Wine: Choice Sancerres
“Sancerre has become so popular that it’s easy for producers to coast,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. But in some corners of the Loire Valley, this expression of sauvignon blanc is far from one-dimensional. These examples are delicious and refreshing, with “enticing textures” and “resonant mineral flavors.”
2017 Baron de Ladoucette Sancerre Comte Lafond ($40). Unlike the sound but unexciting wines typically offered by this producer, the Sancerre Comte Lafond is “pure, energetic, and deep,” with lingering citrus, saline, and herbal notes.
2017 Domaine Paul Cherrier ($20). This excellent value is “the epitome of a superb, straightforward Sancerre, resounding with stony mineral and herbal flavors.”
2017 Karine Lauverjat Sancerre Moulin des Vrillères ($20). Though “focused and refreshing,” this wine has a richer texture and fruitier flavors than the Cherrier—maybe owing to clay-rich soil.
Courtesy of the author, Newscom ■