Wine: Today’s Chianti
Chiantis are getting more charming almost by the day, said Patrick Comiskey in the Los Angeles Times. Though the popular Italian table wine will always be “somewhat grippy,” vintners are learning to finesse the acid and tannins in sangiovese grapes. Where Chiantis of the past were “all but unpalatable without a mouthful of spaghetti,” classicos like these can proudly stand on their own.
2014 I Fabbri Lamole ($22). “It’s rare to find any red wine as direct as this one.” Aged in steel, it has rustic tannins that become more refined with air.
2014 Montebernardi ($24 a liter). An hour after it’s opened, this light Chianti “unfurls like a hibiscus flower,” its herbal edges softened by dusty plum and cherry flavors.
2015 Monteraponi ($30). This silky, “impossibly sexy” wine delivers a delightful range of flavors, including minerals, sour cherries, and cut tobacco leaf.