Wine: The volcanic edge
In Italy, “a surprising number of great wines hail from volcanic terroirs,” said Kerin O’Keefe in Wine Enthusiast. Sicily’s Mount Etna might instantly pop to mind, but the mainland also has volcanic soil in areas from the Veneto to Campania, and those regions produce some of the country’s “most exciting and intriguing wines.”
2011 Tenute Sella Bramaterra ($32). The volcanic soil of Bramaterra elevates this nebbiolo blend, which offers flavors of cherry, raspberry, and white pepper.
2015 Prà Staforte Soave Classico ($25). Select slopes in Soave have the volcanic edge, including the source of this crisp, rounded white that evokes pastry dough, peach, and yellow apple.
2016 Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino ($21). This golden medium-bodied Campania wine has scents of Bosc pear, yellow apple, and honey, and an “energizing” mineral tone. ■