The person behind a hotel can tell you a lot about what you will find within its walls. At Hotel Motto, that person is Bernd Schlacher – one of Austria’s top restaurateurs who ran a buzzy Viennese eatery for over two decades. So when he decided to set up his first hotel back in 2021, the city took notice.

Those who have visited his restaurant won’t be disappointed. Hotel Motto is far from what you will find at Vienna’s many palatial (and sometimes stuffy) hotels. Schlacher has firmly put his stamp on the property; it is set within a grand, manicured 17th-century building in the heart of the city, but the interiors are cosily lit and inviting, with bold contemporary artworks at every turn.

In the pretty tiled lobby beside the vintage brass lifts sits a bright pink papier-mâché sculpture that appears at first glance like a gigantic nose. It’s the first of many playful design details throughout the hotel and tells you something on arrival: this is a place to have some fun.

Why stay here?

If you’re looking for a luxury hotel that’s more laid-back than the city’s imperial spots, this is the place for you. Located in Vienna’s hip sixth district on Mariahilfer Straße, the crowd here tends to skew younger; the hotel is popular with trendy locals drawn to the lively bar and restaurant.

Local firm Arkan Zeytinoglu Architects took charge of the design. The beautiful Viennese architecture provides a majestic backdrop for the art deco-inspired interiors that evoke the glamour of 1920s Paris. A stunning spiral staircase winds up through the eight-storey building connecting the 91 rooms and suites.

Our generously sized suite made us feel instantly at home. The friendly receptionist gave us a warm welcome when we arrived at midnight on a chilly autumn evening; fresh pastries from the hotel’s organic bakery (more on that later) had been laid out for us in our room. Furnishings are eclectic and whimsical – from the upholstered walls decorated with birds and flowers to the plush velvety pink sofa, soft patterned rug, hazy mirrors and vintage tasselled lamps. The cocktail-making station and mini bar stocked with luxury chocolates and Viennese wafers adds to the fun.

There are more traditional elements too, like the big windows framed by white drapes that look out over the facades of the fancy 19th-century townhouses, and the mirrored marble bathroom with ceramic tiles. The Saint Charles Apothecary wildroot toiletries and powerful monsoon shower provide an invigorating start to the day.

Don’t waste any money on buying bottled water while you’re in Vienna; the tap water comes straight from mountain springs in the Austrian Alps and is famously crisp and clean. And if you need anything, the reception team is available to help around the clock on WhatsApp: when I messaged at 2am struggling to figure out the air cooling system, they wrote straight back and turned it off within minutes.

Eating and drinking

Chez Bernard is the hotel’s biggest draw. It was packed when we visited on a Friday night and we felt lucky to have a table. Located on the seventh floor of the hotel, with views out across Vienna’s rooftops, it’s moodily lit with trailing ferns hanging from the ceiling. The busy bar is surrounded by couples sipping cocktails and jazz music plays gently in the background.

The menu features classic French dishes done really well. My hearty pumpkin soup, served with a basket of delicious fresh bread, was the perfect start to the meal. The braised chicory with stracciatella, toasted pecans and segments of juicy orange was also a delight. We then dived into the mains: chateaubriand with a rich peppercorn sauce and beautifully prepared tenderstem broccoli, and meaty fillet of grilled monkfish with shallots and wilted spinach.

Make sure you save space for dessert: the fluffy chocolate soufflé with vanilla ice cream is well worth the 15-minute wait but the real stand-out was the pumpkin mille-feuille – delicate shards of pastry sandwiched together with pumpkin spiced Chantilly cream and dotted with sugared pumpkin seeds. It reminded me of a very posh pumpkin spiced latte in the best possible way. After dinner you can bring your drink outside to the rooftop bar to gaze out at the city’s twinkling lights.

Breakfast is served in Chez Bernard. As well as pastries (another welcome reminder of the bakery downstairs), there is an extensive drinks list spanning fresh smoothies, ginger and turmeric shots, fancy teas and homemade lemonades. Classic sweet and savoury dishes like crepes and scrambled eggs on toast are served alongside green shakshuka, home-pickled salmon and Austrian brioche with homemade nougat cream.

Things to do

Hotel Motto is not just a base for exploring the city – the rooms are so comfortable you might be tempted not to leave them. There’s also a sauna and small steam room (open from 4–11pm) and a fitness room kitted out with weights and yoga mats.

When you do venture outside, be sure to stop by at Motto Brot – the hotel’s bakery next door – for a pistachio-stuffed croissant or chocolate eclair. The sandwich we shared was so delicious we devoured it in the street and went straight back for another.

The hotel is located on one of Vienna’s most famous shopping boulevards and there are plenty of restaurants, cinemas and cafes nearby. But the side streets are where you’ll find the nicest spots; I left my partner in one of the many record shops (the famous shop from “Before Sunrise” is just around the corner from the hotel) and settled in Cafe Glas – a glass-roofed coffee shop that sells speciality coffee and cardamom buns in Raimundhof courtyard. It’s a great spot for people-watching and the staff are charming.

If you don’t want to leave Vienna without trying some traditional Austrian cooking, head to Schlawiener Wirtshaus, which is just a 15-minute walk from the hotel. This is a special spot – set inside a cosy, vaulted brick building. It’s one of the best places in the city to try an authentic Wiener schnitzel (don’t forget to order the cranberry sauce). Classic comfort food (cabbage pasta, anyone?) is served alongside dishes with an Asian twist. You won’t regret ordering a bowl of the crispy spicy oyster mushrooms.

The verdict

Hotel Motto is a place where you can really unwind. If you’re tired of pared back hotels where everything is a slightly different shade of beige or grey, this will feel like a welcome change. Playful, cosy and above all fun, it’s a hotel you’ll be drawn back to whenever you return to Vienna.

Irenie was a guest of Hotel Motto, hotelmotto.at

Indoor swimming pools have their place, but there’s something about diving into warm water as the world around you freezes that is hard to beat. Many heated pools and lidos shut over the winter but some stay open all year round, even when the temperature drops. Here are some of our favourite spots across the country.

Portavadie, Argyll

Situated on the banks of Loch Fyne on Scotland’s west coast, Portavadie is home to what is thought to be the biggest heated outdoor infinity pool in the country, said Rachel Dixon in The Guardian. While relaxing in the tranquil waters, you have views over the loch to the Isle of Arran, and once you get out, there is a restaurant, bar and a leisure centre to keep you occupied. For £14, you have access to swimming, sauna and hot tub facilities for 90 minutes.
portavadie.com

London Fields Lido

This is a real “bobby dazzler” of a spot in east London, said Vaishnavi Pandey on Secret London. The lido itself is a “whopping” 50 metres long, and heated at a “balmy” 25C all year round – perfect for a winter dip, even when there’s frost about. It usually opens until 9pm, and is floodlit for late-night swims after work or at the weekend – we recommend an afternoon slot. And it’s a “perfect”way to follow a picnic in the neighbouring park.
better.org.uk

Wycombe Rye Lido, Buckinghamshire

The Buckinghamshire lido has been a “firm local favourite” since it opened in 1957, said Grace Dawes on Time Out. And since a big refurbishment 15 years ago, “it’s become even better”. There are two heated pools – one for adults and one for children – and a gym with exercise classes on offer, indoor cycling, football and tennis too, not to mention a cafe where you can “unwind after all of the fun”. And this is not just a winter special; the warm waters are available all year round, so “come rain or shine, you can take a quick dip whenever you please”.
better.org.uk

Bristol Lido

This Grade II-listed facility originally opened more than 170 years ago. Lower chlorine levels and the warming 20–24C are among the attractions. But there is also a glass-fronted restaurant and cafe surrounding the lido, which is the “perfect spot for watching swimmers with a glass of wine”, said BBC Countryfile. Pair the experience with a trip to the sauna, before “enjoying brunch, lunch or tapas or a treatment in the lovely spa”.
lidobristol.com

We have spent many summers in the Swiss mountains with our three young children. The combination of clean air, outdoor life and pleasantly cool weather is hard to beat. Yet we had never had the chance to visit St Moritz. So when the opportunity arose to spend 24 hours at Badrutt’s Palace – the grande dame at the heart of the resort – we jumped at it.

For all its scale – the site extends over roughly six acres – one of the Palace’s charms is how intimate and woven into St Moritz’s town centre it feels. Walk along Via Serlas and the high-end boutiques suddenly give way to the hotel’s recessed driveway. Vintage Rolls-Royces wait beside the revolving door as immaculately liveried staff quietly choreograph guests’ comings and goings.

Opened in 1896 by Caspar Badrutt, the hotel has long been a playground for the glitterati; Coco Chanel, Audrey Hepburn and Alfred Hitchcock – who even has a suite named after him – were all regulars. As we were whisked to a table in the gardens overlooking the glittering lake on a warm August afternoon, a glass of Ruinart and a plate of petits fours felt like a fitting start to what would prove to be a stay where we felt wonderfully spoilt.

Why stay here?

As tempting as it was to stay put beside the lake, it was time to head to our room in the Serlas Wing. This 25-room-and-suite addition is across Via Serlas from the main Palace and is reached by a private underground walkway, which also conveniently connects guests directly to the luxury shopping on the street above.

Where the main building revels in Belle Époque grandeur, the Serlas Wing is calm and contemporary: dark oak, natural stone, Loro Piana fabrics and floor-to-ceiling windows. Our room felt beautifully considered rather than ostentatious, with an exceptionally comfortable bed, crisp white linen and a superb bathroom complete with a decidedly modern Japanese high-tech toilet.

Despite its scale, you never feel like just another room number. Hundreds of staff work across the hotel during the summer season, which perhaps explains the extraordinary level of attention. Badrutt’s was also named winner of The World’s 50 Best Hotels’ Art of Hospitality Award in 2026 – an accolade that felt entirely justified after our stay.

Grand hotels can often feel daunting with small children in tow, but Badrutt confidently avoids that trap. The classical service is warm rather than stuffy, and our children were greeted just as enthusiastically as we were.

Eating and drinking

You would need much longer than 24 hours to work through the dining options. Six restaurants operate during the summer season, ranging from Mediterranean cooking at La Diala and French cuisine at Le Relais to Swiss dishes at Patrizier Stuben and Pizzeria Heuboden in the historic Chesa Veglia. Then there is Le Grand Hall, the hotel’s famously glamorous “living room of St Moritz”.

Our first lunch, however, was at Paradiso, Badrutt’s mountainside restaurant high above St Moritz. We climbed into one of the hotel’s vintage Rolls-Royces – one in the Palace fleet was previously owned by Queen Elizabeth II – and were chauffeur-driven to the chairlift. The children were spellbound, as were we. The smell of old leather and engine oil, the heavy doors and the view of St Moritz slipping past the windows only added to the sense of occasion.

From the top of the lift it is a gently undulating 10-minute walk to Paradiso, whose south-facing terrace enjoys an uninterrupted panorama across the Engadin mountains. The restaurant majors on Alpine comfort food alongside more international favourites, while its extensive cellar runs to more than 500 wines. After cycling over the Flüela Pass that morning, I needed little persuading to settle in for a long lunch in the sun.

That evening we ate Italian food at Chesa Veglia before retreating to Le Grand Hall for a cocktail. Our children were far too excited to sleep, so joined us for extravagant hot chocolates instead. They weren’t exactly on their best behaviour, but nobody – guests or staff – seemed remotely bothered. It summed up rather neatly how Badrutt’s manages to feel grand without ever becoming stiff.

Breakfast is my favourite meal of the day, and Badrutt’s lived up to expectations. It is served in Le Restaurant, a soaring Belle Époque dining room with vast windows overlooking Lake St Moritz and the mountains beyond. Live harp music plays as you work your way around an enormous buffet, supplemented by an à la carte menu and a dedicated children’s section.

Children are also catered for with a small play area tucked discreetly in the corner, to which ours disappeared, affording us the rare luxury of finishing our coffees in peace.

Things to do

Our summery stay continued when, after lunch, we returned to the hotel to find four e-bikes waiting outside, two equipped with children’s trailers. Around 15 minutes later we were at Lej da Staz, a small bathing lake hidden among the trees.

We parked the bikes, stripped down to our swimwear and jumped from the wooden jetty into the bracingly cold Alpine water. We changed afterwards in the surprisingly well-equipped public changing cabins before riding back to the hotel.

For a longer stay, hiking and cycling routes spread out across the Engadin directly from St Moritz, while sailing and paddleboarding can be arranged on the surrounding lakes. Back at the hotel there are also tennis and padel courts.

Palace Wellness is similarly substantial, with a 25-metre indoor infinity pool and a heated outdoor pool overlooking the lake and mountains. Completely redesigned in 2024, the outdoor pool is now the largest in St Moritz. Our children loved the jets and bubbles and would happily have remained there for the afternoon.

My 50-minute T-Shape 2 treatment was considerably more high-tech than a traditional massage, combining low-level laser therapy and bipolar radiofrequency with vacuum and deep mechanical massage. Designed to aid circulation, lymphatic flow and muscle recovery as well as offering more cosmetic benefits, it felt particularly welcome after several hours on the bike the previous day.

Crucially for parents, Palazzino Kids Club is complimentary for hotel guests aged three to 12. Our children usually tolerate kids’ clubs rather than embrace them; here, when we returned to collect them a few hours later, we found them still busily absorbed in activities and playing. They did not want to leave, which is about the strongest endorsement I can give.

Older children have the Palace Arcade next door, a separate hangout packed with games consoles and arcade machines.

The verdict

We arrived half-expecting Badrutt’s Palace to feel vast and impersonal: a grand old hotel trading a little too heavily on its history, with the formality and tired interiors that can sometimes accompany this level of heritage. We could not have been more wrong.

There is certainly no shortage of grandeur, but underneath it is a hotel that feels warm, remarkably unstuffy and, perhaps most surprisingly, enormous fun.

Summer seems to soften St Moritz without sacrificing any of its glamour. You can spend the morning cycling through forests, swim in an Alpine lake in the afternoon and still be drinking a perfectly made cocktail beneath a carved Belle Époque ceiling that evening. More importantly for us, Badrutt’s combines old-world polish with a genuinely relaxed attitude to families.

After years spent on the other side of the Flüela Pass, we had finally discovered a different side of St Moritz. Twenty-four hours wasn’t nearly long enough; next time, we’ll be staying longer.

Fergus was a guest of Badrutt’s Palace; badruttspalace.com

One of Britain’s biggest unions has called for a blanket ban on problem airline passengers, after a survey of members revealed the majority of aviation workers had suffered some kind of abuse.

Unite found that 72% of ground staff, including those working as security, ground handlers or customer service agents, and 71% of cabin crew receive verbal abuse at least monthly. Just under a third of ground staff and 42% of cabin crew reported being physically assaulted.

According to the UK Civil Aviation Authority, the number of serious disruptive passenger incidents has more than doubled since the pandemic, with more than 1,000 reported last year.

Booze and bad behaviour

While flight delays, cancellations and baggage issues contribute to disruptive behaviour, by far the biggest factor is alcohol. In the Unite survey, 95% of cabin crew and 55% of ground staff said intoxication was the biggest trigger for abuse.

Being drunk on a plane is a criminal offence, punishable by a fine of up to £5,000 and two years’ imprisonment. But earlier this year Ryanair boss, Michael O’Leary, told The Times the airline was having to divert almost one aircraft a day because of drunken and aggressive behaviour by passengers, and called for morning drinking at airports to be banned. “Until somebody creates an accident that causes a plane to crash and kills hundreds, no government will take this problem seriously and airlines are tearing their hair out,” he said.

Under current data protection rules, airlines are prohibited from sharing passenger details with each other, meaning someone banned from a flight or airline can easily book with another carrier.

However, the Department for Transport set out plans this summer to create a national database of disruptive passengers, which would be co-operatively managed by the government and the airline industry. This would alert airline staff to passengers with a history of abuse, and they could then decide whether to let them fly or not. Repeat offenders could be banned for life from all airlines operating out of the UK.

‘Alarm bells’

The proposal is broadly welcomed by airlines, airport staff and the public, with three-quarters of 5,000 UK adults surveyed by YouGov supporting the database’s creation. However, civil liberties campaigner Josie Appleton, of the Campaign for Freedom in Everyday Life, said the proposal “should ring alarm bells”.

She told LBC the plan “sets a dangerous precedent of government working with private companies to bar people’s access to transport and services” and warned of the potential for “blacklists in other areas”, asking “who decides who goes on the list, what is the benchmark, and how long would they be on the list for?”

The US has been seeking its own version of a “no-fly” database for years “without success”, said Christopher Elliott, founder of consumer watchdog Elliott Advocacy. The Protection from Abusive Passengers Act would bar passengers fined or convicted for assaulting or intimidating crew or other travellers. Yet despite putting safeguards in place, including linking a listing to a fine or a conviction, and building in an appeal and a process for removing people added in error, the bill has repeatedly failed to be passed by Congress.

When it comes to cultural city breaks, there are few places more iconic than Barcelona.

The Catalan capital has been a popular destination for decades, and with good reason. Sitting just south of the glorious Costa Brava, it provides the perfect mixture of urban fun and beach break, with around 300 sunny days per year and almost three miles of golden sand and warm Mediterranean waters.

But visitors can also expect an unrivalled food scene, a thriving nightlife, world-class museums, unique architecture and a medieval old town that entices you to just keep wandering. So, perhaps it’s time to brush up on your Catalan, pack the sun cream, and head to the Spanish coast for some well deserved fun in the sun.

