The Okavango to Tsodilo Ultra-Trail run, through the wilderness of Botswana, is billed as a great adventure for visitors who “don’t just want to see” this part of Africa, but to “feel it underfoot”, said Simon Mills in The Times. Organised by the safari company Desert & Delta, and now taking place every April, the 60-mile route links two Unesco World Heritage Sites – the Okavango Delta and the ancient Tsodilo Hills. It takes three days and four nights (spent in lodges and camps), and I found the pace pretty “easygoing” (this isn’t a race), leaving time to take in the surroundings. A support vehicle was quickly on site to rescue me when an elephant came alarmingly close. And we ran alongside local people, which made for a deeper sense of connection with Botswana, as did the chance to see the amazing cave art in Tsodilo.

Ancient and new attractions on Lewis

There’s no more impressive sight on the Isle of Lewis than Calanais, said Helen Ochyra in The Times. This neolithic stone circle is a mighty thing, with menhirs up to 4.8m tall, and though it’s smaller than Stonehenge, it’s rather more atmospheric thanks to its setting – all “emerald and russet moorland, glassy lochs and vast hill-rumpled horizons”. Yet it’s far from the only reason to visit the northernmost island in the Outer Hebrides, which has seen several appealing developments since my last visit a decade ago. Among them are new art galleries, restaurants and “cool” cafés in Harris; a new visitor centre at Calanais, with plenty of things for children to do; and Uig Sands, a restaurant with rooms beside the beach of the same name, which is one of the most magnificent in the world.

Inspiring design in the Arizona desert

Built in a piecemeal, “experimental” fashion from 1937 as his winter home and studio, Taliesin West is one of the architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s masterpieces, said Jonathan Thompson in The Telegraph – an object lesson in the power of design to make us feel “happier” and “more creative”. A low-slung complex set in the desert outside Phoenix, Arizona, it seems to melt into the “rust-coloured” mountains behind it, and its “dramatic” sunlit rooms all feel connected to their natural surroundings. From “ingenious” geometric furniture to acrylic roofs that work as “giant light diffusers”, and “tight” hallways leading into grand open spaces, the “design tricks” Wright used are fascinating. I particularly loved the building’s “prow”, a triangular vantage point that extends over the desert. I left feeling “joyful” and inspired.

This is a dish for one of those days where you blinked somewhere around 9.45am and now find that it’s somehow 8.30pm, said Richard Makin. It requires zero cooking, uses supermarket-stocked ingredients you may already have to hand, and can be on the table in 10 minutes. Crisis averted!

Ingredients (serves 2)

• 190g thin rice noodles
• 40g kale, destemmed and roughly chopped
• 1 tsp toasted sesame oil
• 2 tbsp tahini paste
• 2 tsp gochujang (or substitute with harissa paste)
• 2 tbsp soy sauce (or substitute with tamari sauce)
• 2 tbsp lime juice
• 1 small garlic clove, finely minced
• 1⁄2 tbsp fresh ginger, minced
• 160g cooked edamame beans
• 1⁄2 cucumber, sliced
• 2 spring onions, sliced
• 2 tsp crispy chilli oil
• 1 tsp sesame seeds

Method

• Place the noodles in a large bowl and cover with boiling water. Let them soak for 5-7mins, until tender. Drain and set aside.
• While they soak, put the kale in a separate bowl, drizzle with sesame oil and massage until it softens slightly.
• In a small bowl, mix together the tahini, gochujang, soy sauce, lime juice, garlic and ginger for a creamy dressing.
• Add the noodles to the kale. Pour the dressing over and toss everything together until well coated.
• Divide the noodles between two bowls. Top with the edamame, cucumber, spring onion, chilli oil and sesame seeds. Serve warm or cold.

Taken from “Stress-Free Dinners” by Richard Makin.

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In the 1970s, the Costa Brava was “a bright and breezy British holiday favourite”, a package tour favourite that was often confused with the Costas Blanca and del Sol, said Paul Richardson in Condé Nast Traveller. Yet most of Catalonia’s “Wild Coast” has never conformed to this “manufactured” sun, sea and sangria image. Stretching from Blanes, an hour north of Barcelona, to the French border, it’s a “complex jigsaw” of “craggy headlands” and “jewel-like coves”, much of which is too “rugged” for “wholesale tourist development”. It has a history of attracting “artists, actors and bohemians”. And recently, it has seen another “vibe shift”, with a new wave of stylish restaurants and hotels.

Lloret de Mar, in the south, is “the Benidorm of Catalonia”, with its “great sweep of urban beach”, but the further north you go, the wilder – and less built-up – the coast becomes. There are “pleasant” harbour towns such as Palamós and Palafrugell, and then comes the great Bay of Roses, “like a vision of the Mediterranean in its pristine, pre-touristic state”. Beyond that lie lovely Cadaqués and Portlligat (where Salvador and Gala Dalí converted a fisherman’s house in 1930 “to live out their bonkers lifestyle”), and yet more “perfect” little bays, all with sandy beaches and “cerulean” waters. It’s well worth heading inland, too. This region – the Empordà – is known as “the Spanish Tuscany” for the “luxuriant beauty” of its landscape. Set among its olive groves and cork-oak forests are “somnolent” medieval hamlets, such as pretty Madremanya – and also, of course, the “delightful” city of Girona.

The region is known for its “experimental modern cuisine”, and has 15 Michelin-starred restaurants including El Celler de Can Roca, a “world-beating gastro temple” in Girona. Its owners, the Roca brothers, have also opened an “extraordinary” hotel, Esperit Roca, in a fortress nearby. And there are plenty of other pleasant hotels besides, including Palau Fugit, in Girona, and the “glorious” Hostal de la Gavina, in S’Agaró.

Dorset: Clare Mount, Broadstone

A delightful period house moments from Broadstone Golf Club and set in mature gardens. 6 beds, 4 baths, kitchen/breakfast room, 4 receps, conservatory, garden, garage. £1.35 million; Hardwick Estate Agents.

Cornwall: Portloe, Roseland Peninsula

Superb waterside residence with its own slipway and sea views. 4 beds, 3 baths, kitchen, 2 receps, balcony, sun room, garden, garage. £1.75 million; Lillicrap Chilcott.

Berkshire: Waterside House, Bray

Striking Tudor Revival/Edwardian house in a splendid riverside setting with mooring. 6 beds, 7 baths, kitchen, 5 receps, garden, parking. £3.975 million; Savills.

Devon: Haldonhay, Newton Ferrers

Dating from around 1903, this elegant period house is perched above the estuary, with views over the surrounding landscape. Master suite, 3 further beds, 2 baths, kitchen/ breakfast room, conservatory, 3 receps, study, swimming pool, garden, garage. £1.5 million; Marchand Petit.

Cumbria: Ravenoaks, Watermillock

Magnificent Arts & Crafts/Edwardian property with panoramic views towards Lake Ullswater, Helvellyn and Arthur’s Pike. Set in approx. 11 acres of unspoilt land in a peaceful corner of the Lake District National Park. 6 beds, 4 baths, kitchen/breakfast room, 3 receps, snug, garden, parking. £1.5 million; Fine & Country.

Scottish Borders: Maplehurst, Galashiels

An outstanding B-listed Arts & Crafts/ Edwardian home set within approx. 1.5 acres of mature landscaped gardens. 8 beds, 9 baths, kitchen, 6 receps, garden, garage. OIEO £895,000; Rettie.

The right garment can make you invisible, at least to AI face recognition software. So-called adversarial clothing is specially designed to thwart AI’s ability to identify the wearer. As people become increasingly discontent with AI video surveillance, anti-AI fashion could soon get its time in the spotlight.

Outfitted anonymously

Adversarial clothing uses “special patterns and materials made to confuse AI facial recognition software,” said Inc. This may include “unique patterns that can cause AI to misidentify people as animals or objects” or “infrared reflective gear that blocks faces out entirely on camera, as if a bright light was shining on them.” The trend comes at a time when “unlike traditional CCTV, modern computer vision systems can identify faces, follow individuals across cameras and search footage at scale,” said The Guardian.

Video surveillance using artificial intelligence is “worth over $4 billion in 2026” and is “expected to surpass $10 billion” by 2032, said Inc. Companies such as Ring and Flock Safety have incorporated AI into their products to identify people and objects. The problem with AI video surveillance is that “citizens don’t have the possibility in the physical world to opt out,” Rachele Didero, the founder and CEO of the Italian adversarial clothing brand Cap_able, said to the Mozilla Foundation. “In the digital space we can say yes or no to cookies. In the physical world, we don’t have this option.”

Adversarial clothing “wins on many levels,” Nick Tidball, the co-founder of the clothing brand Vollebak, said to The Guardian. Along with the “practicality of protection, it’s fashionable and fun.” It also “makes a powerful, public statement that many are in agreement with.”

The trend exists in an “interesting area of tension,” Nicole Scheller, the designer and co-founder of the adversarial clothing brand Urban Privacy, said to Euronews. “Surveillance systems are all about capturing identities, while fashion is about expressing identity outwards.” Adversarial fashion can “protect identity and at the same time raise awareness of the issue because it is so eye-catching.”

To AI or not to AI

While adversarial clothing is designed to avoid AI facial recognition, at the rate at which the technology is advancing, no design can completely guarantee that you won’t be detected. “Controlled testing against one object-detection model can’t prove a garment will defeat facial recognition in public,” said Digital Trends. “Lighting and camera position can alter the result, while newer software may learn to ignore patterns that once caused trouble.” Additionally, “if such clothing genuinely proved effective, it could get political very quickly,” Tidball said to The Guardian. “Then this type of clothing could find itself banned.”

While some companies are working on anti-AI clothing, others, including luxury brands, are embracing AI in their design process. It is predicted that the AI fashion market will be worth “$60 billion by 2034, with annual growth rates nearing 40%,” said Vogue. “Brands across the sector are integrating generative tools into both creative and production workflows.” Such tools “offer clear advantages: speed, efficiency and reduced costs.” But they also “sit in direct opposition to the principles that have long underpinned luxury value: time, craftsmanship and human expertise.”

The use of AI by luxury brands could help open the door for more adversarial clothing brands. “New generations are increasingly afraid of AI and concerned for their privacy,” Didero said to The Guardian. “The mainstream is quickly coming up behind them, helped by the fact that bigger companies will see the potential for profit and will push the trend into the popular, public domain, changing the way we dress on a large scale.”

The psychotherapist and author of "Grief Works" picks books that changed how she understands dying and grief. She will be speaking at the inaugural Big Brue festival of ideas in Bruton, Somerset, 19-20 September.

Grief Counselling and Grief Therapy

J. William Worden, 1982

This is a book for therapists, but valuable to anyone. Worden’s four tasks of mourning helped us move away from the rigid idea that grief follows fixed stages. We cannot control the loss, but we can engage with the work of adapting to it. That idea offers agency when life feels helpless.

With the End in Mind

Kathryn Mannix, 2017

Drawing on decades in palliative medicine, Mannix tells stories of ordinary people as they approach death. She writes with such compassion and clarity that the frightening becomes more knowable. It’s a book that helps us prepare for the deaths of those we love and have the conversations we often avoid.

The Grieving Brain

Mary-Frances O’Connor, 2022

A neuroscientist, O’Connor explains that grief is a form of learning. After someone dies, the brain must slowly update its understanding of the world. She helps explain the yearning, confusion and repetition of grief, while offering the deeply reassuring knowledge that adaptation takes time.

Continuing Bonds

Dennis Klass, Phyllis R. Silverman and Steven L. Nickman, 1996

This collection challenges the old belief that we should detach from the person who died – forget and move on. Instead, it shows that the relationship carries on, in a changed form. Death ends a life, but the love never dies.

The Year of Magical Thinking

Joan Didion, 2005

Didion’s account of her husband’s sudden death captures the strange logic of grief with great precision. She shows how the mind knows someone has died while another part still expects them to return. It is fiercely personal, yet almost every bereaved reader will recognise something of themselves within it.

The life of the artist Richard Dadd “makes for quite a story”, said Mark Hudson in The Independent. Dadd (1817-86) was a talented painter who began to display signs of schizophrenia during a tour of the Near East.

Then in 1843, he murdered his father during a “psychotic episode”, believing him to be a devil. He spent the rest of his life incarcerated in Bethlem Hospital (Bedlam) and Broadmoor, where he continued to paint; the bustling fairy scenes he created are some of the “most haunting” images in the history of British art. He was almost forgotten until the 1960s, when his exquisitely precise, visionary works became popular in the hippy era. Dadd has remained a cult figure ever since, but in an era of greater mental health awareness, it feels timely that the Royal Academy (where he trained as a young man) is revisiting his art with unprecedented sensitivity. The first major exhibition devoted to this archetypal “outsider” in more than 50 years, it surveys his entire career and poses the question: how did mental illness affect Dadd’s paintings?

The show encourages us to see Dadd as more than a “mad” artist, said Jonathan Jones in The Guardian. And it’s true that he was already “remarkable” before his incarceration. Fairies – a common subject in the Victorian era – were his “hit theme”: not “Disneyfied fairies”, but the “sinister and destructive” beings seen in Shakespeare. His Puck, for instance, is “personified as a giant baby irradiated by lunar light”, perched on a toadstool. Dadd’s paintings from Bedlam, however, are “brutally different”.

His “masterpiece”, “The Fairy Feller’s Master-Stroke”, painted over nine years from 1855, represents a total break with existing pictorial convention: between tall, magnified strands of grass and vegetation you can make out “a detailed portrayal of fairy society”. The “tiny folk” are not beautiful, but often malformed – as if he were showing us “natural history specimens observed through a microscope”. In the end, “you can’t get away from it. Dadd was an interesting artist before Bedlam but became a great one in it.”

Dadd wasn’t a true outsider artist, said Alastair Sooke in The Daily Telegraph. He was “trained as well as talented”, as the “dull”, conventional opening room shows. Even in the asylum, he remained “in sync with mainstream Victorian art”: there are costumes, Orientalist themes, pre-Raphaelite touches. Yet the “originality of his vision” is never in doubt – Dadd’s art was singular, hallucinatory, and enlivened by an “ironic wit”. Even his conventional travel scenes have strange, surrealist-like touches: “The Artist’s Halt in the Desert” (c.1845) shows the Moon skewered by a lance, “like a marshmallow on a stick”. Dadd gave form to “those shadowy, sometimes bedevilling thoughts that dwell in the hinterland of consciousness” – and this is a weird but “compelling” exhibition.

Royal Academy, London W1. Until 25 October

“You wait 30 years for a Royal Shakespeare Company appearance from Kenneth Branagh and then two turn up at once,” said Claire Allfree in The Telegraph. Having starred as Prospero in “The Tempest” earlier this summer, Branagh is back with an “energetic, charismatic, touching performance” as Lopakhin – the son of a serf who has become a successful businessman – in a new version of “The Cherry Orchard”, adapted by Laura Wade.

‘Broad comedy and pathos’

It’s a “star-studded” production: the cast includes the American film stars Helen Hunt and Bill Pullman. And it looks “beguiling”, said Clive Davis in The Times, with an “elegant set design” that “evokes an outpost of privilege facing extinction”. Unfortunately, the evening veers too wildly between “broad comedy and pathos”, while never quite finding a settled tone – or getting to the heart of the play.

In his final masterpiece – about the owners of a great Russian estate facing up to their financial ruin – Chekhov uses the metaphor of a doomed cherry orchard to “conjure a society on the cusp of seismic change, and a family splintered by inaction and marooned by personal grief”, said Sarah Hemming in the Financial Times.

‘Curious lack of urgency’

The orchard’s significance is conveyed through pretty prints of cherry blossom that contrast with the gnarled branches that clamber up the set; and the performances are heightened, “as if many of the characters are acting in their own personal drama”, aware that disaster is looming, yet unable or unwilling to meet the “demands of the moment”. The production is full of insight, and painfully truthful moments, but it fails to mine the play’s “heartbreaking depth”, and its impact is dulled by a “curious lack of urgency”.

Branagh’s Lopakhin is unusually amenable, said Arifa Akbar in The Guardian. When his class rage erupts, it is “arresting” – but then it melts away. Hunt is surprisingly “featureless” as the landowner Ranyevskaya; Pullman brings “charm and comic charisma” to the part of her brother, but it’s not enough to rescue a tonally soft-edged production that lacks a “magnetic centre to hold you”.

Swan Theatre, Stratford-upon-Avon. Until 29 August

Written and directed by Warrington-born Helen Walsh, “On the Sea” is a “yearningly tender” drama about sex and love set in a small fishing community in north Wales, said David Sexton in The New Statesman. Jack (Barry Ward) is a careworn middle-aged man who has spent his whole life here, working for the family mussel-farming business, and the film opens with a “lovely, rhythmic sequence” – showing the work of gathering and cleaning mussels – which “masterfully” establishes the world he inhabits. Jack is married to his teenage sweetheart Maggie (Liz White), with whom he has a wayward son, and has never acknowledged that he is gay. Then he meets Daniel (Lorne MacFadyen), “a hunky young itinerant deckhand” who “has no such qualms about his sexuality”. Soon, they are going out fishing together, and on the sea, they gradually “find a world of their own”.

Shades of “God’s Own Country” and “Brokeback Mountain” “hover above this thoughtful” tale of forbidden love in a tough community, said Kevin Maher in The Times. You might wonder how long we can keep producing dramas that depend for their tension on a level of “foam-flecked homophobia” more redolent of 1960s Wyoming than the UK in 2026. Still, “gay panic” persists in this village, and “On the Sea” amounts to a carefully observed study of “masculinity under pressure”, as Jack must try to “juggle his multiple fragile identities”. There are some pacing issues, said Alex Davidson in Sight and Sound: too much time is devoted to Jack’s relationships with secondary characters. But the connection between the two men is “sensitively portrayed”, the performances are strong, and the film makes excellent use of its Anglesey locations.

“E. Jean Carroll has had quite a life,” said Alissa Wilkinson in The New York Times. She made her name as a gonzo journalist, writing first-person features for Esquire and Playboy, before becoming an advice columnist at Elle magazine: her long-running “Ask E. Jean” column became so popular that it was turned into a chat show.

Then, in 2019, she made international news headlines when she accused President Trump of having raped her in a department store changing room in the mid-1990s. Trump branded her a liar, insisting she was not his “type”. Carroll sued him for sexual abuse and defamation, leading to two civil court trials, which she won. Trump recently paid her $5.6 million (£4.1 million) in damages over one; he has yet to pay a penny for the other.

In this documentary, Carroll guides viewers through her career, her decision to break her silence about Trump’s abuse, and the “harrowing experience of going up against one of the most powerful men in the world – twice”.

This is a “solid, unshowy” film, said Wendy Ide in The Observer, which contains some extremely powerful moments, including a present-day conversation in which Carroll talks to her best friend about how she felt immediately after the attack, and her decision not to report it. Yet we learn that, back in the 1990s, she advised abused women to “always press charges” – which creates a “jarring dissonance”.

Still, the documentary is sympathetic to its subject, who comes across as unexpectedly “magnetic” – “curious, mischievous and candid”, said Angie Han in The Hollywood Reporter. In the public imagination, Carroll, now 82, has been defined by someone else’s crime; the film paints a broad portrait of “a figure far more interesting than the bad thing that happened to her”.

