not like they would accept to play it on one side or the other."

For the second year running, the play-offs have been held in Italy, an arrangement secured last year by Italy's Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni, whose battle to stop migrant crossings to Italy relies on the co-operation of Libya's coastguard.

Authentic farce

The road to Sunday's final "hasn't been an easy journey", said La Gazzetta dello Sport. Even though all six games were played behind closed doors, organisers have had to contend with "hordes of fans always ready for confrontation, even including some officials", necessitating "a significant deployment of security forces".

The play-offs have been "widely described" as a "failure and a disgrace on all levels", said The Libya Observer. Players have complained of "poor hotels" and "inadequate training facilities", while Italian authorities allege "delays by Libyan officials in paying stadium and hotel fees", as well as "unsportsmanlike incidents" during games, where officials from the rival governments have often been seated almost side by side.

And while Italy has "taken up the role of neutral arbiter", it still can't "escape" the political divides that "roil" Libya, said The New York Times. Last year's final in Rome ended in farcical scenes when the championship was won by Al-Nasr, whose president is the son of Khalifa Haftar, the dictator who rules eastern Libya.

In protest at the EU's refusal to recognise the Benghazi regime, the team refused to walk on to the pitch to receive their medals, leaving Italian dignitaries standing in an empty field. An "impromptu celebration" was held in a car park outside.

It has been a dream some 50 years in the making – but finally that dream is becoming reality, said Francesco Sisci in Formiche (Rome). Last week, Giorgia Meloni's government defied the naysayers to announce it had approved a 3,300m bridge from the mainland to Sicily, with work to start in a matter of weeks.

The world's longest suspension bridge, the €13.5 billion structure would transport six lanes of traffic and a double track of trains over the Strait of Messina – a stretch of water that has challenged mankind since "Odysseus and his companions were side by side at the oars" attempting to navigate the twin perils of Scylla and Charybdis. Now those two "rocks" will be "united" and the Strait – and Sicily – forever changed.

Attempts to bridge the Messina Strait go back to 251BC, said Amy Kazmin in the FT, when, according to Pliny the Elder, a consul moved 100 war elephants from Sicily to the Italian peninsula on rafts made of "rows of barrels tied together". From 1970, linking the mainland to Sicily was deemed a national priority, critical to the development of the economically poor south. Silvio Berlusconi issued the first €3.9 billion contract for the bridge in 2005, but the project was then beset by numerous political and economic crises and construction costs have since "ballooned".

Meloni's government, however, has found a cheeky way to finance the contentious project: she claims it is key for "national security", as it will counter Russian influence in the Mediterranean and thus is part of Italy's pledge to increase defence spending by 5%.

Only if the blockers don't have their way, said Christian Rocca in Linkiesta (Milan). They're lining up with reasons why this bridge shouldn't be built, from claims that the Mafia will profit, to environmental objections (perhaps they should study the current impact of ferry crossings on the Strait). It's the usual old defeatism. Yet if we want to avoid Italy's long-term decline, "we must act like an adult country, not abandon infrastructure" as if we were a developing world country "incapable of building it".

Don't be fooled by the hype, said Domenico Gattuso in Il Manifesto (Rome). There are countless reasons why work on the Messina Bridge "should not begin". There is no other "cable-stayed bridge this long on the planet": the current longest is 2km, in Turkey. Attempting to tension a bridge's cables between two end piers some 3.3km apart without the structure then failing to support its own weight is, to put it mildly, a "challenge". Positioned at "the worst point of the Strait", it would be exposed to strong winds that "could cause the deck to oscillate dangerously"; and on the Calabrian side, its foundations would be built on a perilous seismic fault.

But Meloni's government is ploughing ahead regardless – pursuing, in the name of populism, a "shoddy, risky and extremely expensive project that would cause far more harm than good".

Relief from the summer heat is just a refreshing pool or lazy river away. These 11 properties make a splash with their great water amenities, cooling you off even on the most sizzling days.

'Alohilani Resort Waikiki Beach in Honolulu, Hawaii

The fifth-floor infinity pool at the beachfront 'Alohilani is "fantastic," Condé Nast Traveler said, and from this vantage point you can soak up the Waikiki views without having to worry about sand in your shorts. The pool stays open after dark, so swimmers can look up to the "shimmering stars above" while listening to the "lapping of waves in the distance."

Amanyara in Providenciales, Turks and Caicos

The secluded Amanyara is as "premium as it gets," said The Telegraph, and that includes the property's black lava infinity pool. Surrounded by canopied cabanas, this tranquil space stars in "many an Instagram shot," with the turquoise sea in the background. Guests who splurge on one of Amanyara's lavish villas can enjoy their own private pools as well.

Andronis Arcadia in Santorini, Greece

Andronis Arcadia is "very much a vibe" for those looking to enjoy Santorini's nightlife, Cosmopolitan said. This all-suite hotel boasts the largest pool on the island, and revelers sip poolside cocktails while listening to late-night DJ sets. Want more privacy? Retreat to your suite — each one comes with its own private, heated plunge pool.

Flamingo Hotel in Las Vegas, Nevada

The Flamingo's fabulous new adults-only Go Pool complex stands out in a city that is known for its lively pool scene. Five pools are spread out across 1.5 acres, and each has its own distinct feel. The Main Pool is the centerpiece of the area, with a swim-up bar, DJ booth and shallow wet deck for daybeds and couches, while the shaded Grotto Pool offers a more relaxing experience, with its 50-foot-wide rain curtain waterfall.

Gaylord Rockies Resort & Convention Center in Aurora, Colorado

Kids love the lazy river, waterslides and indoor and outdoor pools at the Gaylord Rockies Resort & Convention Center — and so do adults. The property's Arapahoe Springs Water Park offers something for everyone, and the lazy river and its rocky grotto, bubblers and water jets is the biggest hit.

Grand Hotel Tremezzo in Tremezzina, Italy

All three pools at the Art Nouveau Grand Hotel Tremezzo are special. But the Wow (Water-on-the-Water) Pool is a showstopper. Floating above Lake Como, this "pièce de résistance" is "cinematic grandeur incarnate," said Condé Nast Traveler. For a quieter dip, head to the Flowers Pool in the garden or the indoor Infinity Pool.

The Kartrite Resort & Indoor Waterpark in Monticello, New York

It doesn't matter what the weather is like outside — at the Kartrite Resort & Indoor Waterpark, it is "always a balmy 84 degrees," said The Points Guy. All of the attractions are under a transparent roof, including the exhilarating Empire Bay lazy river, Krakken slide, Endless Summer Flowrider surf simulator and relaxing Affinity Springs pool.

Marriott Marquis in Houston, Texas

Everything really is bigger in Texas. On the rooftop of the Marriott Marquis Houston, guests can float along the world's largest Texas-shaped lazy river, designed for "optimal relaxation and fun," said the Houston Chronicle. It takes 15 minutes to go around, and when you are done you can swim in the adjoining traditional infinity pool or soak in the hot tub.

Omni Rancho Las Palmas Resort in Rancho Mirage, California

The heart of Omni Rancho Las Palmas is its family-friendly Splashtopia water park. Guests can relax while floating down the 425-foot lazy river, zoom down one of two 100-foot waterslides, dip their toes in the sandy beach, cool off in the play zone with fountains and sprinklers or warm up in the cliffside hot tub.

Sagamore Pendry Baltimore in Maryland

When staying at the "landmark" Sagamore Pendry Baltimore during warmer weather, plan on spending the "majority of your time" at the pool, taking in the harbor views, said Esquire. The 1914 Beaux-Arts hotel sits on Recreation Pier in Fells Point, Baltimore's "most party-hearty (yet still charming) neighborhood," and you can soak it all in from the infinity-edge pool overlooking the Patapsco River.

Sonesta Resort Hilton Head Island in South Carolina

The "idyllic" Sonesta Resort Hilton Head Island sits on a "stretch of the region's most alluring coastline," said Condé Nast Traveler, and the sparkling zero-entry pool is just as big of a draw. The gradual slope into the water provides easier access, allowing more guests to take the plunge. Find shade in a cabana or under the tropical foliage that surrounds the pool areas.

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If you have read even a smidge about Italian cooking, you have encountered the adage that Italian food is all about simplicity. Defining simplicity, though, is not always simple. Marco Canora's "Salt to Taste: The Keys to Confident, Delicious Cooking," published in 2009, traces the ways simplicity materializes in Italian-inspired cooking.

Successful simplicity demands either minimal or standout ingredients and also precise cooking technique and resourcefulness. Canora, the chef-owner of New York City's Hearth restaurant and also the arguable progenitor of the bone broth craze thanks to his brothy endeavor Brodo, shows you how these are endgames you can achieve at home.

Generational wealth

Canora's family hails from Tuscany, so "Salt to Taste" is riddled with the flavors of that central Italian region. Cacciucco is a seafood stew teeming with squid, clams, mussels and shrimp, its base piquant with tomato puree, white wine and dried oregano. Tuscan kale, aka dinosaur or lacinato kale, steps into the spotlight across the book. Its appearance predates the wrinkly vegetable's ubiquity so much so that Canora calls it "black cabbage."

He directs you to strip it of its ribs, then toss the leaves in a zip-top bag and store in the freezer. Then when you go to make yet another iconic Tuscan dish, the vegetable soup known as ribollita, you remove the kale from the freezer and "when you crush the frozen cabbage, it winds up in a million little pieces — just what you want." The leaves are put to softer use in a risotto with sausage and in a nonchalant braise alongside chickpeas served over soft polenta.

Two sides of simple

Little in "Salt to Taste" exemplifies Canora's proficiency in showing you how to build flavor like his pasta e fagioli. You first warm pieces of bacon and either prosciutto or pancetta in olive oil, then when the meaty bits have rendered their fat, you add diced onions. Cook down. Add chopped garlic. Cook down. Add fresh rosemary and sage. Cook down. Then comes tomato paste and, yes, more cooking down. Tier upon tier of compounding flavor are established before broth and beans are added. Right before serving, you boil short pasta like ditalini or elbow macaroni and mix it into the soup. Finish with a nub of butter and a dusting of Parmigiano, along with fresh ground black pepper and a lash of olive oil. Bowls of deep-seated comfort.

Canora's stracciatella sits at the other side of the swinging pendulum. It is no more than good homemade broth into which you add eggs that have been mixed with Parmigiano, parsley and a whisper of nutmeg. Cover the pot and let sit for a few minutes. Whisk the eggs and they transform into wispy rags. Five ingredients, plus salt and pepper. See? Simplicity is multivalent. In Marco Canora's hands it is also reliably gratifying.

Northern Sardinia is an exquisite place, with its turquoise seas, sumptuous sunshine, and mile after mile of rugged coastline – it's basically the Caribbean, but in Italy. And it's in this fabulous setting that you'll find the five-star Valle dell'Erica Thalasso & Spa, the resort more than matching the grandeur of its natural surroundings.

The mammoth resort consists of two distinct yet intertwined hotels – Hotel Erica and the newer La Licciola – offering 271 rooms and suites alongside a stretch of secluded coastline. It's an absolute haven of luxury and calm: the kind of place where beaches are quietly raked at dawn, golf buggies approach you offering lifts to your sun lounger, and, one morning, you stumble upon an actual helipad.

Why stay here?

My partner and I, and our four-month-old baby, stayed for three nights in a suitably named Junior Suite at the La Licciola hotel. The room was a stylish tribute to local Gallura traditions – vibrant, handmade fabrics dressed the headboard of the king-size bed, the furniture was made from materials sourced on the island, and warm splashes of terracotta-hued paint marked the walls in classic Mediterranean fashion.

The rooms here are beautifully understated in a way that emphasises their most impressive feature: bi-folding doors revealing expansive, glittering sea views. There's even a small window in the bathroom (which features a powerful walk-in shower) where you can marvel at the beauty of the Med while rinsing off its salt.

Stunning sea views are a feature for most of the rooms at this hotel. However, there is, of course, another level of luxury, with the piece de resistance being the exclusive Archipelago Penthouse – an ultra-luxe oasis in its own private woods at the very highest point of the resort.

Eating and drinking

Meals at Valle dell'Erica Thalasso & Spa are an event in themselves, with seven restaurants to choose from, and the majority offering a buffet service. I imagine that the words "buffet service" might make the refined diner recoil in horror, but this isn't like any buffet you've visited before.

At Valle dell'Erica, buffet dining is an art form – a gastronomic adventure where diners lurch greedily from chef to chef, eyeing up fresh pasta stations, meat and fish options that make your stomach yearn for extra space, and even a mozzarella corner. Yep, you read that right: a mozzarella corner.

Let me start with the breakfasts. They're outrageously good. Every corner of the room reveals a new delight: fresh pastries, omelettes made to order, detox juices, cold meats, the more traditional cooked breakfast items, an array of gluten-free options and, of course, mozzarella.

And as you ease into the evening, the delights continue. For dinner, we sampled three restaurants. At Nautilus and Il Grecale, we enjoyed heavenly sea bass, butter-like steaks, fresh salads and a tiramisu that almost brought a tear to my eye.

On our final night, we dined at Li Ciusoni, a hilltop restaurant focused on traditional Sardinian specialities. After a buffet starter of antipasti (my favourite was the asparagus tips in olive oil), we were treated to a veritable procession of pork – from minced pork with hand-rolled gnocchi, to slow-roasted suckling pig. And, in an almost poetic twist of fate, we spotted a wild boar on the walk home that night.