Things to do

First things first, this is a must-see. After 144 years of construction, architect Antoni Gaudí’s masterpiece, the Sagrada Familia, was inaugurated this summer after the final piece of the Tower of Jesus Christ was installed in February.

It still isn’t completely finished but nonetheless this church is the spiritual heart of Barcelona, a monument to the creativity and ambition of a historic city. As such, it gets very busy and it is best appreciated with a tour guide to explain Gaudí’s vision and point out the little details that make it special. We used Get Your Guide, which meant we had speedy entry as well as a local expert who helped us appreciate its significance. This also had a boat trip included, a lovely way to cool off after a day walking Barcelona’s lanes.

If you’re feeling inspired by Gaudí, take a 30-minute walk through the Eixample district from the Sagrada Familia and you will find the Casa Batlló, known as the house of bones, and Casa Milà, with its surreal undulating exterior. Further afield is Park Güell, a complex of gardens featuring Gaudí’s signature architectural details and colours.

Back in the centre, wander from the Plaça de Catalunya down the famous La Rambla boulevard, under construction at the moment, towards the Gothic Quarter. Here you will find the 700-year-old Catedral de Barcelona, the Basílica de Santa Maria del Pi and several squares, including the Plaça Real and the Plaça de Sant Jaume, where city hall sits.

Views and more can be found at Montjuïc, a park on a hill that you can either walk up to, take public transport or ride the cable car. There is lots to discover, from a 17th-century military fortress to the almost 100-year-old Magic Fountains.

Barcelona is a creative city and art lovers won’t want to miss the Picasso Museum, the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya, Fundació Joan Miró or the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona.

Try the Palau de la Música Catalana, L'Auditori or Gran Teatre del Liceu for concerts of international significance, while you can find flamenco in venues like Los Tarantos and Tablao Flamenco Cordobes.

Football fans may also fancy a pilgrimage to Barcelona’s famous Camp Nou stadium.

Eating and drinking

Mercat de Boqueria is the most famous food market in Barcelona, but you can also find fresh produce at Mercat de Santa Caterina, while Mercat de Sant Antoni and Mercat Ninot are popular with locals.

There are so many tapas bars, you won’t struggle to find one, but Bar Nuri in the Poblenou district stands out for its high quality. Bar Cañete also specialises in local dishes you won’t find elsewhere, and Ca l’Agut serves traditional Catalan food.

La Pajarera sky lounge in the Bless Barcelona overlooks Plaça de Catalunya down towards the sea, and has some of the best sunset views in the city. The menu is small but delicious, with sandwiches, ceviche and a peach and walnut salad that is to die for.

Fauna in the Kimpton Vividora offers something new again. Day-to-day the menu focuses on Mediterranean ingredients like Iberian ham or mató cheese, but they also do residences with local eateries and up-and-coming chefs, such as a recent collaboration with restaurant Jugoria that proved hugely popular with local foodies.

Where to stay

Bless Barcelona is the city’s latest opening. Situated on Plaça de Catalunya, it couldn’t be better located for exploring the city centre or getting out to other districts. There are 119 rooms and suites, many of which have views down La Rambla towards the Med, all designed in sophisticated neutrals with luxury touches like Diptyque products, a sparkling wine on arrival, and fluffy robes.

The rooftop pool, complete with the aforementioned views, is perfect for relaxing after a busy day on your feet. An extensive breakfast buffet is served in SINEDIE alongside a la carte options such as eggs royale.

Jaymi McCann was a guest of Bless Barcelona, Fauna and Get Your Guide

Christmas market cruises are a great way to capture the festive spirit while seeing the world. Ships become a “moving base while Europe does the costume change” as “ordinary streets” are transformed into “Advent villages strung with lights”, said Dayvee Sutton on Yahoo.

Belgium and the Netherlands

Ditch the hassle of airports for a no-fly “bargain break” with Ambassador, said The Sunday Times, visiting the Christmas markets of both the Netherlands and Belgium. On the four-night trip from London Tilbury, the first stop is Bruges, where you can enjoy the “sparkles” of the Winter Glow festival. This is followed by Rotterdam where you’ll stop at the Markthal – home to “foodie gifts” ideal for the season, as well as a wide range of live entertainment.

Prices from £669pp, full board, including tips

France, Germany and the Czech Republic

This bumper trip with Viking visits three countries, two rivers and a host of Christmas markets across 11 days. Starting in Paris, the ship moves on to Reims before passengers get to experience the “colourful stalls” of Mainz and Bamberg, said The Independent, complete with the “scent of spiced gingerbread”. The cruise ends up in “pretty Prague”, with two days to explore the Czech capital.

Prices from £3,795pp, flights and transfers included

Hungary, Slovakia and Austria

Sailing on a round-trip from Budapest, a five-night cruise with Riviera Travel offers the ideal mini-break for those keen to soak up the “festive feeling”, said Travel Weekly. A highlight is the stop at the Slovak capital of Bratislava, where it is just a “quick hop and skip over the road” to the city’s main square and festive market. Moving on to Vienna, travellers can celebrate the “city of music” on board with a classical recital, while ashore, there are plenty of stalls to pick up Christmas treats.

Prices from £1,699 including flights, transfers, Wi-Fi, lunchtime drinks and unlimited drinks after 6pm

Portugal and Spain

While the Douro river may not be the “obvious choice” for a Christmas cruise, there is plenty to explore within this region, and it is ideal for those who want the festive experience “without the crowds”, said The Sunday Times. Aboard the Avalon Alegria, this seven-night cruise is a true celebration of Portuguese traditions from “vinho verde and olive oil” to the must-try port made famous here. Guests will have the chance to “make traditional Christmas decorations” on board, and, after crossing the border into Spain, the “ancient city” of Salamanca awaits, with tasting opportunities from nougat to tasty Iberian cured hams at the Old Cathedral Christmas market.

Prices from £2,433pp, including drinks with meals, happy hour and excursions

Everyone is familiar with big-hitting Caribbean destinations like Jamaica and Barbados. But the 32-island archipelago of St Vincent and the Grenadines is far less famous. What it lacks in visibility, though, it makes up for in vibrant charisma.

St Vincent is the main volcanic island of the group. Far from the hustle and bustle of better-known destinations in the West Indies, it’s a green and extremely pleasant land with a peaceful beauty.

What to see

The first three “Pirates of the Caribbean” films were shot on St Vincent. The lovely Wallilabou Bay near Barrouallie on the west coast of the island doubled as the films’ central location, Port Royal, and is a rough and ready but highly evocative shrine to the much-loved films. It appeared in the very first scene in which Captain Jack Sparrow (Johnny Depp) sails in his leaky ship past the grim spectacle of three deceased brigands strung up on a rock arch in the bay next to a placard declaring: “Pirates, be ye warned.”

The seafront is packed with props from the movies including Captain Jack’s smashed-up ship, the wreckage of the Black Pearl and a grisly noose, a fearsome line of cannons, a pillbox-shaped dungeon where brigands were locked up and several enormous skeletons wearing ragged corsairs’ outfits.

At the small Pirates of the Caribbean Museum, you can try on battered tricorn hats and dusty coats to conjure up the ghost of Captain Jack. If you really want to summon up the outlaw spirit, you can even buy a bottle of Sparrow’s Premium Rum from the local shop.

It’s also well worth visiting Layou Petroglyph Park. The centrepiece of the archaeological site is a massive rock which is more than 20 feet long and features an intriguing engraving of a powerful being. Occupying a calm spot beside the Rutland River, the petroglyph is thought to have been carved about 1,700 years ago by the Arawak people. At its heart is a figure shaped like a mountain which is believed to be the god Yúcahu. He is apparently surrounded by cascading lava. This deity may reflect the neighbouring La Soufrière volcano, which still erupts with alarming frequency.

But this is merely speculation. The pleasure in this petroglyph lies in the fact that it prompts endless guessing games. We will never truly know what it portrays – making it all the more rewarding.

Where to stay

Situated on Buccament Bay on the southwestern coast of St Vincent, Sandals St Vincent has 301 rooms, but it never feels crowded. Ringed by an imposing chain of mountains, it fans out over a spacious 50 acres.

There is an absurd amount on offer for guests here. You can try everything from swimming in one of the resort’s five pools (including the longest in the Caribbean) to kayaking into a nearby bat cave. Sandals has free bikes to borrow, from the many racks dotted around the property. These enable you to explore the furthest corners of the site, much of which is festooned with gloriously flourishing bougainvillea.

But “liming” – a local word for “relaxing” – is an equally enticing prospect. It is an often-irresistible temptation to spend a whole day in our enviably luxurious beachside villa with a private pool. We are lucky enough to enjoy the services of a butler – I know, I know – who ministers to our every need. His superpower is knowing exactly what we’ll want next. That's why, when we show up every morning at the gorgeous beach, he has already laid out towels on loungers and left us a cool-box overflowing with our drinks of choice. You could very happily spend two weeks at Sandals St Vincent and the Grenadines without ever setting foot outside it.

The selection of food on offer at Sandals – every cuisine under the sun served at 12 restaurants – is just as dazzling. Having sampled the delights at Japanese, Italian, steak and seafood restaurants, we alight on the best of all. Buccan is authentically Vincentian, providing family-style dining. The local food, enlivened by a blend of 22 herbs and spices, is prepared over a firepit and brought to the table in clay pots. Traditional dishes such as callaloo soup, saltfish buljol and roasted breadfruit sing with flavour.

The verdict

St Vincent possesses an unexplored, get-away-from-it-all tranquillity that many more boisterous Caribbean islands would sell their last rum punch for. As Quincy, our very knowledgeable driver, puts it, St Vincent is a place “free from traffic, noise and stress, where you can free your mind.”

James Rampton was a guest of Sandals St Vincent and the Grenadines; sandals.co.uk

The idea was irresistible: sell up, move on to a luxury cruise ship and spend the rest of your life seeing the world.

But for some of the passengers aboard Villa Vie Odyssey, the dream of permanent escape has hit a very earthly obstacle: an “extraordinary” rise in the cost of fuel, said Euronews. It means an epic voyage has now been brought to an abrupt halt in Cambodia. And the instruction for those on board is to “abandon ship” altogether.

Dream runs aground

The ship set sail from Belfast in October 2024, but not before a series of delays that cost the company millions of pounds and left passengers stuck for months.

US-based operator Villa Vie Residences offered a “never-ending cruise around the world with stops at more than 400 ports of call and a global circumnavigation every three-and-a-half years”, said Business Insider. “Permanent residences” were available from $120,000 (£90,000), while some cabins were rented from $3,500 (£2,600) a month.

Then came the fuel crisis. With the oil “chokepoint” of the Strait of Hormuz cut off due to the Iran war, energy prices were sent “soaring around the world”. While the company had budgeted for monthly fuel expenses of $1,800 per cabin, this skyrocketed by “as much as 344%” to around $6,000 to $8,000.

“Nobody that’s tried residential cruising has succeeded, and we’ve gone further than anyone else,” Mikael Petterson, Villa Vie’s founder and executive chairman, told BI . “But I think we would have been absolutely fine – and we would have seen this through – if there was no Iran war.”

Lynn Montoya, from Wyoming, who was travelling with her husband Paul, was less sure. She said residents on board the cruise ship were repeatedly asked to contribute additional money for fuel and other expenses, including a call to raise funds for fuel to leave Cambodia. “We were tired of every two to four weeks being asked for money for fuel, money for everything,” she told The Associated Press. “We had hopes, but they just kept sinking further and further into the hole through mismanagement.”

Lanette Canen and Johan Bodin told the BBC they felt “heartbroken” that their “dream had been crushed”. Yet, they said, the experience was “worth it”. “We loved our two years on Odyssey – the adventures, the places we visited and the friends we made along the way.”

Uncertain future

Villa Vie announced that the Odyssey was suspending operations while it was docked this week at the port of Sihanoukville in Cambodia.

The company said it was working with passengers on disembarkation plans and “temporary living arrangements”. Villa Vie will focus on “restructuring and recapitalisation over the next 60 days”, said The New York Times. “No outcome is assured,” it said, and the ship could “eventually be sold” to settle outstanding costs.

One passenger, Holly Hennessey, told the BBC she is prepared to wait. “Until they say we are done – done done – I am not giving up. I could never duplicate this lifestyle. The idea of going home? It would be so trite.”

The smallest of Japan’s four major islands, Shikoku – located in the relatively warm south – is known for its “lush” mountains, dramatic gorges and slow pace of life.

For anyone looking to discover a quieter side of the country, it’s a wonderful option, says Laura Moser in Travel + Leisure, offering great food and some “dazzling” cultural sites too. You can reach it by rail from Tokyo and then crossing bridges between smaller islands in the Seto Inland Sea, the narrow arm of the Pacific that separates Shikoku from Japan’s main island, Honshu. On my trip, I took the sleeper from Tokyo Station to Takamatsu, Shikoku’s second city, on its northeast coast.

Takamatsu’s main claim to fame is the “meticulously landscaped”, 400-year-old Ritsurin Garden, where I took a ride on a wasen, a traditional flat-bottomed boat like a Venetian gondola, to glide under bridges, and watched masters of niwaki – the art of sculpting garden trees – “work their magic from high ladders”. But there are other notable sights nearby, including the Kanamaruza, Japan’s oldest kabuki theatre, built in 1835, with woven bamboo ceilings, paper lanterns and a separate entrance for samurai.

Several nearby islands have also gained reputations as “art-and-design” destinations in recent years. The best known is Naoshima, renowned for its world-class art museums and outdoor sculptures, but Megijima, “tiny, mountainous” Ogijima and others all offer their own attractions.

I also visited the southern city of Kochi, home to a spectacular 18th-century castle and a superb food market (a good place to try the local speciality: flame-seared bonito with wasabi and sliced garlic). And I explored parts of the island’s wild, mountainous interior, including the “remote, otherworldly” Iya Valley, with its “mind-blowing” vine bridges, dating back to the 12th century, which are now re-woven every three years. I stayed in a lovely hotel, the Iyaonsen, which lies in a valley and has a riverside hot-spring pool from which you can watch the “shifting” mists drift up the wooded hillside opposite.

Cat-sized Australian marsupials that look to have an ever-present grin, quokkas are among the internet’s favourite “goofy furballs”, said Mike Atkins in The Times. For the best chance of seeing them in the wild, head to Rottnest Island, which is home to 80% of their global population.

Just 30 minutes by ferry from Fremantle, in Perth’s southern suburbs, this seven-square-mile island was even named after the creatures (“rottnest” means “rat’s nest” in Dutch – a 17th-century sea captain’s taxonomic error). But there are other reasons to visit, too, including its 63 “knockout” beaches, “jagged” limestone sea cliffs, lovely cycling trails, and pleasant places to stay (I chose a “glamping eco-resort”, Discovery Rottnest Island).

Rotto (as the locals call it) is a place of “rugged glory”, and Fremantle is also worth an extended stay en route. It has a “bohemian, laid-back” vibe and a beautiful centre, full of Victorian buildings with “intricate” wrought-iron balconies.

The quiet days of autumn in Alghero

With its own international airport and a fine old town commanding “dress-circle views of the Med”, the little city of Alghero in northwest Sardinia is a great place for a short break in autumn, said Kerry Walker in The Telegraph.

At this time of year, its “tangle of alleys and cobbled piazzas” is far less crowded than in summer, as are “outstanding” local restaurants such as Musciora and La Saletta (Algheresi cuisine is among the most distinctive in Sardinia, thanks partly to the strong Catalan influence that is a legacy of the island’s near-four centuries of Spanish rule).

And there’s much to explore beyond the city’s “whopping”, honey-coloured ramparts, including nearby white-sand beaches, the “colossal” Grotta di Nettuno sea caves, and the Porto Conte Regional Natural Park, a “coastal wonderland” where much of the spectacular car chase in the 1977 Bond movie “The Spy Who Loved Me” was filmed.

Memories of Tenzing in North Wales

Before conquering Everest in 1953, Edmund Hillary, Tenzing Norgay and their fellow climbers spent weeks training on Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa). Their memory is still cherished at the Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel, where they stayed, said Gareth Roberts in The Guardian.

Built in 1810, the hotel sits alone at the foot of the mountain and feels “timeless”, with its roaring fires and rolltop baths. The hotel’s then landlord, Christopher Briggs, became a friend of Tenzing, and his grandsons – who now run the place – remember the climber from later visits as always smiling and to have been “incredibly kind”.

Photos of him and other climbers adorn the walls, and there’s a cabinet full of equipment and mementoes from the 1953 expedition.

Given the variability of last year’s snowfall, you would think heading to larger, more accessible resorts would give you the best guarantee for a full week of skiing. But “smaller, lesser-known resorts can often have bigger snowfalls, more vertical, fewer skiers and better off-piste”, said Alf Alderson in The Telegraph. Cheaper lift passes, shorter queues and fewer interruptions on the slopes also sweeten the deal, without compromising on skiing quality. Here are some of the best spots.

Heiligenblut, Austria

This tiny village beneath Austria’s highest mountain is “blissfully quiet”, said Sean Newsom in The Sunday Times. Each winter, the main road to Heiligenblut is “closed by snow”, and “few bother” to “wriggle in round on the back roads to ski its modest but spectacular area of intermediate-friendly slopes”. Heiligenblut is home to “mind-blowing” views of the 3,798-metre Grossglockner and a “non-existent (in a good way)” après-ski culture, allowing for proper relaxation. Anyone with an interest in ski touring or off-piste skiing will be “thrilled by its back-country potential”.