For more than 50 years, David Thomson has been “watching and writing about movies and hanging out with movie people”, said Ed Potton in The Times. The author of more than 40 books, including the highly influential “The New Biographical Dictionary of Film” (1975), he is “unique in his field”, being “intellectual, opinionated, informed and funny”. Now, at the age of 85, Thomson has written a book “billed as the capstone of his career”. A history of the movies, “from the Lumière brothers to the Coen brothers”, from “Psycho” to “Pretty Woman” to Jean-Luc Godard, it also covers much else besides: “we get detours to John Keats, Gustav Mahler, Werner Heisenberg and Tracey Emin, none of which feels dilettantish”. Thomson also celebrates the “written word”, and suggests that novels are in many ways superior to films. Written in a style that “veers between conspiratorial and donnish”, this book has the “learning of an encyclopaedia, the wisdom of a novel and the zingers of a screwball comedy”.

While he remains as obsessed by film as ever, Thomson is increasingly fearful that “movies may be bad for us”, said Mark Glancy in Literary Review. There is, of course, nothing new about claims that they shorten attention spans and flatten our sense of evil. But Thomson suggests such anxieties have been “given new weight and immediacy by the rise of Donald Trump, with his constant demand for our attention and his indifference to morality”. It’s an argument which seems, alas, a bit of a “rabbit hole”. Fortunately, such “wintry and sombre ponderings” don’t take up too much space, said Peter Bradshaw in The Guardian. For the most part, this book is a “straightforwardly rapturous, rhapsodic celebration of the extraordinary adventure of cinema”, written by an author who, despite his advanced age, is as “eccentric, exasperating and absorbing as ever”.

Get the kids out of the house and keep them entertained this summer with these fun, memorable activities around the UK.

Bat punting, Cambridge

Although bats are associated with Halloween, the best time to see the nocturnal creatures “fluttering around” is actually in the summertime, said The Guardian. One of the “most atmospheric ways” to see bats is on the Bat Safari Punting tour along the River Cam. Catch a trip with a local wildlife guide on a Friday or Saturday evening until the end of September for a chance to hear the “clicks and squeaks” of the pipistrelle and Daubenton’s bats. In late July and August, you might even spot “mothers and pups in tandem flight in the night sky”.

Family tickets from £63 (50% of ticket sales goes to the local Wildlife Trust)

Dolphin watching, Moray Firth, Scotland

For marine life lovers, the Scottish Dolphin Centre in Spey Bay is a great place to spot the “hardy bunch” of bottlenose dolphins who live in the waters north of Inverness, said The Guardian. In the summer months you are more likely to spot them “throwing fish and leaping from the water”. The centre, a former fishing station, is also a “hub of marine learning” offering tours of the old ice house, an interactive exhibition, summer “river rambles” and “nature-themed holiday clubs”.

Entry is free

Winnie the Pooh celebration at Tatton Park, Cheshire

This summer, Tatton Park is celebrating 100 years of the “whimsical world of Pooh and friends”, said The Telegraph. Visitors of all ages will be “charmed” by the garden story trail and the accompanying exhibit. Look for Christopher Robin in the maze before popping into the secondhand bookshop.

Tickets from £12 for children aged four-15; £20 for adults

West Midlands Safari Park, Worcester

If you’re looking to push the boat out with an overnight trip, consider staying in the “stunning” lodges at West Midlands Safari Park, said Stylist. A night here is “unfiltered magic” that “layers nostalgia with science” and “theatre with husbandry”, said The Standard. You can still see rhinos, meerkats, elephants, and more at the park even if you just decide to visit for the day.

Day tickets, £17.40; lodges from £500 per night

World of Beatrix Potter museum, Cumbria

For anyone who read Beatrix Potter’s beautifully illustrated books as a child, or who reads them to their own children or grandchildren now, this museum brings “Peter Rabbit’s world to life”, said The Telegraph. The attraction also offers themed afternoon tea and live shows.

Summer saver tickets from £6.83 for children aged three-16; £11.03 for adults

Crabbing, Cromer, Norfolk

For a “quintessentially British day out” go crabbing at the “gorgeous” Cromer beach in Norfolk, said Stylist. There's no better place to “pull up a chair and sink your bait” than the “home to the world championships of crabbing”. For even more fun try visiting in August to catch the Cromer Carnival that’s “old-school bucket-and-spade fun”, said The Telegraph. It’s a “gloriously traditional seaside” event with a “funfair” atmosphere. The best part? Taking part is free.

If navigating an airport with your partner has caused an argument, an airport divorce may be the right kind of divorce for you. Contrary to the name, an airport divorce is not a divorce or breakup.

Rather, it is when a couple decides to go their separate ways in the airport to tackle preflight activities and tasks before reuniting to fly together. The separation can keep stress to a minimum and allow both people to regulate their emotions before a trip.

See you later

At the airport, “we transmute, werewolf-like, into unrecognizable beings,” journalist Huw Oliver, who coined the term “airport divorce,” said in a column for The Times in 2025. Airport divorces are ideal for people who travel differently. “One traveler wants to browse every shop, while another seeks a quiet seat. One arrives hours early, the other prefers last-minute entry,” said Yahoo. “In that pressure cooker, minor disagreements can quickly spiral out of control.” Instead opting to separate, “couples can avoid friction before it begins, and each party retains control of their airport experience.”

Despite its name, airport divorce is “remarkably domestic,” said Travel Noire. Giving each other “space during the part of a trip that exposes every difference in timing, hunger, anxiety and tolerance for crowds” can make travel more peaceful.

The science supports it. One person’s tension and stress can spread to the people they are with through “interpersonal physiological synchrony,” which can lead to the “coupling of autonomic nervous system signals such as heart rate,” said a review article in Nature Reviews Psychology.

Reassuring a partner also “compounds the problem rather than solving it,” said Forbes. “Calming an anxious partner draws on the same limited pool of attention and patience a person needs for everything else that day, and that pool depletes with use.” Instead, going separate ways, temporarily, allows both people to stabilize their nervous systems before the flight. Both partners “arrive at the gate having actually rested rather than one having spent the wait managing the other’s nerves.”

Carrying the luggage

While there are benefits to an airport divorce, it may not be for everyone. It works best for “experienced travelers who communicate well and understand each other’s habits,” said Travel Noire. It can also “solve practical mismatches when one partner has TSA PreCheck or Global Entry and the other moves at a different pace.” There are many cases, however, in which splitting up is less beneficial.

Ideally, a “successful airport divorce divides responsibility as well as physical space,” said Travel Noire. “Parents managing children, first-time flyers, couples carrying shared medication or documents, and anyone needing mobility support may gain more from staying together.”

Airport divorce, in addition, often “exposes invisible labor when the same person still tracks boarding, carries the passports and sends every location update,” said Travel Noire. Both partners should be capable of keeping track of their belongings and the time independently.

Those skeptical of the arrangement argue that being unable to maneuver an airport with your partner does not bode well for the rest of the relationship. Those in favor emphasize the importance of space in relationships and not strictly while traveling. “People love to consciously uncouple,” whether it is going to bed at different times or taking part in activities separate from your partner, said PureWow. “In that stretch between check-in and takeoff,” said Yahoo, “sometimes a separation is the key to appreciating each other’s company again.”

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Repeat after us: There is no paucity in veganism. Plant-based eating — phenomenally delicious plant-based eating, that is — has long existed in many of the world’s great cuisines. As with any kind of cooking, how a dish tastes is all in how it is cooked. Cook it poorly, with mediocre ingredients, and you get an insipid meal. Prepare it with care, smart technique and sublime ingredients? Welcome to the world of top-tier vegan cooking. These six cookbooks all show you how to achieve that goal, from six different angles.

‘Cool Beans: The Ultimate Guide to Cooking With the World’s Most Versatile Plant-Based Protein, With 125 Recipes’ by Joe Yonan

An adeptness, a fluidity, a knowingness with beans is a godsend when cooking vegan. It is akin to learning a new alphabet, then hurtling toward fluency using that new language’s architecture. With “Cool Beans,” the author, Joe Yonan, convinces you to “handily add beans to your cooking arsenal,” said Eater. Over the course of the book, he “evokes the incredible versatility of the bean,” said Daniel Modlin at The Daily Beast, with recipes like Nigerian Stewed Black Eyed Peas with fried plantains, Tunisian Chickpea Stew that “will change your winter” and Cuban Style Black Beans that will have you gladly not “make any other kind of black beans” again. ($33, Ten Speed Press, Amazon)

‘The Korean Vegan Cookbook: Reflections and Recipes from Omma’s Kitchen’ by Joanne Lee Molinaro

If you pay the slightest attention to food or cooking on social media, you may already know Joanne Lee Molinaro, aka The Korean Vegan. Her lush videos lure and enjoin viewers to try their hand at her style of vegan cooking.

Molinaro, in her debut, namesake book, “masterfully intertwines delicious recipes with intimate moments from her life, sharing how her Asian American identity has been shaped by her family’s cooking,” said Julia Duarte at Bon Appétit. Americans might think of Korean food as meat-centric, but Molinaro learns from a Korean monk that “Korean plant-based eating is not a new idea. Korean temple food, the cuisine prepared by Korean Buddhist monks, has been around for a thousand years, predating Korean BBQ and bibimbap.” Korean vegan food being novel or a bastardization? As if. ($37, Avery, Amazon)

‘Provecho: 100 Vegan Mexican Recipes to Celebrate Culture and Community’ by Edgar Castrejón

Let us begin with aguachile. Bright, supple and plucky, it is a staple seafood treatment in some coastal regions of Mexico. Author Edgar Castrejón, when he decided to no longer consume animal products, realized an apt substitute for fish, shrimp and their kin is young coconut. The same slip and bite, nary an animal employed.

Such is the galvanizing approach that anchors “Provecho,” a book that proclaims the monumental possibility of Mexican veganism. There are jackfruit tacos, cauliflower roasted in the semi-style of carne asada, pozole rojo loaded with mushrooms. These are “quick, relatively straightforward recipes,” said Library Journal, that are a “solid starting point” for people who want to play in a vegan remodel of the Mexican-cooking playground. ($35, Ten Speed Press, Amazon)

‘Superiority Burger Cookbook: The Vegetarian Hamburger Is Now Delicious’ by Brooks Headley

Come for the recipe for the New York City restaurant’s legendary vegetable burger, stay for the monstrously delicious dishes that orbit that burger’s well-deserved fame. What with a battery of ingredients, making the burger is an ordeal of sorts, but the result is a paragon of the genre: “crisp outside and a soft but not-boring inside that’s lightly spiced and spicy, with plenty of vegetables and meat-free umami,” said Josephine Scott at Edible Manhattan.

Not every recipe in the text is vegan, but most are — or can be made so. Dishes like burnt broccoli salad, salt-and-vinegar string beans and BBQ carrots with cashew cream and corn chips are “infinitely craveable, combining textures and flavors in unexpected ways,” said Library Journal. 224 pages of incontrovertible evidence that vegan cooking can electrify. ($30, Norton, Amazon)

‘The Vegan Chinese Kitchen: Recipes and Modern Stories From a Thousand-Year-Old Tradition’ by Hannah Che

Hannah Che discovered that her present-day vegan approach to eating has a centuries-old history in China. The book she created as she pulled the thread from her present to her ancestral past is “as much a cookbook as it is a historical document and educational resource to turn to time and again,” said Dayna Evans at Eater.

There is, of course, a chapter on tofu that shows readers how to treat it like both a hearty stew and an invigorating salad, among endless other treatments including an additional chapter on tofu skin. Bonus: “Many of the dishes are served room temperature or cold — which means that not only are they great for do-ahead entertaining, but also that they’re great for summer picnics and potlucks,” said Leslie Brenner at Cooks Without Borders. ($35, Clarkson Potter, Amazon)

‘Vegetable Kingdom: The Abundant World of Vegan Recipes’ by Bryant Terry

In “Vegetable Kingdom,” Bryant Terry, a food justice advocate and author, skips across the Black and African diaspora, pulling inspiration from boundless sources. Spinach salad with blackened chickpeas, a panko-crusted cauliflower take on the Kenyan chicken and coconut curry called kuku paka, jerk tofu enveloped in collards — this is a book for “anyone who wants to expand their vegan cooking repertoire and make their beans and greens more exciting,” said Bettina Makalintal at Bon Appétit.

For people with children, know this: Terry wrote “Vegetable Kingdom” in part to show kids, including his own, how thrilling vegetables can be. The book is a tool to “provide a few recipes for vegetables — something that’s simple and easy — that might be a way to sneak a vegetable in as an initial contact” for picky kids, he said to The Kitchn. ($30, Ten Speed Press, Amazon)

The school holidays are here, marking the start of the Summer Reading Challenge for four- to 11-year-olds. Kids up and down the country are being encouraged to sign up online or visit their local library to get involved. For every book they read, they’ll be rewarded with stickers and character cards, and if they tick off six titles they can expect a certificate and medal.

Whether your little one has signed up for the challenge, or you’re looking for the perfect present for your niece or nephew, here are some fun, absorbing books to help spark a love of reading.

Dogs and bears by Max Porter, ages 3-6

“KRUMP! POFF! The dogs and the bears are brawling again,” said Imogen Russell Williams in The Guardian. “What will it take to cool off their combat?” Dorotheé de Monfreid’s “vigorous” illustrations combine perfectly with Porter’s “wittily portentous text” in this “highly original” book about squabbling animals.

Who Says Moo? by Axel Scheffler, ages 3-6

The latest board book from Scheffler, illustrator of “The Gruffalo”, will instantly draw in younger children, said Emily Bearn in The Telegraph. Follow Little Calf as she meets different animals on the farm: will she ever learn to say “moo”? Scheffler’s sheep, ducks, pigs and cockerels are “expressive and instantly legible, inviting even the youngest children to point, name and imitate”.

Monsieur Mustard by Charley Rabbit, ages 5-9

When Fabio Fangtooth goes missing from his restaurant, it’s up to the “charming mouse detective”, Monsieur Mustard, to figure out what happened, said Anna Bonet in The i Paper. But he soon gets “tangled in an even bigger mystery”. Bringing together “graphic novel elements with classic detective storytelling”, this beautifully illustrated book is a “witty and inventive” read.

Detective Thingy Majiggy by Cecelia Ahern, ages 7+

The bestselling author of “PS, I Love You” has written her first book for children. It's about “a 10-year-old girl who can hold conversations with inanimate objects”, said Bearn in The Telegraph. When Mia is accused of starting a fire at her school, can a “broken toaster” help to “prove her innocence”? The “chatty, accessible” narration will help Ahern’s book find “wide appeal”.

The Common Criminals’ Club: Death Before Detention by Alison Weatherby, ages 9+

This cosy murder mystery is set in a rural Irish Catholic boarding school. When a dead body is discovered in the kitchen, “Mae and her friends are determined to solve the mystery”, said Russell Williams in The Guardian. “Funny” and “twisty”, with an “irresistible heroine and a fantastically distinctive voice”, Weatherby’s book is perfect for fans of bestselling children's author Robin Stevens.

The Not-So Great Escape by Emma Green, ages 9+

When tragedy strikes, “risk-averse” 12-year-old Hedley finds himself on a road trip adventure with his younger sister Lilly, “troublemaker” Aiden and a “stolen alpaca”, said James Lovegrove in the Financial Times. “Silly” and fun with a “heart-rending twist” at the end, it’s a gripping read.

Look closely and you’ll notice a tiny imperfection inside the freshly refurbished Oliver Messel Suite at The Dorchester, on London’s Park Lane. A hairline crack, less than an inch long, is just perceptible in the corner of a mirrored door leading through to the drawing room. But that isn’t because the five-star hotel has scrimped on the restoration work – far from it.

Dreamt up by master theatre designer, Oliver Messel, in 1953, the breathtaking suite is Grade II listed, which means nothing can ever change. Specialist decorators have spent thousands of hours painstakingly refreshing the paintwork, reupholstering the furnishings, and replacing the silk wall-hangings with fabric that matches the designs from over seven decades earlier.

Tearing out an entire mirror, however, isn’t possible. So you’re left to ponder which of the suite’s famous guests could be responsible for this miniature flaw… could it have been Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton during a fiery outburst? Or did Kate Moss knock against the door during a wild party in the 1990s?

Whoever it was, it’s a charming reminder of how time has stood still here. And really, that’s the suite’s key draw: whether you’re getting ready for the evening in the gilded bathroom or lying in bed staring up at the yellow canopy, you can’t help but feel like a Hollywood star.

Messel’s playful design details

You know you’re staying somewhere exclusive when all of the other rooms on the floor are numbered, but your door is embossed with gold lettering proudly announcing The Oliver Messel Terrace Suite. But the most memorable moment comes as you step inside for the first time and catch a glimpse of the Regency-era inspired reception room with its thick red carpet and floral chairs. Beyond it, the long white corridor beckons and you wonder: how big is this place?

Enormous, it turns out. Exploring our lodgings in amazement (I brought my mum along with me), we discover the corridor leads to a bright, spacious drawing room. Decorated in shades of green, yellow and pink to mimic an English garden, there are gold details at every turn, an imposing marble fireplace and freshly cut roses in a vase on the mahogany dining table.

Everything has been carefully curated by Messel himself, from his own 18th-century-style landscape paintings that decorate the walls to the playful shelf of leatherbound book spines that turn out to be a mirrored cabinet filled with glassware for entertaining. There are subtle modern additions too, including a flatscreen TV hidden beneath one of the paintings.

The drama doesn’t end there. Curved French doors open onto your own private terrace (curated by English designer Luke Edward Hall) that wraps around the suite and looks out over the city’s rooftops. Up on the seventh floor of the hotel, it’s so peaceful and quiet that it’s hard to believe the busy thoroughfare of Park Lane is just below. My favourite detail of the space, dotted with pots of flowers, shrubs and garden furniture, is the reclining green wicker chair topped with yellow cushions: you can imagine Marlene Dietrich lounging in the sun here with a whiskey sour.

Hollywood glamour in spades

A knock on the door turns out to be our butler, Richard. Anywhere else this would be completely surreal but here, in this lavish setting, it almost feels as if you’ve been expecting him.

Charming and fun, he instantly puts us at ease, telling us about the suite’s distinguished guests (Whitney Houston, Diana Ross and Prince, to name a few), sharing fascinating historical titbits, and even helping us to open one of the windows. “Every last detail is exactly the same as it was all those years ago,” he says with a grin, and then he leaves as discreetly as he arrived, telling us his team of butlers is at our disposal any time day or night.

By the time we venture into the bedroom, we’re both at a loss for words. Dreamlike and cosy, almost everything in sight is a warm, golden yellow, from the curtain tassels to the imperial yellow Ottoman silk canopy above the enormous (and very comfortable) king-size bed. Framed costume designs by Messel line the walls, and the skirted dressing table is topped with a vintage perfume atomiser with a puffy spray bulb and, of course, a bowl of yellow roses.