Things to do

Valle dell'Erica's most heavenly feature is its access to the sea. Take a walk in any direction and you'll stumble across a rugged cove or a picture-perfect sandy beach. And what makes these spaces truly special is the balance the resort achieves between wilderness and luxury. One minute you're exploring a near-hidden bay that you think you've discovered for the very first time; the next, a member of staff appears from the bushes offering a clean towel and a spritzer. Bliss!

For those who prefer pools, there are several, including serene, adult-only spaces and more playful, family-friendly ones. And for grown-ups looking to get their wellness fix, the facilities here have all the ingredients for a stress detox. The Thalasso spa has seawater pools, heated pools, hammams and (a first for us) a fitness swimming pool where the gym bikes and trampolines are submerged in water. A gimmick? Perhaps. But we loved it and left relaxed, recharged, and perhaps a little more toned.

Another stand-out feature is the resort's offering for families. The kids' club Ericaland runs from morning to late evening and offers everything from cooking classes to dance shows, and even a full-on Robinson Crusoe survival adventure for the older ones. Our tiny tot was sadly too young to take part in any of these opportunities, so instead we made use of the babysitting service to sneak off for a swim together. This two-hour luxury may well have been the highlight of our trip.

The verdict

This mind-blowing resort didn't just meet our expectations – it quietly exceeded them. And although time seemed to stretch while we were there, three nights definitely wasn't enough.

Caroline was a guest of La Licciola at Valle dell’Erica Thalasso & Spa. The 2025 season runs until 5 October.

When Giorgia Meloni became Italy's first female PM in 2022, many commentators dubbed her the "far-right heir of Benito Mussolini", and claimed that she wanted "to dismantle democracy", said Nicholas Farrell in The Spectator.

Three years on, Italy remains a democracy, and Meloni's party, Fratelli d'Italia, is more popular than when she came to power – an "almost unheard of" feat for a governing party in the West today. Meloni's memoir, "I Am Giorgia" – "already a bestseller in Italy" and now translated into English – describes how a "short, fat, sullen, bullied girl" from a single-parent family in Rome transformed herself into a prominent figure on the "largely male-dominated world stage".

There are some frustrating omissions: given Meloni's past membership of Italy's "long-dead post-fascist party" Movimento Sociale Italiano (MSI), she "should have spelled out why" she considers herself a conservative and not a fascist.

Even so, her book tells an "amazing story". Meloni has a "candid, self-deprecating streak", which is "amply illustrated" here, said Tom Kington in The Times. She admits that her father's lack of love – he walked out on the family when she was a child – drove her to succeed in male environments. Her writing is full of "pop and literary culture references": she learnt English by listening to Michael Jackson; she is a fan of "The Lord of the Rings", and as a young MSI activist, dressed up as a Tolkien character to entertain children.

Like most political autobiographies, this one is "self-serving", and glosses over sensitive episodes, said Colin Freeman in The Telegraph. For example, her break-up with TV host boyfriend Andrea Giambruno – after he was recorded making lewd comments to female colleagues – is barely mentioned. Still, with its mix of "humour and bluntness", this is a "punchy memoir".

Incorporating your love of music into a vacation is as simple as do-re-mi. Here are six ideas sure to make you break out in song, from tangoing the night away in Argentina to learning about the blues where it began in Mississippi.

Tango through Buenos Aires

Tango is the sound of Argentina's capital, a dance and music style formed from a "mixture of cultures and migratory currents" that arrived here during the 19th century, said Lonely Planet. Buenos Aires is known for its milongas, or venues where new and experienced dancers can pick up and sharpen their tango moves. La Viruta Tango Club is one of those "iconic" spots, blending "tradition and modernity," said Time Out. Milongas across the city offer classes, shows and open dancing every night of the week.

Have a gigcation in Las Vegas

The stars are always out in Las Vegas, as some of the biggest names in music — Kelly Clarkson, Eagles, Pitbull — take the stage for residencies. Bruno Mars stands out from the crowd, with his "electrifying" set at Park MGM's Dolby Live, Ebony said. His two-hour performance flies by, thanks to his incredible voice, smooth moves, lively band and frequent use of fireworks.

Pre-show, go to the Cosmopolitan for drinks in the sparkling, three-level Chandelier, where the cocktails are delicious (try the Verbena, with a Szechuan button that makes your mouth tingle and go numb) and the surroundings spectacular (a two-million-crystal chandelier cascades over each floor). For dinner, head upstairs to LPM for a taste of the French Riviera. The dishes and drinks here are light and flavorful, like the slightly sweet warm prawns in olive oil, citrusy yellowtail carpaccio and signature Tomatini cocktail.

Check into Grand Universe Lucca, a music-embracing hotel in Tuscany

Lucca feels like a Tuscan dream, a "fairytale-like city" filled with "towering Renaissance walls" in the "shadows" of the Apuan Alps and Monte Pisano, Condé Nast Traveler said. This "hub of culture" has long been a favorite for musicians, and composer Giacomo Puccini and jazz legend Chet Baker are among the artists who flocked to the "stately" Grand Universe Lucca. In honor of its melodic history, the hotel offers guests the chance to book the Prelude of Existence Experience. This includes a private meeting with a composer, who will turn the guest's interests into a personalized piece of music.

Follow the Mississippi Blues Trail

The Mississippi Blues Trail honors the "people and places that secured the music's legacy," with more than 200 stops across the state, Afar said. Blues was created by Black musicians and "pioneers" of the genre often learned from one another while "sharecropping on plantations in the Mississippi Delta." Stops include cotton fields, train depots, clubs, churches and cemeteries, with markers explaining the significance of each place. Highlights include the Blue Front Cafe in Bentonia, the "oldest surviving juke joint in Mississippi," and the "unmissable" city of Clarksdale, which offers "live music every day and festivals every month."

See the K-pop sights in Seoul 

K-pop fans can follow in their idols' footsteps at landmarks across Seoul, starting with K-Star Road in Gangnam. This boulevard is "dedicated entirely to K-pop artists," with 10-foot cartoon bear statues representing bands like BTS and Girls' Generation, Lonely Planet said. This is also where you will find the agencies that represent K-pop stars and restaurants and boutiques they often visit. Spend the rest of your day visiting K-pop music video filming spots, catching a taping of Idol Radio Live and, if possible, enjoying a performance by your favorite group.

Go on a road trip through Tennessee

The birthplace of Aretha Franklin, Dolly Parton and country music, Tennessee has "always punched way above its weight class musically," Afar said. Start exploring in Memphis, where you can "honor rock history" at Sun Studio and Graceland and "listen to the blues" on Beale Street. Head east to Brownsville for the West Tennessee Delta Heritage Center, home of the Tina Turner Museum, then take a guided tour of Loretta Lynn's Ranch in Hurricane Mills. You could spend a "day or a week or a month" in Nashville and "still not see all the greatest hits," including the National Museum of African American Music, Ryman Auditorium and The Bluebird Cafe.

Catherine Garcia was a guest of MGM Resorts

Before I had a baby it's fair to say I was sniffy about the concept of an all-inclusive resort. To me, they conjured up images of people racing for sun loungers, couples tottering around in search of their next white wine refill and children running riot as far as the eye could see.

However, Resort & SPA Le Dune, a sprawling resort set among the sand dunes of Badesi in northern Sardinia, proved my snooty preconceptions so very, very wrong.

With six swimming pools, as well as a shopping strip, tennis courts, spa area, vegetable garden and several mouth-watering restaurants, Le Dune is less a resort and more a self-contained luxury village. It's no wonder that the average guest tends to stay for a week as each day offers a new corner to explore, without ever leaving the grounds.

Why stay here?

I stayed at Hotel La Duna Bianca, one of five hotels within the resort and the only one directly on the stunning sandy beach of Li Junchi. My room came with a spacious wraparound terrace, perfect for soaking up magical sunsets each evening (and, thanks to my four-month-old baby, more than a few sunrises too).

I had clearly been treated to one of the best suites at the resort, but the same quality runs throughout the 496 rooms across Le Dune. All the accommodation shares a laid-back yet luxurious Mediterranean style (think lots of terracotta, ochre and cream), with plenty of space, buckets of sunlight and all those essential mod-cons which make a holiday that bit more relaxing.

One unexpected perk of visiting in low season was that Hotel La Duna Bianca's on-site restaurant was closed for breakfast. Rather than being a faff, this meant that freshly prepared eggs, juice, toast and fruit salad were delivered straight to my terrace each morning. Eating breakfast while watching the (occasionally very dramatic) waves roll in was an unbeatable way to start the day.

Eating and drinking

My three-night stay was a half-board one, so I had the chance to sample the dinner-time offerings of three of the resort's restaurants: fresh seafood at Lo Scorfano, traditional Sardinian fare at Carrimbanca, and classic Italian and Mediterranean dishes at the main restaurant, Nautilus.

Each of these restaurants operated on a buffet basis. When I discovered this, I was apprehensive to say the least, with ghastly visions of sweaty food and row after row of silver cloches. But this was something entirely different. This was an Italian buffet – and Italians rarely take a misstep when it comes to food.

Each meal was simply exquisite. From delicate portions of fresh fish at Lo Scorfano to mouthwatering morsels of spit-roast Galluran pig at Carrimbanca, I was blown away by the consistent quality of the food at every single serving station. Resisting overeating was impossible, so it became a nightly ritual to walk off my food baby while strolling with my real baby along the resort's winding paths, flanked by juniper trees and bougainvillea.

Things to do

The buffet dinners were a delight, but the resort's chief appeal for weary parents lies in the menu of kids' activities that are available. The resort's club welcomes toddlers to teens, who can take part in everything from archery and volleyball to football and tennis.

If your child would rather pursue their own adventures, there's no shortage of activities to occupy them as well as exciting places to explore, including nature trails, exotic bird enclosures and two kid/baby-specific swimming pools. There's also a 24-hour nursery area where food, drink, sterilisers and bottle warmers are freely available for the little ones, whenever they might need it.

But guests needn't have kids in tow to enjoy Le Dune. The Le Sabine SPA Wellness Centre is a serene, adults-only oasis, complete with multiple pools at varying temperatures, a fully equipped gym, a Turkish bath, and a selection of treatment rooms for total relaxation. Outside the spa, there are four adults' swimming pools to submerge yourself in, not to mention the sparkling Sea of Sardinia, which is just a short stroll (or an even shorter golf buggy ride) away.

The verdict

There were plenty of things I'd never done before having a baby: changing a nappy, listening to hours of white noise, clipping a tiny fingernail… and staying at an all-inclusive resort. While I can't say I'm thrilled about ticking off those first three, the all-inclusive experience completely won me over after a magical three days at Le Dune.

Visiting in the low season – when the days were warm but never sweltering and the resort was blissfully quiet – made the whole experience even more relaxing. I may just have found my new May half-term tradition.

Caroline was a guest of Hotel La Duna Bianca within Resort & SPA Le Dune. The season runs from 16 May until 28 September 2025.

Even the rich and powerful may not be safe from the world of international espionage, as recent reports have alleged that countries are using multimillion-dollar superyachts in spy operations. And at least one country, China, has reportedly been spying on the superyacht manufacturers themselves.

Wealthy oligarchs have long been both targets and tools of espionage, especially from authoritarian states. But the apparent superyacht spy tie-in marks a new chapter in this saga.

How are superyachts connected with spying?

Most notable is Russia, which is reportedly "using its unrivaled underwater warfare capabilities to map, hack and potentially sabotage critical British infrastructure," said The Sunday Times. Much of this seems to involve the use of superyachts for surveillance. Before Russia invaded Ukraine in 2022, there was "credible intelligence that superyachts owned by oligarchs may have been used to conduct underwater reconnaissance around Britain."

This is noteworthy given that many of these oligarchs' yachts have moon pools, which are openings in the bottom of a ship's hull that can be "used covertly to deploy and retrieve deep-sea reconnaissance and diving equipment," said the Times. This type of surveillance is said to go back even before Russia's invasion of Ukraine. In 2018, the British ship HMS Albion had been "docked for under 24 hours when a huge superyacht belonging to an oligarch pulled up alongside it" in Cyprus. British Navy officials suspected the yacht was there "covertly to surveil the Albion."

Beyond the yachts themselves, Chinese officials may be spying on superyacht manufacturers, in particular luxury shipbuilder Ferretti SpA, according to a Bloomberg report. In 2024, the "relationship between senior managers at Ferretti — one of the world's leading designers of yachts for the super-rich — and its biggest shareholder," the Chinese conglomerate Weichai group, had "soured over a share-buyback program."

As this continued, Ferretti's "executive director, Xu Xinyu, discovered he was being followed and found surveillance devices in the company's Milan offices," said Bloomberg. Similar devices were reportedly also found in the offices of Ferretti's board secretary and Chinese-Italian translator. This eventually led to a "spy-vs.-spy scenario" where Xu saw people "following him while visiting hotels" in Milan, said Robb Report.

How are other countries fighting back?

Countries are working to minimize the impact of superyachts that may be compromised by spying. Alongside NATO and other European allies, the U.K. is "strengthening our response to ensure that Russian ships and aircraft cannot operate in secrecy near the U.K. or near NATO territory," a spokesperson for the British Defense Ministry told Newsweek.

The U.K. is "committed to enhancing the security of critical offshore infrastructure," the spokesperson told Newsweek, noting that the defense ministry was also using AI to "detect and minimize threats to undersea infrastructure." This includes the type of undersea spying outlined in the yacht allegations.

Some outlets have also highlighted ways that superyacht owners can protect their vessels from intrusions. This includes installing a sonar system that "detects, tracks and identifies divers and underwater vehicles approaching a superyacht," said Forbes, as well as an anti-drone device that "detects and identifies commercial drones." While these types of devices are "being used to deter pirates" in international waters, they may also act as a deterrent for spies.