Tetnuldi, Georgia

The Georgian resort has “deserted slopes, deep powder and truly wild alpine panoramas”, said Alderson in The Telegraph. As you approach, you can see the “eponymous 4,858-metre Mount Tetnuldi, one of four Georgian peaks higher than Mont Blanc, glowering down at the pistes”. The resort has “consistently good snow and almost 1,000 metres of vertical” to explore. The long journey there is definitely “worthwhile”. “The 25km of marked pistes are a good warm-up for the world-class back-country skiing that’s the area’s big attraction.” At its foot, there is the town of Mestia, which is “famed for its stone Svan towers that date back to the 12th century”.

Brundage Mountain Resort, Idaho, US

This North American resort has an “uncrowded and unpretentious” vibe, said Ted Thornhill in The Independent. Just above the small mountain town of McCall, the resort offers a “classy experience”, welcoming both “strong skiers craving room to roam, and families who enjoy the low-stress atmosphere”. The après-ski is “friendly and relaxed”, once you’ve finished for the day on the area’s “famously light, dry snow”. “The average annual snowfall is around 320 inches and there are plenty of runs on which to relish it.”

Sainte-Foy-Tarentaise, France

“Sit in a lift queue at Val d’Isère or Tignes for long enough and someone will eventually mention Sainte-Foy, the resort a few minutes down the valley that regulars would rather keep to themselves,” said In the Snow. The whole area is “refreshingly uncrowded”, and though it only has 26 marked trails, its lift-accessed off-piste and powder terrain is “some of the best in the Tarentaise”. The low-key resort is in a prime location, with Val d’Isère, Tignes and Les Arcs “all easy day trips if you fancy a change of scenery”.

Vogel, Slovenia

“Vogel is one of the most spectacular ski resorts in Slovenia, if not in the whole of Europe,” said Tristan Kennedy in Snow. Most of the pistes are suitable for easy and intermediate skiers and expand on to “plenty of open, rolling terrain”. Vogel sits above Lake Bohinj – “just around the corner from that Instagram favourite, Lake Bled” – and has views over the Julian Alps and Triglav National Park. The resort’s “biggest selling point” is that it relies “entirely on natural snow, with no artificial snowmaking”.

John Steinbeck grew up among the fertile fields and mountains of Monterey County, California – a landscape he “vividly” described in his novels.

Fans who wish to explore his “beloved homeland” could start at his childhood home (now a restaurant) in Salinas, said Jacqui Agate in The Telegraph. At the nearby National Steinbeck Centre, you can see Rocinante, his camper truck.

Next, take the River Road Wine Trail through “a Steinbeckian swoop of sun-baked hills” to Pinnacles National Park, with its “tawny” crags and canyons. You could also visit the V6 Ranch in Parkfield – a cattle ranch that’s “about as close to Steinbeck’s agrarian beginnings as you can get” – and the coastal Post Ranch Inn, now a luxury resort, where he worked as a ranch hand in the 1920s.

A welcoming city in northern Spain

It’s not a “fashionable” place, but I love the city of León in northern Spain, said Annie Bennett in The Sunday Telegraph.

As a key point on the pilgrimage route to Santiago, it has a long history of “welcoming” visitors, and has some glorious architecture, including a gothic cathedral that is among the most “magnificent” in Spain, and the Basílica de San Isidoro, a Romanesque masterpiece with dazzling 12th-century frescoes depicting bible stories and scenes of rural life.

But it’s León’s tapas bars, more than anything, that “keep luring me back”. A glass of wine costs about €2.50 and is always served with a snack – perhaps a local speciality such as croquetas with local cured beef and Valdeón blue cheese. And the Parador de León is a gem – a former 16th-century pilgrims’ hostel, including a “sumptuous” breakfast.

Fair Isle’s magnificent migrants

Fair Isle is the UK’s most remote inhabited island – part of Shetland, but isolated from the rest of the archipelago, lying as it does 25 miles to the south of the main island of Mainland.

With sea cliffs up to 200 metres high, it is wild and spectacular, said Mike MacEacheran in The Times – and, thanks to its unique position, it’s a dream for birdwatchers, particularly during the autumn migration.

On a nine-night (two spent on the ferry) trip with Naturetrek, I stayed at the Fair Isle Bird Observatory, in a “cosy” room with “terrific sandy bay views”. Our guide, ornithologist Nick Boyd, was excellent, and we saw dozens of species, including a common rosefinch, a rare Fair Isle wren, and a buff-bellied pipit, “blown thousands of miles off course from North America” – a “once-in-a-decade sighting” that left me feeling “ecstatic”.

The Atlantic was the largest private yacht ever built when it emerged from a New Jersey shipyard in 1903. Two years later, it set a record for the fastest transatlantic sail crossing for a monohull yacht that would remain unbeaten for nearly 100 years. Sadly, the Atlantic suffered the “ultimate ignominy” in old age, said James Stewart in the Financial Times, becoming a floating tea room, before being broken up in 1982.

Later, however, a faithful replica, also called the Atlantic, was built. Completed in 2010, this 65-metre three-masted schooner is “a vision from yachting’s golden age to inspire romantics and dreamers” – and, following a refit last year, it will be available from this December to book on a weekly basis as it embarks on an “epic” journey around the world. “Few objects inspire devotion like great sailing yachts” – and on a recent day trip from Saint-Tropez, I found that the new Atlantic’s dozen crew (all dressed in matching navy trousers and monogrammed shirts) spoke of it with a “zeal” that was “way beyond professionalism”.

The biggest replica schooner afloat, it is a thing of great beauty, with a dozen sails, shiny brass fittings, and a “glossy raven-black hull”. Standing at its tip, with the “blue-black sea racing below”, I felt like I was “flying” – and it wasn’t hard to imagine its predecessor’s record-setting voyage as one of 11 cruiser-racers competing in the 1905 Kaiser’s Cup race. In that event, it sailed from Sandy Hook, New Jersey, to Lizard Point in Cornwall in 12 days, four hours, one minute and 19 seconds, despite having to contend with a three-day gale. Below decks, the new Atlantic has six double cabins, with carved panelling, mahogany parquet, green marble and walk-in showers with unlimited hot water.

Rates for a week on board start at €150,000 – which sounds only “slightly less scary” when you work out that that comes to £10,725 per head, assuming a party of 12, including all meals and wine.

James Stewart was a guest of Atlantic (atlantic-yacht.com).

Rising flight and hotel costs, combined with “stubbornly finite” annual leave, means most holidaymakers can take “one or two big trips” in a year, said Sarah Rappaport on Bloomberg. So a “growing cohort” of time-poor travellers are treating their holidays as an “investment” in themselves. The desire to “come home with more than Instagram shots as souvenirs” has given rise to “purposeful travel”: the skillcation.

From ‘fly and flop’ to ‘skilliday’

According to recent research by Mastercard, nearly half of Europeans plan to learn a new skill on their summer holiday – and over half of 18- to 34-year-olds have already planned a skill-based trip this year.

More than half of the 27,000 holidaymakers from 28 European countries surveyed said skill-based trips felt more meaningful than traditional holidays, especially when curated by locals. One in three (37%) booked a trip this year specifically to learn a skill, with a new language topping the list. The “era of the ‘fly and flop’” is “giving way to the ‘skilliday’”.

Tourists are looking for experiences that “create muscle memories”, said Mastercard economist Natalia Lechmanova. From “winemaking and woodworking” to pottery and painting, consumers are “opening their wallets” for a taste of local culture, and a “lesson that lasts long after they’ve arrived home”. Skill-based travel also “tends to draw people beyond the crowded hotspots”, into smaller towns and lower seasons, reducing the impact of overtourism.

These trips tend to cost more than conventional holidays, but the pay-off is high. People often see “longer-lasting positive effects on psychological well-being” than when taking holidays focused on “sun, sea and partying”, psychology professor Andrew Stevenson told Bloomberg. Spending time learning a new skill gives you the added “feeling of satisfaction and accomplishment”.

Over the years, “I’ve clumsily thrown myself into swing dancing lessons in Italy, free-diving sessions in French Polynesia, and Spanish intensives in Ecuador”, said Julia Eskins in Vogue. “I came home from each one feeling a little more capable than when I arrived.”

A trip like this has a “purpose”; said Alex Ledsom in Forbes; the traveller is looking for more than “just a break”. The goal is to fill time with “experiences that teach, reconnect and transform”. Those going on skillcations usually opt to learn something that’s unavailable to them at home, with tactile crafts like “Peruvian weaving or Japanese pottery-making” becoming increasingly popular activities. People are more interested in learning about “heritage, expertise, traditions and customs” than ever before.

That has led to one of the “fastest-growing segments” in the tourism industry, said Lindsay Cohn in W Magazine. Hotels everywhere are “ramping up” their activity programs to offer the chance to develop “new experiential abilities”, and it’s not limited to crafts.

Diving is a popular option for travellers who wish to “explore azure reefs and haunting shipwrecks”. For instance, you can get your Padi certification during a stay at the Six Senses Laamu in the Maldives. As for those interested in a “culinary journey”, Grand Hotel Fasano beside Italy’s Lake Garda takes guests on a tour of a nearby village to get involved in “preparing traditional regional recipes, paired with Garda-style spritz aperitifs, homemade lemon verbena liqueur, and local wine”.

Tracing a 135-mile horseshoe-shaped route through rural mid-Wales, Glyndwr’s Way passes through the splendid hill country that was at the heart of Owain Glyndwr’s 15-year rebellion against the English from 1400.

I am fascinated by this “great Welsh hero”, said Kevin Rushby in The Guardian, so I decided to hike the trail’s southern half, from the “pretty” border town of Knighton to Machynlleth, where the building in which Glyndwr held his Welsh parliament still stands.

I can’t say that I ended the journey feeling any wiser about the man himself – but it was a wonderful walk: “quiet, very quiet”, with highlights including the “lovely, slightly eccentric” town of Llanidloes, and the 564-metre-high peak of Foel Fadian, which affords some “great panoramas” of Snowdonia.

Marvellous mobiles in Philadelphia

Best known for his huge mobile sculptures – bright, abstract forms hanging from suspended metal frames – Alexander Calder was born in Philadelphia in 1898, and last year, a new museum dedicated to his work opened in the city, said Michael Joseph Gross in Travel + Leisure.

Designed by the architects Herzog and de Meuron, the galleries at Calder Gardens are “uplifting”, light-filled spaces in which the work is presented without labels or “curatorial statements” (Calder believed that we should interpret his art “on our own terms”). Outside, there’s a “meadowlike”, 1.8-acre sculpture garden laid out by Piet Oudolf (the Dutch landscape designer behind the High Line in Manhattan), to which admission is free.

It’s a worthy addition to a city known for its great art institutions, including the Philadelphia Museum of Art and the Barnes Foundation, which has a huge collection of impressionist and post-impressionist paintings.

A handsome port in northern Spain

The port city of Avilés, in Asturias, was once known for its “steelworks and pollution” – but with few factories left now, said Isambard Wilkinson in The Times, its air is much cleaner, and it is well worth a visit.

Avilés’ old town is one of the “loveliest” in northern Spain, with its Renaissance palaces, “leafy” parks and medieval churches, including two dedicated to Thomas Becket (“Santo Tomás de Cantorbery”). And in 2011, the city was given a major boost by the opening of the gleaming-white Oscar Niemeyer Centre, a “futuristic” arts venue designed by the Brazilian architect.

If you visit the centre, try to eat at Yume; the city also has another fine restaurant, Casa Tataguyo, which serves traditional Asturian cuisine. From nearby San Esteban de Pravia there are boat trips on the “majestic” Nalón estuary; it also has an excellent hotel, the Gran Hotel Brillante.

For hikers, the mountains of Sweden’s far north provide an “overwhelming” sense of freedom, thanks to the country’s right to roam and an almost complete absence of paths. It’s a feeling I wanted my children to experience, said Adam Weymouth in the Financial Times – and so last August, we took them camping in the region.

We travelled by train across Europe to Stockholm, and spent a weekend there before taking the sleeper to Björkliden – a journey of roughly 17 hours. This tiny place lies 155 miles north of the Arctic Circle, beside Torneträsk, a 43-mile-long lake. From the station, you can climb into the hills, and soon feel entirely removed from civilisation; if you kept walking south, you wouldn’t hit a road for 60 miles.

We could pitch our tent where we liked thanks to the right to roam, so we chose a high bluff where there was a decent breeze to keep the bugs away. From there, we struck out on daily rambles across “bare” hills, where summits are as high as or higher than Scotland’s, though they are neither jagged nor particularly craggy.

During long days outdoors, we saw reindeer and golden plovers, and the children climbed rocks, picked blueberries and slithered down the snowdrifts that persist all summer. There were rivers of the “most glacial blue”, and lakes where we swam for “frantic seconds” in water that was “magnificently cold”. At night, the “buttery evening light” bled from sunset into sunrise at around 3am. Despite all the sunshine, the average daytime high in Björkliden in August is 11C or 12C, while at night, the temperature falls to 4C to 5C, making this a distinctly “coolcation”.

The weather was changeable, and after a week, with “damp” children and no food left, we moved into a small log cabin at the Abisko Mountain Lodge, near the village of Abisko (population 150). The meals there were excellent, and the lodge proved to be a good base for further walks, including to the Kårsa Glacier, a place of “alien” beauty that made the kids “giddy” with excitement. But as the glacier has shrunk by 80% since the 1940s, it also left me with a troubling sense of “loss”.

Do we need a new way of measuring time? Are we losing the battle against bed bugs? And is it time to close Everest?

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“As Brits battle the country’s often-dire rail network”, railway pubs are sometimes the only thing that “keeps us sane amid countless delays, cancellations and strikes”, said Ed Cunningham on Time Out. If you find yourself at a loose end, or in need of travel refreshment, here are some of the best places across the country for a railway pint.

Tap on the Line, Kew, London

“Perched right on the platform at Kew Gardens station is a charming little boozer,” said Katie Forge on Secret London. London is known for its quirky pubs but few are this “unique”. The Tap on the Line (pictured above) is the only pub in the capital which sits directly on a tube station platform, and is one of the last remaining 19th-century stations. “It’s one of the very few places in the city where you can see your train coming, sink your pint, and still be on board by the time the train is ready to depart”. It also has regular live music, pub quizzes and a “wonderful atmosphere”.

The Sheffield Tap, Sheffield

“By my estimation the best station pub in Britain, the Sheffield Tap even stands out in a city full of excellent places for a pint,” said Will Hawkes in The Telegraph. This “Edwardian treasure” has been carved out of the station’s former “Refreshment Rooms”. It had been lying derelict until the mid-1970s, but has been given a second lease of life. It oozes class with a “mahogany bar, ornate barrel-plaster ceiling and terrazzo floor”, and even has a brewery in the “magnificent inner room”, which used to be the first class dining room. “A very elegant place for a pint indeed”.

Scott & Brassey, Carlisle, Cumbria

The Scott & Brassey has only been open since February, said Rachel Dixon in The Guardian, but you can still feel the history of the site. Its predecessor, the 301 Miles From London, closed in 2023, and customers can enjoy the same spot on platform 4, now with a “slick makeover”. There’s still the same original wooden entrance lobby, “hammerbeam roof and Tudor-style stone fireplaces”. Eight handpumps line the mahogany bar, and the feature wall behind is full of clocks, so there’s “no excuse for missing your train”.

Bank of Conwy, Conwy, North Wales

This warm, welcoming pub is across the road from the station at the “heart of this beautiful seaside town with a castle overlooking the harbour”, said Phil Mellows in The i Paper. It has been open since 2015, and has “warmly embraced modern craft beer”, with local favourites from Wild Horse Brewing down the coast at Llandudno. The building itself is a “nicely restored Grade II-listed former bank”, and has plenty of good cask ales on the pumps too, for “those of a more traditional disposition”.

The beauty of Lisbon’s pastel-hued architecture is one of the Portuguese capital’s major draws. Travellers enticed by beautiful surroundings would do well to stay at the newly opened Tarabel Lisbon, a luxury boutique hotel that prides itself on its decor. When you walk in, you’re greeted by an enormous antique birdcage wrought in the shape of a palace, with faux birds perched on top. This playful sensibility sets the tone for your stay.

Why stay here?

Situated on a hill in the Estrela neighbourhood, the Tarabel has no bad views. On one side, the former townhouse faces the splendour of the US Embassy building and its gardens. The other looks out at the show-stopping expanse of the Tagus estuary: the 25 de Abril Bridge, the Port of Lisbon, and the huge Christ the King monument across the river in Almada. An entire evening can be spent just sitting on the terrace with a glass of wine, watching the boats and cruise ships go by.

Tarabel’s impeccably manicured garden is on an incline, and is split into levels that naturally carve the space into smaller, intimate sitting areas. Parakeets – real this time – fly overhead and perch in the trees lining the garden. At the bottom is the emerald-green pool, providing guests with welcome respite from the heat. Bright white and yellow parasols complement the lush foliage, and looking up toward the hotel from the bottom of the garden you can see the large-scale tile artwork conceptualised by the owner and designer, a love letter to the azulejos (traditional ceramic tiles) of Lisbon.