The Hollywood glamour spills into the bathroom next door where you’ll find a bathtub with gold-plated taps in the shape of a stylised dolphin, a green marble shower, and a dizzying infinity mirror. You can feel how much fun Messel had here. His trademark mischievous touches are everywhere: the gold Rococo toilet seat shaped like a giant scallop shell is sure to raise a few eyebrows – which is exactly the point.

London is filled with luxury hotels. But this felt different: spending the night in the Oliver Messel Suite isn’t just about extravagance (which it is – very much so!). This is a rare opportunity to step back in time and escape, just for a few hours, into the whimsical world of a stage designer. There is nothing else quite like it.

Irenie was a guest of The Dorchester; dorchestercollection.com

If you have watched Christopher Nolan's adaptation of “The Odyssey” and feel inspired to embark on an epic journey of your own, consider visiting these stunning locations where key scenes of the movie were filmed. The director and his crew shot in six countries to bring Odysseus’ voyage to life, from the sand dunes of Morocco to the rugged cliffs of Scotland.

Italy

Begin your journey where it started for Odysseus, at his home, Ithaca. Instead of filming on the actual Greek island in the Ionian Sea, Nolan chose to shoot the scenes on Favignana, off the coast of Sicily. Known as the “butterfly island” because of its shape it’s an “easy” ferry ride from Sicily’s Trapani port, said Wanderlust.

The 15th-century “ruined fortress” on the top of the hill “made for the perfect stand-in” for Odysseus’ palace. It had the “most epic landscape” where you could “see the water everywhere you were and the ships [used for filming] could pull up”, said the film’s production designer, Ruth De Jong, for Condé Nast Traveler. However, getting these shots of the water and ships required a 30-minute hike. Despite the “daily challenge”, the crew soon “got into it”. The actual interior for the film’s palace was a set in Los Angeles.

Greece

If you’re reliving a Greek epic, a visit to Greece is, of course, a must. For those feeling brave, visit Nestor’s Cave in the Peloponnese region, which was the filming site for the Cyclops sequence. The crew had to “haul a 60-foot animatronic monster” up to the cave every day because of Nolan’s “aversion” to using green screen, said Wanderlust.

The homecoming of King Agamemnon was filmed in areas outside Messenia and near Athens where the windiness “worked well” with all the flags and the banners in the sequence, De Jong told Condé Nast Traveler. The area gives visitors a holiday that “blends history, mythology, nature and luxury”, with “dramatic beaches” and “ancient palaces”, said Travel and Tour World.

Morocco

Next stop were the “undulating sand dunes” and “mud-brick buildings” of Morocco, said British Vogue. The country brought an “authentically ancient atmosphere” to the film, with the Unesco-listed village of Aït Benhaddou, used as the city of Troy. The group of “earthen buildings surrounded by high walls” has been a “desirable” filming location for many other historical blockbusters including “Gladiator” and “Lawrence of Arabia”.

Scotland

Even though Odysseus “would never have gone to Scotland”, the location “just happened to have the look that we liked”, De Jong told Condé Nast Traveler. The “craggy rocks” and verdant cliffside just outside Cullen in the Highlands, were the perfect place for the witch Circe’s home. And the “atmospheric ruins” of the Findlater Castle, by the Moray Firth, became the backdrop for one of the “most unnerving scenes” of the film when Circe “turns Odysseus’ crew into gluttonous pigs”, said Wanderlust. Visitors can see the site by walking the Moray Coastal Trail. Consider heading west to the sprawling Culbin Forest, too. Although you won’t encounter Laestrygonian giants, you can still enjoy the “wonderful views” and “biodiversity”.

Iceland

This was the one country Nolan knew he wanted to “shoot in from the jump”, said Condé Nast Traveler. The “black sands” and caves of the Hjörleifshöfði mountain were perfect for the “remote” and “otherworldly scene” where Odysseus “journeys to the underworld to consult with the blind Theban prophet, Tiresias”, said British Vogue.

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A good coffee table book can spark infinite conversations, and this is especially true when the focus is on travel. Guests connect over destinations they’ve visited or dream of seeing, sharing memories and tips, and the spectacular photography might also encourage them to pick up a camera and better document their future trips. Stack these books in your living room, and see how they inspire.

‘African Adventures: The Greatest Safari on Earth’ by Aline Coquelle

Let photographer Aline Coquelle show you Africa through her eyes. The book is split into four experiences: seeing Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, the Okavango Delta in Botswana, the Great Migration in Kenya and the silverback mountain gorillas in Rwanda.

“African Adventures” features “epic” wildlife photos of baby elephants learning to walk and protective lionesses with their cubs along with snaps of the “most beautiful” boutique lodges, said Condé Nast Traveler. Coquelle’s “stunning” photography also offers a “deeper exploration” of each area’s “talented contemporary artists, artisans and conservationists.” ($120, Assouline)

‘Destinations of a Lifetime: 225 of the World’s Most Amazing Places’ by National Geographic

“Destinations of a Lifetime” combines the breathtaking photography National Geographic is known for with helpful insider information on how to visit like a local and the histories of each spot. Chapters include “Sea and Shore,” “Mountain Majesty” and “Town & Country,” showcasing different locales and pulling together itineraries that allow you to see as many of these connected places as possible. If you’re stuck on the next country or city you want to visit, flip through “Destinations of a Lifetime,” pick any page and you’ll be booking a plane ticket in no time. ($21, Amazon)

‘Dream Trips of the World’ by Lonely Planet

This comprehensive guide explores 100 spectacular travel opportunities, including witnessing the Northern Lights in Norway, cruising down the Nile River and visiting Bhutan’s monasteries. Each trip featured is accompanied by a detailed itinerary on where to go and what to see, tips on places to eat and how to pack, beautiful photography, and comments from local residents and travel experts on ways to best approach the destination. ($45, Lonely Planet)

‘Gray Malin: Dogs’ by Gray Malin

Welcome to the whimsical world of fine-art photographer Gray Malin and his model pups. Malin took his canine muses on his travels, capturing the dogs as they relaxed poolside at the Beverly Hills Hotel, took a ski lift in Aspen and explored the streets of London. Use this as inspiration for places to go with your own pooch. ($50, Barnes & Noble)

‘Great Maps: The World’s Masterpieces Explored and Explained’ by Jerry Brotton

This collection of 64 highly detailed maps spanning “continents and centuries” is a “pleasure to peruse,” said Reader’s Digest. Historian Jerry Brotton digs deep, explaining why each map was created and who its audience was. The two-page spreads bring the illustrations to life, and anyone who enjoys “maps, data, visualization and history” will spend hours poring over the book. ($21, Amazon)

‘100 Hikes of a Lifetime U.S.A.: The Country’s Ultimate Scenic Trails’ by Stephanie Pearson

When choosing which quests to feature in her book, Stephanie Pearson selected some challenging ones that will test your mettle. She also included “incredible” opportunities that “aren’t necessarily long and difficult,” letting hikers of all abilities “see migrating birds, walk in the footsteps of ancient humans” or learn a “little-known slice of American history,” she told Outside. You’ll find extreme adventures, like the 6,800-mile American Discovery Trail from California to Delaware, alongside day hikes families can accomplish together. ($29, Amazon)

‘Slim Aarons: The Essential Collection’ by Slim Aarons and Shawn Waldron

After spending World War II as a U.S. Army photographer, Slim Aarons vowed to only take photos of “attractive people who were doing attractive things in attractive places.” He stayed true to his word, famously shooting the “playgrounds of Gstaad and Mallorca, Bali and Beverly Hills,” said Vanity Fair. “Slim Aarons: The Essential Collection” features hundreds of his renowned portraits of “socialites and literary lights, royals and moguls, ingenues and artists,” and his focus on “tiny design elements” give “each frame an extra layer of texture, color and nuance.” ($121, Amazon)

‘There and Back: Photographs from the Edge’ by Jimmy Chin

Mountaineer and “Free Solo” director Jimmy Chin doesn’t shy from extremes, and “There and Back” is filled with “jaw-dropping imagery” from his adventures around the globe, said Condé Nast Traveler. The “soaring formations” of the Ennedi Desert in Chad and “frozen expanses” of Antarctica’s Queen Maud Land are some of the “thrilling” natural wonders featured in the book, which is “sure to inspire” the “adventurer in your life.” ($21, Amazon)

‘Treasured Lands: A Photographic Odyssey Through America’s National Parks’ by QT Luong

Every U.S. National Park shines in “Treasured Lands.” More than 600 vivid images show off the beauty of each spot, from the tight Slot Canyons of Zion to the jagged Grand Teton peaks reflected in the Schwabacher Landing pond. Photographer QT Luong took the pictures during all four seasons and in all kinds of weather, and explains in captions how and when each stunning visual was captured. ($90, Amazon)

‘Walk With Me: New York’ by Susan Kaufman

Everyone knows what the Empire State Building and Brooklyn Bridge look like. In “Walk With Me: New York,” photographer Susan Kaufman captures a side of the city that postcards miss, turning her camera toward colorful stoops, charming park corners and quaint storefronts. It’s a fresh look at one of the world’s most photographed places. ($26, Amazon)

If the “gossip in publishing circles” has any merit, novelist Rachel Cusk has turned her eye to Natalie Portman for her latest book, said Leaf Arbuthnot in The Telegraph. The actor isn’t named in “Life of M”. But the similarities between the character “M” and Portman are “so glaring they become hard to ignore” – and the portrayal is far from complimentary.

An unflattering portrait

“Life of M”, which is published next month, is about a film star who allows an unnamed writer to chronicle her life. There are “certainly points of correspondence” between Portman and M in the novel, said John Self in The Times. M “played a ballerina” in a movie and is a “model for a major brand”; Portman starred in “Black Swan” and her face is splashed across billboards as the long-time ambassador for Miss Dior.

Cusk’s character was also a child actor whose first film included sexual scenes that “originally included several scenes in which the child was shown wanting or inviting sexual interaction with the central male character”. Portman’s debut in “Leon” in 1994 saw her mother step in to insist scenes with her daughter and an older co-star were removed from the film.

Cusk has remained “tight-lipped” on the rumours. It’s “handy” to generate a buzz ahead of publication and the novelist has never been shy about putting “whoever she likes into her books”. Her divorce memoir “Aftermath” explored the breakdown of her marriage to her ex-husband in vivid detail, while her “bracingly honest” book about parenting, “A Life’s Work”, was widely criticised for her unflinching portrayal of motherhood. “It has reached the stage, in fact, where an effective modern curse might be ‘May you appear in a Rachel Cusk book’”.

Portman and Cusk both live in Paris, and move in similar circles. The actor is (or was) a fan of Cusk and even interviewed the writer, picking two of her novels to discuss in her Instagram book club. But “no one in her right mind who understood Rachel Cusk’s work would allow her to write about her”, said Valerie Stivers on UnHerd. Cusk excels at “reducing the human to the mathematical product of cold existential forces” – appearing in one of her books is “never going to be flattering”.

“As literary assassinations go, Cusk’s of M is sly and subtle, but it is lethal nonetheless,” said Arbuthnot in The Telegraph. Cusk stresses M is pretty, “humble” and “gracious”, but the “unsettling argument” she carefully builds is that “M is engaged in a constant effort to seem like a believable person”. What is “cruel” about the character is the “impregnable fort of isolation she believes the actress lives within”.

A ‘delicate balancing act’

Cusk is just the latest in a “long line of writers” to cause upset by basing their characters on real people, said Self in The Times. Philip Roth was a “master” at it, first casting a “thinly disguised avatar of his wife”, Claire Bloom, in his 1990 novel “Deception”, before he “twisted the knife”, with another caricature of Bloom, this time as a self-loathing antisemitic Jewish actor in “I Married a Communist”. And Nora Ephron famously wrote about her divorce from the journalist Carl Bernstein in her novel, “Heartburn”, which features a food writer who is seven months pregnant when she discovers her husband’s affair.

Non-writers assume we novelists insert real-life people into our books out of “spite”, said Amanda Craig in The i Paper, but a novel is “what it says on the tin – a work with made-up characters and situations”. My “long-ago ex-boyfriend”, the literary critic David Sexton, thought he had been “unflatteringly depicted” in my novel “A Vicious Circle” and “threatened to sue”. I might use a line of dialogue I’ve heard “uttered by a real-life person” but most writers I know “go through agonies” to make their characters who might “have their roots in reality as remote as possible from the original”.

Creating characters inspired by real people is a “delicate balancing act”, said Marshall Fine on BookTrib. Novelists run the risk of “being accused of writing a roman à clef, in which only the names have been changed to protect the guilty”. The “trick” is to find ways of using real people in creative ways to “inspire characters who are products of your imagination”.

While there is no legal requirement to seek permission from the real person who inspires a work of fiction, the Writers’ Guild of Great Britain advises that it is “good practice” to inform subjects of creative writing projects in advance, to get their “blessing” to reduce the risk of future legal action, and to remove any “identifying information”.

For now, Cusk hasn’t addressed the rumours about “Life of M”, and unless the actor speaks out to “correct the record, the truth will never be known – nor can it really matter”, said Stivers on UnHerd. “If the result of the two women’s friendship is a very strong Cusk book indeed, everyone should be happy – including, if her art-appreciation is real, Natalie Portman.”

“This place literally changed the world,” says guide Zach Ozburn as we tour Sun Studio, standing on the spot where Elvis Presley was discovered, where Johnny Cash recorded “I Walk the Line”, where B. B. King recorded “3 O’Clock Blues”, and where a collection of other globally influential artists made some of their earliest recordings in the 1950s (among them Ike Turner, Roy Orbison, Jerry Lee Lewis and Carl Perkins). “Together, these artists transformed music – in less than 10 years.”

Elvis recorded his first hit single, “That’s All Right (Mama)”, here in 1954, Ozburn tells us. “It was so popular, notorious DJ Dewey Phillips played it on his radio station more than 10 times in one session,” he says. “Elvis was signed to a three-year contract, then sold to RCA Records for $35,000 (£26,000) 17 months later.”

Under the helm of record producer Sam Phillips, this now-legendary studio got itself a name as the “birthplace of rock ’n’ roll”, the first home of Elvis and a pioneer in blues, gospel, country music and beyond.

Today you can see the original microphone many of its artists recorded on, browse memorabilia from its 1950s heyday, and hear the tracks recorded in the building, and it’s genuinely fascinating. But it’s just one of the many sites I discovered during an eye-opening trip to Memphis, Tennessee, “home of the blues”, where history and heritage sit on literally every corner.

The Elvis effect

Elvis moved to Memphis with his family when he was 13, and traces of “the King” are still found across the city. On a visit to Graceland, I explore the mansion he lived in for 20 years after buying it in 1957. It houses a string of eclectic rooms – among them “the den”, decked out in a whimsical jungle theme, and a downstairs bar and lounge area where bright yellow and navy tones shimmer beneath a mirrored ceiling.

Elsewhere, elaborate chandeliers dangle above palatial furnishings, while an adjoining museum showcases many of Elvis’s once-worn costumes – from his renowned gold lamé jacket to the American eagle jumpsuit he wore at his Hawaii concert – alongside his suite of giant cars and motorbikes, not least the famous pink Cadillac.

Beyond Graceland, there are plenty more reminders of Elvis’ legacy. At the historic, diner-style Arcade Restaurant downtown, I tuck into stacked-high pancakes in the booth he reportedly used to sit at (“near the back, so he could come in the back entrance and escape if fans started to go wild,” in the words of my waitress).

On a music-themed circuit of the city with Backbeat Tours, I visit Overton Park Shell, the outdoor amphitheatre where the star had his first big public performance during a concert in 1954. (“His knees were shaking from nervousness and he thought the crowd was booing, when they were actually screaming”, our local musician-guide, Davy Ray Bennett, tells us, as he regales us with humorous tales.)

Later in the tour, we pass the home Elvis and his family lived in before he became famous – a small apartment in a modest block – and the high school Priscilla went to after moving here.

Beale Street blues

It was Beale Street, of course, that gave “the King” much of his inspiration. Running through the heart of downtown Memphis, this is where artists including Louis Armstrong, Muddy Waters and B. B. King performed in late-night bars during the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s, developing the Memphis blues sound that was first pioneered here by musician W. C. Handy.

The street fell into disrepair and was largely abandoned in the late 1960s and 1970s, but it was revived in the 1980s; today, it’s the historic hub of the city and a major tourist hotspot, with neon-lit bars and blues clubs once again lining the strip, live bands playing in almost every venue from the afternoon through to the early hours.

Back in the day, Beale Street wasn’t just a spot for music, though; on a guided history tour of the city’s African American culture with local company A Tour of Possibilities (ATOP), I learn more about the street’s significance in the first half of the 20th century.

“This was known as the country’s main street for African Americans,” says our guide, Devon. “It was a pro-Black street during the era of segregation, where African Americans could enter through the front door, not the back door, with Black-owned shops, clubs, restaurants and businesses forming a vibrant hub.” It was also the home of Ida B. Wells’ anti-segregationist newspaper, Free Speech, housed in a church built for the community.

A complex history

But beyond the more positive stories, Beale Street has a complex history. I learn this is where sanitation workers marched on 28 March 1968, led by Martin Luther King Jr, in the fight for better wages and working conditions. When a group of participants began looting, violence erupted as police attacked with tear gas and shot and killed a 16 year-old amid hundreds of arrests.

King returned to Memphis six days later on 3 April to lead a second, non-violent march, delivering the famous “I’ve Been to the Mountaintop” speech that was to be his last. The following day, he was shot from the balcony of the Lorraine Motel, where he was staying.

The National Civil Rights Museum now stands on the spot where King was assassinated, and traces the history of the civil rights movement – from slavery through to the civil war, abolition and the ensuing Jim Crow laws that enforced segregation in the Southern states.

Its displays provide in-depth context to the music and culture that developed in a cotton-rich city which was at the heart of the slave trade during the mid-1800s – when enslaved people were freely bought and sold on its streets, travelling along the Mississippi River – and it’s a moving, eye-opening portrayal of the country’s struggle for equality which is, in many ways, still ongoing.

But it’s also a reminder of the power of art and music in uniting. “Music kind of transcends everything,” said Ozburn on my tour of Sun Studio, and he wasn’t wrong. Memphis’ music scene broke down racial barriers at a time of extreme division in the wider American South, integrating Black and white artists and audiences in a way that many argue was epitomised by Elvis – who took Beale Street blues for his inspiration – and also by WDIA, the radio station started by white founders for an African American audience (and drawing a mix of both Black and white listeners).

The Stax story

Perhaps nowhere was this unification better showcased, though, than at Stax Records, the storied studio that empowered Black and white artists to write and record together during the 1960s and 1970s.

Established in 1957 by founders Jim Stewart and Estelle Axton in a predominately African American neighbourhood, unity and inclusion were the ethos here; house band Booker T. & the M. G.’s brought together black and white musicians, while songwriting duo Isaac Hayes and David Porter also bridged the racial divide, composing around 200 songs here together (among them Sam & Dave’s iconic “Soul Man”).

While Stax is no longer an active recording studio, it’s now the site of the Stax Museum of American Soul Music – an ode to the label’s history, complete with an exact replica of the original studio and control room where the likes of Otis Redding, Rufus Thomas, Wilson Pickett, Eddie Floyd and Carla Thomas all once recorded. (Redding recorded “Sittin’ on the Dock of the Bay” here just a few days before his sudden death in a plane crash.)