Sociable music breaks in lovely locations are sure to lift your spirits, said Stuart Kenny in The Guardian. Here are some of the best music and singing holidays to go on this year.

Singing in the Peaks

Amateur choral singers with a good level of experience might enjoy a trip with the likes of Singers Abroad, run by Graham Ross of Clare College, Cambridge. But you can find lovely holidays for singers of all abilities – such as HF Holidays' three-night break in the Peak District. Coach Su Grainger (founder of Singing Our Socks Off, a community choir in Liverpool) leads sessions in a "no-pressure" environment, and there's lots of time for walks in the area.

Folk under sail in Italy

Fans of folk music could try one of the many courses on offer at Halsway Manor – the National Centre for Folk Arts – in Somerset. But there are more adventurous options too, such as the tall-ship voyages run by Sessions and Sail: guests live aboard and take part in lessons, sessions and cèilidhs. The trips usually go along the west coast of Scotland, but this October there's a voyage around the Aeolian islands, north of Sicily. No experience – musical or maritime – is required.

Arabic songs in Morocco

On a five-night trip to Marrakech with Singing Holidays, guests take part in daily group sessions with the Belgian-Moroccan singer Laïla Amezian, exploring local folk songs, AraboAndalusian melodies, and the Judeo-Arabic vocal tradition. There's also the chance to sing some modern compositions inspired by ancient Arabic poetry. Accommodation is in a "leafy" riad in the medina, and there's lots of time to explore the city. Singers at all levels of experience are welcome.

Piano at Chetham's

There are lots of opportunities around Europe for amateur pianists looking to brush up their skills, while socialising with those who share their love of the instrument. Among the best known is the Chetham's Piano Summer School, at Chetham's School of Music in Manchester. Roughly 200 guests attend the two-week-long course, tutored by well-known classical pianists. There is the opportunity to focus on jazz, composition, the Taubman technique, and more, and beginners are welcome.

If Vogue is your Bible and New York Fashion Week is your Super Bowl, consider a stay at one of these chic, fashion-forward hotels. Surround yourself in stylish decor hand-selected by designers like Karl Lagerfeld, or try your hand at being creative yourself by making a Swiss watch or custom perfume.

Immerse yourself in the world of Ferragamo at Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco

This is your chance to walk in the famous footsteps of Italian shoe designer Salvatore Ferragamo. Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco, a 900-year-old estate once owned by the Ferragamo family, is a boutique property in the Tuscan countryside with "intoxicatingly comfortable" suites and villas, the Michelin Guide said. The property's Made in Tuscany experience starts with wine and cheese in the lounge before heading into Florence to visit the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum and view its special "Salvatore Ferragamo 1898-1960" exhibition. To cap the day, spend some time — and $$$ — in Ferragamo's flagship store during a VIP shopping trip.

Have a Dior experience at D Maris Bay

The beauty of D Maris Bay on the Datca Peninsula is enhanced by its collaboration with Dior. Situated between forestland and the "extraordinary blues of the Aegean Sea," this is "one of the best resorts not just in Turkey but in all the Mediterranean," Condé Nast Traveler said. There are pops of Dior across the property, with the fashion house's signature sun fabric covering umbrellas, loungers and floats at the main pool and a Dioriviera boutique enticing shoppers.

Enjoy a model moment at Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria

When the time came to shoot Moda Operandi's campaign for its capsule collection Club Moda Riviera, only one location would do: Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria. This is the "crown jewel" of Sorrento's hotels, right on the water in an "excellent location off Piazza Tasso," said Forbes. To celebrate the collaboration, book the One-of-a-Kind Stay in Sorrento package, which includes two nights in a gorgeous suite with private terrace, exclusive amenities from Moda Operandi and Moda Domus, and a private style consultation with a local leather artisan.

Enter the mind of a legendary designer at The Karl Lagerfeld

The late Karl Lagerfeld designed the red, black and gold interiors of his Macau hotel "from top to bottom," and you can feel his "presence everywhere," the Michelin Guide said. Expect a "glamorous experience" with a "deference to classic Chinese interior design" filtered through the "Lagerfeld sensibility." There are also plenty of places to relax, including the "lavish" pool and health club and Book Lounge with 4,000 books, each title chosen by Lagerfeld.

Create a custom scent at Kimpton George

Your new signature fragrance is a hotel stay away. At the boutique Kimpton George in Washington, D.C., guests can take a weekly class led by Bontu Itana, the owner and founder of local fragrance shop B Parfums. She discusses the science of fragrance and shares tips on crafting the perfect blend before turning guests loose to create their own 1-ounce scent. Creativity abounds at the Kimpton George, a space filled with "bright colors and contemporary art" that has "modernity down pat," U.S. News said.

Assemble a Swiss watch at La Réserve Genève

Handcrafted Swiss watches are known the world over for their precision, durability and high-quality materials. Under the careful eye of a master watchmaker, La Réserve Genève guests have the opportunity to make their own timepiece, using tweezers and screwdrivers to create a souvenir they will keep forever. It is an elegant way to spend time at this sophisticated property, which boasts "topiary-trimmed gardens" and vintage motorboats guests can use on the lake, Condé Nast Traveler said.

Learn about Italian craftsmanship at Hotel Poseidon

Hotel Poseidon's hand-painted tiles and signature red-and-white color scheme inspire guests and local artisans alike. This "retro" slice of paradise has been owned by the Aonzo family since the 1950s, and the "lovely" team goes to "huge pains" to ensure guests get the "most out of their beloved Positano and the whole Amalfi Coast experience," The Telegraph said. That includes arranging a special encounter with Aonzo family friend Crescenzo Parlato, the designer behind Creo Positano sunglasses. He created a 12-pair wooden sunglasses collection based on the Hotel Poseidon's style, and guests are invited to go to his atelier and learn about his process and watch as he makes a pair.

Scattered across the Tyrrhenian Sea to the northeast of Sicily, the Aeolian Islands were home to fishermen and farmers who were still living in "19th century" conditions when Italy's neo-realist film directors began using the islands as film locations in the 1950s.

Since then, they have acquired electricity and holiday villas, and have attracted the "superyacht crowd" – yet they retain a "timeless" quality, with their "savage" volcanic landscapes and "sugar cube" houses, said Stephanie Rafanelli in Condé Nast Traveller.

The most famous is Stromboli, the setting for Roberto Rossellini's 1950 film of the same name, but this towering, conical volcano (which has been erupting almost continuously since 350BC) is best viewed from neighbouring Panarea, the smallest of the archipelago's seven inhabited islands. Less than two miles across, and home to only 300 people, it offers peace and natural beauty in abundance. There are no five-star hotels, no big brands and no marinas on Panarea, but it has been in favour with "the bohemian Milanese set" since the 1960s. In the 1970s, the designers Myriam Beltrami and Paolo Tilche built Raya, a hillside hotel that resembles a "helter-skelter wedding cake". Its open-air nightclub attracted the likes of Aristotle Onassis and Gianni Agnelli, and still has a "louche" reputation.

The little harbour town of San Pietro has other "white, tiled" hotels, such as La Piazza and Hotel Lisca Bianca, and some pleasant restaurants (most famously, Da Pina). And beside a "wild, fennel-strewn" road nearby is a beautiful 1970s villa, Antika, available for short lets. Built by Tilche in his "primitive-modernist" style, it has five bedrooms, big verandas with sea views, and a private chef who prepares "exquisite" plates with local ingredients. Walking the island's ancient shepherds' paths is a delight, but equally wonderful are boat trips to the rocky islets nearby. Their "fractured" profiles feature in Antonioni's 1960 film "L'Avventura"; on one, you can see the mosaic floor of a Roman villa.

Stays at Antika cost from £11,995 per week (thethinkingtraveller.com).

Ask someone to think of an animal beloved around the world, and more often than not, their reply might be, "horse." These beautiful, intelligent creatures form tight bonds with humans, both through work and pleasure. They also embody the urge so many of us have to wander and roam. Whether you want to interact with or simply better appreciate horses, consider one of these equestrian activities during your travels.

Attend the Argentine Open Polo Championship in Buenos Aires

Polo got its start approximately 2,000 years ago when a "very inventive person living in central Asia" hopped on a horse, grabbed a stick and started to "knock around a ball with some friends," The Times said. Today, one of the sport's most "prestigious" events is the Argentine Open, held at the Campo Argentino de Polo, or Cathedral of Polo, every November and December. Tickets are pricey, and if you visit another time of year, you can instead watch local clubs play. Even if you are a newbie to polo, there is "something thrilling about watching athletes on ponies racing across a field," Condé Nast Traveler said.

See the wild horses of Assateague Island in Maryland and Virginia

No one is sure how the first wild horses arrived on Assateague Island several hundred years ago, and the mystery is part of the equines' charm. This mid-Atlantic barrier island is shared by Maryland and Virginia, and during the spring, it is "not uncommon to spot mares strolling around with their foals," Travel and Leisure said. Horses are spotted more frequently on the Maryland side, but you can ride them year-round in Virginia (this is a seasonal offering in Maryland). Assateague Island does not have any hotels, but camping on the Maryland side is an option and lets you "fall asleep to waves crashing" and "wake up to horses roaming free along the beach."

View Przewalski's horses at Hustai National Park in Mongolia

In Mongolia, horses play a "significant" role in the country's culture, Travel and Leisure said, inspiring music, art and even drinks: Airag, made of fermented mare's milk, is the national beverage. Hustai National Park was created in 1998 as a refuge for Przewalski's horse, or takhi, the only wild horse species still left in central Asia. The animal was hunted to extinction in the wild five decades ago, but thanks to a successful reintroduction program, there are now more than 400 takhi living in the national park.

Go trail riding through Iceland

Seeing Iceland from the back of a horse is quite memorable. Icelandic horses are "unique," Condé Nast Traveler UK said, with a "fifth gait, the famously smooth tölt." When riding, it feels like the "equestrian equivalent of driving in a Rolls-Royce," and makes a long journey seem over in the blink of an eye.

Visitors can book multi-day trail rides that take them along golden and black sand beaches, through lava fields, past waterfalls and between glaciers, depending on the season and weather. During these treks, you "travel through spaces that cannot be traversed on foot," and it is "amazing" how the horses navigate "difficult, rocky terrain with such plucky, surefooted lightness."

Check out the International Museum of the Horse in Kentucky

The connection between horses and humans is strong and has been for centuries. At the International Museum of the Horse, the ties that bind are on display in fascinating exhibitions like Legacy of the Horse, which looks back on five million years of history; Black Horsemen of the Kentucky Turf; and Draft Horse in America. Fans of horse racing will enjoy spaces dedicated to Triple Crown winner Affirmed and Calumet Farm's Thoroughbred racing trophies. The museum covers 64,000 square feet and is filled with more than 16,000 artifacts, from folk art to horse-drawn vehicles.

Visit the Royal Mews in London

You can't stroll into Buckingham Palace and meet the king, but you can visit his stables at the Royal Mews. Considered one of the world's finest working stables, it is home to about 30 horses and the royal family's dazzling collection of coaches and carriages. The centerpiece is the opulent 260-year-old Gold State Coach used during the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, the Platinum Jubilee in 2022 and the coronation of King Charles III in 2023.

Witness the Sa Sartiglia festival in Sardinia

The start of the yearly Sa Sartiglia festival may look like "some occult apocalypse," Atlas Obscura said, but this "strange and fascinating sight" is an ancient medieval celebration dating to the 1500s. It involves "horsemen in terrifying doll masks" racing through the streets of Oristano and trying to grab a tin star with their sword. Being part of the "raving" crowd, watching the action unfold, is a thrill.

With its cypress tree-lined meadows and neatly manicured vineyards, Tuscany is an "oenophile's paradise", said The Times. The region is home to some of the planet's most noteworthy wine areas from Chianti to Montepulciano.

Tuscan wine tours are an "immersive" experience that offer a fascinating insight into the region's "fabric and history", said Decanter. Chianti country is just a short drive from the "charming" city of Florence. Nestled on a mountain slope overlooking the Arno River Valley in the heart of Chianti Rùfina, Castello di Nipozzano is one of the oldest estates in the area. Tastings take place inside the 1,000-year-old castle, and visitors can take a tour of the "monumental" cellars used to age the estate's precious vintages.

For something more "modern", Antinori nel Chianti Classico is an excellent option. Opened in 2013, the "slick" winery was designed by renowned Italian architect Marco Casamonti to blend in seamlessly with the surrounding environment. The winery is partially "hidden"; most of it lies underground where huge terracotta vaults create the "perfect climatic conditions" for the barrels. Consider taking the two-and-a-half-hour Bottaia Cru tour, which includes a tasting in a beautiful suspended glass room and lunch at the rooftop restaurant.

Around a two-hour drive away in Montepulciano, the "unassuming" entrance of Cantina De' Ricci leads to a "labyrinth of ancient stone cellars" with breathtaking vaulted ceilings and exposed brick walls, said Glamour. Known as the "Cathedral Winery" this "unique" landmark is an "unmissable" spot for history and architecture enthusiasts.

And for those with a penchant for natural wines, it's well worth travelling to Ampeleia – a small winery just outside the medieval village of Roccatederighi, not far from the coast, said Forbes. Located in a "lesser-travelled corner" of Alta Maremma, the estate was acquired by Elisabetta Foradori, Thomas Widmann and Giovanni Podini back in 2002 and transformed into a biodynamic farm. The often "overshadowed" Alicante Nero grape variety "thrives" in the region's Mediterranean climate and the wines are "layered and expressive" with "bright acidity" and "subtle spice". Visitors can drop by for tastings, cooking classes and meals out on the sunny terrace.