The rooms

Rooms are spacious and luxurious. Most of the furniture comes from the owner’s personal collection, gathered over the course of a lifetime from visits to flea markets all over Europe. A trefoil side-table from Portobello Market sits next to a rococo settee from Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, stripped and reupholstered in a modern fabric. The Tarabel also borrows some styling choices from its sister location in Morocco, such as the pleated rattan accents and the occasional white-painted lattice woodwork.

Although bright whites dominate the hotel’s design, the warmth of unvarnished wood furniture does much to temper its starkness, and judicious use of pops of colour – fresh greens, yellows and florals – gives visual interest to the luxe space. Surprising, quirky additions are peppered throughout, such as a small trompe l’oeil ceiling fresco of a conservatory roof, complete with climbing roses and birds. It’s the attention to detail that makes this gathering of unique pieces work.

Eating and drinking

The quaint collection of flea-market finds extends to the cutlery and tableware, down to the miniature silver-lidded salt shakers. Everything is served on antique porcelain, mis-matched in design, yet unified in style.

The menu at Tarabel is a fusion of Portuguese, French and Italian cooking, with offerings sure to please most palates. The starters opened strongly: the fresh hamachi sourced from the Azores was buttery and tender, and the scoop of homemade basil sorbet perched on the tomato carpaccio was surprisingly delightful. The chicken’s accompaniment of roasted and pickled vegetables provided a light, pleasant contrast to the meat.

The standout dish, however, was the juicy scarlet prawns on a bed of creamy, lemony Portuguese rice. It exemplified the principles of Portuguese cooking: simple, unfussy flavour profiles and a focus on high-quality ingredients. It’s a must-try dish for any seafood lovers. Desserts are delicious and uncomplicated. Chocolate moelleux and tropical sorbet, both elevated with a flavoured crumble (cardamom and lime, respectively) finished off the meal with a satisfying hit of sweetness.

The staff are attentive and put in a lot of effort, ready to share tips and favourite restaurants, and really go the extra mile to make your stay pleasant and memorable. I took a croissant from the breakfast spread to my room to have later, only to find that after a few hours it had been replaced on the (now clingfilm-wrapped) plate by two pastries.

Things to do

While there’s no shortage of things to do in central Lisbon, the hotel’s location encourages a trip west, to the historic district of Belém. There, a short walk along the waterfront can take you from the Belém Tower to the Monument of Discoveries, and the luscious Vasco da Gama garden. The stunning Jerónimos Monastery nearby is also well worth a visit, and as a reward for a hard day of sightseeing, right next door you can try the original pastel de nata at Pastéis de Belém, the bakery that created the world-famous egg custard tart in 1837.

The verdict

Tarabel’s design sensibility fits right in with the beauty of Lisbon’s architecture, and if you’re looking for a room with a view of the river, there’s few places where you could do better. Whether in a plush suite or poolside, the hotel offers a wonderful place to rest whenever you’re not exploring Lisbon.

Julia was a guest of Tarabel Lisbon; tarabellisbon.com

The Costa del Sol has had a bad rap. The ultimate package holiday destination, its name was once synonymous with mass tourism, cheap deals and expats seeking sun. But those days are over.

The 93-mile stretch of Mediterranean coastline in southern Andalusia has gone upmarket and repositioned itself as a year-round destination with an average of 320 days of sun annually. Five-star hotels are opening further down the coast away from Marbella’s flashy nightclubs, and attention has turned from the region’s famous beaches and golf courses to its whitewashed mountain villages, natural parks and cultural sights, including Málaga, with its Moorish architecture, art scene and huge range of museums.

Fairmont La Hacienda Costa del Sol – the only Fairmont property in Spain and which opened in 2025 – is at the forefront of the region’s reinvention and has recently added a new beach club. Unlike so many hotels there, it doesn’t close after the summer making it a great choice for winter sun.

Why stay here?

To switch off and enjoy the sea views with plenty of pampering. The hotel is on a quieter stretch of coast on the border of the lesser known Costa de la Luz, between Sotogrande and Gibraltar. If you’ve heard horror stories about the queues to register for the EU’s Entry/Exit System at busy Málaga airport, you can easily swerve them by flying to less crowded Gibraltar instead, just half an hour away.

Fairmont La Hacienda is on a hillside overlooking the Mediterranean, a golf course and the distinctive Rock of Gibraltar itself. On a clear day, you can even see Morocco. Cleverly, the whole resort is upside down to maximise the spectacular views through a wall of glass in the top-floor lobby. Rooms are below and the pools and gardens on the ground floor – though this does make the lifts a little confusing as numbers go up even though floors go down.

It’s all impossibly chic inside – shades of white and biscuit-brown with warm wooden furniture, dark green plants and rattan lamps. Corridors are cavernous and there’s space and dappled light everywhere, with lingering airport niggles soothed as soon as you walk in the door by staff proffering cold towels and fresh juice.

There’s no bad – or small – room. All 150 king rooms have private terraces, with pale woods and décor in cool taupe shades, while some of the suites have plunge pools, private gardens or two bedrooms. If you fancy more space, there are 47 villas scattered around the grounds with between four and nine bedrooms each plus full kitchens. All have a sleek minimal feel, with jute rugs and linen cushions adding just a touch of colour to the all-neutral palette. Marble bathrooms have pricey Le Labo products and my signature sea view studio suite had a free-standing bath almost big enough to swim in, plus a bath pillow and wooden bath rack with space to hold a wine glass. It was quite tempting not to leave the room at all.

Eating and drinking

Food is a major focus. I felt like I was never more than a few minutes away from a platter of jamon croquettes or a bowl of juicy green olives. My favourite restaurant was Umbra, a poolside spot shaded by a bamboo ceiling and dotted with plants, which has a tapas-style menu of patatas bravas, fried calamari, prawn tacos and delicious roasted aubergine with sugar cane honey. Dishes can also be ordered straight to your lounger if walking the few steps from the pool feels like too much effort. Similarly, if you’re snoozing on the Blue Flag-certified beach, there’s no need to go far as the hotel’s new seasonal beach club La Cala de La Hacienda has Mediterranean dishes including gazpacho, grilled king prawns and burrata salad, washed down with a glass of cold Spanish albariño wine.

Back in the main hotel building, Il Faro Trattoria has sweeping sea views from its terrace and serves Italian classics including pizza and pasta. Desserts are the real stars of the show, with include limoncello sorbet with Italian meringue, mango and basil panna cotta and tiramisu all featuring. This is also the place for breakfast – a generous buffet of pastries, eggs, fruit and cheese. It’s worth arriving before 9am to avoid waiting for a table (and to try to nab one on the terrace).

However, the fine-dining restaurant Dalmar is the ultimate foodie destination if you’re hoping for a special occasion meal. Overseen by Benito Gómez, whose Ronda restaurant Bardal has two Michelin stars, it specialises in elegant Andalusian dishes such as marinated anchovies, chargrilled avocado with a spicy corn and vanilla dressing, and chicken roasted in a mushroom fricassee, all interspersed with tasty unexpected treats and served alongside local wines.

Things to do

Most guests do little more than walk on the beach, doze in the poolside cabanas or pop to the gorgeous spa, which has a range of hydrotherapy pools, a heated indoor pool, cold plunge baths, two hammams and a salt inhalation room for even more relaxing. There’s also a padel court, a 24-hour sea-view gym and a yoga studio with a resident teacher for those who really can’t sit still, while the neighbouring golf course is one of the best in Spain.

To explore further, the hotel can arrange trips to lively Marbella, the village of Jimena de la Frontera with its eighth-century castle or to Gibraltar, which is even easier to get to since the border crossing was removed as part of a new treaty in July. I headed to smart Sotogrande to tour the coastline by catamaran, watching dolphins swimming alongside the boat over a glass of cava then plunging off the back of the boat for a swim in the shadow of the Rock of Gibraltar.

The verdict

This stylish hotel has all you need for a do-nothing getaway, from its soothing décor and sea-view pools to its cossetting spa and impressive restaurants. Better still, it’s just a short flight away whenever a weekend reset is long overdue.

Siobhan Grogan was a guest of Fairmont La Hacienda Costa del Sol

Created in the 17th century, Japan’s Fujiko faith fuses Shinto and esoteric Buddhism in its reverence for Mount Fuji, the country’s highest peak. The faith still has some adherents, and visitors can join their pilgrimages, says Kate Crockett in Condé Nast Traveller, hiking 2,300 metres up the mountain’s lower slopes to the point, accessible by road, from which most climbers head out for the 3,776m summit. It’s a “soothing” one-day walk through ancient forests, which offers “tantalising” views of Fuji’s “snow-capped” peak, and stops at shrines along the way. You can do part of the route on horseback, and it’s worth staying longer, to visit other holy sites and sample the region’s “elegant” old pilgrims’ lodges – and perhaps the new luxury retreat Gora Kadan Fuji, with its “restorative” outdoor bath.

A four-day trip costs from £2,950pp, half-board (kammui.com)

The charm of Croatia’s “little Tuscany”

Most visitors to Croatia head for the “scrubby” and “sun-bleached” mountains and islands of Dalmatia. Set far inland, the rolling Samobor Hills are a different world entirely, said Mary Novakovich in The Guardian. Here, you’ll find a lush, “harmonious” landscape that could “out-Tuscany Tuscany”. The area is criss-crossed by forested trails, particularly in the Žumberak Nature Park, where residents of nearby Zagreb come to hike and bike at weekends. But the hills also offer less strenuous pleasures, including wineries known for their “elegant” sparkling wines. More than three dozen of these lie along the circular Plešivica Wine Road, including the “bucolic” 18th-century Griffin, and the “serene” Korak, which has a refreshingly unpretentious Michelin-starred restaurant. Also unmissable is the town of Samobor itself – the prettiest place in Zagreb county, full of “graceful” Habsburg-era houses in shades of “buttery yellow, apricot and pistachio”.

A week at Nadal’s school of padel

Often described as a cross between tennis and squash, padel is booming, with an estimated one million players in the UK. Being “utterly hooked”, I signed up for a week-long training camp at the Rafa Nadal Academy in Mallorca, said Jemima Kelly in the Financial Times – an “exhausting” experience, but “fun and exhilarating” too. Located in Manacor, the academy not only delivers world-class coaching in both tennis and padel, it has “top-notch” accommodation too, making a stay here feel like a proper holiday. Training days run from 8.30am to 6pm, but include a 3.5-hour break for long lunches and trips to the beach. I was impressed by the attentiveness of our coach, Rodri Ovide, and loved the resort’s spa.

The week costs from €3,984, full board (rafanadalacademy.com)

Isolated in the South Atlantic Ocean, 1,200 miles west of Angola, the volcanic island of St Helena has a “magic” that is “hard to define”, said Michael Binyon in The Times. It derives partly from the “beauty and variety” of the island’s landscapes, including “rich steep pastures” and “rugged bare mountains” rising to 820 metres. But it’s also to do with the island’s small size and friendly atmosphere: St Helena is less than one-third the size of the Isle of Wight, and is home to just 4,200 people.

Then there’s its pleasant tropical climate, its extraordinary history, the charm of its old buildings, and the sense of “stepping back into an earlier age” (although there is Wi-Fi here). In any case, I find it so “enticing” that I’ve returned seven times since first visiting in 2009.

The island is Britain’s oldest colony after Bermuda, having received its charter in 1659 during the protectorate of Oliver Cromwell’s son Richard. Its tiny capital, Jamestown, has “barely changed in two centuries”, and has the oldest Anglican church in the southern hemisphere, as well as a “beautiful” botanic garden. The governor’s mansion, Plantation House, was built in 1791 by the East India Company, and is famed today as the home of Jonathan, a tortoise from the Seychelles who is now aged about 194 and thought to be the oldest creature on Earth.

St Helena’s other “world-famous resident”, Napoleon, was exiled here in 1815, after the battle of Waterloo. The farm where he lived, Longwood, is now French property and has been restored to how it looked on the day of his death in 1821.

The island has an extraordinary wealth of endemic wildlife, with hundreds of species found nowhere else on Earth; and it’s also a good spot for diving and for dolphin-watching trips, although it has no proper beaches. If you go, I can recommend the Mantis St Helena hotel. But be warned that flights (from Johannesburg, plus Cape Town in summer) are often cancelled due to bad weather. If you can, add a few days to your trip just in case.

Halloween is all about “dressing up, carving pumpkins, sharing treats and enjoying spooky fun with friends and family”, said the BBC. Here are some of our favourite activities from across the country. Pick pumpkins in Yorkshire, cuddle tarantulas in Oxfordshire, or encounter ghostly figures in the Tower of London: no tricks, only treats.

Ghosts and ravens at Hampton Court Palace and the Tower of London

“Where better to mark All Hallows’ Eve than some of London’s most haunted locations?” said Connor Sturges in Condé Nast Traveller. Hampton Court Palace and the Tower of London are putting on their usual “spook-tacular” events for all ages throughout half term. Expect “roaming ghostly apparitions” as the sun sets, and follow autumn trails “filled with pumpkins, scarecrows and seasonal surprises” around the Palace grounds. For the first time at the Tower, there will be “early-bird access into the fortress for a unique encounter with the ravens”, while wardens regale you with tales of the Tower’s “darkest secrets”.
24 October to 1 November; hrp.org.uk/hampton-court-palace; hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london

Pumpkin Picking at Stockeld Park, North Yorkshire

A trip to Stockeld Park is “fantastic” all year round, said Alice Saville in Time Out. But it “lures” you in with an “added bonus” of themed adventure playgrounds around Halloween time. You can jump on a tractor and head out into the fields to select your own pumpkin, before settling in for a day of autumnal fun. The main event is a “pumpkin slingshot” which is included in your ticket price, but there are also wand-making sessions and a friendly roving scarecrow.
24 to 31 October; stockeldpark.co.uk

Scarefest at Alton Towers Resort, Staffordshire

Each year, the theme park “raises its Halloween game to offer an increasingly spookier experience for their annual Scarefest celebration”, said Amy Burns in The i Paper. This year it has after-dark rides on Nemesis Reborn, plus Wicker Man and The Smiler. Over the years, the park has introduced more “live actor experiences” and Halloween is the ideal opportunity to expand this trend – and offer “genuine frights”. To tone down the scare factor, you can head to Amigos in the Afterlife or Trick o’ Treat Town, where live actors will “amuse younger visitors and even hand out a few treats”.
10 to 11 October, and 16 October to 1 November; altontowers.com

Victoria Park Guardians, Victoria Park, Manchester

As October draws to a close, Stretford’s Victoria Park “transforms into an interactive family trail”, said Emmeline Banks in Secret Manchester. Teams gather together to solve clues to “uncover the mystery of the Keeper’s missing key” from the 13 Guardians hidden across the park’s paths, gardens, and historic spots. It’s designed for ages three to 12, and can take up to 90 minutes, but it’s well worth the reward waiting for you at the end.
24 to 31 October; eventbrite.com

Thrill-seeking at Blenheim Palace, Oxfordshire

The Palace’s “haunted half term” has plenty to offer for a family day out, said Fran Watts in The Independent. Handling animals in the ZooLab is perfect for little ones, allowing them to see tarantulas, snakes, giant snails and more up close. There are also witch storytelling sessions, circus workshops and the popular Pip and Posy trail. “Older thrill-seekers may want to wait until after dark” for the spooky trail – think “immersive entertainment, light displays, jumpy twists and turns and Halloween food and drinks”.
22 October to 1 November; blenheimpalace.com

More and more Parisians have been “reaching for a glass of Chartreuse” in recent years, said Morwenna Ferrier in The Guardian. But the “intensely green” herbal liqueur isn’t always easy to find.

Chartreuse dates back to 1605 when Carthusian monks were “entrusted with the recipe” by Duke François Annibal d’Estrées. Containing 130 ingredients including plants, barks and spices, the original recipe for the so-called “elixir of long life” took the monks “over a century to decipher”. Eventually, they settled on what became the base of today’s Chartreuse – a secret recipe known by just three monks.

It’s always been “pricey” but it got even harder to find when, in 2021, the Carthusian monks “suddenly announced plans to cap production” in order to devote themselves to prayer, sparking a global shortage.

The elusive liqueur is usually found in more “ambitiously stocked” bars. Its popularity has increased since the pandemic, when a “taste for the weirder, top-shelf” alcohols. At Combat, an “edgy-cool” bar on the Rue de Belleville, you’ll find it served cold in a “crystal-cut sipping glass” or mixed with gin, lime and a maraschino cherry in a cocktail, The Last Word.

Les Cave des Papilles, Le Saint Sebastien and Cave Pur Jus are other spots in Paris where you can find the “electric-green liqueur”, said Joel Hart in Bloomberg. Chartreuse drinkers are a “motley crew” – you’ll see them everywhere from luxury hotels to “low-key cave à mangers”.

Beyond the capital, every May the annual Les Fêtes de la Chartreuse takes place in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of France. It’s a “triple celebration”: of the liqueur itself, the “verdant mountain range” after which it is named, and the “area’s natural bounty at the height of spring”, said Matt Ortile in Condé Nast Traveler.

Chartreuse comes in two main expressions: green and yellow. I like the former. “Herbaceous” and “almost overwhelming”, drinking it straight “feels like a meadow grabbing you by the throat, and saying ‘Do you like that?’ (My answer is yes)”. But the yellow version “has its charms too” – it has a lower alcohol content and feels “sweetly cosy, like a good morning kiss from a casual lover”.