Wandering around, I have Ozburn’s words in my head about how Sun Studio “changed the world”, but it wasn’t only at Sun. Across the city, stars broke down barriers and left their mark. The struggles continued, but musicians found a parallel, underground world that didn’t differentiate, and they gained a global audience in the process.

To visit now is to walk in the footsteps of those who shaped the face of modern music and challenged the status quo on a grassroots level. This is a fascinating, many-layered city that definitely deserves your time, not only to trace the legends of the musical greats, but also to learn how their art intertwined with the battle for civil rights in a complex story that still resonates today.

Where to eat

Beyond the music and civil rights history, Memphis is home to a thriving culinary scene; here are some of our favourite dining spots if you’re heading to the city.

The city is world-renowned for its barbecue – specifically pork, slow-smoked over hickory wood and dry-rubbed with spices or doused in a tangy-sweet, tomato-based sauce. For a casual, unpretentious spot where you queue at the counter to order, head to Central BBQ downtown and try the acclaimed pulled pork sandwich, served with classic sides that range from BBQ beans to mac ’n’ cheese.

Once a 1950s salon where Priscilla Presley used to get her hair done, The Beauty Shop is well worth a visit – expect a quirky, modern-meets-retro vibe where the likes of sugar & spice duck with roasted black grapes, pork & pickled peach with mustard fennel dust, and honeynut pumpkin with salsa macha are served at booths set beneath old-school, Belvedere hooded hair dryers.

Memphis has a generous handful of fine-dining restaurants and among the stand-outs for me was Amelia Gene’s, where I tucked into asparagus panzanella with morel mushroom, a rich, buttery bucatini with salt & pepper sauce, and scallops with grits and bacon. Elsewhere, Michelin-recommended Felicia Suzanne’s was also a standout, offering a high-end twist on Southern classics (from short ribs to fried green tomatoes and shrimp and grits) and scarlet chairs and chequered floors for décor.

Where to stay

Set in the heart of downtown and a 10-minute walk from Beale Street, Arrive Memphis is a vibrant hub with an eclectic design – think exposed brick walls, jazzy black-and-white patterned bathrooms and chic light fixtures. There’s a bakery and bar in the lobby, while live music bar Earnestine & Hazel’s, the spot where Aretha Franklin, B. B. King, Tina Turner and Ray Charles all used to hang out, in classic Memphis style, is a two-minute walk away.

Laura French was a guest of memphistravel.com

From the moment you come through the gates of La Bastide, you know you’re in for a treat. Set in extensive gardens 10 miles south of St-Rémy-de-Provence, this striking old French country house is the location for one of Stirred Travels’ extraordinary culinary adventures – a fantastic luxury holiday where you can master the art of cooking simple, delicious French food with a renowned chef.

On arrival we were greeted with the warmest of welcomes with drinks and canapés – a chilled glass of champagne, homemade parmesan shortbread and tapenade crostini, an amuse-bouche of what was to come – on the charming terrace, under the shade of the huge, ancient plane trees.

We were introduced to our fellow guests, who had come from far and wide – Australia, Hong Kong, Ireland and Britain – a fascinating and eclectic mix of people, all with a shared passion for food; and of course the charismatic chef, Neil Borthwick, of The French House in Soho, who would be sharing his extensive knowledge with us during the week.

To whet our appetites, we were given a bound recipe book of the dishes we would be helping to prepare, plus the itinerary for the week, which struck the perfect balance between hands-on cooking and restorative down time, interspersed with interesting trips to local markets and the best restaurants and artisan producers in the area.

The location

With thick stone walls which keep it cool, the house has 11 en-suite rooms, all air-conditioned, and original stone staircases and fireplaces. There are numerous places to sit and read a book, or compare tasting notes with fellow Stirred travellers.

Outside, you can relax on a sun lounger by the pool, borrow a hat from a basket under the pergola next to it and take a stroll around the lovely gardens, or have a glass of wine in the dappled shade of the wide terrace, which is bordered by a flowerbed filled with spectacular hydrangeas with flowerheads the size of bowling balls.

Patrick Obert, who co-founded Stirred Travel in 2016, seeks out extraordinary European locations for the company’s unique culinary escapes, matching acclaimed chefs with exceptional regional food, in a relaxed house-party atmosphere. Between 12 and 16 weeks a year are hosted in luxury properties in Italy, France, Spain and Portugal, with a selection of notable chefs including Spanish chef and restaurateur José Pizarro, Jeremy Lee from Quo Vadis and Jake Simpson, former head chef of Bocca di Lupo.

The cooking

Our fabulous chef Neil, who is married to the Michelin-starred celebrity chef Angela Hartnett of Murano, was a brilliant teacher, ably assisted by fellow chef Carolyn, creating delicious French food using simple ingredients, cooked well. Despite being a protégé of Gordon Ramsay, Neil is patient, calm and relaxed, and was happy to let us crack on with his recipes, each guest tackling a different part of the menu for one of the following meals, with a little gentle, positive guidance along the way.

There is no pressure; guests can do as much or as little as they want, but Neil’s passion for food is infectious, as is his respect for the ingredients. Time flew by as we chopped and stirred, listening to entertaining anecdotes of his life in busy kitchens with an array of different chefs. Every dish has a history, where he learnt to cook it, the mistakes he made along the way, which all adds to the flavour.

There is a real sense of achievement as you sit down to lunch at the long table outside the kitchen after a morning cooking, and tuck into the most wonderful baked sea bass en papillote with artichoke barigoule, a traditional Provençal recipe cooked in stock, followed by a light but chewy pavlova, which we all had a hand in preparing.

Following a relaxed afternoon by the pool and a siesta, we were invited to sit at the long bar in the open kitchen in the evening and watch, or help, Neil make dinner, a drink in hand courtesy of charming Finn, who looked after all the guests so well. He told us that a fabulous wine we enjoyed with dinner one night was made by a former fireman who learnt viticulture by watching videos on YouTube.

Every meal was delicious, without exception, and despite wolfing down everything from an incredible lobster salad or rabbit with mustard sauce to steak tartare on crostini (which I was dubious about but actually thoroughly enjoyed), thanks to some clever alchemy from Neil, you never felt uncomfortably full.

Like the holiday, the menu was perfectly balanced, with so many wonderful vegetables, beautifully cooked to bring out their full flavour; I discovered that traditional French food needn’t be rich and heavy, it can be clean and light, too.

We also learnt how to make bread, pissaladière – a fabulous caramelised onion tart – chicken liver parfait and gazpacho. Puddings were a real highlight: we made choux pastry for Paris-Brest, brioche, savarin soaked in cassis, and lemon tart. I can’t wait to recreate all the dishes at home for family and friends.

Out and about

It’s not all about the cooking though. The itinerary is carefully planned with excursions to villages such as Eygalières and Ménerbes, local artisan producers and the best eateries, including the famous Le Bistrot du Paradou.

We also went to the bustling market in the pretty town of St-Rémy, which sold an array of goodies from linen clothes and block-printed tablecloths, olive-wood bowls and lavender to fantastic fruit and vegetables, truffles, jewellery and pottery. There was enough time to peruse the vibrant stalls, have a coffee and watch the world go by, before visiting a local goat farm, where we met the cheeky livestock, learned about the family-run business and sampled amazing fresh goat’s cheese.

En route to a lovely lunch at the popular Edú restaurant in St-Rémy, our knowledgeable local guide told us about the legend of the mistral in Provence – the strong winds that follow the rain and are key to agricultural productivity as they prevent mould forming on crops. The mistral is reflected in everything from the landscape (with cypress trees planted as windbreaks) to the architecture (the houses face south with no windows on the wind-facing north side) – and even the art, as depicted in Van Gogh’s swirling clouds and wind-bent trees in works such as “Starry Night”.

The verdict

Several of the guests were solo travellers, and many were return customers. I can see why. Stirred Travel has perfected the recipe for culinary holidays: a decent dollop of cooking, a sprinkling of relaxation, a handful of conviviality, a slice of luxury and a spoonful of charm. Whether you’re a serious foodie, or just keen to brush up on your cooking skills in a relaxed and spoiling environment, with great, like-minded company, Stirred Travel’s culinary breaks will leave you hungry for more.

Xandie Nutting was a guest of Stirred Travel; stirredtravel.com

Politics is the art of human beings solving problems without killing each other. Sometimes those efforts fail, never more memorably than in these classic political thrillers. They run the gamut from true storytelling about presidential corruption and the rescue of American diplomats in Iran to entirely fictional yet still believable stories about predatory drug companies and communist surveillance operations.

‘Foreign Correspondent’ (1940)

Hotshot New York Globe crime reporter John Jones (Joel McCrea) is dispatched by his editor, Mr. Powers (Harry Davenport), to Europe on the precipice of WWII to figure out what is about to envelop the continent in director Alfred Hitchcock’s thriller. There Jones discovers an espionage ring bent on selling out the U.K. and the Netherlands to their adversaries.

While the movie functions superbly as a “bold call to action to stop the looming threat of Nazism in Europe,” it also “boasts some of Hitchcock’s most memorable sequences and technical tricks, making for one set piece after another of formal virtuosity” despite the era’s technical limitations, said Brian Eggert at Deep Focus Review. (HBO Max)

‘The Conversation’ (1974)

Arriving the same year that a wiretapping scandal brought down the administration of President Richard Nixon, director Francis Ford Coppola’s quietly devastating thriller follows Harry N. Caul (Gene Hackman), a surveillance wizard hired to record a conversation between Ann (Cindy Williams) and Mark (Frederic Forrest) at the behest of the shadowy Director (Robert Duvall). Harry’s growing suspicion that the young couple is in danger fuels a twisty narrative that keeps both him and the audience guessing and appraising their relationship with technology. A film that is more than just a “product of its Watergate-era anxieties,” Coppola’s haunting masterpiece is a “chillingly prescient and masterfully crafted character study with themes that echo louder than ever in our hyper-surveilled world,” said Andy Punter at InSession Film. (Prime Video)

‘All the President’s Men’ (1976)

While it may seem quaint by today’s standards, the Watergate scandal consumed American politics for more than a year, ended Richard Nixon’s presidency and permanently decreased the public’s level of trust in the government. Director Alan J. Pakula’s film recreates the sleuthing of Washington Post reporters Bob Woodward (Robert Redford) and Carl Bernstein (Dustin Hoffman) that blew the conspiracy wide open.

“All the President’s Men” mesmerizes by faithfully depicting the banal proceduralism of good journalism. A film that “intentionally underplays the enormity of the central conspiracy and eludes any histrionic moralizing,” this “subversive detective story” brilliantly “rejects mythologizing the pivotal history behind it,” said Wes Greene at Slant Magazine. (Prime Video)

‘The Official Story’ (1985)

Alicia (Norma Aleandro) and Roberto (Héctor Alterio) are middle-class Argentines with connections in government and business and an adopted daughter, Gaby (Analia Castro), that they adore. But Alicia soon begins to suspect that her daughter is one of the children grotesquely stolen from the desaparecidos, dissidents disappeared by the country’s authoritarian junta, and that her husband might be in on the repugnant scheme.

Director Luis Puenzo has made a “must-see film that, in light of the real events, paints a haunting picture of the cruelty humans inflict on one another” and also delicately “honors the memory of those affected by the tragedy that unfolded in Argentina,” said Matthew Jones at Philosophy in Film. (Tubi)

‘The Constant Gardener’ (2005)

“The Constant Gardener” is the first great paranoid thriller of the 21st century. When his wife, Tessa (Rachel Weisz), dies mysteriously, British diplomat Justin Quayle (Ralph Fiennes) gradually discovers layers about who she really was, first suspecting her of being unfaithful and then unraveling a conspiracy to test a new drug on unwitting African patients. Helmed by the great Brazilian director Fernando Meirelles (“City of God”), it is a “brainy thriller” whose “visuals create an overwhelming sense of the world gone mad, the world falling down around the hero just as he's beginning to understand the way it works,” said Tim Brayton at Alternate Ending. (Prime Video)

‘The Lives of Others’ (2006)

At once both chilling and moving, director Florian Henckel von Donnersmarck has created what may stand as the most enduring indictment of the 20th century authoritarian surveillance state. Set in East Germany near the end of its communist regime, it is about Stasi officer Gerd Wiesler (Ulrich Muhe), who begins surveilling a prominent playwright, Georg Dreyman (Sebastian Koch), and his mistress, Christa-Maria Sieland (Martina Gedeck).

The monastic Wiesler eventually comes to believe Dreyman is harmless and in the process doubts the very foundations of autocracy itself. A film that is “alert to the Kafkaesque absurdity of everyday life” in communist regimes, it “has a maturity and breadth of vision rarely found in a debut feature,” said Geoffrey Macnam at Sight and Sound. (Prime Video)

‘Argo’ (2012)

Ben Affleck directs and stars in this zippy thriller about the clandestine efforts to exfiltrate six American diplomats who managed to escape before they became hostages at the U.S. embassy during the Iranian Revolution. Affleck stars as CIA officer Tony Mendez, who concocts a creative cover story about how the diplomats are in Iran working on a Canadian science-fiction film. Affleck “displays a fearlessness when it comes to mixing genre” in this “part-comic, part-thriller narrative” whose mostly-but-not-entirely-true twists and turns “ensure your nails are down to the quick by the end credits,” said Amber Wilkinson at Eye for Film. (Prime Video)

‘Manuscripts Don’t Burn’ (2013)

Iranian director Mohammad Rasoulof’s haunting “Manuscripts Don’t Burn” had to be smuggled into the Cannes Film Festival to protect its cast and crew, who remain anonymous to this day. It follows two government assassins, Khosrow and Morteza, who are tasked with tracking down, torturing and killing a group of dissidents suspected of distributing a manuscript.

That document pertains to what became known in Iran as the “Chain Murders,” a series of assassinations of intellectuals and dissidents in the 1990s. A “harrowing masterpiece,” it is an “unflinching look at creative oppression” that stands as an “entirely singular film experience,” said Joshua Brunsting at CriterionCast. (Prime Video)

‘Official Secrets’ (2019)

The combination of arrogance and doctored intelligence that led the United States and its allies into the 2003 Iraq War is almost made for Hollywood. In “Official Secrets,” real-life British intelligence officer Katharine Gun (Keira Knightley) uncovers evidence of a joint British-American conspiracy to spy on and then pressure diplomats from countries on the U.N. Security Council to secure their votes for a resolution authorizing the war.

Martin Bright (Matt Smith) and Peter Beaumont (Matthew Goode) are journalists at The Observer who wrestle with the implications of publishing the story. The film turns a “historical footnote with potent resonance” into a “compelling tale of injustice on an individual and global level,” said Peter Travers at Rolling Stone. (Netflix)

The perfect summer cocktail used to include “enough sugar to make a dessert blush”, said The Times. Now, though, “Britain’s drinks cabinets are taking a decidedly saltier turn” as people opt for a “splash of pickle juice” or a sprinkle of chilli flakes in their cocktails.

Waitrose has enjoyed “rising sales of sauces, citrus juices and seasonings” as shoppers turn to savoury cocktails, said Grocery Trade News. With shopping lists full of items like hot honey and chilli crisp, it's only natural that drinks follow suit.

Savoury cocktails are far from new but their “recent momentum is impossible to ignore”, said Rachel King on Forbes. Not confined by any rulebook, these drinks can be “earthy, briny or smoky”, and all are complex and bold. While one may be tempted to dismiss savoury drinks as “gimmicks, they have “moved from the margins to the spotlight” because of the “steady refinement of ingredients and techniques”.

Many drinks highlight East Asian flavours through ingredients like “nori, sesame, soy, dried mushrooms and teas”, which have become “common in modern bar programmes”. Other savoury ingredients like “pickled vegetables, spices like basil and thyme and bacon fat” are also appearing in cocktails that appeal to “adventurous” bar customers, Jen Jackson, from Thompson Restaurants, told Forbes.

If you want to delve into the world of savoury cocktails but don’t know where to start, try the gibson cocktail. The “punchy tipple” is “garnished with a pickled onion that’s been charred in a hot, non-stick frying pan”, said Good Food. Similar to a classic martini, the drink is made by mixing dry vermouth and gin. Pour them into a glass or jug and add some ice cubes. Give it a stir “for around 30 seconds” before straining into a “chilled cocktail glass”.

Another twist on a classic is a Mediterranean savoury gin and tonic, which adds tomatoes and ginger to the traditional recipe. Add a halved cherry tomato on a cocktail stick and sprinkle in some drops of “good-quality extra virgin olive oil” before serving for an “elegant finish”.

South Korea has some wondrous ancient sites, and none are more important than those around Gyeongju, says Oliver Berry in National Geographic Traveller. Set among forested hills a couple of hours by high-speed train from Seoul, this historic town is a lovely place to wander, with its leafy avenues and traditional hanok houses and gardens.

But the height of its glory came more than 1,000 years ago: from 57BC until AD935 it was the capital of the kingdom of Silla, and for some time, one of the largest cities on Earth. The “most obvious legacy” of that time are the royal tombs “dotted around” the town – more than 100 mounds like giant “molehills”. Several of these have yielded extraordinary treasures, many of which are on display at the town’s dazzling National Museum.

Alongside Baekje and Goguryeo, Silla was one of three kingdoms that ruled the Korean peninsula together for hundreds of years, until the late 7th century when, with the help of Tang Chinese forces, it defeated the others. Many of Gyeongju’s treasures date from before that victory – including the 11,000 items found in the Cheonmachong (or “heavenly horse”) tomb, believed to have been created in the 5th or 6th century.

Today, visitors can enter the mound itself, where golden crowns, jewelled caps, suits of armour and gilt-bronze sandals sit under spotlights in the “inky” darkness. The most famous item is a birch-bark saddle emblazoned with a prancing horse – the design from which the tomb takes its modern name.

Several other sites around town also have roots in the Silla period, including the Woljeonggyo Bridge, a recent reconstruction of a structure built in AD760. Flanked by “ornate” gatehouses, and spanning 60m, it is the country’s largest wooden bridge. Grander still is Bulguksa Temple, set on the slopes of Mount Tohan, nine miles from Gyeongju. Although restored and altered many times over the years, the temple retains various treasures from the 8th and 9th centuries, including stone pagodas, and gilt-bronze statues of the seated Buddha.

Forming part of the border between Oregon and Washington State, the Columbia River Gorge is fabulously grand, said Chris Leadbeater in The Telegraph – and you need only drive for 20 miles from central Portland (an “unfailingly hip” city) to see it. Even the first view you get of it, from Crown Point, is worth the journey – and from there, the gorge stretches for 80 miles to the east, reaching depths of up to 1,220 metres. Interstate 84 runs its entire length – a “noisy man-made intrusion”, but dwarfed even so by the surroundings; and there’s a quieter option, the Historic Columbia River Highway, for those with time to spare. Stop to see the gorge’s towering waterfalls (the tallest is Multnomah Falls, at 189 metres); and head into the Hood River Valley for “dazzling” views of Mount Hood, a “vast” volcano rearing to 3,429 metres.