Any vacation can be a getaway. But to truly get away from it all, consider heading to one of these remote properties. The long journey is merely an opportunity to dream about what awaits when you arrive.

Apatoa Beach & Garden Village, French Polynesia

Raiatea is considered the cradle of Polynesian culture. It is a sacred, remote island in French Polynesia that is filled with lush vegetation and boasts a turquoise lagoon — a diver's delight. In the southwest corner of Raiatea, tucked amid coconut groves, is the secluded Apatoa Beach & Garden Village. It is a place to return to nature, with bungalows that open up to the water and plants. Some bungalows have private swimming pools, but all have terraces and decks that offer great views and the perfect space to read or nap.

Botánika Osa Peninsula, Costa Rica

Botánika Osa Peninsula sits on a "more rugged slice of Costa Rica," Condé Nast Traveler said, one that is still pristine due to its isolation. The biodiverse region's ecological wonders — the rainforests and beaches of Corcovado National Park, the tropical fjord Golfo Dulce and wildlife like scarlet macaws and squirrel monkeys — draw visitors, and Botánika Osa Peninsula, "discreetly tucked among tangles of greenery," blends in perfectly. Discover the flavors of Costa Rica with a private coffee tasting and cacao ceremony.

Casa Palopó, Guatemala 

The drive from Guatemala City to Casa Palopó takes about four hours, and along the way, "congested streets give way to lush rural vistas," Travel and Leisure said. Once a private home, this colorful boutique hotel is filled with contemporary and Indigenous art and has majestic views of Lake Atitlán and its three surrounding volcanoes. Activities are on the relaxing side, with the hotel offering guests painting and meditation kits and lessons on the art of tortilla-making.

Eremito Hotel, Italy

The name says it all. "Eremito" is Italian for "hermit," and you will feel like one after a few nights here. A former monastery, Eremito is now a "digital-detox" hotel, WWD said, with no internet service or televisions. The property, designed for solo travelers, is 40 minutes from the nearest town and is surrounded by a protected nature reserve. Homemade pasta is served in a cozy stone restaurant, which, like the rest of the hotel, is illuminated by candlelight.

Oil Nut Bay, British Virgin Islands

Getting to Oil Nut Bay on Virgin Gorda is a beautiful adventure. Fly to Tortola, then take a private boat or helicopter to the island resort where villas "cling to hillsides and grace sandy shores," Travel and Leisure said. The 400-acre property sits on a "spectacular" stretch of land, with guests able to enjoy "exquisite dining options" and the "intimate" overwater Sundara Spa.

Somewhere Only We Know Resort, Thailand

There is privacy, and then there is Somewhere Only We Know (SOWK) Resort privacy. This luxe, all-inclusive retreat on Ko Pha Ngan is spread across three secluded beaches, which are surrounded by six other secluded beaches. They take "IYKYK" to heart, with no signs or logos to be found — even the address listed online isn't totally accurate.

Once you finally arrive at the site, there is one more thing left to do: take a five-minute hike to your phenomenal villa (staff will carry your bags). SOWK allows a maximum of six guests at a time and works with each in advance to plan a tailor-made itinerary and immersive excursions.

Xigera Safari Lodge, Botswana

Xigera Safari Lodge is multi-faceted, "as much an art gallery as a top-tier hotel, in one of the wildest, most beautiful parts of Africa," The Telegraph said. Sitting on the western edge of the Moremi Game Reserve in a prime location above floodplains, the lodge offers "unhindered views" of wildlife passing. The animals are viewed from both outside on the deck and in your art-filled suite festooned with original works by contemporary African artists. Daily game drives, stargazing and bush walks are also part of the Xigera experience.

The noctourist is just getting started when other travelers are ending their days. Noctourism, or nocturnal tourism, is about enjoying experiences after dark, when temperatures are cooler, crowds thin and new opportunities arise. Moonlight moments can include traditional options, like viewing the northern lights, or a more adventurous move — think after-hours African safaris and truffle hunting in Italy.

Stargaze in Chile's Atacama Desert

Its high altitude, low humidity, little light pollution and frequent cloudless nights make the Atacama Desert a prime destination for stargazers. Conditions are especially clear here from June to August, and guests staying at Nayara Alto Atacama can see the Milky Way shine from their private terraces or the property's open-air observatory. There, an astronomy guide is on hand to identify constellations and discuss local Indigenous group's beliefs about the solar system. Nayara Alto Atacama blends "seamlessly" with its "otherworldly" surroundings, the Michelin Guide said, making it "one of the most visually striking hotels on the planet."

Watch the fireflies in Okinawa, Japan

When the sun goes down, the magic begins in Okinawa. Half of Japan's 50 firefly species can be found here, and the Halekulani Okinawa offers guests a chance to see them with its Discover the Island's Glow adventure. At sunset, a naturist guides participants through Yambaru National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and into a mangrove forest. From there, the group emerges in a clearing to "witness thousands of fireflies lighting up the night sky," Forbes said. The night ends with the guide playing soothing songs on a sanshin, a three-stringed instrument that originated in Okinawa.

Hunt for truffles in Piedmont, Italy

Truffle hunters in the know always set out at night, as "fungus-sniffing dogs have fewer distractions" and soil aeration makes the delicacy "more fragrant," Vogue said. In Piedmont, where white truffles are the hot commodity, you are allowed to forage in the moonlight, with the best odds of finding the white-hot goods in November and December. Visitors can arrange an after hours excursion through the Italian Truffle Hunting Association.

See the Penguin Parade on Australia's Summerland Beach

You can set your watch on this one. Every evening "like clockwork," hundreds of little penguins waddle their way from the water to "sandy burrows" on Summerland Beach, where they rest for the night, Vogue said.

From a "minimally lit" grandstand, visitors can observe this "adorable ritual" without disturbing the "pint-sized birds" (little penguins are the world's smallest penguin species). Tickets for the parade are required, with proceeds funding penguin conservation efforts.

Explore the Shilin Night Market in Taipei

Taiwanese delicacies await at this "hugely popular" night market, where visitors are treated to a "carnival of street-side snacking, shopping and games," Lonely Planet said. Outside, there are "lanes and lanes full of food stalls," with toys, clothes and games inside a covered market. Come hungry so you can try oyster omelettes, pineapple cakes, stinky tofu and bubble tea before the stalls close at midnight.

Go on a night safari in Zambia

Night safaris have a different feel than their daytime counterparts. After hours, the excursion is about seeing and also "listening, which is a less appreciated part of the safari experience," Stephanie Vermillion, the author of "100 Nights of a Lifetime: The World's Ultimate Adventures After Dark," said to the BBC. Many animals are more active at night, and to "see a leopard stalking around" and "hyena circling a lion, trying to steal its prey" is nothing short of "incredible." Zambia is filled with spaces to see "big cats, elephants and other remarkable creatures," including South Luangwa National Park, Lower Zambezi National Park and Kafue National Park.

In the early 1300s, the Tuscan hilltop city of Siena lived through a great period of prosperity, said Charlotte Higgins in The Guardian. Its economic, military and political strength provided the conditions for a "rapid artistic transformation": its painters abandoned "the distant, hieratic grace" of Byzantine-influenced art and concocted a new style, characterised by "dynamism, drama and emotion".

But, by the 1350s, its "most glorious years" would be "as good as over". The Black Death "halved" the city's population and "stripped away its wilder ambitions". Its chief rival, Florence, emerged as the new superpower, its own art eclipsing Siena's.

This new "blockbuster" at the National Gallery – featuring more than 100 exhibits including paintings, manuscripts and decorative objects – questions the received wisdom that Florence, not Siena, was "the birthplace of the Renaissance", said Joanna Moorhead in The Spectator. And convincingly, too. The show is focused mostly on the work of four artists: Pietro and Ambrogio Lorenzetti; Simone Martini; and, "first and foremost", Duccio di Buoninsegna, a polymath whose "towering legacy would reshape art history".

The lighting here is "dark", the galleries "crypt-like", said Alastair Sooke in The Telegraph. Paintings are "dramatically spot-lit" and juxtaposed with some marvellous examples of Sienese sculpture and textiles. It's the paintings, though, that really thrill. "Exquisite craftsmanship" is a hallmark of Sienese art – gold leaf was used liberally and virtuosically – along with "a newfound interest in the emotional lives of the holy figures being represented". One Duccio painting here dating from 1290-1300 sees "a sweet yet sorrowful Virgin" tilting her head as "a perky Christ Child tugs at her veil and involuntarily caresses her wrist" with his toes. Another "standout", by Duccio's pupil Simone Martini, depicts a "truculent" young Christ "chided by remonstrating parents. Even the son of God, it seems, could get the grumps." This is an "intense and bewitching" show.

The "emotional power" of these paintings comes from their "mastery of space", said Jonathan Jones in The Guardian. While we think of perspective as a 15th-century Florentine invention, these artists were already experimenting with space a century earlier, "to create fairy-tale vistas of walled cities, merchant ships and the soaring interiors of gothic cathedrals". The climax of these innovations is Duccio's "masterpiece", the Maestà – a "massive" altarpiece, whose eight panels have been brought together here. You follow the scenes "like a comic strip", as Jesus "defeats the devil, heals a blind man and raises Lazarus from the dead". "Visual trickery" gives the impression of "gothic arches and a particoloured pavement" receding "with hypnotic reality". It is the highlight of an "epochal exhibition about the moment Western art came alive".

Ready to take your night to the next level? Ascend to one of these seven rooftop bars, where you can enjoy fresh air and exquisite views along with your favorite drink and snacks.

Aer, Mumbai

This "luxurious" rooftop restaurant at the top of the Four Seasons provides an "immaculate view of Mumbai," Travel and Leisure India said. With its white lattice, yellow couches and brass lighting, Aer has a "unique charm," and that extends to its Gimlet Garden menu. Pick your botanical poison: There are cocktails like the aromatic Saunth Bloom, made with dark rum, maracuja, guava, milky oolong, angling ginger and sparkling wine, and mocktails, including A Floral Delight with elderflower, rosemary, thyme, jasmine and non-alcoholic bubbles.

The Court, Rome

The Court offers unmatched views of the Colosseum, giving visitors "front row seats" to the "world's most amazing arena," Afar said. Nestled in a courtyard at the Palazzo Manfredi, the bar overlooks the "archaeological ruins of the Ludus Magnus," where gladiators once trained, and is the "perfect place to wind down in Rome." For a true night to remember, order a drink based on one of the city's classic dishes: the Cacio e Pepe Vesper with Roman Pecorino gin, vodka and mancino secco.

Penthouse Bar + Grill, Bangkok

Bangkok hotels have "upped their rooftop bar game," the Michelin Guide said, and the Park Hyatt proves the statement. Here, you can choose between five bars and restaurants spread across three levels, but to "feel the breeze," head outside to the garden lounge on the 36th floor. This chill space is "ideal for sundowners" who want to take in the views while listening to jazz and imbibing "classic and refreshing cocktails" like mojitos and palomas.

Rooftop 360, Cabo San Lucas

Rooftop 360 is the "tallest terrace in town," the Observer said, "serving up craft cocktails alongside sweeping ocean views." This "trendy bohemian" retreat is the hub of the Corazón Cabo hotel, and guests spend their days hopping between the infinity pool, the bar and the restaurant (try the fresh ceviche or spicy tuna roll). Once the sun sets, the twinkle lights turn on and DJs start spinning.

Sugar High Rooftop Lounge, Palm Springs, California

When Golden Hour hits, the best place to be in Palm Springs is at Sugar High, the rooftop lounge at Azúcar. Look in any direction and you're in for a treat. On one side, the towering San Jacinto Mountains; on the other, vast city views, and down below the La Serena Villas boutique hotel.

Grab a seat in front of the fireplace, order a cocktail (the blood orange margarita is a favorite) and pair it with the patatas brava-stuffed poblano or Brandt beef tenderloin. The kitchen and bar "consistently serve delicious food and drinks" that utilize the "freshest seasonal and local ingredients," SFGate said.

The Vick, Cincinnati, Ohio

Getting from the ground floor up to The Vick is an art-filled adventure, with guests passing colorful murals, handpainted wallpaper, iridescent chandeliers and neon lights before making it up to the open air terrace. This brand new lounge on the seventh floor of Hotel Celare has panoramic views and "boasts a colorful, retro vibe," the Cincinnati Enquirer said. Its menu is split between savory options like beef carpaccio and chilled noodles and sweets, plus fun "sharing is caring" cocktails for parties of two and four.

Vintage Green, New York City

At the tip top of the Shelburne Sonesta Hotel is Vintage Green, a rooftop bar and restaurant with striking views of the Chrysler Building, Empire State Building, East River and One World Trade Center. The "chic" space is filled with plants and other greenery, a lovely "homage to the beauty of New York" and its many parks, Forbes said. Once the temperatures start to drop, Vintage Green does not shutter. Instead, it has a retractable glass atrium for year-round festivities.

Catherine Garcia was a guest of Azúcar

Switch your approach during your next vacation and focus on the journey, not the destination. Taking your time while traveling from Point A to Point B feels like a reset, a reminder that travel is about enjoying new experiences and seeing the world in a different light. On these five slow-travel trips, forget about getting anywhere fast — you will be making memories while riding trains, sailing on boats and gallivanting on horseback.