Scattered across southern Finland are “dozens” of lakeside hotels, many with saunas, self-catering cabins, and “gleaming” steps into the water.

On a four-night road trip from Helsinki to Lake Saimaa in September, I stayed at three, said Annabelle Thorpe in The Guardian – and found the region more beautiful, peaceful and “sunkissed” than I could have imagined.

First came the Radalla resort, with its “chic” cabins, and next, Sahanlahti, which has a “butterscotch yellow”, 18th century main house and an excellent restaurant. Between the two, I enjoyed a “hearty” bowl of elk soup and a tasting of berry wines at the Ollinmäki winery.

And last came Järvisydän – a 100-room resort with “starkly modern” glass-walled cabins – where I “whizzed out” in a motor boat to pick chanterelle mushrooms and look for rare ringed seals on Saimaa’s islands.
From £749pp, excluding flights, with Discover the World.

An enchanting town in the Tarn

With its charming medieval streets and “mighty” gothic cathedral – one of the world’s largest brick-built churches – the town of Albi in southern France makes for a lovely short break, said Jane Knight in The Times.

Set in the Tarn region, an hour’s drive north of Toulouse, it’s also known for its Toulouse-Lautrec museum, a big collection of works by the famously “diminutive” and dissolute painter, born here in 1864.

Visiting in June, I stayed at Villa Caroline, a pleasant hotel with four “rustic-chic” rooms, and I enjoyed a day’s e-biking from nearby Gaillac, which lends its name to the surrounding wine region, one of France’s oldest. At Domaine Gayrard, I tasted some organic wines made with rare local grape varieties, and visited Cordes-sur-Ciel, a fortified medieval town set high on a rocky hilltop with “sweeping” views.

A venerable paddle steamer turns 80

Launched in Glasgow in 1946, the PS Waverley is the last seagoing passenger-carrying paddle steamer in the world, and this year she celebrates her 80th anniversary.

With two red-and-black funnels and giant paddle wheels, she is a “glorious” sight, says Chris Moss in The Telegraph, and a “nostalgic” reminder of a more “sedate” era when Britain was home to hundreds of boats like this. Named after Sir Walter Scott’s novel, the Waverley was built to operate around Loch Long, replacing a vessel that was sunk by enemy fire during the evacuation of Dunkirk.

These days, however, she plies routes all around the UK. This month, she’ll be sailing mostly around London and the Southeast before returning to Glasgow for her final voyage of the season, on 18 October.
waverleyexcursions.co.uk

A vast “concrete jungle” with “notoriously awful” traffic, the Brazilian city of São Paulo does not attract many foreign tourists, said Tomé Morrissy-Swan in The Telegraph. They tend to opt instead for the “glamour and natural beauty” of Rio, or the “vivaciousness” of Salvador – and yet to skip it is to miss a “gem”.

Fifty miles across and home to some 21 million people, the urban area it dominates is the biggest in South America. Exploring it can be “tiring”, and the weather is often “grey and drizzly, even cold (by Brazilian standards)”. But the riches it harbours – artistic, architectural, musical, culinary – are “endless”, and many of its most tourist-friendly areas (such as “bohemian” Vila Madalena and “upmarket” Jardins) are walkable, and “relatively safe”.

In the mid-19th century, São Paulo was a “provincial backwater”, home to just 30,000 people. From the 1870s, however, a coffee-fuelled economic boom attracted huge numbers of immigrants, and the city soon overtook Rio as Brazil’s leading industrial and, later, financial centre.

Today, it is an art lover’s “paradise”, with hundreds of museums and galleries, such as the Pinacoteca (great for Brazilian art) and the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP), an extraordinary modernist building on “giant” red stilts. Fans of modernist architecture will find much else to enjoy, too – not least in Ibirapuera Park, with its striking array of mid-century buildings by Oscar Niemeyer, including the pavilion that now houses the superb Museu Afro Brasil.

São Paulo is also a great city of music. For traditional samba, try late-night spots in Pinheiros (Ó do Borogodó, Julinho Clube); less “raucous” are Bona Casa de Música and the “stunning” Casa de Francisca.

The food is terrific here too. Thanks to its waves of immigration, there are lots of excellent Japanese, Italian and Middle Eastern restaurants, but there are also plenty of wonderful Brazilian places. Two of these – Tuju and Evvai – recently became the first restaurants in Latin America to win three Michelin stars.

My idea of Sweden was based entirely on Scandi-noir dramas, all bleak landscapes, depressed people and woolly jumpers. Driving from the airport in early December the grey skies and vast landscape of fallow fields and red farm buildings confirmed that impression, especially as the sun started to set at around 4pm. But alongside those dark skies and empty spaces there was already a feeling of calm as we whizzed along in our rental car, which was of course a Volvo.

At almost twice the size of the UK but with a population density 90% lower, Sweden is a land of open landscapes and wild coastline. We were touring a small part of West Sweden made up of three provinces: Bohuslän, Dalsland, Västergötland. Lakes, mountains, forests and the endless islands are all within a few hours of Gothenburg so even without a car everything is accessible using the excellent trains, buses and ferries.

A charming seaside village

We started in Lyckorna, a historic seaside resort founded in 1877 by Robert MacFie, the son of William Andrew MacFie (credited with introducing curling to Sweden in 1846) who established a spa and bathing resort on this forested ridge. Now a charming village, with its traditional church with prominent spire overlooking the town and the old clock tower converted into a wonderful mussel and fish restaurant.

We arrived in time for Lucia Day, an annual Christian festival celebrated throughout Sweden and as iconic as the midsummer crayfish parties. There was a procession to the church of white clad handmaidens (tärnor), star boys (stjärngossar) and gingerbread men (pepparkaksgubbar) with candle wreaths on the maidens’ heads – now battery powered rather than actual flames.

We were staying just up the hill at Villa Sjötorp, a classic summer house completed in 1901 by Carl Emil Haeger. The white clapboard exterior topped with typical Norse dragon heads was taken back into the family in 1995 by Haeger’s great great granddaughter Ellika Modenfelt, who painstakingly restored it to its former glory with the help of local craftsmen. The minute we entered we were greeted by glorious colour, festive winter decorations and happy people. Our bedroom overlooked the sea with a large ceramic-tiled chimney and a classic cast-iron bed. Here we found the genius Swedish invention of single duvets on the double bed. At first we were bemused by it but as we snuggled under our individual goose feather duvets we had a blissful night’s sleep without having to fight for the covers.

The living areas featured elegant rooms with gilded wooden carved ceilings, a welcome fireplace and a popular restaurant serving delicious food from local sustainable and organic producers. As we were there in December we got to experience a traditional Julbord, a magnificent spread with a heavy focus on pickled herring. Ellika talked us through how to approach a frankly intimidating volume of food starting with 10 varieties of pickled herring served alongside wholemeal crackers and dark bread, washed down with brännvin, the Swedish schnapps which comes with its own song. Next up was a variety of fish and salads before we moved onto the cured meats and, finally, the hot food including baked ham, meatballs, sausages and a potato and salt-fish casserole. We finished off with more cheese and bread, and a selection of sweets and desserts. The highlight was the herring of which the Swedish are rightly proud, and obsessed with. You can eat it fresh and it’s delicious simply grilled.

It was hard to crawl out of our comfy bed early but we were booked to go kayaking along the coast. Our lovely hosts had prepared a breakfast of breads, fruit, coffee and boiled eggs with tubes of Kalles Kaviar Original, a smoked cod’s roe paste that’s almost as much of a national obsession as the herring.

Ancient oyster beds and rocky islands

Perhaps the best way to experience West Sweden is on the water. Ingela and Marcus run Skärgårdsidyllen Kayak & Outdoor activities in the magnificent archipelago of Grönemad, Grebbestad. It had been many decades since I’d been kayaking so Ingela kindly offered to go in a tandem kayak with me as, despite the comprehensive safety instruction and dry suit, I didn’t fancy falling into the North Sea in winter. Under grey and sleeting skies we paddled out onto the water where we passed ancient oyster beds and rocky islands with traditional fisherman’s huts. Eider ducks and black guillemots kept us company as Marcus and Ingela talked about the history of the area including pointing out their house overlooking the sea. They also run guided kayaking tours in the national marine park of Kosterhavet, hiking, paddle boarding and yoga, fishing and food tours throughout the year. You couldn’t wish for better guides and their glowing good health is testament to the benefits of outdoor life.

If you have time it’s well worth exploring Grebbestad, a popular seaside town with excellent seafood options, but we had a boat to catch. About nine miles off the coast of Bohuslän you can find Väderöarnas Värdshus, an inn with 22 rooms. This rugged island has cliff paths leading to the old pilot lookout, and sheltered coves. Set within the Väderöarna marine nature reserve, in season you can fish for lobster and crayfish but in December the best thing to do was have a wood-fired sauna and hot tub, complete with cold plunges into the dark winter sea.

But the highlight was the warm, friendly people who are proud of their country. They were keen to explain the best ways to enjoy the visit, from the choice of drinks to have in the hot tub, to sauna etiquette and braving that night-time dip. The sea didn’t exactly look inviting but cheered on by the Swedes I made like the locals and took the plunge, although – full disclosure – it was teeth-achingly cold so I stayed in for just enough time to defend national pride before jumping back into the hot tub. At dinner our enthusiasm for herring shocked them as they were sure all English people hated them. When we assured them we thought they were delicious it sparked a discussion from all the guests over the best places to eat Julbord. No one could agree where that was but when I asked what made a great Julbord the geneßral consensus was the more herring the better. As we sat outside wrapped against the cold and stared up at the star-filled sky, only the gentle lapping of the sea and the happy sound of the drinking songs disturbed the silence of the wilderness. Those Scandi dramas might have depicted the landscape, but they failed to prepare us for the warmth of the people.

Natasha was a guest of Visit West Sweden; westsweden.com

A cow’s urgent mooooo pierced the stillness of the Irish countryside – and my daydream. I was standing in a field at Rigney’s Farm in County Limerick, imagining what it would be like to say goodbye to the city and move thousands of miles to start a new, simpler life on the other side of the Atlantic.

I wasn’t alone. This late morning visit to the farm was a stop on Abercrombie & Kent’s small group journey Ireland: Legends of the Emerald Island, and I was accompanied by eight other travellers and our expert guide, Barbara Hunter. We were almost at the end of our adventure, having started in Dublin, and my affection for the country only deepened as we made our way through lush green landscapes, explored tiny villages – and their pubs – and met traditional Irish musicians and storytellers who perfected the art of good craic (fun times and friendly conversation).

Exploring Ireland, one village at a time

This was my first visit to Ireland, and the nine-day itinerary was a flawless introduction to all things Éire. There were the sights and pursuits listed in the tour books –taking in the rugged coastline during a drive on the Ring of Kerry, standing on the windswept Cliffs of Moher, riding a horse-drawn jaunting car through Killarney National Park, viewing the ancient Book of Kells – along with activities in small villages that connected you with locals.

Those were the experiences I’ll never forget. Our first stop outside Dublin was at Malzard’s Pub in Stoneyford, County Kilkenny. Fifth-generation owner Fred Malzard greeted us with a smile and offer of any drink we’d like, and within minutes I was in a booth sipping a Rockshore cider, listening to a traditional Gaelic storyteller, or seanchaí, spin a yarn. He was accompanied by a nattily dressed musician who before long had us singing folk songs at the top of our lungs.

After a bowl of delicious lamb stew, we headed outside for a quick hurling lesson. Hurling is one of Ireland’s national sports, and involves moving a ball down the field, either by hitting it or carrying it for up to four steps. Fred showed us how to smack the ball with the hurley stick, and, spoiler alert: I don’t have a future in the game. I did walk away with a souvenir ball and newfound appreciation for the sport.

Our trek around the southern part of Ireland, then up to Newmarket-on-Fergus in County Clare, took us through tiny towns, and I loved seeing the countryside and its ancient stone ruins and castles unfold before me. It was in those villages that we were able to enjoy homemade sausage pies and learn how to hand-churn butter at Rigney’s Farm, take a ferry to Whiddy Island for lunch and storytelling with a longtime resident, and learn about sustainable oyster farming at Kelly Oysters in County Galway. We gathered on a pier above the Atlantic, where Michael Kelly shucked us oyster after oyster, each one deliciously plump with the right amount of saltiness. Adding a splash of gin and squeeze of lemon only enhanced the flavour.

Having the opportunity to chat with locals about everything and anything – their work, their culture, their unfiltered thoughts on the All-Ireland Senior Hurling Championship – made these stops feel more like social calls than planned excursions. Abercrombie & Kent crafted the itinerary to include several of these special, one-of-a-kind opportunities, which let us experience a side of Ireland most visitors don’t get to see.

A taste of Irish hospitality

Hospitality is ingrained in Irish culture, and we received a warm welcome and top-notch service at the four hotels we stayed at. In Dublin, we checked into the contemporary Anantara The Marker, in the Docklands, which had one of the best breakfast buffets I’ve seen; the local meat and cheeses were fantastic. In County Cork, we stayed at Castlemartyr Resort, a historic property with elegant rooms that looked out at the countryside and Castlemartyr Golf Course.

We ate a lovely dinner here one night in the modern Canopy Restaurant, and the next evening set off for an unforgettable meal at the famed Ballymaloe House. The vegetables, grown just steps away, were exquisite, and we all got excited when the dessert trolley rolled in. Everything was prepared in-house, based on the ingredients in season, and we indulged in fresh sorbet served in an ice bowl, chocolate torte, an incredible fruity meringue and Mrs Allen’s Carrageen moss pudding.

Sheen Falls Lodge in Kenmare looked like it was straight out of a movie. A rushing river cuts through the property, and while I usually enjoy settling into hotel rooms, I couldn’t stay inside. I spent as much time outside as possible, walking along the pathways, snapping photos of blooming geraniums and enjoying a drink on the bar’s stone patio.

Our final hotel was Dromoland Castle, and our arrival was as dramatic as the landscape itself. We were greeted at the gate by three galloping horses and over a dozen hounds, who gracefully led us to the castle, where we were met by the delightful staff. It felt like a scene from “Downton Abbey”. I could have spent a week here exploring every nook and cranny of the castle and its 450 acres. The little touches also stood out; turndown service included a gift each night with different Dr. Barbara Sturm skin products, a welcome sight after a long day.

A journey to remember

On our first night, our guide Barbara told us the trip would go by in a flash, and she was right. It felt as if one minute we were stepping onto the bus for the first time, headed to Trinity College and St Patrick’s Cathedral, and the next it was time to say goodbye after our final dinner at Dromoland Castle.

Sharp as a tack with wit to match, Barbara was a wonderful guide, answering every question with aplomb. She brought along items like Irish linen to show us examples of traditional wares, and a map to point out where we were and where we were headed next. Our intrepid driver, Dermot, ferried us safely from stop to stop, and we all had room to spread out on the large, comfortable coach.

As a solo traveller, I was slightly apprehensive before arrival, but my fears disappeared the minute we all met and introduced ourselves. My fellow travellers’ enthusiasm for travelling and trying new things inspired me to do the same, and I enjoyed their company. I was on the trip by myself, but was never alone.

Abercrombie & Kent arranged a journey that was smooth from start to finish, and I appreciated all of the small details that made a huge difference, such as having laundry done at the halfway point (not having to pack a ton of clothes meant more room for souvenirs). I didn’t have to worry about a thing; all of my focus was on taking in the sights and enjoying the ride.

I left Ireland knowing I would be back. The Emerald Isle is a special place, and now that I’ve had a taste of the gorgeous scenery and rich history, I need to dive deeper – there’s more dramatic coastline to explore, villages to traverse, traditions to witness and craic to be had.

Catherine Garcia was a guest of Abercrombie & Kent

Since its premiere on HBO Max in the US last year, the Canadian ice hockey drama “Heated Rivalry” has become a “cultural phenomenon”, spawning trivia nights, costume contests and “no fewer than four parody musicals”, said Sarah Bahr in The New York Times. It catapulted its actors to stardom and created another, more unlikely star too – the glamorous lakeside house where the male lovers “cosy up”.

In Canada, such holiday homes, no matter how grand, are called “cottages”, and spending the summer in “cottage country” – the wilderness of forests and lakes beyond Canada’s cities – is a long-standing tradition. To sample it, I headed to Muskoka, a glorious region with more than 1,600 “sparkling” lakes, where the cottage featured in the TV show lies.

A two-hour drive north of Toronto, Lake Muskoka and its neighbours have been attracting the rich and famous for 150 years. Today, the likes of Tom Hanks and Steven Spielberg have cottages in the area – but despite high property prices, a holiday here can be relatively affordable, as the best experiences – “water- skiing shows, stunning hikes, weep-worthy sunsets” – are often free.

I stayed at a hotel in the small town of Gravenhurst, on Lake Muskoka itself, which has some decent restaurants and “charming” tea rooms, and is a good base for swimming, canoeing, sailing and hiking. I also stole a “distant glimpse” of the “Heated Rivalry” cottage, a “three-bedroom beauty with glass walls, floor-to-ceiling windows and a central granite fireplace” that was recently listed on Airbnb, starting at £1,625 per night.