A long walk in 1066 country

The Bayeux Tapestry has arrived in the UK for the first time in a millennium, and can be seen at the British Museum from 10 September – making this a good year to do the 1066 Country Walk, said Pamela Petro in The Guardian. This 31-mile route across East Sussex begins at Pevensey, where William the Conqueror landed that September, and passes through Battle, the “probable” site of the Battle of Hastings, en route to Rye. We walked it in four days. The claim made for the walk is loose – it crosses “countryside that witnessed the Norman Conquest” – reflecting the limits of the historical record. Tent Hill is a place where one army or other – “no one knows which” – is said to have camped. But I loved it even so. This is a beautiful part of England (including the High Weald National Landscape), and the scenery often “calls the distant past to mind” – even sharing the tapestry’s “russet, sage and ochre hues”, when I walked it last September.

An elegant Breton seaside resort

It was “aristocratic Britons” who first made Dinard fashionable as a sea-bathing place in the mid-19th century, but today it is more popular with Parisians “eager to escape the ever-increasing heat and glitz of the Côte d’Azur”. This resort town on Brittany’s north coast is a delight, said Kate Maxwell in the Financial Times, with its “elegant” Belle Époque architecture, quiet sandy beaches and “superlative” seafood. It’s easy to reach from the UK, too – a quick ferry ride across the Rance estuary from Saint-Malo – and sits near other charming coastal spots such as Saint-Briac-sur-Mer. You might stay at the “handsome” Grand Hôtel Dinard, built in the 1850s, try the excellent savoury galettes at the Breizh Café, and visit “the sweep of the Plage de l’Écluse”, which was the inspiration for several of Picasso’s “Bathers” paintings.

I must have eaten a masala omelette every other day when I went on a four-week trip in India, and unsurprisingly I never got bored, said Emma Petersen. It’s spicy, savoury and so delicious, and it’s a brilliant way to switch up your usual breakfast. Serve simply alongside some leaves, or tuck it into a roti for a more substantial masala egg wrap.

Ingredients (serves 2)

• 6 eggs
• ½ tsp ground coriander
• ½ tsp ground cumin
• ½ tsp ground turmeric
• ½ onion, finely diced
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 salad tomato, finely diced
• 1 green chilli, thinly sliced
• 1 tbsp roughly chopped fresh coriander
• salt and pepper
• olive oil, for cooking
• dressed salad leaves, to serve

Method

• Crack the eggs into a mixing bowl and add the ground coriander, cumin, turmeric and a generous pinch of salt and pepper.
• Whisk until the yolks and whites are completely combined.
• Fold in the onion, garlic, tomato, green chilli and fresh coriander, so everything is evenly distributed.
• Heat a drizzle of oil in a non-stick frying pan over medium heat.
• Once hot, pour in half the egg mixture and use a spatula to spread it gently to the edges of the pan. Cook for about 3 minutes until the underside is golden and the top is mostly set, then flip and cook for another couple of minutes. Slide onto a plate.
• Wipe out the pan, add another drizzle of oil and repeat with the rest of the egg mixture to make your second omelette. (Or, if you’re working to the clock, cook both at once using two pans.)
• Serve warm with dressed leaves.
• Alternatively, cool and place in an airtight container, storing in the fridge for up to 2 days. Enjoy cold, or reheat gently in a pan or the microwave until warmed through.

Taken from “Healthyish High Protein: Full-on Flavour, All-day Energy” by Emma Petersen.

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Built to celebrate Škoda’s 130th birthday, the Fabia 130 is a sporty hatchback – a souped-up version of the top-tier Monte Carlo trim, and the fastest Fabia yet. With a top speed of 141mph, it does 0-62mph in 7.4secs; and bhp is up from 148 to 175 thanks to a beefy 1.5-litre turbocharged petrol engine, paired with the seven-speed automatic gearbox. Tweaks have been made to the suspension, throttle control, traction and steering, said The Telegraph.

According to Autocar, the 130 is a “warm hatch”, not “hot enough” to earn Škoda’s sporty vRS badge – but some proper hardware engineering has gone into it. It’s “satisfying to drive quickly”: an entertaining but comfortable ride. The chassis is “nicely judged”, the 18-inch alloy wheels have good grip, but the steering lacks feel, and it’s a shame there’s no option for a manual gearbox.

Inside the Fabia 130 it’s like going back to the mid-2010s – which is great for usability, with lots of physical buttons, knobs and dials, but “old and a bit dull” to look at, said Car Magazine. All in all, the 130 is a pleasantly “warmed-over version of this middle-aged small car”. It’ll cost you around £30,000, and for that you could get a faster Mini Cooper S; but the Fabia offers better value: it’s a superior ride and is a more practical all-rounder.

“And why do you think you are sick?”

I knew why I was sick. I was sick because I had a cold. And I had a cold because I have a toddler. And toddlers are, as far as I can tell, living, breathing vectors of disease.

But when I gave that answer to Dr Melanie Gatt, pithily I might add, on my first proper morning at Mayrlife, she looked at me with the patient expression, ironically, of someone explaining something to a toddler.

Because at Mayrlife, it turns out there is much more to every sickness. Here, in a pristine clinic on the banks of an even more pristine glacial Austrian lake, illness is not simply bad luck that happens to you. It is a signal. And almost every signal, according to the Mayr method on which the whole place is built, traces back in some way to the gut.

It is fair to say that when I arrived at Mayrlife, and having read some of the reviews, I was a tad sceptical and a bit more than a tad apprehensive. No alcohol I could just about do, but no caffeine? And no sugar? Well that sounded like no fun at all. I was fully braced for days of being upsold pseudoscience by people in white linen. But I left, to my considerable and ongoing surprise, a convert. Not to a diet, but to an entire way of thinking about what it takes to live a good, healthy life.

Why stay here?

Mayrlife is tucked away on the banks of Lake Altaussee, a glacial jewel hidden in the mountains of the Salzkammergut, roughly two hours from Salzburg. Austria is not a country that does things by halves and if you come to Mayrlife solely for the views, you will not be disappointed. Throughout my stay I felt connected with nature in a way that is a lot harder to achieve in a city in the UK. In fact the spa town has a history of salt mining that stretches back centuries and some of Mayrlife’s treatments involve that very salt.

The medical methodology underpinning everything here was developed by Dr Franz Xaver Mayr, a 19th-century Austrian physician who became convinced that the health of the digestive system was the key to overall wellbeing. In essence, it was Mayr’s view that an unhappy or inflamed gut undermines the immune system and that a great many of the ailments we treat as separate misfortunes, such as my cold, are in fact the same story told in different symptoms. This was the crux of Dr Gatt’s question and it is the philosophical backbone of what is now called Modern Mayr Medicine. It is a fundamentally holistic way of treating ailments through a personalised nutritional plan and medical treatments.

If that sounds like a lot of hard work for a holiday, CEO Dr Dieter Resch and his medical team deliver the whole experience with the elegance and class of a five-star hotel as well as the rigour and scientific knowledge of a private health clinic. It was clear from my very first day at Mayrlife that these were not people gesturing vaguely at science. They were doing the actual thing.

Mayrlife has 64 rooms, ranging from comfortable doubles to suites, penthouses and even private residences. The park residences are Mayrlife’s most generous offering. Containing a loft-style living area with kitchen, two bedrooms, two bathrooms and a sweeping balcony with lake views, they also come with a private spa replete with steam bath and sauna.

While those are for the rich and famous (of which Mayrlife counts many as clientele, discreetly of course) even the rooms for us mere mortals are perfectly appointed. Every room in the building has a view of either the lake, the Dachstein Glacier or the village below. The interiors are warm and soft, while the beds are undoubtedly the most comfortable I’ve ever slept in. In fact, much of the experience of being in the room is very similar to that of a high-end hotel. Just with more materials offering you ultrasounds and IVs. And, of course, no chocolates on the pillow.

Eating and drinking

Food at Mayrlife is both a form of therapy and a learning exercise. The kitchen uses regional and organic ingredients to produce menus built around the principles of gut regeneration. They are also calibrated precisely to each individual’s diagnostics. Those initial assessments with Dr Gatt, tested through a muscle-response exercise, what your body is and is not tolerating when it comes to a number of food groups. That test, along with blood analysis, forms the foundation for a custom nutrition plan that evolves throughout the stay.

It is worth saying the meals you get at Mayrlife are not like the meals you’ve had at a hotel. They are broth heavy, smaller in volume than a typical hotel dinner and guests are encouraged to chew at least 40 times before they swallow. All of the meals I had at Mayrlife were delicious, but more importantly they felt nourishing. If the treatment at Mayrlife is holistic, that shines through in the food. The plate is put together as a whole, with no one aspect a star, rather the ingredients sing in unison. That is not to say I wasn’t dreaming of chocolate Hobnobs by day three. But they make it a lot easier to follow the plan by making the meals themselves so delicious.

Somewhere around day three I was handed a single sheet of paper headed “10 Ingredients for Your Well-Being”. It is a mantra for eating and one that on the face of it I knew but I very rarely did.

For example, begin the day with warm water and herbal tea rather than coffee. Eat raw food only before four in the afternoon, because raw vegetables in the evening sit and ferment in the gut rather than doing anyone any good. Try to leave four or five hours between meals so the digestive system can finish what the sheet euphemistically called its “clean-up”, like “a kitchen after cooking”. Use cold-pressed oils and keep them in the fridge. Everyone should have a good breakfast, a hearty lunch and a light dinner. Chew properly. Taste things. In fact, the most radical instruction on the entire page was to pay attention to what you were eating while you were eating it. That means no phones in the dining room and no chatting too. They place a real emphasis on mindful eating.

None of this is revolutionary, and that is precisely the point. What Mayrlife does is take a set of principles you already basically know to be true and remove every obstacle to actually following them. This means that after a few days the new rhythm stops feeling like a regime and starts feeling like the obvious way to do things. By the end of the week, I could see the error of my ways. Not only did I sleep better than I had done since my toddler was born, but the idea of stuffing myself full with pasta and then immediately going to sleep no longer appealed. It was fundamentally a change of mindset.

What distinguishes Mayrlife from the more spartan end of the detox resort market is the cooking school. Guests don’t just eat differently for a week, they can learn how to replicate it. The class uses everyday kitchen equipment and demonstrations showing how to put the dishes together, equipping guests for when they return home. The genius of it is in that implication. This is not a week you survive and then leave behind, but a way of doing things for the rest of your life.

Things to do

A typical Mayrlife day arrives, printed and personalised in your room. The diagnostics that underpin all of this, be it the blood analysis, tolerance testing, a 3D body scan, the myodiagnostic, are of a level usually associated with elite sport or at least very specialist private medicine. But it was Dr Gatt’s calm, evidence-led way of explaining the results that made me excited to see and feel their effects. The list of treatments Mayrlife offer feels limitless and they can range from psychotherapies to IVs to ultrasounds. What Willy Wonka was to chocolate factories, Mayrlife is to medical treatments.

My treatments ranged from the restorative to the genuinely bracing. Cryotherapy takes place in a chamber at minus 110C. This is a temperature the body treats as a full-blown emergency and responds to accordingly, accelerating recovery and dampening inflammation. The IHHT hypoxytraining alternates the oxygen you breathe to mimic high altitude and stimulate the body’s cellular machinery. Water plasma therapy and water shiatsu take place in a highly concentrated saltwater pool. There is a Swiss stone pine sauna, multiple infrared cabins, and a beauty concept developed alongside Dr Barbara Sturm, the skincare physician whose anti-inflammatory approach has acquired something of a cult following among skincare aficionados. The idea, consistent with everything else at Mayrlife, is to work from the inside out.

It is hard to say exactly what benefit each treatment brought me, given I had never had very many of them before. But I certainly felt rejuvenated and restored after the treatments and my fitness watch notified me of an improvement in my recovery times after exercise and my sleep scores. Data begets data but it’s hard to argue with the numbers.

For those who wish to venture out of the resort, the surrounding landscape is spectacular. There are guided hikes and mountain bike tours as well as tennis and a nine-hole golf course in the immediate vicinity. The lake itself is perfect for a dip – although I was warned off that because of my cold – and it is hard not to lose yourself in the magnificence of your surroundings, even if it’s just for a little walk to start your day.

The verdict

It is hard to compare the experience in Mayrlife. The comparison to make is less with other hotels than with places where you can get private diagnostic medicine and a week of serious clinical intervention. It is worth noting as well that the support does not stop when your stay does: Mayrlife’s medical team continues to guide you once you are home. In fact the number of repeat visitors is testament to the fact that their programme works for a large number of guests.

It is far more than a wellbeing reset, and far more than just a beautiful setting. The benefit of being shown that every choice you make when it comes to food and your gut can make a massive difference. And that there are better choices available.

So why was I sick? Well I still blame my toddler. But I am still following some of the Mayr method at home. I’m practising mindful eating and taking the supplements I was prescribed. But more than the effect on my day to day has been an effect on the way I view eating and the choices I make about what I put in my gut. Did I wolf down the free chocolate Hobnobs on the flight home? Yes. But as Frank Sinatra would have said if he’d been to Altaussee, I did it (the) Mayr way.

Mayrlife Medical Health Resort, Altaussee, Austria. Programmes from €2,990 (7 nights, all treatments and food included). Rooms from €460/night. mayrlife.com

Ana Mendieta “made art from blood, feathers, flowers and sand and in such fresh ways, you’d think these primeval substances were new inventions”, said Jonathan Jones in The Guardian.

“She literally played with fire, drawing a human figure with gunpowder on the ground or on the trunk of a tree, then setting it alight”; the resulting scorched shadows bring to mind the victims of a nuclear bomb or the dead of Pompeii.

Mendieta was born in Cuba in 1948, and when the revolution came, she was sent to the US, where she always felt like an outsider. “Home, for her, was the past”, and she made it her mission to “excavate the very origins of art and mythology”.

Mendieta worked in many disciplines: painting, film, photography, performance, sculpture. She used “organic matter”: a human silhouette made of flowers; a hand imprint in a muddy wasteland; a fertility goddess figure carved in limestone. Her art is “irresistible”, and creates “a personal mythology … as weirdly coherent as William Blake’s”.

If she had lived, Mendieta would have been “at the forefront of the art of this century”. But in 1985, aged only 36, she died – falling from the balcony of her 34th-floor apartment in New York, in suspicious circumstances. The artist Carl Andre, her husband, was tried for murder, and acquitted.

The show is packed with “raw, timely works”, said Chloë Ashby in The Independent. They “compel us to pay attention to the natural world”. Scattered throughout are pieces from her Silueta Series, begun in 1973. Many of these are photographs, documenting the artist’s practice of stamping human silhouettes into mud and observing as “weeds and brambles” or other growths rendered them invisible.

Elsewhere, a famous video sees the artist next to a stream, “pouring a pail of cow’s blood over her body”. Blood spilling from her limbs, she lies down in “a mass of soft white chicken feathers”. When she stands, she is “a woman transformed, part-human, part-bird, bizarrely and brilliantly engaged with nature”.

Many of Mendieta’s concerns – “feminism, environmentalism, anti-colonialism” – resonate today, said Alastair Sooke in The Telegraph. Yet this is not a show about “identity politics”. It is, rather, “filled with a rich visual poetry” that is “both forceful and fragile”.

One photograph from the Silueta Series, for instance, sees a human outline half buried on a hillside, “arms clamped by its sides in the manner of an Egyptian mummy”. Another sees Mendieta herself deep in a rocky cavity, as if consumed by the wildflowers sprouting around her.

The exhibition doesn’t make a martyr of her: Andre is barely mentioned, and this is for the best. Staged with “flair” and “sensitivity”, it crackles with “a sense of pagan magic” – and it’s by far the best show Tate Modern has mounted this summer.

Tate Modern, London SE1. Until 17 January

Suffolk: The Old Shoulder House, Hadleigh

This eye- catching Grade II 800-year-old former pub blends Tudor, Georgian and Victorian influences, and has original features beautifully preserved throughout. 4 beds, 2 baths, kitchen, 3 receps, parking. £485,000; Edd Callegari.

Wiltshire: Bluett House, Malmesbury

An enchanting Grade II townhouse (centre with wooden balcony) with a 15th century medieval undercroft and views across the River Avon. 4 beds, 2 baths, kitchen/ breakfast room, 2 receps, office, garden, garage. £1.025 million; James Pyle.

East Sussex: The Caprons, Lewes

Elegant Grade II* Georgian house in the heart of Lewes, nestled in mature gardens. 5 beds, 4 baths, kitchen, 4 receps, garden. £1.85 million; Jackson-Stops.

Kent: High Street, Sandwich

An impressive Grade I building with living space above and three commercial units below, located in the centre of this thriving market town. The building currently houses two 3-bed maisonettes, a licensed restaurant/coffee shop, a printers and an estate agent, as well as a garage with five off-road parking spaces. £900,000; Frost & Partners.

Essex: April Cottage, Saffron Walden

Delightful Grade II* period cottage (the pale pink building) with plenty of period features, located on the historic and highly desirable Bridge Street, a short stroll from the town centre. 2 beds, family bath, kitchen, 2 receps, courtyard garden, outbuildings. £315,000; Arkwright & Co.

Berkshire: High Street, Hungerford

Handsome 18th century townhouse (blue doors) in need of modernisation; sold with planning permission. Currently: 3 offices, 2 beds, family bath, kitchen/dining room, utility. £445,000; Knight Frank.

Essex: Castle Street, Saffron Walden

A picturesque Grade II*cottage with a lovely mature garden. 2 beds, family bath, kitchen/breakfast room, 2 receps, garden. £475,000; Cheffins.

Interest in majoring in history may have declined over the course of the 21st century, but the field remains a powerful engine for streaming television content. Audiences are still flocking to true stories as well as fictional narratives set in an authentic past. Even in a landscape full of painstakingly rendered period dramas, these eight superb series stand out from the historical crowd.

‘Roots’ (1977)

“Roots” is the story of Kunta Kinte (LeVar Burton), seized from what is now The Gambia by slave trader Captain Davies (Edward Asner) in 1767 and then sold to the family of John Reynolds (Lorne Greene) in colonial Maryland. The story spans generations, with the narrative following Kunta’s daughter, Kizzy (Leslie Uggams), and grandson, Chicken George (Ben Vereen), who finally tastes freedom after the Civil War.

Unsparing in its depiction of slavery’s bottomless brutality and shocking cruelty, the series, which debuted just six months after the U.S. bicentennial celebrations, became a ratings sensation. A series whose “very existence seems remarkable” given the “overall whiteness of popular culture at that time,” it is the “most important scripted program in broadcast network history,” said Matt Zoller Seitz at Vulture. (Prime Video)

‘Pride and Prejudice’ (1995)

One of the most frequently adapted works of literature, Jane Austen’s 1813 novel, “Pride and Prejudice,” shines as never before or since in director Simon Langton’s celebrated, six-part limited series, which made Colin Firth a star. Firth plays Mr. Darcy, a wealthy aristocrat who first repels and then falls for Elizabeth Bennet (Jennifer Ehle), one of the struggling Mrs. Bennet’s five daughters and a razor-sharp wit.