Bike through Chile's Colchagua Valley

Red wines reign supreme in the Colchagua Valley of Chile, a "beautiful" region and "excellent spot for cyclists to take a leisurely, scenic ride with stops for vino along the way," Travel and Leisure said. It is "famous" for producing bottles of full-bodied carmenère, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, said Forbes, along with "boutique wineries" offering "immersive experiences."

Plan for a few days on the road, either setting out on your own using a rented bike or joining a tour group. The best starting point is Santa Cruz, and from there head to wineries like Santa Cruz Vineyards, an entirely solar-powered estate where visitors can take a cable car to the top of Chamán Hill for stargazing.

Hike the Tour du Mont Blanc through France, Italy and Switzerland

By the numbers, finishing the Tour du Mont Blanc hike is an impressive accomplishment: You travel 105 miles through three countries, ascending and descending more than 32,800 feet, usually in seven to 10 days. Along the way, you will circle Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in the Alps and venture past "sparkling glaciers and Alpine prairies," Lonely Planet said.

Travelers either camp overnight or stop at refuges (mountain huts) reserved in advance. Each refuge has its "own culture and way of working," offering hearty meals and shelter. The most popular time to tackle the tour is in July and August, when the weather is warmer and there are more daylight hours.

Horseback ride around Morocco

Seeing coastal Morocco from the back of a galloping horse is a thrill. On the six-day Pearl of Essaouira itinerary, travelers ride through beaches, dunes and forests, but this is not just about sightseeing. There are also cultural elements, like stopping at a women's collective where argan oil is made, Moroccan dishes served at mealtimes and nights spent in Berber tents.

The tour ends in Essaouira, a port city that boasts a "deep-rooted arts scene" and "legendary surf," National Geographic Traveler UK said. A highlight is the medina filled with galleries, cafés and shops selling "ceramics, ornate wood carvings and jewelry studded with precious stones."

Sail the isles of Indonesia

Gliding by the unspoiled Banda Islands on the Aliikai yacht, hopping on and off to get immersed in the local culture, visit villages and explore white sandy beaches, feels like a dream. This "remote cluster of 10 picturesque islands" has a "palpable and fascinating history," Lonely Planet said, its "multicolored coral gardens offering superlative snorkeling and diving."

The Banda Islands are also known as the Spice Islands, and during the Aliikai's seven-day tour of the region, guests will sample authentic dishes showcasing local flavors. The 135-foot Aliikai is a traditional phinisi-style boat, built by carpenters in South Sulawesi, and has an all Indonesian crew. Passengers have the run of it, and can request everything from massages on the deck to paddleboarding excursions.

Take the Rocky Mountaineer from Denver to Moab

It takes two days for the Rocky Mountaineer to make its way from Denver to Moab, giving travelers ample time to soak up the views of tall canyons, natural archways, rushing rivers and ponderosa pines. The carriages on the Rockies to Red Rocks route are decked out with panoramic roofs, and because the train "only proceeds in daylight," travelers "don't miss any of the ever-changing scenery," The Standard said.

There is an overnight stop in Glenwood Springs, a historic town known for its hot springs, and when the train picks up again the next morning, be prepared for Glenwood Canyon. Carved millions of years ago by the "mighty" Colorado River, this is "one of the most spectacular passes in the country." The Rockies to Red Rocks route runs from April to November.

That Van Gogh has to stay on the gallery wall. But there is a way to bring your favorite art home from a museum. Head to the gift shop and take your time perusing the carefully curated offerings — you will always find products featuring the masterpieces on exhibition, alongside one-of-a-kind works by local artisans. The following items, available in person at the shops or online, provide a tangible reminder of your museum experience.

The Promenade eau du toilette (The Getty Museum, Los Angeles)

The Getty Museum collaborated with Italian perfumery Gandini to create The Promenade, an eau du toilette inspired by Pierre-Auguste Renoir's painting of a couple walking through a garden. This delicate floral fragrance has notes of jasmine, violet, rose, vanilla and patchouli, the 3.4-ounce bottle adorned with a small reproduction of the early Impressionist art. ($40, £32, The Getty Museum)

'Liberty Leading the People' bookend (The Louvre, Paris)

The revolution begins at home, on the bookshelf. The Louvre may be known for housing "The Mona Lisa," but another one of its masterpieces is "Liberty Leading the People" by Eugène Delacroix, the inspiration behind this metal laser-cut bookend. "Liberty Leading the People" commemorates the July Revolution of 1830, with the Liberty figure also being a symbol of France. ($38, £30.50, The Louvre)

Author clock (MoMA, New York City)

Keep tabs on the time while expanding your literary knowledge. Every minute, a new quote from a book pops up on this clock's digital display that quite literally spells out the time. There are thousands of quotes, pulled from six centuries worth of tomes, and the quotes are available in English, Spanish, French and German. ($199, £160, MoMA)

Whale umbrella (National Museum of the American Indian, Washington, D.C.)

This large umbrella brings Maynard Johnny Jr.'s painting of a whale into the streets. A Coast Salish artist, Johnny's two-dimensional designs are bright and bold, and because the sturdy umbrella is seamless, the painting stretches out across the fabric, unbroken. ($68, £54.50, National Museum of the American Indian)

Lidded cup with doucai dragons pattern (The National Palace Museum, Taipei)

Doucai is a painting technique used in Chinese porcelain, dating to the Ming dynasty in the 15th century, and this lidded tea cup is based on designs found in the National Palace Museum's vast collection. Dragons symbolize authority, auspiciousness and prosperity and every sip you take out of this ceramic cup will remind you of the power of these mythical creatures. ($111, £89, National Palace Museum)

Book lamp (Uffizi Gallery, Florence)

Light up your reading nook with this intriguing LED book lamp depicting Sandro Botticelli's "The Birth of Venus." The book emits light from its durable Tyvek paper pages and can open up to 360 degrees. Weighing in at under a pound, the cordless lamp is recharged using a USB cord and fits in any corner. ($71, 57, Uffizi Gallery)

Van Gogh by Franz Collection almond blossom teapot (Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam)

Vincent Van Gogh's "Almond Blossom" oil painting comes alive with this elegant Franz teapot. The white three-dimensional flowers and brown roots pop against the bright blue base and there is even a 3-D bloom on the very top of the lid. Van Gogh's "Almond Blossom" was special to the artist and his family, as he created it in honor of the birth of his namesake nephew. ($338.38, £272, Van Gogh Museum)

Telephone wire bowl (Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, Cape Town)

This bowl, handmade in South Africa from telephone wire, is as bright as it is functional. Use it as a catchall or to hold fruit and vegetables — there are tons of possibilities, and it will look great on any table or counter. The bowls are manufactured by home-based crafters in four South African communities. All of them train together in KwaZulu-Natal province. ($104, £83.50, Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa)

2025 is looking good for travelers ready to check into someplace new. That might mean heading to Rome to see how the Orient Express handles luxury accommodations off the tracks or trekking to Uganda for an unforgettable stay among the gorillas. Whatever the type of hotel experience, you should be able to find it at one of these eight fresh properties.

One&Only Moonlight Basin, Montana

The first One&Only resort in the United States is coming to Montana. The hotel, located on the northwest side of Lone Mountain, will offer "direct gondola access to Big Sky's 5,800 acres of piste, as well as top-tier mountain golf," Elite Traveler said, in addition to kayaking, biking and other outdoor activities. Guests can expect comfortable rooms with fireplaces, floor-to-ceiling windows, leather furnishings and local art, with amenities like a hidden whisky shack in the forest and wellness treatments inspired by the wilds of Montana.

Orient Express La Minerva, Rome

When it opens this spring, Orient Express La Minerva will technically be the newest hotel in Rome, but its roots were planted long ago, in the 17th century. La Minerva, built for a wealthy family in 1620 and turned into an inn 200 years later, is the first hotel under the Orient Express brand. The "meticulously curated" property "highlights Rome's rich history," CNN said, and is steps from the Pantheon. Rooms feature king-size beds and marble bathrooms, and for a treat, book a signature suite with a private terrace, turntable and vinyl record collection.

Portrush Adelphi, Northern Ireland

Renovations are in full swing at Portrush Adelphi, a boutique hotel opening in April next door to the storied Royal Portrush Golf Club. Now part of Marine & Lawn Hotels & Resorts, the seaside property will "cater to golf enthusiasts," the Belfast Telegraph said, with fully revamped guest rooms and common areas. An on-site Italian grill and bar and concierge who will set up tee times round out the hotel's updated offerings.

Salterra, Turks & Caicos

Salterra offers a new way to experience Turks & Caicos. The property, scheduled to open in February, sits on South Caicos, far from the most populous areas of the archipelago. Each room is decorated in muted tones, with wood finishings and large windows to soak up the views. The nearby Salinas salt flats inspired the hotel's design, and an in-house "saltmelier" will be on hand to take guests to the Salinas boardwalk to learn about the island's history of salt production and guide them through a sea salt tasting.

Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Lodge, Uganda

Prepare to be awed when Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Lodge opens in May. Deep in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, this luxe 10-tent property is not only a great base camp for gorilla trekking but is often a stop for gorillas passing through the area. The comfortable accommodations include en-suite bathrooms with a bathtub and shower and private decks, where you can relax after a day of adventure, like taking a game drive through Queen Elizabeth National Park or hiking through the forest to meet members of the Batwa tribe.

Skyridge, Alberta, Canada

Glamp your way through all four seasons inside one of the micro-cabins at Skyridge, opening in January. This year-round, adults-only resort in the town of Canmore has two types of accommodations: the Sky Box and SkyGlass, an innovative structure with floor to ceiling windows for unobstructed views of the stunning Canadian Rockies. At 302 square feet, the cabins are designed for two guests and have everything necessary for "roughing it" in style, including a plush king-size bed, bathroom, kitchen with stovetop and microwave, and heating and air conditioning to keep glampers warm during the winter and cool during the summer.

The Sundays, Hamilton Island, Australia

The Sundays, opening in April, embraces its prime position in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef. The hotel's 59 rooms have been "conscientiously designed," Vogue Australia said, and the "calming combination of ocean and sand tones" act as an "extension of the beach surroundings." An oceanfront swimming pool and water's-edge restaurant and bar add to the "laidback lavishness" of the property.

Veranó San Juan, Puerto Rico

A 1950s office building in San Juan's vibrant Santurce neighborhood is getting a second act as Veranó, a stylish boutique hotel. Set to open its doors in April, Veranó will have 40 sleek rooms and suites, the City House restaurant and a rooftop bar perfect for grabbing a drink to enjoy at sunset. The property sits on the Avenida Ponce de León, amid shops, restaurants and art galleries and close to several beaches.

Nestled at the foot of the Julian Alps, Gorizia is one of those "rare hidden gems that is simply not on the radar of most tourists, or even most Italians", said John Brunton in The Guardian. At the end of the Second World War, the town was "unceremoniously split" between post-Mussolini Italy and communist Yugoslavia, with a "brutal metal barrier" separating the two halves.

Now, those two halves, Gorizia in Italy and Nova Gorica – the "idealistic" new town established on the other side of the border in 1947, in what is now Slovenia – are set to become the "first-ever single European capital of culture to combine cities in two countries".

While the towns have garnered "little attention" over the years, "all that is set to change". Starting in February, an "ambitious" calendar of 600 cultural events will kick off in both towns, spanning everything from art exhibits and film viewings to live shows and music performances.

While both towns are "cut from the same cloth", there's a stark contrast between them, said Noah Charney on BBC Culture. Gorizia is "old-worldly, cobblestoned and lined with lively cafes", while Nova Gorica is a Modernist town with a "relative newness" and "concrete architecture laid out in lines". It may seem "unglamorous" at first but look carefully and you'll soon discover "hidden gardens, crumbling palaces and tucked-away Social Realist frescoes".

There isn't any checkpoint or barrier between the two towns, so you won't realise when you cross between them. But the border is officially marked at the Piazza Transalpina (Transalpine Square) in front of the main train station where "tourists line up" to have their picture taken standing half in Slovenia, half in Italy. The square has been "transformed" into a cultural, performance and museum space that includes "an underground art gallery and amphitheatre-like step seating that rise up like wings on either side of the border point".

In Gorizia, the "sunny terrace" at the Mama Angela bar is an ideal setting to sip orange wine and marvel at the "glorious baroque church" and "romantic pastel palaces" in the Piazza della Vittoria, said Brunton in The Guardian. After stopping for a tipple, consider renting a bike and cycling to Smart Space – a "cutting-edge" multimedia museum that provides a comprehensive introduction to Gorizia's "complex history", complete with "startling virtual-reality experiences". It's also worth visiting the "light-hearted" Italian smuggling museum at the border, which has a "fun" Escape Room.

Restaurants in Gorizia are "reasonably priced, refreshingly informal and full of friendly locals", said William Cook in The Telegraph. Expect "hearty, meaty" dishes, "served with Italianate finesse". Ristorante Rosenbar and Trattoria Alla Luna are safe bets, but "even if you take pot luck you can't go too far wrong". And for a "great value" hotel, consider checking into the Grand Hotel Entourage: the rococo building is "very grand indeed" but has a "warm and homely" atmosphere, with "pleasantly old-fashioned" interiors.

What makes the region really stand out is the "rugged, hilly countryside" on both sides of the border. It's hard to believe the peaceful "patchwork quilt of farms and fields" was once "one of the bloodiest battlefields of the First World War". Today, the vineyards here produce "some of the finest wines in Italy, especially the subtle local white wine, Collio".