I browsed farmers’ markets “brimming” with fresh local produce, and visited Bala – “Ontario’s cranberry capital” – where Muskoka Lakes Farm & Winery offers wine tastings and tours of its cranberry bog. I admired the “hulking” historic steamships that run sightseeing cruises from Gravenhurst. And I walked the Huckleberry Rock Lookout Trail – perhaps the region’s “prettiest” hike – up to a large “perch” of pink granite with sweeping views across the lake.

With its pale beaches and low-lying, forested interior, the Brazilian island of Boipeba is a slice of “heaven”, says Chris Haslam in The Sunday Times.

It lies in the tropical state of Bahia, 30 minutes by small plane (or a longer journey by boat and taxi) from the city of Salvador, and it gets busy from December to March. Even so, the absence of high-rise hotels and cars makes for a laid-back vibe, and at Easter, I found it “quiet”.

The weather was pleasant, too – not too hot at 28 degrees. A boat tour of the island’s mangroves and reefs was “like a promo reel for the Brazilian Tourist Board”; the food (including lots of spicy seafood stews with coconut milk) was wonderful; and I can recommend my hotel, the beachside Pousada Víla Sereía, which has lush gardens and just four cabins.

Poland’s lively capital of cinema

It lacks the charming medieval old town of Wrocław or Kraków, but the Polish city of Łódz (pronounced “wudj”) has two strengths of its own, says Kevin Rushby in The Guardian.

The first is its film industry. Poland’s best-known directors – Wajda, Polanski and Kieslowski – studied at its film school; more recent talents such as Paweł Pawlikowski have shot films here; and the city’s Museum of Cinematography is a “tour de force”.

The second is its industrial heritage. Łódz is chock-a-block with “handsome” Victorian-era textile factories – huge red-brick buildings that have been “beautifully” restored to house restaurants, bars, shops and more.

It’s a “stunning” example of urban regeneration underpinning a “vibrant” cultural life. Music and dance are “never far away” here, and there are some other first-rate attractions, including the “fascinating” Museum of the Factory, with working looms dating back to the 1880s.

The wondrousness of Great Orme

Extending for two miles northwest of Llandudno, the Great Orme peninsula makes up in “rugged” splendour what it lacks in size, says Kerry Walker in The Telegraph.

You can reach its 221-metre highest point on Britain’s only cable-hauled tramway, built in 1902, but it’s also worth walking the circular, four-mile Great Orme Nature Trail, which commands views back to Snowdonia. Rare wildflowers bloom in spring and summer, bringing “clouds” of butterflies, and the headland’s cliffs are home to “spectacular” colonies of seabirds.

Stay at the Lighthouse, a hotel in a Victorian lighthouse, or Lansdowne House (also charming), and look out for the peninsula’s long-horned goats. Descended from a pair given to Queen Victoria by the Shah of Persia in 1837, they found fame during Covid, when they “ran riot” in Llandudno’s deserted streets.

“Britain is now a nation of ‘shoulder seasoners’,” said The Times. For the “uninitiated” that means more of us are choosing to travel in May or September to avoid the crowds and soaring temperatures associated with peak summer holiday months.

Most of Europe’s “classic beach destinations” are more affordable in September when the kids go back to school. “But beware the weather.” While places like Faro in Portugal’s Algarve are still warm come autumn, the Atlantic Ocean can be “bracing”. If it’s sun you’re after, the further south you go “the better”.

For “reliable” October half-term temperatures of around 26C during the day, consider booking a trip to the Canary Islands. H10 Costa Adeje Palace in southwest Tenerife is right next to La Enramada beach, from which it’s easy to set out on “nice walks that spiral around the coast”.

If you love history, consider a last-minute trip to Greece. There’s “more room to breathe”, shorter queues for top archaeological sites, and you’ll be able to “relish the hike up to the Parthenon without melting in the heat”, said Condé Nast Traveller. A road trip that “traces the coast of the rugged and mountainous Peloponnese peninsula” is a great way to explore – as long as you’re prepared that it might be too chilly to take a dip.

Puglia is another excellent option for shoulder-season travellers, said The Independent. Outdoor enthusiasts won’t go wrong with a five-day, self-guided walk with Ramble Worldwide. Soak up the “beauties” of the coast as you weave your way from Otranto to Lecce “stopping for refreshing swims” while your luggage is taken ahead to your accommodation.

Or, head to Slovenia for “Habsburg-related history” and “cool wine regions” at a fraction the cost of neighbouring Austria, said The Times. By October, “the treeline cuts a russet-and-copper swathe across the Slovenian countryside as it climbs towards the mountains”. Begin your trip in Ljubljana and end up in Bohinj at its beautiful spa hotel overlooking the Julian Alps. Bliss.

Sonoma County has a reputation for outstanding wineries. Cool Pacific breezes and a variety of soils make this stretch of Northern California a perfect place to grow grapes. But there’s more to the region than its vineyards. These six refreshing options present Sonoma County in a different light, showcasing both nature and culture.

Take a walk on the wild side at Safari West

It’s easy to forget where you are during a visit to the wildlife preserve Safari West. Spread across 400 acres in the hills of Santa Rosa, Safari West is home to more than 900 animals, including giraffes, zebras, rhinos, flamingos, cape buffalo and impalas. As you make your way through the vast property on a guided open-air vehicle tour (sit on the roof for an extra thrill), it feels like you’re driving around the plains of Tanzania, waiting for the Great Migration to start.

Safari West was founded in 1993 by Nancy and Peter Lang as a wildlife conservation and education center. No two tours are alike; guides follow the animals’ lead and stay back, giving visitors the chance to appreciate the wildlife without encroaching. Along the way, guides share insights, and tours will stay in habitats longer when the animals are active and playing together or eating.

The fun doesn’t have to end once a tour is over. Guests can spend the night in one of Safari West’s custom-finished safari tents from Botswana. Each comes with a private bathroom, ceiling fan, space heater and viewing deck, and a continental breakfast. After dark, expect to hear the park’s nocturnal animals.

Stare up in awe at the Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve

For more than 1,000 years, the towering coastal redwoods at this natural reserve near Guerneville have stood tall, providing shade and tranquility. The wheelchair-accessible Pioneer Nature Trail passes by the Colonel Armstrong Tree, believed to be more than 1,400 years old and the oldest in the grove; the Icicle Tree, covered with substantial burl formations; and the Parson Jones Tree, the tallest in the park at more than 310 feet. The protected reserve covers 805 acres and is a reminder of what the landscape looked like before logging began in the 19th century.

Stop at downtown Guerneville for a heavenly buttermilk biscuit at Piknik Town Market. Order one with jam and butter, or go savory and get a biscuit topped with vegetarian gravy or stuffed with bacon, lettuce and tomato. While waiting for your breakfast, look around and shop for locally made shirts, hats, candles and tchotchkes. There are several stores along the main drag, including the whimsical Guerneville 5&10 filled with gifts, candy, greeting cards, art supplies and more.

Embrace a childhood favorite at the Charles M. Schulz Museum and Research Center

The gang’s all here. Charlie Brown, Woodstock, Lucy, Linus and, of course, Snoopy are celebrated at the cheerful Charles M. Schulz Museum and Research Center in Santa Rosa.

“Peanuts” creator Schulz moved to Sonoma County in the late 1950s, and the museum is filled with his personal artifacts. They include mementos from his childhood and military service and murals he painted for his children’s bedrooms, plus original comic panels, a recreation of Schulz’s studio and an impressive tile piece made of more than 3,500 “Peanuts” strips. In the Education Room, visitors can be creative too, drawing characters and making animations for zoetropes.

Across the street is Snoopy’s Home Ice, an indoor skating rink Schulz built in 1969, where youe can “lace up your skates for public sessions and lessons” or “cheer on” the Santa Rosa Growlers hockey team, said Travel and Leisure. At The Warm Puppy Café, hot cocoa is a popular treat year-round, and Snoopy’s Gallery & Gift Shop offers “Peanuts” T-shirts, sweatshirts, hats, magnets, stuffed animals and “all the other merch you could imagine.”

Float down the Russian River

During the summer, “dawdlers of all kinds” head to the Russian River with their “kayaks, canoes, inner tubes — just about anything that will float,” said the Los Angeles Times. Starting in Guerneville, revelers glide past redwoods, vineyards, beaches and other “scenery that might as well be a Northern California highlight reel.” This area is filled with small, “quirky” communities like Monte Rio and Forestville, where you can rent equipment.

Go for a swim at Francis Ford Coppola Winery

This isn’t your typical winery. Academy Award-winning filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola purchased this Geyserville property in 2006 and used it as another canvas for his storytelling.

While designing the estate, Coppola was inspired by Copenhagen’s Tivoli Gardens and classic amusement parks, and wanted the property to be a place where people could gather for activities beyond drinking wine — a “rarity among vineyards,” said Secret San Francisco. There is a “massive” pool surrounded by comfortable loungers, along with cabins that have a private shower and changing area, a bocce court and a movie gallery.

Visitors can take a self-guided audio tour through the curated gallery, which features memorabilia from Coppola’s films and life, including Don Corleone’s desk from “The Godfather,” surfboards from “Apocalypse Now,” a Tucker Torpedo car from 1948 and several Oscar statuettes. After your tour, lunch at Rustic is only a few steps away. Offering a “quintessential Sonoma Wine Country dining experience,” Rustic focuses on seasonal ingredients grown on property and traditional Italian dishes, said USA Today. Pastas are made in-house, the pizzas are wood-fired and a bag of delicious savory zeppole is presented at the start of every meal. Save room for dessert: The house-made sorbetto is fantastic.

Enjoy R&R at the retro cool Flamingo Resort & Spa

Flamingo Resort and Spa opened in Santa Rosa in 1957 and “wears its midcentury influence on its sleeve,” said The Michelin Guide. The 10-acre, pet-friendly property is anchored by a huge pool, where guests can splash away from morning until well into the night. Renovated rooms are “midcentury in inspiration and totally modern in their comforts,” with mini-refrigerators, coffee and tea stations and floor-to-ceiling windows with blackout curtains.

Guests have access to tennis and pickleball courts and a fitness center offering spin, yoga, a sauna and a steam room, and barre and aerobic classes. For a relaxing massage or facial, head to the spa, and for dinner, look no further than the Lazeaway Club. Sit outside on the patio overlooking the pool and enjoy the delicious Cal-Pacific cooking, like the bulgogi burger with umami fries, bibimbap bowl and seared salmon with shimeji mushrooms in a coconut-lemongrass broth. End the night at the Vintage Space for live music, dance parties and Thursday night stand-up shows with Don’t Tell Comedy.

Catherine Garcia was a guest of Sonoma County Tourism

Travel is usually about “discovery”, but there’s also joy in introducing places you love to people you love. That was the idea behind the 15-night tour of China my husband and I took with our teenage daughters last Easter, says Helen Holmes in The Times – though, in fact, we found the country much changed since our last visit 18 years ago.

The biggest boon was its “gleaming” new network of high-speed railways, which cut once-epic journeys down to just a few hours. Be warned, though, the country’s increased prosperity has also created “hordes” of domestic tourists, which has contributed to over-tourism at some sites. It is a good idea, too, to research local payment apps which, once mastered, make life much simpler.

Buying train tickets is still complex, however, so we used an agency, China Highlights. Our trip was bookended by four-night stays in Hong Kong and Shanghai, and we spent time in two regions between the two. First came three nights in the “lush” southwestern province of Guangxi, with its “languorous” rivers, rice paddies and karst peaks – “the landscape of Chinese legend”.

In the historic town of Xingping (featured on the 20 yuan banknote), we stayed at the Giggling Tree, a guesthouse in a former farm where you can dine in the courtyard, “inhaling the fragrance of pomelo blossom” on the warm evening air. And we escaped the “selfie-seeking crowds” on a cycling trip along the “misty” Li River, returning downstream on bamboo rafts propelled by boatmen with poles.

We spent a further four nights in Hunan province, in central China, at the Forest Glass Inn, a stylishly converted Tujia minority compound in Zhangjiajie. The nearby Zhangjiajie National Forest Park, with its 3,000 “spiky” peaks topped with “improbable” mops of lush greenery, inspired the landscapes in the Avatar films. The park is simply “astonishing”, although exploring can be tiring owing to the “staggering” tourist crowds. Less stressful were our visits to the old towns of Fenghuang and Furong Zhen – both “delightful”.

A long walk in the wild east, a “remote” upland region of northern Portugal close to the Spanish border, the Côa Valley feels like “an enchanted, parallel world”, says Ben Buckland in The New York Times.

To explore it thoroughly, you could walk the 124-mile Côa Valley Grand Route, or GR45, which follows the Côa River northwards from its source to its confluence with the Douro. There are medieval castles along the way, and beautiful old villages with pleasant B&Bs, still thriving despite decades of rural flight.

Eagles and wolves roam the countryside, along with “sleek” grey Sorraia horses, reintroduced by the charity Rewilding Portugal. And near the trail’s northern end, there’s an even more extraordinary sight: thousands of “crisp” rock engravings of animals dating back up to 24,000 years, now protected as a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Britain’s new marine marvels

As climate change warms Britain’s coastal waters, there has been a “huge influx” of spectacular species from seas to the south.

Keen to see some of them, I took a wildlife-watching boat trip from Brixham Harbour in south Devon, says Mark Stratton in The Telegraph – a day-long outing with Captain Ross Parham on his 42ft catamaran Spot On.

The sightings were plentiful, beginning with a sunfish – a “bizarre leviathan” with no tail and a round body that grows up to 10ft long. Later came “entrancing” pods of common dolphins (which are increasingly numerous here), and several 12ft-long Risso dolphins (“truly impressive beasts” with “bulbous, wrecking-ball heads”), which were seen doing “arching backflips” with “great splash landings”. The birds were dazzling, too – especially the Balearic shearwaters. Our “exotic” show concluded with a sighting of a 30ft minke whale.

The trip costs £135pp (naturetrek.co.uk).

A 1970s time warp on the Med

It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but if you’ve got a soft spot for 1970s urban planning, you might enjoy a trip to La Grande-Motte, says Mark C. O’Flaherty in The Guardian.

Conceived by the architect Jean Balladur, this “retro futurist folly of a resort town” lies on France’s south coast, 30 minutes’ drive from Montpellier. In the 1980s, it was seen as “gauche”, and later it gained a “trashy reputation”. But it seems to be undergoing a “renaissance”, and its “gleaming white” apartment blocks – like “Mesoamerican pyramids”, but with elegant balconies and lots of “intergalactic” curves – should please any “lover of postwar architourism”.

Stay at the three-star Hôtel Le Quetzal (refurbished, but still “fabulously vintage”), and make time for the more conventional sights nearby – notably the area’s salt marshes.

Not all castles are as they seem. Many have been transformed into hotels, where guests can live out their aristocratic dreams behind stone walls and high gates. These historic castles offer a stay you won’t experience anywhere else — plus the chance to be king or queen for the night.

Burghotel Auf Schonburg, Oberwesel, Germany

The moment you step inside this 1,000-year-old castle you can feel its storied history. There are 31 rooms and suites, each with its own design and antique furnishings, and several have balconies that look over the Rhine. Head to the interactive Tower Museum to learn more about how the castle defended itself against attacks, and stroll through the sprawling fairytale gardens for some quiet reflection.

Dalhousie Castle, Bonnyrigg, Scotland

For more than 800 years, Dalhousie Castle near Edinburgh has welcomed royalty, poets, politicians and now, you. This is the oldest inhabited castle in Scotland, complete with turrets, arched windows and red stone walls. In the Dungeon Restaurant, diners feast on contemporary Scottish cuisine, their tables surrounded by suits of armor and shields.

Dromoland Castle, Newmarket-on-Fergus, Ireland

Upon arrival, you’ll immediately notice Dromoland Castle’s “legendary” porters and doormen, who carry your bags to your room with “cheery smiles and lots of stories,” said Condé Nast Traveler. Their excellent service is just one perk of staying at the property.

You’ll also enjoy “castle-appropriate” activities like falconry walks and candle-lit dinners with “white glove service” at the Earl of Thomond restaurant, said Condé Nast Traveler. Take time to explore the “maze-like” main building, where architectural details include stained glass windows and carved ceilings.

Hever Castle, Edenbridge, England

Spend the night where Anne Boleyn spent her childhood. Her family moved to Hever Castle in the early 1500s, and this is where the doomed queen “received letters from Henry VIII,” said Time Out.

There are 26 rooms in the “beautiful” castle, which underwent a complete restoration in the early 20th century, courtesy of William Waldorf Astor. Even if you don’t have a “thing for the Tudors,” it’s “impossible not to be impressed” by the property and its “superb” gardens.

Ozu Castle, Ehime, Japan

This meticulously restored wooden castle is one of only a few still standing in Japan — and the first to welcome overnight guests. It’s believed that the original fortress went up in the 14th century, about 200 years before the Kato clan took control of Ozu.

There’s a focus on ensuring amenities and items like sheets and tableware are made locally and that guests are introduced to the area’s history. One way is through the 1617 Sadayasu Kato Takeover, a reenactment guests can participate in.

Pousada Castelo Estremoz, Portugal

Built in the 13th century by King Dinis I for Queen Saint Elizabeth of Portugal, Pousada Castelo Estremoz offers “sweeping views” of the Alentejo region, said Condé Nast Traveler. Rooms and suites come with “gorgeous” canopy beds, and outside there are “manicured” gardens, a swimming pool and a terrace perfect for meditation sessions. The palace sits in the historic center of Estremoz, known for its white marble quarries.

