Wine: A Japanese white
Thanks in large part to a pretty, pink-skinned grape, Japan is emerging as “the world’s newest serious wine frontier,” said Elin McCoy in Bloomberg.com. Koshu, a grape well suited to Japan’s humid climate, produces white wines with delicate floral aromas and distinctive flavor notes. Fifteen years ago, koshu was a sweet wine not worthy of wide attention. But Japan’s winemakers have since adopted the techniques of Bordeaux, and today, almost all koshu is dry, though varied in style.
2017 Château Mercian ($27). “Light and citrusy, with hints of green apple,” this wine “has the rich, savory quality of koshu aged on the lees.”
2017 Haramo Koshu Lees Contact ($18). This koshu is “a bit like richer Muscadet with spice and tang.”
2015 Shizen Sparkling Koshu ($50). “Crisp and lemony,” this Champagne-like sparkler “has an almondy richness and salty character.”
Danny Lee, Daniel Krieger/The New York Times/Redux ■