Over in Nova Gorica, "the population is young" and there's a "big student community", said Burton in The Guardian. Italians cross into the Slovenian town for a "taste of the great outdoors", kayaking on the "fast-flowing" Soca River, and exploring the "maze of bike tracks and walking paths" in the nearby forests.

Be sure to visit the Nova Gorica Arts Centre, which local musician and cultural ambassador Tijana Boric tells BBC Culture is the "heartbeat" of the town's "vibrant arts scene". The centre "champions" up-and-coming Slovenian artists, and hosts regular exhibits and performances. And to "soak up the city's edgy music scene", head to Mostovna – a "punky" industrial space where you can "catch anything from rock, soul and orchestral music to comedy and art exhibitions".

For "elevated cuisine", consider booking a table at the Michelin-starred Dam restaurant which offers a "modern take on Slovenian cuisine" in a "moody, seductive" setting. Or, for something a bit more laid back, Boric advises paying a visit to Fabrika to sample the gastropub's "extensive" menu and craft beers.

Before you leave, head to Kostanjevika, said Charney on BBC Culture. The 16th-century hilltop Franciscan monastery is surrounded by "scent-heady Bourbon roses and gnarled chestnut trees", and has been "lovingly restored" since it was almost entirely destroyed during the First World War. It's the "perfect place" to soak up the sweeping views across both towns.

No longer confined to the "bougie delicatessen", panettone can be found in almost any supermarket at this time of year, cementing its status as a "British festive staple", said The Guardian. Demand for the Italian sweet bread is soaring, with sales at Waitrose climbing 65% year-on-year, following a 40% rise in 2022.

Making panettone is a time-consuming process. The "sourdough-like dough" is left for several days to prove and hung upside down after baking to give it its "distinctive dome shape" and airy texture.

One of the many stories told about the origins of panettone is that it resulted from a "kitchen mishap" at the Duke of Milan's court during the preparation of a lavish feast, said Forbes. When a "humble kitchen hand" named Toni burnt the Christmas dessert, he "whipped up a last-minute bread with leftover ingredients" – and the "pan del Toni" was born.

Traditionally, the dessert is studded with candied orange peel and currants. The dough should be "an intense yellow colour" with a "soft, bouncy consistency", Deborah Parietti, founder of Feast Italy, told Good Housekeeping. And the crust should be "as soft as the middle, without any bitterness". Crucially, "a good panettone should be moist but not greasy", and all of the ingredients should work in harmony without overpowering one another.

While most supermarkets sell the festive sweet bread for around the £10 mark, it seems there is an appetite for "more expensive options", said The Guardian. Dolce & Gabbana has released an extensive range of panettones in "decorative tins", while Fortnum & Mason hit the headlines last week when it launched a 1kg panettone that claims to feed up to 100 people, with an eye-watering £395 price tag.

High street retailers are "stretching themselves" to try out a wider range of flavour combinations than ever before, with Waitrose's "limoncello fizz" panettone among the more novel options to hit the shelves this year. With so much choice, we've whittled down the best of the lot.

Morrisons The Best Classic Fruit Panettone

Crafted at a family run bakery in Piedmont, this classic fruit panettone has a "golden, shiny exterior that wafts delicious, buttery flavours", said Hannah Evans in The Times. "And the taste? Even better. Well done Morrisons."

£8.50, morrisons.com

Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Chocolate & Hazelnut Panettone

"Well risen" with a "domed top", dark chocolate chips and "plenty of whole nuts", this is an excellent option, said Andrew Baker in The Telegraph. It feels heavy but "cuts easily" to reveal a fluffy texture with "well-integrated chocolate".

£10.50, sainsburys.co.uk

Waitrose Christmas Limoncello Fizz Panettone

Dotted with "oozy pockets of creamy lemon curd" and soaked in "sparkling wine syrup", Waitrose's unusual panettone is a triumph, said Stacey Smith at Good Housekeeping. The "DIY element" with the star stencil and packet of fizzy sherbet lemon sugar are perfect for adding a "final flourish" before serving.

£12, waitrose.com

M&S Nocciolato Panettone

Studded with sultanas and Calabrian orange peel and topped with a ground hazelnut crust, this "nice and tall pud" has a "boozy" flavour and "decent distribution of fruit", said Evans in The Times. The "ornate" tin is a welcome touch, too.

£20, marksandspencer.com

Breramilano 1930 Traditional Panettone

Packaged in a traditional blue-and-white striped box, this is ideal as a "luxury" gift, said Ellie Davis in London's The Standard. Hours of proving have ensured the dough is "sweet and buttery", and the plump juicy raisins are surrounded by "generous shreds of zesty candied orange".

£55, fenwick.co.uk

Italy recorded a grim new milestone this week as it was confirmed that a 21-year-old man has become the 85th inmate to take their own life this year, surpassing the previous record of 84 deaths by suicide in 2022.

The unidentified young man was also the fourth inmate this year to die by suicide at Marassi prison, near Genoa, according to Gennarino De Fazio, general secretary of the prison officers' union. The previous death by suicide had happened less than a month before.

In a press statement, De Fazio said overcrowding and understaffing in Italian prisons had made life "almost impossible for both inmates and staff". Seven prison officers have also taken their lives this year. "The overall situation in the prisons has been out of control for some time and, unfortunately, it's getting worse every day," he said.

Breaking point

According to the latest figures from the justice ministry, Italian prisons currently house 62,427 inmates, more than 10,000 over official maximum capacity. Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni's "tough on crime" government has lengthened custodial sentences and introduced more than 20 new ones, but the problem is also exacerbated by Italy's notoriously slow judicial system. Around 15% of those in detention have yet to go on trial, while another 10% are awaiting the outcome of an appeal.

Regina Coeli prison in Rome offers a "teeming microcosm" of the wider issues plaguing Italy's carceral system, said Agence France-Presse (AFP). A former convent dating back to the 17th century, it is one of many historic prisons in desperate need of modernisation just to guarantee basic amenities like electricity and hot water. Speaking to a regional health board last month, Regina Coeli's governor, Claudia Clementi, said overcrowding meant the dilapidated facility was operating on a knife-edge. "If 1,150 people take a shower instead of 700 to 800, the heating system may not work anymore," she said. A guard employed at the facility told AFP conditions inside were "indescribable".

Awash with violence

Crumbling prisons crammed with more inmates than they can handle have, unsurprisingly, boiled over into violence. In August, detainees at a young offenders' institution in Turin trashed cells, set fires and assaulted guards in rioting motivated in part by overcrowding, Italian news site Il Post said. "The maximum capacity in the prison is 42 people," read a caption on footage shared to TikTok by an inmate. "There are 60 of us."

Prisoners are also all too frequently victims of violence. At a prison in Trapani, in Sicily, 11 officers have been arrested and another 14 suspended after video footage emerged of guards beating inmates in a solitary confinement unit. In Cuneo, in the north-west, 35 prison employees are under investigation for abuse of inmates. One prisoner was allegedly Tasered and beaten unconscious after asking to be moved to a single-man cell to observe Ramadan, state broadcaster Rai reported.

Tip of the iceberg

"For now, the prospects of a turnaround are weak," said Euronews. A "prison decree" passed by the government in August contains some measures designed to alleviate the worst of the crisis, but detractors have said it does not go anywhere near far enough. For instance, the decree provides for the recruitment of 1,000 additional prison officers – well below the 7,000 needed. It also does not address the wider judicial or social reforms that campaigners say are needed to permanently reduce rates of incarceration.

Michele Miravalle of Antigone, an Italian NGO which monitors prison conditions, told Euronews that the government's action so far had been "disappointing". "It's like trying to repair a house that has structural problems and is about to fall," he said. "Instead of intervening on the foundations, you only fixed the windows."

Puglia is an area of Italy often ignored by foreign tourists. Famous neighbours to the north, like Tuscany, Umbria and Campania steal the holiday headlines, while the legendary glamour of Florence, Milan, and Rome draws the crowds. Puglia, though, has plenty to offer its visitors, and the relative few who do choose a sojourn in the stiletto heel of Italy's boot will find year-round sunshine, an intoxicatingly gentle pace of life, and a trove of architectural and cultural treasure which easily rivals the more famous regions to its north.

The city of Lecce, the cultural capital of Puglia, is an ideal base from which to discover the region and, at its centre, Patria Palace is just the kind of understated, elegant hotel to enhance the whole experience.

Why stay here?

Patria Palace is tucked away on a little square opposite one of Lecce's most important landmarks: the Basilica di Santa Croce. The entire city is known for its Baroque architecture – it's often called the "Florence of the South" – and this cathedral is arguably its finest example. Whether in morning sunlight or under evening illumination, the carved stonework around the rose window is breathtaking to behold. The relationship between the hotel and the cathedral is strong: dinners are taken on a rooftop terrace with an unrivalled view of its majestic neighbour and, through the hotel, you can arrange a genuinely moving night-time private tour of the cathedral's artworks.

The fact that Puglia is relatively undiscovered means that many visitors will need a helping hand to get the most out of a trip. Sure, Google can provide a list of the main attractions, but only true local knowledge from the hotel's concierge can point you in the direction of the mother-and-daughter team who give you cooking lessons using the food they helped you choose at the market that morning. The concierge can also arrange a behind-the-scenes tour of Le Costantine, the nearby atelier where garments for Dior are still made by hand on century-old looms. If you're really lucky, you can even get access to the cathedral balcony for a close-up of the stonework and a view of the piazza few people get to experience.

Once all that sightseeing has tired you out, Patria Palace is the ideal place to recover. Rooms are generous in size and tastefully designed, most featuring tall windows and gorgeous parquet or tiled floors. Mine faced onto the Basilica, with a wonderful view each morning as the square below slowly came to life. Some rooms have private terraces – with the Terrace Suite, the hotel's crowning glory, boasting 100 square metres of private outside space, including a pool. Thoughtful touches, such as locally handmade tiles, underline the hotel's connection to the local community and contribute to an atmosphere of warmth and welcome that fills the whole building.

Eating and drinking

In-house restaurant Atenze serves meals in a pristine dining room on the ground floor, with a small terrace for al fresco fans, and dinner service on the rooftop in the warmer months. The cuisine is classic Italian, with few frills and plenty of pride in locality. Until dining here, I had never heard of an olive oil sommelier but it turns out they exist, and the variety of oils and flavour profiles they presented to pair with each course astonished me. All were from the local Salento region, and all were delicious.

Alongside the olive oil was a mixture of Italian classics, perfectly rendered, and some more inventive modern dishes. Raviolo with lemon caviar, and a lemongrass cheesecake with caramelised apples and Calvados sauce (not strictly local but I'm a sucker for Calvados) were personal highlights, but the menu and kitchen expertise are extensive enough to provide for most palettes. The view of the Basilica, illuminated against the dark night sky, makes for a dramatic and romantic backdrop for evenings in the rooftop season.

Breakfast is a typical continental buffet, beautifully presented in the downstairs dining room, and should set you up well for a long day of sightseeing. If you’re in need of an afternoon refreshment or evening aperitivo, Barba's Natural Lounge on the second terrace offers an excellent people-watching vantage point, and the Sira rooftop bar provides another opportunity to revel in the beauty of that Basilica vista.

What to do

Lecce, like many Italian cities, is packed with history and tradition. Strolling around the city centre, marvelling at the architecture and drifting in and out of ancient churches, is a pastime in itself, but there is plenty to discover in wider Puglia as well. In the summer period (June to September), the hotel partners with a beach club on the Adriatic coast, offering a private transfer and access to guests who wish to unwind by the sea. Should you wish to rent your own car and meander through the more rural and coastal areas yourself, the hotel can arrange access to the limited traffic zone in the historic city centre where the hotel is located, and valet parking when you return.

Activities on-site are kept to a minimum: eating, drinking, and relaxing. This is not a resort hotel designed to keep you indoors as much as possible and extract the maximum margin from your presence; instead, it has the feeling of a local residence, set up with the intent of making your life as easy and luxurious as possible while you spend a few days as a true Leccese.

The verdict

It's a shame that Puglia is perhaps not as well visited as its northern counterparts but that may well change quickly. A burgeoning Fashion Week that shines a light on local artisans, an uptick in refined hospitality openings, and a wonderful array of beaches and towns and scenery and cuisine – mostly at a far more attractive price than further north – will soon have savvy travellers choosing the region for their summer dose of Italian dolce vita. You could do a lot worse than select Patria Palace as the beautiful place where you administer yours.

Nick was a guest at Patria Palace. Rooms from €350 per night, on a B&B basis.

Will deals with Tunisia and Kurdistan help Labour? What next for the Wagner Group? And are we any closer to identifying UFOs? Olly Mann and The Week delve behind the headlines and debate what really matters from the past seven days.

A podcast for curious, open-minded people, The Week Unwrapped delivers fresh perspectives on politics, culture, technology and business.

It makes for a lively, enlightening discussion, ranging from the serious to the offbeat. Previous topics have included whether solar engineering could refreeze the Arctic, why funerals are going out of fashion, and what kind of art you can use to pay your tax bill.

You can subscribe to The Week Unwrapped wherever you get your podcasts:

• Spotify
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A hotel bar is more than just a place to grab a cocktail. It can be a peerless location for people watching, a place to strike up conversations and even a mini-academy where you can learn about the local culture by ordering the region's signature drink. Not every hotel bar tenders its stools the same; at these seven spots, with their impeccable vibes and thoughtful menus, having a good time is all but guaranteed.