Ehle and Firth have spectacular chemistry, and the runway of a limited series allows the creators space to fully explore the depth of Austen’s narrative. The BBC’s masterpiece is a “rare instance in which the screen adaptation of a novel serves as an equally worthy companion piece to the written source material,” said Tanya Pai at Vox. (Peacock)

‘Downton Abbey’ (2010-2015)

While it lends itself to easy parody, creator Julian Fellowes’ “Downton Abbey” is an ongoing global sensation, including three feature-length movies — all for good reason. Set on a crumbling English estate, the narrative begins before the First World War, as a family of aristocrats headed by Robert (Hugh Bonneville) and Cora Crawley (Elizabeth McGovern) and their three daughters navigate the social, political and economic changes sweeping the country.

The truest stroke of genius, though, was dividing the narrative between these often clueless elites and the cooks, servants and other employees of the estate, whose dramas are rendered with convincing detail and given voice by a superb ensemble over the course of six seasons. The series succeeds with “addictively gossipy tales of relationships and rivalries” as well as “longer arcs of social change and historical unravelling,” said Adam Sweeting at The Arts Desk. (Peacock)

‘The Last Kingdom’ (2015-2022)

Despite the inevitable comparisons to the fictional universe in “Game of Thrones,” the action in “The Last Kingdom” is grounded in history. The fictional character of Uhtred (Alexander Dreymon), a wealthy nobleman raised as a boy by invading Vikings, works with the real historical figure of King Alfred (David Dawson) to unify the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms and fend off the Great Heathen Army sent by Danish invaders.

Adapted from Bernard Cornwell’s popular “Saxon Stories” series of novels about the birth of England, the BBC Two production, which later moved to Netflix, outclasses a number of similar projects. The dedication to character development “turns every single small, seemingly innocuous moment on this show into a moment of insight and significance,” adding “richness and depth” to its “captivating” storytelling, said Kyle Fowle at The A.V. Club. (Netflix)

‘The Crown’ (2016-2023)

One of the more ambitious and successful productions undertaken in the streaming era, “The Crown” follows the life of Queen Elizabeth II from when she was a young woman thrust unexpectedly into power until the death of Princess Diana and her son Charles’ remarriage to Camilla Bowles. The principal characters, including Queen Elizabeth, are played by three different sets of actors for two seasons each.

The lavish production, which totaled $648 million, landed A-list actors like Dominic West as middle-aged Prince Charles and Olivia Colman as the Queen circa the 1970s, and humanized the royal family without whitewashing their selfishness and privilege. It is a triumph not just because of its “fair-minded characterizations of the Royal Family and the visual extravagances of one of the most expensive shows ever made but also in the deft incorporation of events that shaped U.K. politics, culture and national identity,” said Inkoo Kang at The New Yorker. (Netflix)

‘Alias Grace’ (2017)

“Alias Grace,” one of those shows that likely suffered from the Netflix model of dumping all of its episodes at once, stars Sarah Gadon (“Wayward”) as Grace Marks, a maid convicted of murdering her wealthy employer, Thomas Kinnear (Paul Gross) and his housekeeper, Nancy (Anna Paquin). Based on Margaret Atwood’s 1996 novel, itself a fictionalized account of a true story, the six-part limited series proceeds along two timelines, with Grace narrating the events of the past to a psychiatrist, Dr. Simon Jordan (Edward Holcroft), who becomes infatuated with her. The show, which meticulously recreates the milieu of 19th-century Canada, is “nothing short of a triumph,” said Rebecca Lea at Den of Geek, bolstered by a “fascinating, intelligent performance” from Cadon as the mysterious, unreliable narrator. (Netflix)

‘It’s a Sin’ (2021)

In 1981 London, three flatmates, Ritchie (Olly Alexander), Colin (Callum Scott Howells) and Roscoe (Omari Douglas) arrive in the big city to chase their dreams. They do so amidst the burgeoning HIV/AIDS crisis that begins as a seemingly distant rumor but eventually consumes many of the characters.

A uniformly excellent ensemble succeeds in depicting this historical tragedy over the ensuing decade by giving its characters authentic, convincing inner lives and never allowing them to lose their sense of joy and purpose amid the suffering that surrounds them. It is a “propulsive, galvanizing, even joyous” series that also serves as a “stirring requiem for the dead, shot through with defiant life,” said James Poniewozik at The New York Times. (HBO Max)

‘Pachinko’ (2022-2024)

Apple TV+ can frustrate with its disinterest in marketing some of its most lush productions, none more so than the gorgeous “Pachinko,” a multilingual historical epic set in Korea and Japan. It is a two-timeline series, following Sunja (Kim Min-ha) in early 20th century Korea and her emigration to Osaka, Japan in 1931 after marrying a Christian minister named Baek Isak (Noh Sang-hyun), and moves back and forth to the 1980s, where an elderly Sunja sees her grandson, Solomon Baek (Jin Ha), trying to succeed in business while navigating lingering discrimination against Koreans.

The series offers viewers insight into a setting — interwar Asia — and themes that should be novel to all but the most ardent historians. The show “ranks among the finest original series Apple has produced,” one whose plot mechanics “illustrate the cyclical nature of generational trauma,” said Alison Herman at Variety. (Apple TV+)

In 2023, the South Carolina lawyer Alex Murdaugh was convicted of murdering his wife, Maggie, and 22-year-old son Paul. The pair had been shot at the family’s hunting estate; Murdaugh claimed to have discovered the bodies after returning from a visit to his mother.

It’s not hard to see why the case “gripped America”, said Robbie Millen in The Times. It involved the “privileged and powerful” – the Murdaughs were big cheeses in the South Carolina Lowcountry – and the man himself, known as “Big Red”, didn’t seem the murdering type: he appeared to be a “loving husband and doting father” with a charming “down-home manner”.

Yet as the novelist James Lasdun shows in this “elegant and intelligent” book, Murdaugh was in fact a fraudster who swindled millions out of clients and law firm colleagues, and was addicted to opioid painkillers. In “Family Man”, Lasdun does a “skilful job of juggling all the elements of the story, which takes some dark and ludicrous turns”.

Prosecutors claimed Murdaugh was driven to murder because his financial deceptions were about to be revealed, said Kathryn Hughes in The Guardian. They said he believed that no one would launch proceedings against him while he was dealing with a “tragedy of such biblical proportions”.

At first, Lasdun was sceptical of this theory, refusing to believe that a man with no history of domestic violence could “bring himself to shoot loved ones merely to delay his own imminent financial exposure”. Yet in his “meticulous” retelling – the “prose is pure pleasure” – Lasdun comes to accept that “Big Red” was probably guilty, despite never reaching an “iron-clad conclusion”.

“More than 10 books about the Murdaughs have been published to date”, and HBO and Netflix have both released miniseries about the killings, said Orlando Whitfield in The New York Times. Lasdun “does not pretend to reveal new evidence about the murders”; instead, he relays the tale of the “fall of the house of Murdaugh” in often “staggering” detail.

While at times this threatens to become overwhelming, his approach does “illuminate, to devastating effect”, how the case encompassed many of the “direst aspects of contemporary American life: opioid addiction, litigiousness, brazen mendacity”. And the final chapters are “stunning”. Even now, “there’s more to come”, said Millen in The Times. This May, Murdaugh’s conviction was overturned on appeal, owing to jury interference. A retrial is expected. “I can’t wait to read Lasdun’s musings in an updated paperback.”

In his new role as artistic director of Birmingham Rep, Joe Murphy has got off to a flier, said Alison Brinkworth on WhatsOnStage. Having given us a “sparkling” “Midsummer Night’s Dream” for his main stage debut, we now have this production of Stephen Sondheim’s “Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street”, and it is “dazzling” – superbly designed, thrillingly cast and “sure to bring goosebumps of excitement”.

Murphy has deployed a fairly small company, accompanied by a superb seven-piece live orchestra, but as every performance is a head-turner, the evening feels “epic”.

Sondheim’s 1979 musical – about the late 18th-century London barber whose quest for vengeance on the corrupt judge who raped his wife, had him banished and stole his infant daughter leads him into multiple gruesome murders – is given a “grandly monumental staging” that suits the story’s “operatic sweep”, while releasing the musical from any “Victoriana clutter”, said Holly Williams in The Stage.

Fittingly for a tale about how violence corrupts, a vast angel of justice hangs between two staircases, while soot spreads up pale walls and white costumes like a “creeping moral stain”.

Ramin Karimloo brings a “fabulously demonic darkness to his portrayal of Sweeney”, a man who clutches his “personal pain like a knife”, said Rachel Halliburton in The Times. And his performance is more than matched by that of the cabaret star Meow Meow, who makes for a “rip-roaringly Hogarthian” Mrs Lovett, the yellow-clad accomplice who bakes the demon barber’s victims into pies (here, revenge is a dish served hot). But in this production there isn’t a single weak link, “vocally or dramatically”.

In a staging notable for its clarity, visually and otherwise, the singers’ diction is as sharp as a scalpel cutting through ice – “not one sliver of Sondheim’s spikily subtle wit goes missing”; and Leo Munby’s musical direction “brilliantly captures the tale’s jagged emotions”. All told, it’s a deliciously blood-curdling production that “goes for the jugular but ultimately captures your heart”.

The House, Birmingham Rep. Until 15 August.

Christopher Nolan is “hardly a stranger to ambition”, said John Nugent on Empire. His first major film, “Memento”, told its story in two sequences – one that moved forward in time, the other backwards. Since then he has tackled wars, “dreams, wormholes, the nuclear apocalypse and Victorian teleportation machines”. But his adaptation of Homer’s “Odyssey” – the 8th-century BC Greek poem that is the definition of epic – may be his most ambitious yet.

The first feature to be shot entirely on giant Imax 70mm cameras, it is “jaw-detaching” in its scope and scale. Plunging the viewer into a world of both “divine fantasy and grounded realism”, this is filmmaking “at a magnitude” few directors could imagine, let alone execute.

Nolan has produced a “mythic spectacle” that honours its ancient source material, “while also addressing more topical themes of exile, war trauma and survivor’s guilt”, said Wendy Ide in The Observer.

Like the poem, the film unfolds in multiple timelines. The present-day framing takes place on the island where an exhausted Odysseus (Matt Damon) washed up 10 years after the Battle of Troy, and is now held captive by the nymph Calypso (Charlize Theron).

In the same time frame, we meet his sad queen Penelope (Anne Hathaway) who – back in Ithaca – is being besieged by “power-hungry suitors”, including Antinous (a marvellously venomous Robert Pattinson), while her restless son Telemachus (Tom Holland) waits for the return of the father he has never known. Incidents from the previous decade are then woven in as Odysseus recovers his battered memory – the deception at Troy, and his adventures in the years after that, including an encounter with the enchantress Circe (Samantha Morton), and a diversion through Hades.

Nolan has conjured some “tremendous” scenes, said Deborah Ross in The Spectator, some of which would not be out of place in a horror film (the cyclops is “truly terrifying”). I had my doubts about Damon’s casting, but in the end he does make you care about the man broken by the years he has lost. And though some may find the modern speech jarring, what’s the alternative? We’d struggle if they spoke in ancient Greek.

But for two hours the film is just set-piece after set-piece, backed by a deafening score, which becomes rather wearying. Yes, it’s short on jokes, said Kevin Maher in The Times; but “The Odyssey” – with its extraordinary cinematography and big ideas “about the impossibility of home” and “the absurdity of heroic individualism in a boundless universe” – is a masterpiece nonetheless.

Film fans are embarking on “epic journeys of their own” to see Christopher Nolan’s adaptation of “The Odyssey” in one of the “few surviving” Imax 70mm cinemas, said The Guardian.

That’s because it’s the first feature film to be shot entirely on 1570 film – “named for the width of the film stock (70mm) and the 15 perforations on each frame”. It’s “the highest-resolution film format in existence”, so it makes sense for fans to watch the Oscar-winning filmmaker’s masterpiece in his “preferred format”, right?

‘Very exclusive’

But getting your hands on “summer’s hottest ticket” is far from easy, said Mashable. Fans are spending “hundreds of dollars”, travelling thousands of miles, and even planning pregnancies around seeing Nolan’s film in Imax 70mm cinemas: the only format that lets you watch “The Odyssey” with the “fullest image possible”.

Those who opt for other cinemas, with formats like the standard 70mm, or 35mm, will have a “sizeable chunk” of the frame cut off. So some of the “sheer vastness of the landscapes that Nolan and cinematographer Hoyte van Hoytema are capturing” will be lost.

Most cinemas shifted to digital around a decade ago and there are just 41 worldwide that are able to show Imax 1570 film, eight of which are in California. The UK is home to three of them: two in London and one in Manchester. No theatres in Asia, Africa or South America can screen Nolan’s film in his intended format, making it a “very exclusive – and very Western – affair”.

I thought the “buzz” around “The Odyssey” being shot on Imax 1570 cameras was “clever marketing hype”, said Charles Pulliam-Moore on The Verge. But to “get a true sense of the story Nolan is telling” you really do need to watch it in an Imax. Many of the scenes are “perfectly fine” in the 35mm format; however, those that feature the film’s “gargantuan monsters” take on a “different gravity” when displayed in the Imax 70mm’s 1.43:1 ratio.

Nolan has made a film that is “immersive” in a way most modern features aren’t. But the higher ticket price coupled with the fact that the “vast majority” of people will never get to watch his film in the way he intended it has prompted accusations that the director is “anti-art and contributing to the culture of obsessive format purism”.

‘Far more fiddly and expensive’

Shooting on 1570 cameras is no easy task as they’re “notoriously heavy, loud and require frequent reloading”, said The Guardian. During “The Odyssey” shoot the film stock had to be changed “every three minutes” and Nolan worked closely with Imax to create a “soundproofing ‘blimp’ to house the 180kg camera to make it quiet enough for him to record dialogue on 1570 for the first time”. Projecting the finished film is also “far more fiddly and expensive” as a highly trained projectionist needs to be present for the entire screening.

But Nolan’s popularity has risen alongside 1570’s “mini comeback”. The number of cinemas able to project these films has risen from 30 to 41 since the release of “Oppenheimer” in 2023. And it’s not just Nolan who has helped spark interest in the format: several other big-name directors have followed suit including Denis Villeneuve who shot “Dune: Part Three” on Imax cameras.

“There’s certainly more demand,” Imax CEO Richard Gelfond told Variety. But adding more 70mm screens isn’t that simple as new Imax film projectors haven’t been made in “about 50 years”. Sources at Imax said many of the parts needed to build them “simply no longer exist”.

Even if Imax does “magically” figure out a way to manufacture more 70mm projectors, there aren’t many cinemas where they could be installed as “exhibitors aren’t building enough auditoriums that are capable of housing its towering 1.43:1 screens because of high construction costs”.

The company remains one of the movie industry’s few “reliable bright spots”, with attendances having “languished” since the pandemic, said Rebecca Rubin in Variety. Buyers have been “circling” and in May it was reportedly in the “early stages of exploring a sale”. For now, Imax is in an “enviable position”.

“It is still one of the great bargains in British culture,” said The Times. An on-the-day Promming ticket at the Albert Hall is just £8 – and the wide variety of “world-class talent you can catch for under a tenner is remarkable”.

Running until 12 September, the “world’s biggest classical music festival” features a jam-packed schedule of 86 concerts, said The Telegraph. Most are in London, but other venues across the UK will also be hosting events in locations including Gateshead, Bristol and Sunderland. It’s a “truly spectacular” line-up.

Edward Gardner and An Alpine Symphony

“Some works are just made to soar at the Royal Albert Hall and Strauss’ widescreen tone poem is one of them,” said The Times. Conductor Edward Gardner will be your “sherpa on this journey up and down the mountain” with the London Philharmonic Orchestra. Expect dazzling vocals from soprano Louise Alder, who will be singing Joseph Canteloube’s celebrated orchestral “Songs of the Auvergne”.

Royal Albert Hall, 27 July

Kafka Fragments

Finnish soprano Anu Komsi and her husband Sakari Oramo perform this hauntingly beautiful recital as part of celebrations to mark György Kurtág’s 100th birthday. It’s a “very different, vanishingly delicate side” to the Hungarian composer’s music, filled with “faint echoes” of Bach, Schumann and Bartók, said The Telegraph.

Bristol Beacon, 9 August

Berlioz’s Requiem

The “biggest beast” is Hector Berlioz’s “Requiem”, written to commemorate the French soldiers in the revolution of July 1830, said The Guardian. Antonio Pappano conducts the “humungous” London Symphony Orchestra plus “extra brass choirs dotted around the Albert Hall”.

Royal Albert Hall, 15 August

Amériques

“Someone at the Proms deserves a pat on the back for including Edgard Varèse’s bracingly vivid ‘Amériques’”, in a season that marks the 250th birthday of the USA, said The Times. The French-born composer wrote this “homage to urban chaos” shortly after he “decamped to New York”. It’s performed together with Dvořák’s “Cello Concerto”.

Royal Albert Hall, 23 August

Martha Argerich

Argerich is 84 years old but the Argentinian pianist’s “astoundingly athletic artistry” is “undimmed”, said The Telegraph. She will be returning to the Proms with the Munich Philharmonic for Beethoven’s “2nd Piano Concerto”, and the concert also contains an overture by “feisty” Parisian composer Louise Farranc.

Royal Albert Hall, 5 September

Your eyes do not deceive you. These colossal hotel swimming pools are as gigantic as they look. They are each property’s main attraction, letting swimmers, divers and paddleboarders live out their aquatic fantasies. Some are historic, and some are modern wonders, but all are architectural marvels.

The Biltmore, Coral Gables, Florida

Guests have been diving into The Biltmore’s massive pool — it covers 23,000 square feet and holds 600,000 gallons of water — since 1926. Surrounded by “grand Mediterranean architecture and classical statues,” the pool is an opulent spot for “doing laps or having a leisurely float,” said Secret Miami. Esther Williams once used it as her stage, putting on aquatic shows before starstruck crowds, and Tarzan himself, Johnny Weissmuller, spent time here as a swimming instructor.

Diamante Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

Spanning 10 acres, the saltwater Crystal Lagoons pool offers something for everyone. Guests can go swimming, sailing, kayaking and paddleboarding, stopping whenever they’d like for a refreshing drink at the swim-up bar. While lounging poolside, you can soak up views of the Pacific Ocean and the sand dunes of the Diamante Golf Club, ranked by Golf Digest as the top course in Mexico.

Fontainebleau Las Vegas, Nevada

Fontainebleau Las Vegas’ six-acre Oasis Pool Deck fits right in with the city’s “glitz and glamour,” said Time Out. Take your pick from seven different pool experiences, like hanging out at the “high-energy” LIV Beach day club or relaxing in the blissful La Mer enclave.

On certain nights, the Oasis Pool Deck turns into an outdoor theater, with “Black Panther,” “The Secret Life of Pets” and other popular movies screened poolside. Swimming is not only allowed during the movies but encouraged.

Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

Think of Singapore, and its distinctive Marina Bay Sands hotel will likely come to mind. The property — three towers with a rooftop infinity pool “balanced” across the 57th floors — is a “fixture of every postcard rack and travel brochure,” said Travel and Leisure.

The swimming pool is part of Marina Bay Sands’ claim to fame: At 492-feet long, it’s the world’s largest infinity pool. Only open to hotel guests, the views from the deck are phenomenal, and it’s “obligatory” to take a selfie with the skyscrapers behind you.

