Wine: Morgon’s wide range
“Good wine is almost never simple,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Morgons, for example, are almost uniformly “insanely easy to drink” yet show the depth you’d expect from a top Beaujolais cru. But even within the cru, soil makeup varies widely, and different winemaking techniques generate more variety still, as these bottles testify.
2016 Jean Paul Brun Domaine des Terres Dorées ($23). Made from grapes grown in sandy granite soil, this Morgon is “delicate yet resonant”—“full of the aromas and flavors of cherries and flowers.”
2016 M. & C. Lapierre ($30). Though rooted in similar soil, this Morgon is “quite a bit richer: bright, fresh, energetic,” with a similar underlying minerality.
2016 Jean Foillard Côte du Py ($35). The Côte du Py is “essentially a hill of schist”; its grapes produce a fuller-bodied wine with “a pronounced licorice flavor” and more bottom.