BKK Social Club, Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River

The BKK Social Club routinely tops "best of" lists, and its lively atmosphere is just one reason why. This "sultry and swish" cocktail bar is in Bangkok, yes, but the bar is an ode to the glamour of Buenos Aires and known for "serving up a killer Negroni flight" and "cocktails with South American flavors," Time Out said. Its signature drink is the Evita, a tangy twist on the classic Negroni, and another winner is the bottled piña colada. These premade offerings are a home run, Food & Wine said, and "work to create a unique five-star hotel bar that ditches pretension in favor of approachability."

Blaue Bar, Hotel Sacher Vienna

For a regal time, head to Blaue Bar. The Hotel Sacher is Vienna's "undisputed grand dame," and you can order a slice of the famous Sacher torte in the bar alongside a cup of tea or "something stronger," The Points Guy said. The crystal chandelier-filled lounge is named after its decor — blue velvet couches, lacquered furnishings, rich brocade walls — and buzzes with a mix of hotel guests, "politicians, movie stars and dignitaries," said Travel and Leisure.

The Coral Room, Bloomsbury Hotel, London

The Coral Room comes alive as the sun sets, with merrymakers pouring in for a cocktail (or two) with friends or Champagne before the theater. The bar is "a tonic for the eyes," Secret London said, "with vibrant colors, parquet flooring, a classic marble-topped bar and other refined features," and the bubbly atmosphere fosters conversations between friends and strangers alike. Consider ordering one of the craft cocktails on the special menu developed in partnership with the West End production of "The Devil Wears Prada." Each, like the Cerulean, is served in a gorgeous glass with its own special flair. A lovely — and strong — concoction made of Silent Pool Gin, Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto, vermouth and butterfly pea tea, the Cerulean is topped with a tiny edible pink stiletto.

English Bar, Country Club Lima

When in Lima, you must order a tart, herby pisco sour, and the English Bar is known for its especially tasty version. This classic spot "exudes sophistication and glamour," The Points Guy said, and was once the go-to bar for William Faulkner and Ernest Hemingway. With its dimmed lighting, every conversation feels intimate, and while you might plan on coming in for only one drink, the space might pull you in for the night.

Hassler Bar, Hotel Hassler Roma

Despite being in one of Rome's most iconic properties, the Hassler Bar feels like your own little secret. The lounge is "dark and broody," Virtuoso said, with leather upholstery and wood everywhere, but is anything but stuffy. Because of the intimate setting, there is a sense of camaraderie among guests, who chat easily while sipping Prosecco, martinis and cappuccinos. Since opening in the 1940s, the bar has attracted big names, and rumor has it that Princess Diana once shared with the general manager that the bar's Bellini was her favorite.

The Pinky Ring, Bellagio Las Vegas

The Pinky Ring keeps the drinks flowing and music going all night long. Equal parts old school Vegas and uptown funk — after all, it was designed by Bruno Mars — Pinky Ring delivers "glam and grandiosity," Las Vegas Weekly said. To enter the space, revelers must first walk down a hallway lined with Mars' many Grammys; once inside, the cozy booths or dance floor beckon. Mars is known to show up with his band for surprise performances, but what happens here, stays here — it is a strict no phone zone, and while this "might sound inconvenient or even sacrificial, it's the best thing that's happened to nightlife."

Rock Bar, Ayana Bali

Getting to the stunning Rock Bar at Ayana Bali is part of the fun. It sits 46 feet above the Indian Ocean, and "guests have to ride a cable car down a cliff face" to reach it, Travel and Leisure said. The payoff is worth it. Not only are the water and sunset views spectacular, but the drinks stun, too. From your perch, bop along to the music "echoing from the DJ booth carved into stone," or just enjoy observing the festivities.

Catherine Garcia was a guest of The Bloomsbury Hotel.

'The worst of crypto is yet to come'

Christopher Beam at The Atlantic

Cryptocurrency lobbyists "highlight the most mundane, inoffensive applications of crypto, while condemning the scammers who tarnish the industry's reputation," says Christopher Beam. But the "truth is that the scammers are only getting bolder, finding new creative ways to rip off retail investors." Should the "crypto lobby get its way, the new regulatory regime will clear a path not just for the industry's 'respectable' wing but also for the wildcatters and criminals."

Read more

'Giorgia Meloni knows exactly what she's doing'

Anna Momigliano at The New York Times

Often, the "government of Giorgia Meloni, Italy's right-wing prime minister, does something that sparks an outcry among progressives and some media coverage, but fails to really outrage the wider public," says Anna Momigliano. The "policy stays, Ms. Meloni's ratings remain strong, and Italy inches to the right with little more than a shrug." Maybe Meloni's "own moment of overreach is inevitable. But for now, at least, she seems to know exactly what she's doing."

Read more

'I worked on clean energy reform under both Trump and Biden — we cannot go back'

Tanuj Deora at The Hill

When it "comes to strengthening domestic manufacturing — a top goal for our industry — Trump's current proposal goes no deeper than increasing tariffs on China, an overly simplistic approach," says Tanuj Deora. The "Biden-Harris administration has come through time and time again with vastly more sophisticated approaches to support the clean energy industry." Kamala Harris "would continue to prioritize investments in clean energy as a central part of addressing the climate challenge."

Read more

'Hezbollah murdered Americans. Israel is bringing them to justice.'

Bassem Eid at Newsweek

Hezbollah has "murdered Americans, destabilized Lebanon, and targeted innocent Jewish communities around the world," says Bassem Eid. America should "empower and support Israel to finish the job, comprehensively defeating and demilitarizing Hezbollah and transferring control of Lebanon back to the Lebanese people and the Lebanese Armed Forces." Hezbollah is "bent on war to the death with the West and the murder of Jews. Too many Americans and others have lost their lives to its crimes."

Read more

What happened

Italy's far-right government Wednesday passed one of Europe's most restrictive bans on international surrogacy, making it illegal for Italians to use surrogate mothers abroad or work in foreign fertility clinics that facilitate such pregnancies. Domestic surrogacy has been prohibited under Italian law for two decades.

Who said what

Italy's conservatives have framed the new law as helping protect the "dignity" of mothers, but critics call it a "crackdown by the government on LGBT families, as the law will make it virtually impossible for gay fathers to have children," The New York Times said. Same-sex couples are already banned from adoption. The new law "goes further" than surrogacy bans common in Europe, "classifying surrogacy as a rare universal crime that transcends borders, like terrorism or genocide," The Washington Post said. Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni — "a single mother who never married the father of her daughter — has vowed to amplify 'traditional family' values." Italy's continued criminalization of surrogacy stands against a "backdrop of falling birthrates," Reuters said, "with national statistics institute ISTAT saying in March that births had dropped to a record low in 2023 — the 15th consecutive annual decline."

What next?

Italy's new law, punishable by up to two years in prison and 1 million euros ($1.1 million) in fines, is so far-reaching, it's "unclear if it could withstand legal challenges," the Times said. Any potential prosecution could "trigger constitutional challenges" and "diplomatic tensions," and getting proof from abroad would face high hurdles.

Keir Starmer has come under pressure after saying he was "interested" in learning about Italy's policies on tackling irregular migration during a meeting with his Italian counterpart Giorgia Meloni.

The prime minister was asked on his way to Rome if the UK government was considering following Italy's controversial system for dealing with migrant boat crossings, in which people rescued at sea are sent to Albania to have their asylum claims processed.

"Let's see," Starmer said. "It's in [its] early days. I'm interested in how that works – I think everybody else is."

Italy agreed its five-year deal with Albania last November, when the Balkan country began accommodating asylum seekers who had arrived illegally in Italy. Only people from "countries that Italy deems safe" are processed under the deal, said Sky News. Over the last year, the number of illegal migrants arriving in Italy has fallen from 118,000 to 44,500, said The Telegraph – "a decrease of 62 per cent".

What did the commentators say?

The left has gone from viewing Meloni as a "neo fascist", when former PM Rishi Sunak wanted to work with her, to "a respectable national leader with lots of ideas to offer our own enlightened, grown up government", said Ross Clark in The Spectator.

The difference between sending migrants to Albania and to Rwanda is "academic" to someone "fleeing" for their life, Clark added. He asked also if anyone else could detect "a whiff of hypocrisy" in Labour considering one of these options after ruling out the other. "Apparently a white European country can be trusted to look after migrants sent from the UK but not an African one."

A former member of the home affairs select committee told The Guardian it was "disturbing" that Labour was "seeking to learn lessons from a neo-fascist government", especially after the Southport riots this summer. Liverpool MP Kim Johnson told the paper the government should focus on the "serious failures" in the UK's current system and "strive to implement a just and humane system for asylum seekers and migrants".

Nor is the Albanian plan working as it should, said the Financial Times – it is "already running behind schedule and over budget". In addition, it has been "fiercely criticised" by the Council of Europe, human rights organisations and Italy's opposition politicians for being a "costly piece of theatre" that will fail to deter people from trying to reach Europe.

What next?

Home Secretary Yvette Cooper has "hinted" the UK could be interested in a similar scheme, said Sky. "We've always said we would look at what works," she told Kay Burley, although they were not looking at the Albania scheme "at the moment".

Cooper also rejected claims that the scheme was similar to the former Conservative government's plan to send asylum seekers to Rwanda to have their claims processed. Appearing on "Good Morning Britain", she said the two were "very, very different", the i news site reported, as this was "Italian processing taking place in Albania" and was monitored "to make sure that it meets international standards".

With its staggering peaks, colourful wildflowers and breathtaking lakes, northern Italy's Dolomite mountains have long been a hiker's paradise. But a new crop of hotels is looking to offer a more restorative experience to travellers looking to get in touch with their spiritual side. Engel Ayurpura is a new boutique retreat that has opened up in Nova Levante, a charming village in Italy's South Tyrol region, focusing on Ayurveda, Indian traditional medicine.

Why stay there?

Ayurveda takes a holistic approach to wellness. There are five elements: space (akash), air (vayu), fire (tejas), water (jala) and earth (prithvi). These elements combine to make three doshas – pitta (fire and water), kapha (earth and water) and vata (space and air). Your health is based on your dosha; if any of the elements become out of balance, that's when your body goes haywire.

The hotel offers several Ayurvedic "cures" in the form of specially tailored treatments. On my five-day stay I tried out the Rasayana Fountain of Youth cure, which aims to slow ageing and strengthen the immune system. Guests are offered a pulse diagnosis at the beginning of their stay to work out what health issues they might be grappling with. "Do you think a lot?" is the first question the in-house doctor asks me during mine. With just one touch, he's worked out my main struggle in life as a chronic overthinker.

Massages are an important part of Ayurvedic treatment. I'm prescribed abhyanga, a restorative full-body massage, pada abhyanga, a foot massage, and shiro abhyanga, a head massage. More unusual is kati basti, where a dough made of chick pea flour is moulded into a circle on my skin before warm sesame oil is poured into it. This is prescribed for back pain but can help with any physical ailment – it can even be used over your heart if you're suffering from a recent break-up. Shirodhara is a soothing treatment where warm sesame oil is poured in a steady flow over my forehead.

The most relaxing is churna potali, which is supposed to reduce stiffness, improve blood circulation and help the skin release toxins. Warmed pouches filled with herbs are used to massage me as I lie down – as they dance around my back, it's like being pummelled by a flurry of tiny boxer mitts.

The doctor also arranges for a personal meditation session that is more akin to hypnosis as his gentle voice guides my wayward thoughts.

The hotel

There are only 15 rooms at the adults-only Engel Ayurpura, meaning it never feels crowded. I stay in a Pura room, which is a minimalist combination of white furnishings, birch panelling and brass accents. It's beautifully designed, with a spacious terrace that overlooks a verdant valley dotted with fir trees. The Rosengarten mountain range, which famously glows a fiery red during sunset, looms in the distance.

The hotel has a contemporary look that stands out from the traditional alpine buildings characteristic of Nova Levante and other villages in the area. There's an infinity pool that is surrounded by greenery, a bio sauna, with lower temperatures than the traditional Finnish type, and a lounge with seats that radiate infra-red heat for extra cosiness.

The food

The Ayurvedic cuisine on offer is mainly vegetarian and prepared without salt or sugar, yet somehow manages to be extremely flavourful. There's soy sauce and sesame seeds on the table if you want to add more flavour, but I never needed either. Dishes like roasted turnip with alpine labneh and cream of chick pea soup with lime and olive oil are delicious and surprisingly filling.

Before arrival, guests are asked to stop drinking alcohol and caffeine in preparation for their stay. Bottles of alkaline lemon and ginger water are available although guests are encouraged to drink liquids at least 30 minutes before and after meals, rather than during, to aid digestion.

There's a social table for those keen to chat to others and make friends during their stay, while more introverted diners can wear a badge to signal that they're happy dining alone.

What else you can do

There's plenty to do when you're not being massaged into a calm stupor, especially with a complimentary seven-day local bus pass for every guest. I take a cable car to see the Rosengarten mountains up close, with a breathtaking panoramic view of the valley below. Lake Carezza, famous for its piercing turquoise water and jumble of bright pink wildflowers, is nearby and makes for an extremely picturesque hike. On another day, I visit Bolzano, South Tyrol's charming capital city, and marvel at the candy-coloured buildings.

The verdict

By the end of the five days, my skin is glowing, my hair is the glossiest it's ever been and I've reached sloth-like levels of relaxation. Engel Ayurpura is the perfect mountain retreat to leave all your worries behind – and if your overactive mind won't co-operate, the right treatment will ease those harried thoughts away.

Ann Lee took the Rasayana five-day fountain of youth programme at Engel Ayurpura, from €1,400 per person plus room rate. Double rooms from €230 per person per night. Programmes start with the Approaching Ayurveda two-day programme, from €650 per person plus room rate. For reservations contact +39 0471 614 245 or ayurpura@hotel-engel.com.