The Oberoi Udaivilas, Udaipur, India

At the “glamorous” Oberoi Udaivilas, the long pool that stretches past its suites is an “architectural work of wonder,” said Condé Nast Traveler. Guests can slip into the water from their patios or relax on a lounger, gazing out at the pool “sandwiched between views of the garden and ocean.” For the ultimate stay, book one of the extravagant accommodations that comes with its own private pool.

Perfect Day at CocoCay, Bahamas

There’s only one way to get to Oasis Lagoon, the Caribbean’s largest freshwater pool, and that’s by Royal Caribbean ship. Oasis Lagoon is located on a private island used exclusively by the cruise line and caters to all interests.

Families usually stay in the far end of the pool, with its “sloping entry and gentle fountains,” while adults in party mode assemble by the swim-up bar, said The Points Guy. There are “numerous little nooks” where you can find “in-the-water seats” and “undulating loungers in the shallows.”

San Alfonso del Mar, Algarrobo, Chile

To see San Alfonso del Mar’s “jaw-dropping” swimming pool is to believe it, said Islands. The 3,000-foot-long pool holds 66 million gallons of water and is a “breathtaking feat of craftsmanship.”

When the property opened in 2006, it earned the Guinness World Record title for largest swimming pool on Earth, overshadowing even its closest competition. Today, it’s the “perfect” playground for sailors and kayakers, with a sustainable filtration system that “minimizes energy use” while ensuring water remains in “crystal-clear condition.”

Few people come to London looking to spend time within the confines of a hotel room. When one plans a stay, location is the ultimate deciding factor. Sirens and revving engines might feel unavoidable during a city visit, but not at this property overlooking Hyde Park. At Four Seasons Hotel Park Lane, you have the best of both worlds: the coveted postcode is in the middle of the action, but you also experience the pinnacle of comfort. That’s what makes it a cut above the rest.

Why stay here?

The Four Seasons brand is synonymous with opulence. The property at Park Lane was honoured with the Forbes Travel Guide Five-Star Award for the 14th year in a row in 2026. What makes the property special is the unmatched attention to detail in every element.

The recently refurbished suites are a testament to the hotel’s commitment to subtle decadence. If you are someone who likes flamboyance, this may not be to your taste. The delicate design doesn’t risk overstimulation. Brought to life through a partnership with London-based studio Interiors with Art, the décor features pared-back Art Deco influences and a soothing colour palette.

With their wood panels, soft tones and carefully crafted furnishings, the suites create a more residential environment than most hotel dwellings. The Presidential Suite comes with an open dining area and a living room and, of course, an unmissable view of Hyde Park. My personal favourite touch was the in-room library, with a great collection of classics; I cosied up with “War and Peace” beside the fireplace.

There are also other suites to choose from, such as the Royal Terrace Suite with a spacious outdoor extension that’s perfect if you want to have visitors.

Eating and drinking

When it comes to holiday destinations, London has some of the most exciting restaurants to choose from. But the hotel provides a culinary experience so special that it should be on visitors’ bucket lists whether or not they are staying at the hotel.

The in-house restaurant Pavyllon London is a Michelin-starred establishment presided over by the world-famous chef Yannick Alléno. He holds a total of 18 Michelin stars across his 21 restaurants so it’s safe to say the man knows what he is doing.

As someone who isn’t a huge fan of French cuisine, I was sceptical going in. However, Alléno’s contemporary take on classic French dishes won me over. The bluefin tuna tartare with a hint of ginger and the red mullet with chermoula sauce were delightfully unique. If you’re a wine lover, the wine-pairing menu is a must-try as it has some of the most delicious French pours on offer.

This spring, the hotel’s cocktail bar, Bar Antoine, launched its own Savoir-Boire menu, a new collection of bespoke cocktails with some of the most intriguing ingredients you will come across.

If you love the classic martini, the bar’s signature Cornichon version is a must-try. The Fig Affair is a stunning concoction whose fruity freshness and umami finish will make you forget all other tequila cocktails.

If you want to impress someone, taking them for dinner at Pavyllon London followed by a nightcap at Bar Antoine will be a guaranteed hit. And let’s not forget the breakfast at Pavyllon. My order in the morning included “avocado croast”, a toasted croissant with guacamole, poached egg and rocket salad. The “ultimate French toast” was also delicious.

Things to do

Four Seasons elevates what the city has to offer by giving it a luxurious touch. If you have come to immerse yourself in the London art scene, the hotel has you covered. The property’s partnership with the Victoria & Albert Museum allows special access to its impressive line-up of exhibitions.

During my stay, I was given tickets to its mesmerising Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art. The bespoke pieces on display were carefully handpicked by passionate curators to tell Elsa Schiaparelli’s story. There are guided tours of the National Gallery and Tate Modern available and a long list of local world-renowned museums to choose from.

Other activities include a special walking city tour, family scavenger hunt and Mayfair wine and food tastings. And when you’ve had your fill of such diversions, the hotel’s rooftop spa is the ultimate place to recharge your body and mind. There are separate saunas for men and women, two vitality pools and dazzling views of Hyde Park. You may forget about the excitement of the city when you are up there but a simple lift ride will bring you back down into the thick of it.

The verdict

A relaxing yet exciting stay in the heart of Mayfair makes for an especially dreamy holiday. And with exceptional service and stunning design, this property deserves its stellar reputation. If you like quiet luxury that feels less like a hotel and more like a home, this is your place.

Deeya was a guest of Four Seasons Hotel London Park Lane.

Robot carers sound grim but Diane Morgan and her co-writer Sarah Kendall offer another, more “intriguing perspective” in their new BBC comedy, said Hannah J Davies in The Guardian. What if they were “incompetent and socially inept” but “also considerate, compassionate and lovable”?

This “wonderfully fresh and funny” show follows Sue (Sue Johnston), an elderly widow whose “whiny” son Michael (Paul Ready) has bought her a second-hand robot carer called Linda. It’s “not much of a spoiler” to reveal that Sue develops an “unlikely bond” with Linda (played by Morgan with a “perfect level of unblinking stiffness”).

Cleverly, “Ann Droid” is set in an “entirely normal suburban Britain”, where robots just happen to be helping out with the gardening or the supermarket shop, said Anita Singh in The Telegraph. “They don’t feel out of place.” As Sue’s friendship with Linda blossoms, the show unfurls into an “unexpectedly poignant sitcom” that looks at “the challenges of growing old”.

In its more “slapstick moments”, there are echoes of Morgan’s earlier show, “Mandy”, about a jobless woman’s bizarre money-making schemes, said Rebecca Nicholson in the Financial Times. Both shows revel in the “offbeat and surreal” but this one is “softer, less outrageous, more observational”.

Linda’s “bluntness” prevents the show from slipping into “sentimentality”. When she realises Sue is grieving her late husband, the robot must “research why it is that humans feel sad when someone dies” but her findings are “lightened” by the fact she can only call Sue’s partner “Dead David”. “This is a sly sitcom, then: silly on the outside but, when you look closer, smart and heartfelt.”

With her “terrible wig” and “strange head tilts”, Morgan plays Linda “uncannily well”, said Carol Midgley in The Times. Not much about the concept is new but, at its core, the show “isn’t really about robots”. Often more of a “sadcom than a sitcom”, it delves into the “profundity of grief”. But there are “plenty of funny moments”, too, as Linda “proves her worth” through a series of “escapades” that suggest having a robot carer might not be such a bad thing. “It is daft, but deceptively deep.”

Sam Neill’s chameleonic charm carried him across screens for five decades. Over 150 films and TV shows, the New Zealander played scoundrels as effortlessly as scientists, proving himself comfortable in supporting or starring roles, in blockbusters or indies. His dashing allure helped jump-start a new wave of Kiwi cinema with 1977’s Sleeping Dogs, yet he could also be terrifying, as in horror films Omen III (1981) and Event Horizon (1997). He won accolades as the jealous husband in The Piano (1993) and as a menacing cop in the BBC series Peaky Blinders. But his best-known role was Alan Grant, the awestruck, resourceful paleontologist in Jurassic Park (1993). Neill said he initially assumed the Steven Spielberg blockbuster wouldn’t do much for his career because the CGI dinosaurs would outshine the actors. Instead, the Oscar-winning film earned him global acclaim. “People just know me all around the world,” he said in 2013. “And they’ll start roaring like dinosaurs.”

Nigel John Dermot Neill—he started going by Sam in childhood— was born in Northern Ireland and raised in New Zealand, his father’s homeland. A stutterer as a child, he began acting at boarding school as a ploy to meet girls and found his speech impediment disappeared onstage. After studying at Wellington’s Victoria University, he landed his first TV part in 1971 and quickly became his country’s biggest acting talent of the day. Neill “combined a credible Everyman quality with rugged good looks and a hard-to-place accent,” said The New York Times, which allowed his roles to span continents and genres. His idol was the equally versatile James Mason, and it showed: “Critics praised him for nuanced performances even in forgettable projects.”

“Neill became a full-fledged movie star” after Jurassic Park, said Rolling Stone, but he made just as much impact with his “jovial persona.” During the Covid pandemic, he built a huge online following sharing videos of animals at his New Zealand vineyard, and himself singing and playing ukulele. Though constantly performing, he never considered himself a celebrity. He was consistently “self-deprecating and unpretentious,” said The Washington Post. “I’ve never had an image,” Neill said in 1995, “nor have I fostered one or wanted one, which has meant that I’ve had fantastic freedom to do whatever it is that appeals at the time.”

On 12 August, there will be a total solar eclipse over parts of Europe for the first time in almost 30 years. For a few moments, parts of Greenland, Iceland, Spain, Russia and Portugal will experience total darkness in daylight hours.

What is a total solar eclipse?

It happens when the Moon passes directly between the Sun and the Earth, completely blocking the Sun’s brightness and plunging “daylight momentarily into darkness”, said National Geographic. It’s a “rare” moment “when Nature switches off the Sun just enough for us to see what’s otherwise invisible”, European Space Agency astronomer Pedro García Lario told the publication.

The most recent total solar eclipse was in April 2024, covering parts of North America; the last time Europe saw one was in August 1999. This time, the “stripe of darkness” will fall on Greenland, Iceland, northern Russia, Spain, and a small area of Portugal, said The Independent. The UK and Ireland will experience a partial solar eclipse, losing sight of about 90% of the Sun.

How to watch the eclipse safely

Staring at the sun during a partial or solar eclipse may seem “enticing” but it can cause “irreversible damage to the retina” without the right eye protection, Lario told National Geographic. Regular sunglasses just “don’t cut it”; you need proper “eclipse glasses”, which are thousands of times darker than regular sunglasses. You can find them at specialty shops, opticians, science museums, and universities; be careful to look for the ISO 12312-2 certification as there are often counterfeit pairs around when an eclipse is due. If you’re observing the eclipse through binoculars, a camera or a telescope, make sure to fix solar filters.

Where and when to see the eclipse

The partial eclipse over the UK should be visible in Edinburgh and Glasgow at 6.08pm, in Manchester and Liverpool at 6.13pm, and in London, Cardiff, Bristol and Cornwall at about 6.15pm.

Valencia, Spain is on the path of totality. And, in the months leading up to the eclipse, the city has been putting together celestial experiences, lectures, and workshops at museums and cultural centres. Cruise lines travelling between mainland Spain and Mallorca, including Celebrity, Fred Olsen and Princess, are also offering “eclipse specials” and will “ensure their vessels are on the path of totality”, said The Independent.

If you’re lucky enough to be in Valencia, seek out an open location with a clear western horizon and minimal light pollution in the late evening, shortly before sunset. Some of the “best vantage points” will be rooftops, said National Geographic: places like the Grand Hotel Centenari and Luna de Valencia in Hotel Puerta Serranos are staging rooftop viewings, with cocktails and music to “complete the experience”.

Other Spanish towns in the path of totality include Oviedo, Leon, Burgos and Valladolid. Northern Russia will experience total darkness at midday, before it moves to Iceland and Greenland in the afternoon and evening.

The romance of Prague is enthralling, from its pretty winding lanes to its skyline of rising spires. Over the past few decades it has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe, with more than eight million visitors a year, and with its history and heritage it is easy to see why.

But at the same time, the Czech capital has grown into a sophisticated and refined luxury option for the discerning traveller, with world-class galleries and a dynamic food scene. Michelin recognised this with the Czech Republic’s first national guide in December 2025, including five Prague restaurants that have earned stars.

Things to do

The Prague Visitor Pass makes things easy, offering access to most of the city’s big sights as well as public transport (including a vintage tram). I started with a morning at Prague Castle, the largest castle complex in Europe, where you could probably spend days exploring.

After that head down the hill a little to the Baroque terraced Vrtba Garden, an oasis in the heart of the tourist area, or head further west to the Eiffel-inspired Petrin Tower, built in 1891, where you will find some of the best views of the city.

Of course, everyone wants to see the renowned Astronomical Clock of the Old Town Hall, but the crowds really are changing the experience. Head inside to the Old Town Hall Museum for a different perspective on it, but a great tip is to try the new Mozart Museum directly opposite. It not only has a fascinating interactive display on the composer and his connection to Prague, but also the best views of the clock.

The National Gallery is spread over several locations in the city, but my favourite was the Trade Fair Palace, which has a spectacular collection of works from Picasso, Monet and Van Gogh. Head to the Kunsthalle, which opened in 2022, or Dox, with its eyecatching airship shape, which hosts art, literature, performance and architecture.

Get on the water and explore the River Vltava with a boat trip. With Prague Boats, a two-hour trip takes you out into the suburbs for a leisurely journey through a different side of Prague. If time is tighter, the Prague Venice River Cruise lasts 45 minutes and takes you off the river and into the canals. It is also connected to the small but interesting Charles Bridge Museum.

Eating and drinking

If you’re going to splash out on one Michelin meal while you’re there then make it La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise. This fine dining restaurant is a little out of the centre and takes you away from the crowds. You can expect a seasonal multi-course tasting menu inspired by Czech cuisine and made with local ingredients.

The Vietnamese community is one of the largest immigrant populations in the Czech Republic, and therefore you can find some of the best pho this far west of Hanoi. But at Taro, a pair of first-generation Vietnamese-Czech brothers are taking things a step further with a tasting menu that merges the two cultures beautifully. Nothing feels expected, but you will leave with a smile on your face.

Hidden behind the tourist options across from the Astronomical Clock is Restaurant 420, a bright welcoming space that is packed with locals, with products are made in the basement bakery and butchery. Expect elevated Czech and central European classics like pork with Szegedin sauce or veal schnitzel.

Bjukitchen is a chic little cafe that’s a perfect stop on a busy day. Start the morning with a hearty brunch, like the scrambled eggs with pecorino, black pepper, and chives on freshly baked sourdough, or a grilled cheese with roasted pepper pesto, sun-dried tomatoes and basil pesto. Definitely don’t miss their home-made soft-serve ice cream.

Myšák is a pastry shop that dates back to 1911, and is still one of Prague’s favourites. Check out the original shop on Vodičkova Street, or one of the newer branches. The sweet buns with vanilla custard are a particular speciality, and the ice cream sundae has been a local staple for 80 years.

Le Petit Beefbar au Grand Cafe, in the W Hotel, serves some of the city’s best steaks in the timeless art nouveau setting of the former Grand Café. The fillet steak and the namesake Beefbar signature sauce were utterly divine.

Forbina, across from the National Theatre, offers delicious crafted cocktails inspired by its neighbour’s theatre productions. Bokovka has a wonderful courtyard to pause for a glass of wine, and U Kunštátů serves a wide selection of craft beers.

Where to stay

Following a stunning renovation, W Prague opened in December 2024 to much fanfare. It is a glorious example of how classic Prague Secession architecture can be modernised sympathetically and stylishly, and you can expect the signature W attention to detail throughout. There are 161 guestrooms and suites, some overlooking Wenceslas Square in the heart of the city, while the Above Rooftop has panoramic views and a menu that changes seasonally.

The Away Spa offers an escape from the urban bustle with a series of pools, jacuzzis, saunas and steam rooms. Try the all-season water journey, which takes you through warm and cold experiences and ends with a refreshing snow shower, or indulge in a treatment customised to your needs. I left feeling like a new woman.

Jaymi McCann was a guest of Czech Tourism, Prague City Tourism and W Prague

The Lake District has so much to offer beyond its “spectacular panoramic views”, said Condé Nast Traveller. Famed for its impressive lakes and rugged mountains, the Unesco World Heritage site also has a “fantastic culinary scene” and “activities galore” to keep the whole family entertained, come rain or shine.

Things to do

For some historical sightseeing, visit the “turreted grey knuckle” of Wray Castle, a masterclass in Victorian Gothic Revival architecture built in 1840, said Condé Nast Traveller. It is also worth visiting 17th-century Holker Hall, where the gardens are a mix of “manicured borders and lawns” and “untamed areas of wildflowers and woodlands”.

“William Wordsworth is the Lake District’s ‘literary leviathan’”, said Sean Newsom in The Times. He “transformed our appreciation of the natural world” with his poems, and by visiting his old home, Dove Cottage, you’ll “get a thrilling sense of his early, heroic years”. Next door, the Wordsworth Museum has handwritten journals and letters on display.

For a mix of history and nature, take a boat tour with Ullswater Steamers, which have been operating for over 160 years. Ullswater, England’s second-largest lake, is a must-see with a landscape of “rolling green hills”, “ancient woodland”, and “plunging crags”.

Thrill-seekers can try ghyll scrambling – a ghyll is a “short, sharp mountain gully cut by a thundering stream”. At Stoneycroft Ghyll, put on a wetsuit while you “scramble upstream”, then “abseil back down”, and then jump into the “deeps beneath the waterfalls”.

Eating and drinking

In the Lake District, it is “hard to go wrong with food”, said Condé Nast Traveller. Try the “deservedly famous” sticky toffee pudding in Cartmel or enjoy “seasonal deliciousness” with “exceptional views of Skiddaw” at Lingholm Kitchen in Keswick.

Cranstons Cumbrian Food Hall is a recently renovated butchery that is great for picking up a “huge variety” of locally sourced produce or enjoying sausage rolls, pies, meal boxes, and salad at the hot-food counter. The Lake District also has a number of Michelin-starred dining options including The Cottage in The Wood, above Keswick, and Forest Side in Grasmere, said The Telegraph.

Where to stay

If you want “indulgence with a capital I”, stay at the Gilpin Hotel & Lake House, just 10 minutes from Lake Windermere’s shore, said Helen Pickles in The Independent. This “modern country-house hotel” has a variety of room styles that ranges from the “lavishly cossetting” to stand-alone chalets with personal spas.

For a more family-friendly option, The Swan Hotel & Spa, at Windermere’s southern tip, is “away from the crowds” in a lovely “riverside setting”. It “ticks plenty of boxes” with a range of amenities including a spa, pool, gym, and adventure playground. The place “goes big on colour” with public areas decorated in “clashing pinks and hot oranges” or “dazzling floral wallpapers”.

This is the summer of “cerebral pursuits” in France, with “a big rise” in the sale of “holiday workbooks”, said The Times. With their “cahiers de vacances” – an adult spin-off from school revision guides – grown-ups are “brushing up on” algebra, history and grammar on the beach.