Ghent is a little overshadowed in the Belgian city break stakes by Bruges. But as well as great bars, restaurants, sights and shops, Ghent, too, has canals, medieval buildings, cobbled streets, a belfry and castle. It isn’t swamped by tourists, as Bruges can be. And at three hours by Eurostar it’s half an hour closer to London St Pancras.

Through a discreet glass door on the cobbled Graslei quay by St Michael’s Bridge, a spot in almost every shot of Ghent, is 1898 Porter’s House. With three suites and one room, it opened in September 2026 after refurbishment by Geraldine Dohogne, who also transformed the adjoining hotel, 1898 The Post.

Why stay here?

All the rooms are different shapes, sizes and layouts, but all share inviting textures and deep, rich colours – cocooning décor that feels profoundly welcoming. Mine is dark blue, with solid wooden beams.

Above the vast bed, with impeccable white linen and tweedy headboard, is the TV, almost as vast, although you can watch it only from the bed, not from the velvet armchair – just one in a room undeniably designed for two. That comfy seat is a perfect perch for a cup of tea from the in-room supplies, which also include ready-mixed in-house cocktails – just add ice. The kettle and coffee machine are tidily housed in a drawer, plugged in invisibly.

Thoughtful touches abound, such as a warm throw, books – including a bespoke “500 Hidden Secrets of Ghent” guidebook, yoga mat and blocks, umbrella and flip flops. Just inside the entryway, there’s ample hanging storage – although not long enough for my midi dress.

The marble bathroom with underfloor heating is equipped with bath, twin sinks and a rainfall shower with overhead roses and handheld attachments too, stocked with citrussy Guerlain Impériale toiletries. The loo, classily, is separate.

Two of the suites have a plant-filled roof terrace. As well as sunloungers, a table and chairs, mine has a copper bathtub. At night this is lit by strung lights and lanterns, perfect for an al fresco dip above the urban buzz, while inside lamps cast a soft glow, and thick Roman blinds and bedroom curtains block out all light.

Eating and drinking

A short stroll along Graslei takes you to breakfast in The Post’s breakfast room, The Kitchen, which becomes The Cobbler bar by night. Although the buffet size is small, it’s densely packed with desirable ways to start the day: mini croissants, mini pains au chocolat, cheeses and meats, yogurt, granola, seeds, an impressive array of fruit, plus eggs cooked to order and power shots of ginger, turmeric, and lemon, orange and pineapple juice.

It’s easy to find more great food in Ghent. For elevated dining, head to Sensum, housed in a Louis XVI mansion – which won its Michelin star in 2023 – and try its simply described four- or five-course experience menu. As a vegetarian, it was strange to choose dishes with names like Gobetto prawn and French pigeon, but staff reassured me that my food would be meat- and fish-free yet focused on the component flavours. Service was relaxed, attentive and informative, each course explained on arrival.

The food was exquisite, inventively prepared and impeccably presented. Memorable mouthfuls include an amuse bouche of panna cotta made with smoked milk; beetroot roasted for 72 hours then rehydrated, served with sour cream mousse, and gooseberry granita, which appeared on the menu as royal Belgian caviar.

Near the Museum of Industry is the cool, contemporary interior and vine-shaded courtyard of Edgar Kaasbar, whose short menu focuses on cheese (kaas), from raclette and fondue to croquettes and platters, with suggested wine and beer pairings. My pungent plateful grew in strength from tomme to Shropshire blue, accompanied by crusty bread, fruit and nuts.

Don’t miss out on Belgian specialities, such as chips and mayonnaise, a classic now with heritage status (although here beef stew is the preferred topping).

There are plenty of fine chocolate shops; I took home a tempting trayful from Deduytschaever near the Belfort. At the other end of the taste spectrum: excellent Tierenteyn mustard. This Ghent condiment’s quality apparently results from a family feud.

Boasting Ghent’s biggest beer selection, at over 500, is Café de Dulle Griet (which translates as ‘mad Meg’, taking its name from a nearby cannon). To sample the house beer, Max, served in a long glass on a wooden stand, you must surrender one shoe to a wire cage on the ceiling, returned when you return the glass.

Café den Turk, popular with locals, is the city’s oldest bar, dating from the 13th century, but its simple approach doesn’t trade on that.

Sample jenever, Belgian juniper-flavoured spirit, at t’Dreupelkot, by the river at Groentenmarkt 12, which dispenses shots of over 200 flavours, including coconut, cactus, vanilla and chilli.

For a nightcap, stay close to home with a cocktail in The Cobbler, a cool hangout for both residents and non-residents. My Kintsugi, with gin, kaffir lime and ginger, was fragrant and floral.

Things to do

Get yourself a Visit Gent CityCard – at just €49 for 48 hours, with free entry to sights, plus free tram, bus, bike and boat travel. Orient yourself with an overview of the city – literally – at the STAM, or Museum of Ghent, with a vast aerial photo to walk across, among varied exhibits including 13th-century frescos. Turn left out of the hotel and walk along the river. To return, board the hop-on, hop-off boat with your CityCard for a 90-minute city tour (hopping off not obligatory).

Gain a bird’s-eye view atop the 12th-century Belfort (belfry), with an array of bells and clock mechanisms within the tower.

The fairytale 12th-century castle, Gravensteen (Castle of the Counts) has enough battlements, turrets and crenellations to satisfy history buffs and small children. Inside, as well as the good city views, there’s a torture museum.

Fusing architectural styles is St Bavo’s (or Sint Baaf’s), the not-to-be-missed cathedral, boasting 22 altars, plus the world-famous “Adoration of the Mystic Lamb” altarpiece by Hubert and Jan van Eyck, the world’s first work using oil paints, in around 1432. Book the VR tour to better appreciate the glowing, vibrant figures and scenes in detail, and to learn its history, including multiple thefts – its return was part of the Treaty of Versailles after the First World War. The Museum of Fine Arts is carrying out restoration work on some of the original panels, which you can watch until 31 December. (Van Eyck portraits are on show at London’s National Gallery from 21 November.)

The verdict

A truly welcoming environment, from the decor to the historic artefacts in the myrrh and vetiver-scented public spaces that encourage you to slow down, to the endlessly good-humoured and patient staff. As the hotel’s interior designer Dohogne said: “it’s a sophisticated space that respects the guests’ needs and builds a world around them.” Feeling completely at home, I was happy to inhabit this world, if only for a short time.

Adrienne Wyper was a guest of 1898 Porter’s House, 1898portershouse.com

“I love summer as much as the next person, but I have to admit that, once the calendar gets to mid-August, I just cannot wait for autumn to arrive,” said Alessia Armenise in Condé Nast Traveller. As the weather cools down and the “back-to-school atmosphere is in full swing” the “long-awaited autumn activities can finally begin”.

The season for apple picking is about to hit its peak, with orchards all around the country opening their gates for people to fill their baskets. Here are some of our favourite places for a wholesome day out.

Ampleforth Abbey, Yorkshire

This is the “perfect place to spend a full autumn day out”, said Condé Nast Traveller. September and October are prime months for apple picking, with plenty of other activities to keep you entertained. The abbey has its own cider mill, and you can learn about the site’s history of making its own apple juice and cider. Once you have enough apples, “you can visit the abbey, explore the grounds and indulge in an afternoon tea”.
ampleforthabbey.org.uk

Brogdale Collections, Kent

This south east gem is known for its “diverse array of fruits, set in a stunning natural setting”, said Lauren Hughes in Country Living. Visitors can opt for guided tours which run until the end of October, allowing you to “explore the grounds and sample seasonal fruit”. Most importantly, the orchard also runs “Pick Your Own Fruit” weekends until 1 November, with both apples and pears available to get your fructose kick!
brogdalecollections.org

Hillfield Nursery, Norfolk

More than 250 varieties of apple are planted at Hillfield, “meaning the season starts early in the summer and finishes well into autumn”, said Rebecca Seal in National Geographic. The William Crump and Ellison’s Orange varieties are “rare”, and just two of many “real treasures among the trees”. Apple aficionados can also broaden their horizons, sinking their teeth into “plums, quince and medlars”, with the latter “a wonderful fruit that’s barely ever cultivated and looks like a cross between an apple and a rosehip”. They can be “picked hard, sour and unripe in autumn and then stored inside until they become aromatic and sweet” when they are usually used to make jam.
hillfieldnursery.co.uk

Hawarden Estate, Flintshire

Apples, pears and pumpkins are all up for grabs in this Welsh haven, said Siobhan Grogan in The Times. After filling your punnet, you can head to the estate’s onsite bakery for more sugary sustenance. In the afternoon, expand your range foraging for mushrooms in the grounds: after the three-hour guided woodland walk, you’ll know your “shaggy parasols from your chanterelles”. The estate is also home to an “18th-century castle where the four-time prime minister William Gladstone lived”, so plenty for history buffs too.
hawardenestateholidays.co.uk

Mersey Vale Nature Park, Manchester

Further north, there is “apple picking in abundance”, said Emmeline Banks in Secret Manchester. Mersey Vale Nature Park is a “wonderful destination any day of the week”: the city’s traditional community-run orchards sit next to “two ponds with dipping platforms” and a “wildflower meadow”. It is “more of an informal experience” here, with members of the public free to “wander through the trees, taking in what nature has to offer, and pick the tasty apples for themselves, free of charge”. There’s a real drive to use the nature reserve to “educate and support locals in eating healthily and understanding the importance of local produce”.
stockport.gov.uk/community-orchards

It’s not surprising that a trip to the Galapagos Islands “tops many travellers’ wish lists”, said The Times. The “far-flung Ecuadorian archipelago” is home to “astonishing landscapes” and an array of rare wildlife from blue-footed boobies to marine iguanas and giant tortoises.

It is best navigated by a small ship, all of which are “strictly regulated” in order to protect the “pristine natural area known to have inspired Darwin’s theory of evolution”. These vessels are limited to a maximum of 100 guests, and travel with “resident naturalists” to share fascinating insights about the surroundings.

We took an early morning flight from Quito to Baltra Island in the centre of the archipelago before boarding the National Geographic Islander III, said Marc Shoffman in The Independent. With just 48 guests it’s an intimate boat: you won’t find any waterslides or ice cream shops, but my daughters were happy “snorkelling among the turtles, parrot fish and manta rays in the unseasonably warm waters”.

There are “a few rules” to follow. Guests must travel in groups of up to 16 and be accompanied by an expert guide to “keep crowds down”. You can’t take anything home with you, however tempting, and you must always stand six feet away from the wildlife. The reward is how close you can get to the incredible creatures that seem “unbothered” by human presence.

It’s worth getting up early to avoid the heat and “capture the wildlife at its calmest”. On South Plaza Island we were greeted by “sleepy sea lions and the region’s unique swallow-tailed gulls”, and on Las Bachas “rare birds such as the red-footed booby and shiny white Nazca boobies simply waddled by”. The best moment, though, was watching the “famous giant tortoises as they calmly ate grass at the Rancho El Manzanillo, unfazed by our gawping”.

If you love the water, Celebrity Cruises is a good option, said The Telegraph. During the seven-night itineraries guests have plenty of opportunities to “splash around with the archipelago’s diverse and diverting marine wildlife”. Snorkelling sessions are a great way to get close to sea turtles, reef sharks and, if you’re lucky, the “darting, bullet-like form of a Galapagos penguin”.

Or if birdwatching is more up your alley, try one of Silversea’s luxury expeditions exploring the Outer Loop. The first stop is Genovesa, dubbed Bird Island for its incredible variety of avian life including the “hard-to-spot short-eared owl” and magnificent red-throated frigatebirds.

Istanbul is a city that seamlessly blends old and new. One moment you’re standing beneath the soaring domes of an Ottoman mosque, the next sipping cocktails overlooking one of the world’s busiest waterways as sleek ferries weave between Europe and Asia. Few hotels capture the contrast better than The Ritz-Carlton Istanbul. Named the city’s best hotel in the 2026 Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards and ranked sixth in Europe, it occupies prestigious Süzer Plaza in the elegant Dolmabahçe district, away from the busiest tourist streets yet within an easy walk of Taksim Square and Dolmabahçe Palace.

With 239 rooms and suites, Turkey’s only Nobu restaurant, four further dining venues, a rooftop terrace with infinity pool and an extensive subterranean spa, it makes an ideal base for exploring one of the world’s most intoxicating cities.

Why stay here?

After a day negotiating Istanbul’s energetic streets, the rooms feel wonderfully restorative. Our partial Bosphorus view room is flooded with light thanks to lofty ceilings and large windows framing water, woodland and the city skyline. Soft neutral tones are lifted by a curved leather-and-wood headboard, striking blue wall art inspired by traditional Turkish textiles and elegant pendant lighting that gives the room warmth rather than hotel uniformity.

In the bathroom, white Turkish Afyon marble is paired with hand-painted Iznik tiles, tulip motifs and a handsome dark-wood vanity. A deep soaking tub, walk-in rainfall shower and Diptyque Philosykos toiletries invite an unhurried bathing ritual before dinner.

Guests looking to splurge can book the 120 sq metres Ritz-Carlton Suite, complete with dining room, whirlpool bath and panoramic Bosphorus views, or the Nobu Suite that combines Japanese minimalism with Turkish craftsmanship and features a private terrace with an onsen tub overlooking the water.

There’s much to tempt beyond the bedroom too. Descend to the hotel’s expansive spa where you’ll find a traditional hammam, treatment rooms, indoor pool and fitness facilities, or make straight for The Roof, where Istanbul unfolds beneath you. By day, guests recline on chunky loungers beneath towering palms and oversized parasols and cool off in the petite infinity pool; by evening, the atmosphere shifts as DJs take to the decks. Yoga classes and open-air cinema nights are also held in this appealing rooftop space.

Eating and drinking

The Roof is the perfect place to begin the evening. As the sun dips behind the skyline, cocktails arrive. My Lychee Tax – a deliciously fruity blend of strawberry rum and lychee purée – slipped down quickly.

The Ritz-Carlton is home to Turkey’s first Nobu, still one of Istanbul’s hardest restaurant reservations to secure. The celebrated Japanese-Peruvian menu delivers all the signatures that have made the brand famous worldwide. We began with buttery toro with yuzu and pulled beef tacos scented with truffle before moving on to Nobu’s legendary black cod, which lived up to its reputation, and perfectly steamed turbot bursting with clean, delicate flavours. Every mouthful was a surprise.

Breakfast and dinner are served at Atölye, a light-filled dining room delivering sweeping Bosphorus views. The menu celebrates modern Anatolian cuisine using regional ingredients and traditional recipes with a contemporary twist. Smoky aubergine atom, reminiscent of an elevated babaganoush, and black cabbage stuffed with walnuts and roasted peppers made memorable starters before beautifully cooked shrimp arrived alongside hibeş, a rich, spicy tahini dip. Exceptionally tender lamb Küşleme was served with crisp aubergine chips, and dessert took the form of an ingenious fig-shaped pudding that concealed flowing fig jelly beneath a white chocolate shell. Watching darkness settle over the Bosphorus as dinner unfolded made the experience all the more memorable, helped by attentive but discreet service.

For something altogether different, Limoré brings Italy to Istanbul. Bright, contemporary interiors provide the backdrop for handmade pasta, excellent pizzas and generous Italian classics. Bucatini cacio e pepe would satisfy even discerning Romans, and truffle risotto, osso buco and sole mugnaia round off a dinner that tasted just like nonna made it.

Things to do

One of Istanbul's greatest pleasures is discovering how effortlessly the city layers empires, religions and cultures. Although traffic is often gridlocked, the efficient tram network makes many of the major sights surprisingly easy to reach.

Begin at the Grand Bazaar, where more than 4,000 shops are packed in a labyrinth of vaulted passageways that have bustled with traders for over 500 years. Amid the calls of merchants selling spices, carpets, jewellery and ceramics, we stocked up on fragrant Turkish delight before wandering towards Sultanahmet, home to two of the city’s greatest architectural treasures.

The sixth-century Hagia Sophia remains one of the world’s most extraordinary buildings. Originally a Byzantine cathedral before becoming an Ottoman mosque and now an active place of worship once more, its vast marble interior, soaring dome and shimmering gold mosaics still inspire awe nearly 1,500 years after it was built. Just across the square, the Blue Mosque is equally magnificent. Its six slender minarets dominate the skyline, while inside more than 20,000 hand-painted blue Iznik tiles decorate the cascading domes. Between prayer times, visitors quietly share the space with worshippers, who gather at the fountains outside for ritual ablutions before entering.

For a change of pace, head to Balat, one of Istanbul’s most characterful neighbourhoods. Its steep cobbled streets are lined with brightly painted Ottoman houses, art galleries, vintage boutiques and second-hand bookshops, offering a more bohemian feel than the grand monuments of the historic peninsula. We paused at the delightfully quirky Velvet Café for cappuccino and a superb serving of rich Kaymaklı un helvası before visiting the remarkable Bulgarian Church of St Stephen, whose prefabricated cast-iron construction and dazzling gilded interior make it unlike any other church in the city.

Back near the hotel, Taksim Square marks the heart of modern Istanbul. From here, lively Istiklal Street threads through elegant 19th-century buildings housing international brands, cafés and historic landmarks including the Church of St Anthony of Padua. Don’t miss the compact but excellent Pera Museum, home to celebrated Orientalist paintings, Turkish ceramics and a café centred around a piano once owned by Maria Callas. Afterwards, head back through leafy Cihangir, where independent coffee shops, vintage stores and Istanbul’s famously pampered street cats provide a reminder that some of the city’s greatest pleasures are found on a quiet wander.