SkyAlps flies twice-weekly from London Gatwick to Bolzano, from €184 each way 

Chloe Ayling flew from her home city of London to Milan in 2017 for what she believed was a legitimate photoshoot. On arrival at the studio, the 20-year-old model was kidnapped and drugged by masked men before being bundled into the boot of a car and taken to a remote farmhouse near Turin.

Six days later she was released. But her "terrifying ordeal" was far from over, said Julia Llewellyn Smith in The Times. Despite the mastermind behind her kidnapping being sentenced to 16 years in prison in 2018, the "mud-slinging persists". Instead of being given any sympathy for the trauma she went through, Ayling has been widely "vilified".

Now, her harrowing experience is the subject of a new six-part BBC drama, "Kidnapped: The Chloe Ayling Story", starring Nadia Parkes. Ayling told the broadcaster she wanted the facts to be "laid out" so everyone knows what actually happened. "This should be a lesson for people not to judge victims based on the way they act or react."

'Fed to tigers'

The traumatic events began seven years ago, when Ayling's agent, Phil Green, was contacted by an Italian photographer Andre Lazio (actually the 30-year-old West Midlands-based Polish computer programmer Lukasz Herba), who wanted to book the model for a photoshoot.

Shortly before the shoot, the location was changed from Paris to Milan. But when Ayling walked into the studio on that "fateful" afternoon in July 2017, she "instantly knew something was off", said the London Evening Standard.

Within seconds, a masked man put his hands around her face and mouth. She woke up in a holdall in the back of a car, having been injected with ketamine. Her captors – Lukasz and his brother Michal – drove more than 200 miles to a secluded farmhouse where she was tied to furniture and told a series of elaborate lies.

Lukasz falsely claimed he was part of a Romanian criminal gang called the Black Death and that she would be "sold as a sex slave on the dark web" if she couldn't raise the €300,000 (265,000) ransom fee, said The Independent. When whoever bought her grew tired of her, she would be "fed to tigers".

Ayling gradually realised that Lukasz was "infatuated" with her and agreed to sleep in a bed with him, convincing him that one day she might become his girlfriend: "an act of deception that may well have saved her life".

Back in the UK, Ayling's mum had raised the alarm and East Midlands police began negotiating with her daughter's kidnappers. But six days later Lukasz chose to let Ayling go: after eating breakfast together at a cafe in Milan, she walked through the doors at the British consulate.

A media storm

Despite escaping her captors, Ayling's "nightmare only continued" on her return home, said The Independent. The model was "scrutinised" by the public and "ridiculed" by the press, who became "obsessed" with the argument "peddled" by her kidnappers that her entire ordeal had been nothing more than a publicity stunt to turbocharge her career.

Ayling was asked why she was caught on CCTV holding hands with one of her captors, and why she wore shorts and smiled when giving a statement to reporters outside her home, said The Times. "This wasn't victim behaviour, sniped the internet."

Within months of her return home, Piers Morgan "aggressively interrogated" her on "Good Morning Britain", justifying his "difficult questions" with her decision to cash in on her experience with a book detailing her ordeal. (She later appeared on "Celebrity Big Brother" further fuelling the backlash.)

Even when her kidnappers were given lengthy jail sentences, she didn't feel vindicated. "I wanted to be positive and move on, but it still goes on," said Ayling, who feels there was little acknowledgement of what she went through. "I was never praised for my bravery getting out of the situation. Instead, I always have to defend myself."

Looking back, it's easy to see the "misogyny and classism" in Ayling's treatment, said The Times. She told the paper she was "buoyed" by a supportive message among all the trolling, saying that if she was a "snivelly mousy-haired woman" or a teacher she might have been believed.

'Timely and important'

Ayling hopes she will be "exonerated" by the new BBC drama, said The Times. She was paid in an advisory capacity, and the show goes into "great detail" giving a full account of the Herbas' trial – clearly laying out all of the evidence to "prove the brothers' guilt beyond a reasonable doubt".

The series comes after Michal Herba was quietly released 18 months ago for his part in Ayling's abduction (Lukasz Herba is expected to walk free early next year after his 16-year sentence was reduced on appeal).

Georgia Lester, the series writer who has also worked on "Skins" and "Killing Eve", told the BBC it feels like a "timely and important" drama. "I think the wider story here is about how we treat victims, specifically women." Her hope is that the show will finally "vindicate" Ayling in the "eyes of the people who judged her".

Having got through seven years of people questioning whether she faked her own abduction, Ayling feels stronger than ever. "One of two things can happen to you when you go through something like this," she told The Times. "You can become paranoid and crazy, or you can think, 'Wow, if I can get out of that I can get out of anything'. That's me. Mainly I feel invincible."

"That?" my waitress said, looking over my shoulder to see what dish I was pointing at. "That's fried Tyrolean cheese with polenta, mashed potatoes and mushroom gravy. It goes excellently with a Paulaner."

Half a day prior to this interaction at Chalet Rifugio al Faggio at the northern end of Val Concei, I had been on the shore of Lake Ledro, sipping a local Pinot Grigio and watching extended Italian families congregate to gesticulate wildly and chow down on pizza and pasta. Life at Ledro, one of Trentino's most picturesque bodies of water, had felt quintessentially Italian, and yet within a 10-minute drive I was in some sort of Italo-Bavarian hybrid dimension, eating spätzle with a bottle of German lager as the sun poked through the canopy of a dense alpine forest.

Trentino is a peculiar corner of northern Italy. When lumped together with its northern, even-more-Germanic neighbour South Tyrol to form the region known as Trentino-Alto Adige, the pair collectively boasts the second-highest tourist numbers of any region in the country, after the Veneto. But these numbers are skewed by the world-class ski resorts in the north and the attraction of the northern tip of Lake Garda in the south, whereas in reality this region remains largely undiscovered beyond these two tourist mainstays.

Why visit Trentino  

In between its spectacular Swiss-style mountain peaks are postcard-pretty villages that made me feel I'd stepped onto the set of "The Sound of Music". In fact, the region's Germanic flavour is historic – Trentino joined Italy only at the end of the First World War, having belonged to the Austro-Hungarian empire until the post-war treaty redrew borders. To complicate Trentino's identity crisis, during that war, thousands of Trentino women and children were forcibly displaced to Bohemia (in what is now the Czech Republic) and this influence can still be seen in the presence of goulash on local restaurant menus.

We were on a multi-generational holiday, an idea that sounded bonding in the planning but carried with it some anxiety. With our cohort of five adults and three grandkids under five, we approached the holiday with excitement mixed with trepidation: would there be enough to do to keep everyone entertained? Would the accommodation suit a group ranging in age from one to 71? The answer was a resounding "yes."

Where to stay 

After a drive from Verona airport that skirted the top of Lake Garda and meandered across the stunning shore of Lake Ledro, we reached the village of Enguiso at Residenza al Castello, part of a collection of properties in the Ledro region collectively known as The Lake Project. 

Having intended to use our apartments merely as a jumping-off point from which to explore the Concei Valley in which it sits, we instead found ourselves making ample use of the on-site facilities, set within this captivating landscape. I'm so accustomed to cypress-studded Tuscan landscapes and the bustling seaside towns of Le Marche that Trentino's dramatic scenery and relative remoteness were a revelation.

The Castello boasted the most Instagrammable view in the vicinity, its lush alpine vistas in all directions dotted by bell towers whose insistent tolls punctuated our dreams. But while it was difficult to drag ourselves away from Castello's picturesque infinity pool and on-site sauna, there were only so many poolside games of 'Fetch Matchbox cars out of the pool filters' we wanted to play, so we packed the kids into our two cars and headed to Lake Ledro.

What to do 

Reputed to be one of Italy's cleanest lakes, Ledro is a gorgeous stretch of emerald water edged by forested slopes. We headed to the lakeside Hotel Ristorante Da Franco e Adriana in the village of Pieve di Ledro, offering the kind of Italian al fresco experience that Brits travel to Italy for. We shepherded the kids onto the terrace, with its fine views and, crucially, a large patch of greenery alongside where they could let off steam after a pizza lunch while the adults watched them over glasses of Pinot Grigio. We blew up rubber rings for a postprandial paddle and played ball games in the shade of mature trees. 

One afternoon we clambered aboard sailboats for a wind-powered jaunt across the lake with the Associazione Vela Lago di Ledro, located on the southern shore. My three-year-old grandson was amused by the adults' panicky efforts to evade the swinging boom every few minutes, and we all loved zigzagging across the lake's glassy waters. 

After a post-nautical ice cream to cool off on a scorching day, we all piled into the cars to hop across the Sarca Valley north of Lake Garda to Agrisalus, in the shadow of Monte Brione. Mainly a farmstay, this little plot of land is a slice of heaven for animal-loving children – they fed rabbits, chickens, pigs and cows and got to know the inner workings of a (predominantly) sustainable dairy farm with the help of owners Lorenzo and Nicole. Then we all headed indoors for a breakfast of delectable butter, cheese, meat and cakes.

On another day – when the toddlers got cranky in the afternoon heat – we headed into the northernmost reaches of the Concei Valley to Fata Gavardina, which online tour guides described as a "wild barefoot walk". This turned out to be one of the most enjoyable experiences of the holiday: a forested walkway composed of different surfaces, from gravel to mulch and back again, ending with a short walk upstream through a rocky brook of glacial water – an insult to my aching feet, though the under-40s found it invigorating. At the walk's conclusion the younger adults waded into the equally freezing Torrente Assat, a fast-flowing river just a few steps away, while I clung on to excited toddlers aiming water pistols at their parents from the bank.

Trentino offers much more than our group was able to cover in a week in which toddler-taming was the top priority. The region is crisscrossed by well-maintained hiking and biking paths, and I envied the other guests at the Castello heading off each morning with rucksacks and cycles. Our group appreciated an afternoon's trip to Riva del Garda, a handsome town on Lake Garda's northernmost tip, full of shady lakefront walkways and fountains and gelaterie. All generations enjoyed a trip up the glass-sided Bastione Scenic Lift that whisked us 200m above sea level for a glorious panorama and a wander around the Bastione, a limestone fortress ruin overlooking the town.

In one week, I barely scratched the surface of this hidden corner of Italy. Trentino's hybrid identity and history gives it a standalone culture that even an Italophile like me hadn't experienced before. Its cultural mash-up and soaring "Heidi"-like scenery give Trentino its own unique flavour, providing a beguiling alternative to Tuscany and Umbria.

Vicki was a guest of Lake Project Ledro and Visit Trentino. For more information and to book, visit LakeProject.it. For information on Trentino, see VisitTrentino.it.

It has been nearly 2,000 years since the ancient city of Pompeii was destroyed, but a recent study sheds new light on how the city and its inhabitants may have met their demise. While conventional wisdom says Pompeii was destroyed by the volcanic eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, skeletal remains recently found in the ruins reveal that earthquakes may have also played a significant role. 

The study, published July 17 in the scientific journal Frontiers in Earth Science, concluded that earthquakes at the time of the Vesuvius eruption in 79 A.D. "should be regarded as an additional cause of death in the ancient Pompeii." This adds a new layer of complexity to Pompeii, which remains one of the most well-known natural disasters in history. 

What did the study find?

Scientists "discovered two male skeletons riddled with bone fractures, evidence that during a brief reprieve from the eruption, a strong earthquake tumbled buildings and crushed people in their homes," said The Washington Post. This brings an additional element into the mix in regard to how victims at Pompeii may have died.

It was previously known that the disaster started when Vesuvius "began spewing out gas, ash and rocks in an eruption column that extended 18 miles high, creating a hail of pumice stones that buried the city and collapsed roofs, triggering a first wave of death," said the Post. If anyone lived through this initial event, the "scorching 'pyroclastic flow' — a fast-moving current of ash, gas and rock fragments — killed survivors, likely suffocating them." But while these elements of the eruption have long been known, scientists "had not discovered direct evidence of earthquakes until they found walls that failed in ways inconsistent with volcanic explanations. Then, they found the skeletons." Physical damage to the skeletons "raises the possibility that earthquakes could have added to the hazard, as the ground shaking stressed roofs laden with pumice rocks."

Researchers "have always had an inkling that seismic activity contributed to the city’s destruction," said The New York Times, as even the ancient writer Pliny the Younger, who witnessed the eruption, mentioned earthquakes in his works. But "until now, no evidence had been discovered to support this historical account." The "effects of seismicity have been speculated by past scholars, but no factual evidence has been reported before our study," Domenico Sparice, a volcanologist at Naples' Vesuvius Observatory and co-author of the study, said to the Times.  

What does this discovery mean?

This study was the "first to tackle the complex task of reporting on the effects of co-occurring earthquakes," the study's authors said in a press release. This is because the "complexities are like a jigsaw puzzle in which all the pieces must fit together to unravel the complete picture," said Sparice. 

In terms of future analysis, this type of insight could prove vital, as "studying such phenomena is challenging due to the possibility of volcanic and seismic effects happening concurrently or in quick succession," said Newsweek. "This could mean that the effects of volcanic phenomena overshadow the impacts of earthquakes or vice versa." It also provides a new window into history; the "insight into the destruction of Pompeii gets us very close to the experience of the people who lived here 2,000 years ago," said Dr. Gabriel Zuchtriegel, the director of the Pompeii Archaeological Park and co-author of the study, said in the press release. It provides a look into the "choices they made as well as the dynamics of the events, which remain a focus of our research, decided over life and death in the last hours of the city's existence."