All grown up

Holiday workbooks were originally designed to help schoolchildren to keep up with their studies over the long summer break. But the new adult versions are a real hit: you only have scan bookshop shelves to see “the scale of the phenomenon”, said Aleteia. French adults are using the workbooks not only to “evoke childhood summers” but as an entertaining way to learn something new during the summer holidays.

Last year, over 650,000 holiday workbooks were sold – double the year before – and publishers are reporting even bigger sales this summer, said The Times. Among the most popular ones are “Les Maths en Vacances”, which has readers practising geometry by folding their beach towels, and “Énigmes de l’Histoire” which focuses on historical puzzles, such as the “mysterious fate of Louis XVII”, who disappeared after his parents were beheaded during the French Revolution. “Passeport Adultes Anglais” is all about improving your English – with a “notably challenging” section on making British “herb jelly”. There are also logical reasoning challenges, and police-investigation workbooks with “puzzles to solve” in a “Cluedo”-style format, said Instant.

‘Need to disconnect’

Adults want to buy these books because they allow them to “learn a lot while having fun”, Didier Ferat of workbook publisher Solar told Aleteia. The format is not “intimidating” and you can work through a book “alone or with others”, Carole Strang of leading workbook publisher Éditions Nathan told Instant. There’s a sense of nostalgia at play, too: everyone knows these workbooks from their schooldays. They are associated with a “pretty strong memories” of childhood “summers and holidays”.

They are also physical and “concrete”, allowing you to “move beyond the digital world”, said Ferat. There’s a new “appreciation” for offline activity. The “need to disconnect” from our mobile devices has people shifting to entertainment that requires “a pencil in the hand”.

The desire to disconnect with a nostalgic activity explains the associated boom in “kidult” colouring and sticker books, and an increasing passion for puzzles and crosswords. Dictionary publisher Robert has launched a new series of themed giant crossword books this summer. At a time when the “world of books is suffering”, Robert’s Charles Bimbenet told Instant, “this enthusiasm is welcome”.

Vinho verde, which translates literally to “green wine”, is northern Portugal’s gift to those looking for a light and refreshing tipple to enjoy in the scorching summer heat.

The wine takes its name from the lush, verdant Minho province where it is made. With its “ocean breezes”, “cool nights” and “high rainfall”, the “Atlantic maritime climate” provides the perfect environment for indigenous grapes to flourish, said Mina Holland in The Guardian. Many producers blend together several grape varieties, including the “aromatic loureiro, softening trajadura and arinto for acidity”.

The result is wine with a “vibrant” flavour and “notes of ripe lime and orchard fruits” that excels at “gluggability”. With their “high acidity, low ABV” and slight effervescence, these “young wines” are ideal for “summer frolics”. Despite the name, they “aren’t actually green”; as well as the Minho countryside, the “verde” also refers to the wines’ “inexperienced” and youthful character.

The northwest region “shot to fame” in the 1980s and its wines have been a “dinner party staple” ever since, said Sarah Neish in The Drinks Business. But now producers are entering a new era, with an “increased focus on premium single-varietal, and often single-vineyard” wines. With so much choice it can be tricky deciding where to begin, but here are three bottles worth trying.

Quinta do Ermízio Chin Chin Vinho Verde 2024

This is an “inarguably delicious and nattily labelled” wine, said Holland in The Guardian. It uses a “blend” of the traditional loureiro and trajadura grapes varieties and has notes of crisp green apples and tropical fruits. Chin Chin rose in popularity during the pandemic and gave way to “several dupes” but the original remains a “cult” favourite.

£13.99, Selfridges

Bowl Grabber 2024

Made primarily from alvarinho (also known as albariño) grapes, this refreshing vinho verde is “light, zesty and dangerously easy to drink”, said Will Lyons in The Times. Expect a gentle spritz and a “mouthwatering purity giving way to a long, saline finish”.

£9.50, Ocado

Casal de Ventozela Arinto Vinho Verde 2024

This “zippy” wine is made from the “lesser-known but interesting” arinto grape variety, said Susy Atkins in The Telegraph. The delicate notes of “yellow apples, pear and passion-fruit” pair nicely with “bitter salad leaves or baked fennel”.

£10.75, Majestic

Creole and Cajun food both hail from Louisiana, but only one was born in New Orleans. Rich and soulful, Creole cuisine emerged from the city’s kitchens during the 1700s, influenced by French, African, Indigenous, Spanish and Caribbean cooking styles.

Tomatoes, roux and the Holy Trinity of diced onions, celery and green bell peppers are the foundation for many a Creole dish. When you then add shrimp, crab, oysters, sausage and okra, the magic commences, and classics local dishes like gumbo, crawfish étouffée and red beans and rice spring to life. Ready for a taste? In New Orleans, no one does authentic Creole better than these eight treasured spots.

Clancy’s

Clancy’s is the “paradigmatic” Uptown New Orleans bistro, where the menu is “Paris-at-the-mouth-of-the-Mississippi,” said The New York Times. This was the “life project” of waiter turned longtime owner Brad Hollingsworth, who died in 2024, and is still owned by his wife and stepson. Executive Chef Jerry Harkins Jr. and his team have “mastered” both the French-Creole standards of turtle soup and shrimp remoulade and “idiosyncratic” specialties like fried oysters covered in melted Brie and Clancy’s smoked duck with dirty rice.

Dooky Chase’s Restaurant

Dooky Chase is not just a restaurant. A Tremé institution for more than 80 years, it opened during segregation and gave Black diners with few options a place to convene over a warm and comforting bowl of gumbo or crawfish étouffée.

Over time, Dooky Chase — and its talented late co-owner and chef, Leah Chase — gained a reputation for “specializing in the seasoned flavors of Black Creole culture,” said New Orleans Magazine. During the 1950s and ’60s, civil rights leaders like Martin Luther King Jr. and Thurgood Marshall sat down and strategized over the same dishes that Dooky Chase still serves today — shrimp Clemenceau, red beans and rice, oyster po’boys and Creole-seasoned fried chicken.

Galatoire’s 

At Galatoire’s, jackets are required, tank tops and flip flops are verboten and you must order an “impeccable Sazerac, soufflé potatoes and shrimp remoulade for the table,” said Bon Appétit. Founded in 1905, Galatoire’s is one of the most “elegant” restaurants in the country, with “tuxedoed waiters” who present with a flourish plates of shrimp Creole, crab ravigote and trout meunière amandine. End your meal in true New Orleans fashion with a cup of café brûlot, a spicy, alcoholic beverage that is — whoosh! — flambéed tableside.

Guy’s Po-Boys

New Orleans and po’boys “go hand in hand,” said Southern Living. The “simple, hearty” sandwich was created in the 1920s for striking railroad workers (“poor boys”) and requires bread with a crusty exterior and pillowy interior that can handle a protein like roast beef and fried oysters, plus all the fixins.

Guy’s excels at crafting the “classics,” such as golden fried shrimp and blackened catfish, as well as its own creations, like The Bomb, said Tasting Table. This “eclectic” po’boy brings together the shrimp and catfish that put Guy’s “on the map” along with melted Swiss and cheddar cheeses.

Li’l Dizzy’s Cafe

Plan accordingly for a visit to Li’l Dizzy’s Cafe. Only open for lunch, diners line up early for a seat at this “cherished” Tremé restaurant that’s “keeping Creole soul food alive,” said Mashed. The “deliciously juicy” fried chicken is regularly heralded as the best in New Orleans, and the gumbo is thick and luscious.

If you find yourself at Li’l Dizzy’s on a Friday, you’re in luck: The day’s special, catfish jourdain — fried catfish topped with shrimp and crabmeat in a lemon butter sauce — is a local favorite. You don’t have to be from the neighborhood to feel the love. The cafe’s owners “welcome everyone as if they’re family.”

Neyow’s Creole Cafe

Tanya Dubuclet was her grandmother’s faithful sidekick in the kitchen, and now those “secret recipes” she learned growing up are staples on the menu at Neyow’s Creole Cafe, said Essence. Favorites like the rich filé gumbo, crawfish balls, chargrilled oysters and carrot soufflé are all “cooked with love” and keep Dubuclet’s late grandmother’s “memory alive.” For a taste of pretty much everything, order the Neyow’s Extravaganza Dinner for two, featuring gumbo, stuffed crab, stuffed shrimp, steak, fish, two sides and two desserts.

Vaucresson’s Creole Café

When the steaming bowls of gumbo and plates of savory yakamein start coming out of the kitchen at Vaucresson’s Creole Café, “heads turn,” said NOLA.com. That’s because Chef Bunny Young’s style of “New Orleans home cooking” is “increasingly rare” to find at restaurants and always a welcome sight.

Vaucresson’s started decades ago as a butcher stall, evolving into a butcher shop and restaurant now operated by third-generation owner Vance Vaucresson and Julie Frederick Vaucresson. Try one of the restaurant’s famous sausages in a po’boy or the smothered okra plate, which is “every bit as much about the Creole sausage, crab and shrimp as the namesake vegetable.”

Vyoone’s

The “gratifying” French-Creole fare at Vyoone’s — escargot in bone marrow, “delicate” duck l’orange with mushroom bread pudding, les galettes de crabes — matches the cafe’s “warm ambiance,” said Resy. The French onion soup is “excellent,” as are the crawfish beignets and crevettes et gruau, a generous helping of large barbecue shrimp over grits, topped with bacon and smoked gouda. Vyoone’s, named after its founder Vyoone Segué, has an inviting indoor space, but dinner tastes even better when eaten outside in the “marvelous” courtyard.

By African standards, Malawi is a small country (a bit smaller than England, in fact), but with its diverse landscapes and vast lakes, it can offer a wide variety of experiences in a single safari holiday, says Ben Lerwill in National Geographic Traveller. For a gentle start, head to the Shire Highlands, in the southeast, where forested hills rise above 2,000 metres, and tea plantations have flourished for more than a century.

Among these estates is Satemwa, which was founded in 1923 and later became the first in Malawi to be Fairtrade-certified. Guests stay in a 1930s bungalow, Huntingdon House, with “roaring” log fires, clawed bathtubs, antique furniture and “luxuriant” plants in silver vases. Satemwa’s 3,700 acres are interspersed with swathes of mahogany woods that shelter creatures including antelopes, porcupines and more than 600 avian species, some of them spectacular, making birdwatching trips “a joy”. Coffee is also grown on the estate, but tea tastings are particularly delightful, with black, green, oolong and white varieties to sample, some of which are served at Claridge’s.

Next, you might visit Liwonde National Park, a 212-square-mile expanse of mopane woodland three hours to the north. Poaching once devastated the park, but in the past decade, 40,000 wire snares have been removed, and black rhinos, cheetahs, lions and wild dogs have been reintroduced. I stayed at Mvuu – one of just a few lodges here, with “spacious” tented chalets and “excellent” food – and went on wonderful game drives and walking safaris, spotting lions, elephants, hippos and other species.

The country’s true “marvel”, however, is Lake Malawi – one of the world’s largest and deepest lakes, home to at least 1,000 freshwater fish species (more than Europe and North America combined). I stayed at Pumulani Lodge, which has steps down to a beach. Kayaking along the wooded shore, I spotted fish eagles and hamerkops, and the snorkelling was dazzling.

With its “sorbet-coloured” hillside towns, the Amalfi Coast is one of Italy’s most beautiful places – but its high prices and traffic-clogged roads can be a pain. If you visit in the high season, you might do better to stay in Salerno, says Jessica Furseth in The Guardian, the “relaxed” port city just to its east. Restaurants and hotels there are much cheaper, there are regular ferries to places such as the town of Amalfi, and the city has attractions of its own, including a lively seaside promenade and an old town with an impressive medieval cathedral. It also sits on a main coastal rail line from Naples, offering quick, easy access to Pompeii (back towards Naples) and to Paestum (further south), with its ancient Greek tomb frescoes and temples of “golden” stone (“inexpressibly grand”, according to Shelley).

An idyllic escape from Melbourne

Set in the “gentle” hills of the Macedon Ranges, a 90-minute drive north of Melbourne, the little Australian town of Daylesford is “a hotbed of farm-led fabulousness”, much like the village in the Cotswolds after which it was named in the mid-19th century, says Sarah Turner in The Sunday Times. Daylesford has a great Sunday market and some “posh” boutiques, but is best known for Lake House, a hotel and restaurant that has driven the town’s evolution from “hippyish” to (appealingly) “haute” in recent decades. Run by Alla WolfTasker – now one of Australia’s most “revered” chefs – and her husband Allan, it offers wonderful five-course tasting menus for £130, which is a “fine-dining bargain” by Cotswolds standards. Stay if you can in one of its 33 hotel rooms, or at the “very luxurious” six-suite lodge set on its own farm, where kookaburras and cockatoos flit about the mineral-water-fed swimming pool.

A charming Victorian seaside resort

“The sweet, sensible sister of brassy Scarborough”, the Yorkshire seaside resort of Filey is “almost absurdly nice”, says Helen Pickles in The Daily Telegraph. Home to just 7,000 people, the town is “elegant” and quite unspoiled, with just one amusement arcade, a small “child-friendly” funfair, and no “flashy attractions” – and the five-mile beach it sits on is “gorgeous”. Recent years have seen the opening of a small gin distillery and the launch of a spring literary festival, but most of Filey’s shops and cafés are long-established. For instance, Sterchi’s Chocolatiers opened in 1916. Wherever you stay (the White Lodge Hotel is “the place for treats and celebrations”), don’t miss the town’s pretty boating lake, the Sunday concerts at the bandstand, or the RSPB’s Bempton Cliffs reserve, which is home to spectacular seabirds.

This dish felt like a permanent fixture on our menu during the late 1970s and early 1980s, says Rick Stein. I probably first had it in Paris, during one of our early trips, which would have been around 1978. When my then wife Jill and I were on holiday, we made a point of testing things out and picking up recipes and ideas for the kind of restaurant ours should aspire to be. When fish conservationists began discouraging people from fishing for skate, we discovered that ray was OK – so this dish was born.

Ingredients

• 4 skinned ray wings, about 225g each
• 15g nonpareilles capers in brine, drained and rinsed

For the court-bouillon

• 300ml dry white wine
• 85ml white wine vinegar
• 2 bay leaves
• 12 black peppercorns
• 1 onion, roughly chopped
• 2 carrots, roughly chopped
• 2 celery sticks, roughly chopped
• 1 tsp salt

For the black butter

• 175g butter
• 50ml red wine vinegar
• 1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

Method

• First, make the court-bouillon. Put all the ingredients into a large pan with 1.2 litres of water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Set aside to cool, which will allow the flavour to improve before using.
• Put the ray wings into a large pan. Pour over the court-bouillon, bring to the boil and simmer the wings very gently for 15 minutes until they are cooked through.
• Carefully lift the ray wings out of the pan, leave the excess liquid to drain off and then place the wings on to 4 warmed plates. Sprinkle with the capers and keep warm.
• For the black butter, melt the butter in a frying pan. As soon as it starts to foam, turn quite brown and smell very nutty, add the vinegar, then the parsley. Let it boil down for a minute or so, until slightly reduced. Pour the butter over the ray and serve.

Taken from “The Seafood Restaurant Cookbook” by Rick Stein and Jill Stein, published by Jon Croft Editions at £35. To buy from The Week Bookshop for £31.99 (incl. p&p), visit theweekbookshop.co.uk or call 020 3176 3835.

Pulling up at Son Xotano, after driving to the centre of rural Mallorca, feels a bit like arriving at a friend’s big place in the country that you have always been a little jealous of.

At the heart of this 12-century estate is a honey-hued manor, with pastel-blue wooden shutters and a sun-drenched terrace. A grand Mediterranean finca, it invites exploration.

In the grounds, a large pool is framed by striped sunloungers, cabanas and daybeds. The message to spend as much time as possible horizontal is a splendid idea. This is not a hotel for energetic daytime activities or rowdy nights at the bar. It is a place of calm, next to vineyards within a rural landscape where guests are encouraged to find a quiet corner, perhaps among the cypress trees or lavender, and slow right down.

Why stay here?

Son Xotano is one of the newest additions to the Annua Signature Hotels group founded by brothers Álvaro and Iñaki Sasiambarrena. Their philosophy is to create design-forward retreats across the Mediterranean, combining the natural surroundings and heritage of each property with high-end service and amenities.

It was on show from the start as we strolled up the path to check in to be greeted by a mass flutter of butterflies dancing around our ankles.

When choosing a place to stay, it is tempting to head to Mallorca’s dinking coastline, but head inland and the gentler pace is beguiling. And if you crave the beach or Palma’s twisty shopping streets, they are just a short, 25-minute drive away.

There are 22 rooms here, a variety of suites and doubles, with views of the gardens or countryside in the distance. Some come with their own private terrace or garden. There is no beige or grey palette here. Instead, our room was a delightful mix of soft creams and pastels, and on the wall behind the bed some specially commissioned artwork – a giant mural depicting trees and peacocks in vivid blues and greens.

All rooms come with air conditioning, coffee machine, safe, Wi-Fi, robes, slippers, Aesop products and a minibar. I needed to ask for a kettle and teabags, and there is no TV – but one can be wheeled in on request.

The shower was enormous. I popped my head into one of the bigger suites that had a free-standing bath, but one of the many delights of staying in such a unique building is that no two rooms are the same. All have the particular quirks – wooden beams or quaint tiny windows – of a centuries-old property.

Eating and drinking

Situated next to the pool and providing sustenance from early morning to late at night is the Son Xotano restaurant. Under the shade of olive and cypress trees, we started the day with breakfast – a huge buffet supplemented by table service. The fruit platters were a thing of beauty. As guests flop after a swim, lunch – from small plates to classics like salads and hamburgers – can be brought over.

In the evening the restaurant becomes the focal point of the hotel. As the sun sets tables are laid out on a terrace, or you can do as we did and choose a romantic table set apart among the trees. The menu features local, seasonal ingredients and is Mediterranean and Mallorcan with a contemporary approach. The porc negre loin had the crispiest skin and was delicious. Order a bottle of César wine – a lively dry white produced for the sister hotel in Lanzarote and only available through this collection of hotels.

Things to do

Yoga, massages, horse-riding and much more can all be arranged if you can drag yourself away from the pool. A car is definitely a good idea so you can explore nearby towns and beaches.

In Palma, wander the cobbled lanes of the Old Town and call in at the wondrous gothic cathedral. The island’s finest beaches are also within easy reach, from the sweeping white sands of Playa de Muro to the tranquil coves of Cala Tuent and Cala Deià, while the nearby Serra de Tramuntana offers some of Mallorca’s most scenic drives and hilltop villages, including Valldemossa and Deià.

Closer to the hotel, don’t miss the charming market town of Sineu or a wine tasting at one of the vineyards around Binissalem, Mallorca’s best-known wine region.

The verdict

If you are looking for an alternative to the coast and want to truly unwind, Son Xotano is a gem. Don’t expect a packed programme of activities – there isn’t even a gym.

You will, however, come away feeling relaxed and refreshed.

Jonathan was a guest of Son Xotano Hotel; annuahotels.com