Three eye-catching new hotel restaurants
Florie’s Palm Beach, Fla.
It might surprise you that the “World’s Greatest Restaurant” has a sibling at a hotel in Palm Beach, said Michael Mayo in the South Florida Sun Sentinel. “But oh, what a hotel restaurant it is.” Opened a year ago, Florie’s is the first U.S. venture of Mauro Colagreco, whose Mirazur, on the French Riviera, this summer seized a crown previously held by the likes of El Bulli and Noma. At Florie’s, the Argentine-Italian chef mostly trusts his reputation to others, and they’ve “managed to thrive.” Though the menu is unfocused—“I’d call it ‘pan-global-Continental-haute-hotel’”—every dish is “exquisite.” In an elegant room dressed in powder blues and marble, servers will debone the salt-baked fish of the day tableside, plating it with smoked tomatoes and Meyer lemon sauce. While a couple such flourishes feel overdone, Colagreco works in homey touches such as truffled roast chicken (“classic French comfort food”) and a house bread derived from his grandmother’s recipe. In Florie’s, our local Four Seasons has landed an eatery that merits four stars. 2800 S. Ocean Blvd., (561) 582-2800
Openaire Los Angeles
The Line Hotel in Koreatown has become home to “one of the loveliest rooms I’ve sat in all year,” said Patricia Escárcega in the Los Angeles Times. Like most hotel restaurants, Openaire is expensive, but you’re paying for the setting: a tall, light-filled greenhouse with a jungle of hanging plants overhead and long views of stylish strangers sipping wine at marble tables. Yes, the avocado toast costs $16, but “that avocado toast is a beauty,” and chef Josiah Citrin turns out some expertly calibrated dishes, including a citrusy tuna tartare, whole branzino streamed with ginger, and a “flagrantly lush” sirloin sauced in brown butter and Korean doenjang. The menu also includes big letdowns, such as a rubbery shrimp cocktail and a weird puck of shredded pork that’s billed as “crispy suckling pig.” You can avoid the pitfalls by visiting Openaire during its golden hours. At weekend brunch, the service is “balletic,” the room exuberant, and the cooking more playful. The Korean fried chicken and waffles is “exactly what you want: hot and crisp, a gorgeous blitz of crunch, fat, and salt.” 3515 Wilshire Blvd., (213) 368-3065
Electric Lemon New York City
It’s more than possible to have a magical night at Electric Lemon—“so long as one ignores the wellness nonsense,” said Ryan Sutton in Eater.com. Another addition to the new luxury Hudson Yards development on Manhattan’s waterfront, the restaurant occupies the 24th floor of a glass tower and anchors the first hotel opened by the Equinox fitness chain, whose devotees seem fine with $2,000-a-night room rates. Unlike other Hudson Yards dining spots, though, this one has “one hell of a view.” When it’s too cold for the outdoor tables (even with server-provided blankets), floor-to-ceiling windows frame a panorama of river and other midtown skyscrapers, and you can eat well by avoiding certain bland health-crowd options. Start with roasted oysters or duck dumplings in bone broth before grilled bass in salsa verde or the kitchen’s lamb loin—“a study in the grassy slap of the lean meat.” When you look past the wellness talk and the smattering of preening gym obsessives, Electric Lemon emerges as “one of the most enjoyable places to eat on the far west side.” 33 Hudson Yards, (212) 812-9202 ■