The verdict

Superbly located between historic and modern Istanbul, The Ritz-Carlton delivers polished service without pretension. Add beautifully appointed rooms, Bosphorus views, Turkey’s first Nobu, an excellent spa and one of the city’s finest rooftops, and it’s easy to see why it ranks among Europe’s most celebrated luxury hotels.

Vicki was a guest of The Ritz-Carlton Istanbul; ritzcarlton.com

Tucked into a dense forest in Trentino’s Val Rendena, Lefay Resort & SPA Dolomiti occupies an enviable position perched on the edge of the town of Pinzolo, one of the gateways to the UNESCO-listed Dolomites.

Opened in 2019, the resort cascades down the mountainside across nine levels, with contemporary architecture that complements the landscape rather than competing with it. While many alpine hotels lean heavily on knotty pine and chalet nostalgia, Lefay takes a more refined approach. The exterior combines locally sourced larch and fir; the interiors layer chestnut, oak, stone, leather and bronze in a palette that feels quietly luxurious rather than overtly rustic.

The soaring A-frame bar is the architectural showpiece, its timber ceiling echoing the jagged silhouette of the Brenta Dolomites beyond. As dusk falls, the mountains perform one of nature's great spectacles: enrosadira, the phenomenon that bathes the limestone peaks in shades of coral and crimson. It’s best enjoyed from a window seat with a glass of Trentodoc sparkling wine or a classic Negroni in hand.

Why stay here?

Accommodation comprises 88 suites and 23 private residences, all generously proportioned and designed with understated elegance. Our suite was a blend of alpine warmth and contemporary Italian design: chestnut panelling, buttery leather armchairs, oversized rugs and sculptural lighting softened by a calming palette of taupe, charcoal and cream. A spacious living area included a work desk, generous seating and a large television, while the bedroom featured a king-size bed dressed in crisp Beltrami linens, a second, swivelling, TV and huge sofa positioned to frame the mountain views. Two walk-in wardrobes offered space for ski gear and hiking clothes alike.

The bathroom occupied almost the entire length of the suite and felt more spa than ensuite. Grey marble lined the expansive walk-in shower, and a deep whirlpool bath comfortably accommodated two. A private Finnish sauna, twin vanity areas and Lefay’s signature horse chestnut and verbena toiletries completed the indulgent experience.

The resort’s centrepiece is its 5,000 sq metres spa – one of the largest in the Alps. Inspired by traditional Chinese medicine and the changing seasons, it encompasses a series of thermal experiences including a Finnish sauna, salt grotto, tepidarium, hydrotherapy pools, plunge pools and sensory showers. Quiet relaxation rooms and outdoor terraces are focused firmly on the surrounding peaks, encouraging guests to look up rather than down at their phones. The heated indoor-outdoor infinity pool, complete with massage jets and bubbling hydrotherapy stations, proved the perfect perch for mountain-gazing.

Eating and drinking

Dolomia, the resort’s all-day restaurant, enjoys panoramic mountain views through floor-to-ceiling windows and centres around a striking glass wine cellar showcasing bottles from across Trentino-Alto Adige and beyond. Breakfast is particularly impressive, with fresh pastries, seasonal fruit, local yoghurts, eggs cooked to order and regional cheeses and cured meats. At lunch, hearty mountain dishes share the menu with lighter Mediterranean fare. Standouts included paccheri with slow-cooked white veal ragù, grilled beef entrecôte with roasted potatoes and a richly satisfying Caesar salad topped with prawns. A toasted sandwich filled with locally produced Fontal cheese and sautéed red cabbage elevated comfort food into something more memorable.

Dinner continues the regional theme, with beautifully executed northern Italian cooking. Buckwheat ravioli filled with Prà Fiorito cheese and Swiss chard celebrated local artisanal ingredients, while a refined chicken cacciatore demonstrated impressive restraint. Unmissable desserts included a subtle wild berry cheesecake on a chocolate cookie base.

The culinary highlight, however, is Grual, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant named after the mountain that rises behind the resort. The intimate dining room evokes an alpine woodland at twilight, with deep teal walls, sculptural lighting and stylised tree motifs.

Chef Matteo Maenza builds menus around ingredients sourced from the surrounding valley, mountain pastures and high peaks. It offers tasting menus of eight or 12 courses, but ordering à la carte allows each dish to shine. Red turnip gnocchi paired with smoked ricotta and black tea delivered earthy complexity; rabbit ravioli with candied walnuts and local cheese struck a perfect balance between richness and finesse. A beautifully constructed cocoa millefeuille provided an elegant finale. Service throughout was warm and impeccably judged.

Things to do

The Dolomites take centre stage year-round. During summer, the Pinzolo cable car climbs to Doss del Sabion at 2,100 metres, where panoramic views stretch across the Brenta range and an extensive network of walking trails caters for everyone from casual hikers to experienced mountaineers. Winter transforms the area into part of the Skiarea Campiglio Dolomiti di Brenta, linking the pistes of Pinzolo with Madonna di Campiglio and Folgarida-Marilleva for a combined 150km of skiing. The hotel shuttles skiers to the cable car.

Back in town, Pinzolo remains refreshingly low-key, with weekly markets selling local produce, clothing and handcrafted goods alongside independent cafés serving excellent cappuccini.

The spa treatments are central to the resort and deserve dedicated time in the itinerary. In a private chalet-inspired treatment suite, the Amongst the Forest ritual began with a shared soak in a handcrafted wooden tub before a couples’ massage using aromatic mountain herbs designed to ease tired muscles. The 80-minute Il Cerchio della Luna Anti-Ageing Facial combined Lefay’s botanical skincare range with deeply relaxing massage techniques, and L'Aurora nel Lago invited us to float for 40 minutes in a warm salt pool beneath a star-filled ceiling – unexpectedly meditative and wonderfully calming.

The verdict

Lefay Resort & SPA Dolomiti successfully reimagines the alpine wellness hotel for a modern international audience. The architecture is striking without overwhelming its surroundings; the food celebrates the region with confidence, and the spa itself is reason enough to visit. Whether your idea of a perfect mountain escape involves swooshing down the mountains, hiking through the Brenta Dolomites or simply watching the evening alpenglow from a bubbling outdoor pool, this is one of Italy’s most sophisticated mountain retreats.

Vicki was a guest of Lefay Resort & Spa Dolomiti; lefayresorts.com

A winding five-hour drive from Bhutan’s capital, Thimphu, the Phobjikha Valley is one of the Himalayan kingdom’s most beautiful places, and also a prime spot to see black-necked cranes, said Ian Trower in DestinAsian.

With their striking black-and-white plumage and crimson crowns, these rare birds are “revered” by locals, who call them “birds of heaven”. Conservation efforts have helped boost global numbers from around 6,000 in the 1990s to more than 17,000 today, and each year several hundred overwinter in Phobjikha’s “farm-fringed” wetlands.

Their arrival is celebrated with a festival of folk music and dancing at the 17th-century Gangtey Monastery. Tour operators such as Ampersand and hotels such as the luxurious Gangtey Lodge offer bird-watching walks, and there’s also an exhibition at the valley’s “decagonal” Black-Necked Crane Information Centre. Go between November and mid-March, when the birds return to the Tibetan Plateau for the summer.

Hiking in the mountains of Bavaria

It’s not particularly popular with British visitors, but the Allgäu region of southern Bavaria is a lovely place for summer hiking, said Will Hide in The Times.

On a recent trip, I stayed at the Hubertus Mountain Refugio, a 66-room “wellness resort” with a big spa, an outdoor pool and friendly staff dressed in dirndls and lederhosen. The surrounding Alpine peaks rise above 2,600 metres and allow for lots of long, bracing walks through woods and flower meadows.

For lazier days, there’s plenty of cultural interest within easy reach, including Lake Constance (a 45-minute drive west), the picturesque historic town of Kempten, and Neuschwanstein, the “fairy-tale” palace built by King Ludwig II. Two of his other residences – Hohenschwangau and Linderhof – are also within striking distance.

A coastal walk in northern Cumbria

Few corners of the UK feel as on the edge of things as the north Cumbria coast, a low-lying strip hemmed in by the Lake District fells, said Chris Moss in The Guardian.

It is beautiful but “gritty” too, and scarred by industry in parts, as I discovered on a recent three-day walk along its portion of the England Coast Path. From Maryport (a pleasant town where L.S. Lowry liked to paint), I went south to St Bees Head, with its “spectacular” cliffs, a journey of 23 miles.

Highlights along the way included Workington (a friendly place that “looks as its name sounds”) and Whitehaven, surely one of England’s “loveliest” coastal towns – a former “industrial powerhouse” with “crumbling” grandeur in spades, but which also has a “striking” new hotel, The Edge, an angular, “rust-coloured” building by the sea.

Known for their mild climate and “sandy botany”, the four Charente islands lie just off France’s Atlantic coast. With their “preposterously pretty” harbour towns and great oyster beds and salt marshes, they have long drawn holidaymakers, said Antonia Quirke in Condé Nast Traveller.

But though they “jump with life” from early summer, they retain an “enduring tranquillity” and an “immaculately civilised” air. Best known is the Île de Ré – the second largest, at 33 square miles, and the smartest, favoured by wealthy Parisians and so “utterly Gallic” it feels “as if staged by set dressers”. Oléron – the largest, at 67 square miles – is busier and “less bourgeois”, but it too is “full of fresh air” and “good spirits”, as are Aix and Madame, which are tiny by comparison.

From La Rochelle, it’s a quick drive over the toll bridge to Ré. In its “stylish” main town, Saint-Martin-de-Ré, families stroll along the port and through the “stone-flagged” lanes, where bicycles are propped everywhere below “sun-blistered” shutters.

Equally lovely is the village of Ars-en-Ré, where locals queue for quiche and fruit tarts at the bakery in the main square. Honeysuckle “droops” down terrace walls, and scattered across the countryside beyond are whitewashed cottages “fringed in hollyhocks”. The landscape has a “timeless” quality, with its low horizons, pine forests and vast stretches of sand “the colour of apricots”.

Along the coast, shacks sell a half-dozen “world-class” oysters for a few euros, and there are some wonderful food markets in the towns. Ré has some of the archipelago’s best places to stay, such as Hôtel le Sénéchal and Hôtel de Toiras. But it’s worth spending time on Oléron too, an island that looks “especially astonishing” when approached by boat from Ré.

On a recent trip, I cycled around its “mesmerising” marshes, still “prowled” by paludiers, who harvest salt using wooden hand tools. I also visited the Île d’Aix, where you can tour the villa from which, in 1815, the British took Napoleon off to exile on St Helena.

Rising from the Kazakh steppe – a vast sweep of grassland so flat that the horizon seems to run in a perfectly straight line – Astana has few hills, forests or other natural features to interrupt the view. Yet the city itself is anything but understated. Giant pyramids, sweeping towers, an 150-metre-high tent and one of Central Asia’s largest mosques punctuate the otherwise level landscape, giving the capital a rather theatrical presence.

This is largely because modern Astana is a young capital. It became Kazakhstan’s capital, succeeding Almaty, in 1997, when it was still a relatively small northern city known as Akmola. What followed was a vast programme of construction – with architects from around the world brought in – that turned the northern steppe city into the political and administrative centre that it is today.

The result is a city of striking contrasts. Spend the morning having a look at the ambitious architecture, the afternoon walking beside the Yesil River, and the evening eating horse sausage in a hidden cocktail bar. There is plenty here that is polished and monumental, but some of the best experiences are considerably more ordinary.

Things to do

The best place to understand Astana’s architectural excess is Nurzhol Boulevard, the ceremonial spine of the modern city. The broad 2.5km pedestrian axis runs between the Khan Shatyr shopping centre and the Ak Orda Presidential Palace, passing some of Astana’s most recognisable buildings along the way.

The landmarks arrive in quick succession on a walk along the boulevard: the Presidential Palace, the sweeping headquarters of government ministries and the distinctive Northern Lights (Severnoye Siyaniye) towers – a trio of curving, blue-green glass skyscrapers that appear to lean towards one another. Baiterek Tower stands roughly in the middle, its golden sphere visible from much of the surrounding city. With a viewing platform at 97 metres above the ground and open to visitors, this is the city’s centrepiece, inspired by a Kazakh legend of the tree of life and the mythical bird Samruk.

At the end of the boulevard, it is difficult to miss Khan Shatyr. Norman Foster’s 150-metre-high structure looks like a gigantic translucent tent and is officially the world’s largest tent-shaped building. Inside, however, the concept is much less exotic. It is a shopping and entertainment centre with shops, restaurants, cinemas and an indoor amusement area.

You’ll also find Sky Beach Club here: an indoor beach with imported Maldivian sand, palm trees and warm water. It is a strange but rather enjoyable response to Astana’s climate. In a city where winter temperatures can plunge to brutal levels, the idea of going to the beach without going outside is difficult to argue with. Entry to Sky Beach is expensive, so unless you are desperate for tropical temperatures in the middle of the steppe, it may be enough to admire the architecture and move on.

For a more local scene, head towards the Yesil River. The promenades on either bank make for some of the city’s nicest walking and cycling, flanked by coffee, boba and ice cream shops aplenty. The Atyrau Bridge, a pedestrian and cycle bridge built as a gift from the Atyrau Region for the capital’s 20th anniversary, links the two sides with a striking structure inspired by a sturgeon fish, referring to Atyrau region’s Caspian fishing heritage. During the summer, the river also becomes a cooling-off spot for the locals. The Gorodskoy Plyazh, or city beach, is a designated swimming area in Central Park, and on warm afternoons it fills up quickly.

For another reminder of the scale of the new Astana, visit the Nursultan Mosque. Opened in 2022, it is the largest mosque in Central Asia, with four 130-metre minarets surrounding a huge blue-and-white dome that can accommodate more than 30,000 worshippers. One of the minarets has a lift to observation decks at 90 and 110 metres, offering an unusually good perspective on the city.

Over the other side of the river, Saryarka, one of the older districts, is a useful antidote to the monumentalism of the new capital. The historic centre has an old square, fountains and a collection of low-rise buildings, including several former merchant houses, like that of Matvei Kubrin, built in the early 20th century and now occupied by a supermarket. Other buildings associated with the Kubrin family have been converted for different uses, their survival offering a glimpse of the commercial town that existed here before Astana became a capital.

The Holy Assumption Cathedral – one of the city’s major Russian Orthodox landmarks – is yet another reminder of Astana’s layered identity, bringing a very different architectural vocabulary to the streets. Meanwhile, the Wall of Peace is a small but interesting monument to the city’s role as a venue for international religious and diplomatic dialogue. Neither needs hours of sightseeing, but both help discredit the idea that Astana is simply a city of shiny new buildings.

Astana’s surroundings are considerably greener than the city itself. Burabay National Park, about three hours away by train, makes an easy day trip. Take an early train to Borovoe station and arrange a taxi to take you around the park. The landscape changes quickly and pine forests, granite hills and clear lakes replace the flat steppe around Astana.

Hike Bolektau Peak for views over Burabay and the Chebachye Lakes, go boating on Burabay Lake, or rent a bike to explore some of the area’s extensive cycling trails. In summer, Chebachye is also a popular swimming spot.

There are several stops worth building into the day. Aqmaral deer farm collects naturally shed antlers for use in traditional medicine, while Sokolov’s cheese farm produces around 38 varieties using Italian techniques, with wheels of mature cheeses including a 31-month-old Montasio ageing on wooden racks in a cool storeroom.

For lunch or breakfast, Tary Café’s signature breakfast – featuring qatlam, a flaky pastry filled with cheese, qazy horse-meat sausage, eggs, ayran cheese dip and tea made from zhide, or oleaster berries – is particularly good. The cafe overlooks the lake and pine forest, making it an especially pleasant place to eat after arriving by train.

Eating and drinking

Astana has a growing restaurant and bar scene, although it is still considerably smaller than Almaty’s. Qazaq Gourmet is a good introduction to contemporary Kazakh cooking in a polished setting with wine pairings. The restaurant’s menu combines traditional recipes from around Kazakhstan with modern techniques, and their 11-course Ómir tasting menu uses individual dishes to explore different aspects of Kazakhstan’s culinary and cultural traditions.

Line Brew has been part of Astana’s dining scene since 1997, and is best known for its house-brewed beer, with the line-up ranging from a straightforward premium lager to fruitier pomegranate, raspberry-lime, wild strawberry and blackcurrant brews. Its sprawling menu runs from Burgundian-style escargots, to steaks and dry-aged beef.

For cocktails, Temple Bar is considerably more clandestine. There is no obvious sign, and the entrance looks sufficiently like a janitor’s cupboard that you may wonder whether you have taken a wrong turn. Once inside, red velvet curtains open into a dim, living-room-like space furnished with mismatched sofas and lamps. There is no cocktail menu. Instead, the bartender asks what spirit you like, what flavours you want and how strong you want the drink to be. Ask for something spicy and sour with tequila and you might end up with a clarified coriander cocktail, suspiciously close to exactly what you wanted. The bar also serves zhaya, made from the salted, cured, and smoked or dried meat of a horse’s rump. Astana, it seems, is quite happy to be futuristic and traditional at the same time.

Where to stay

The Hilton Garden Inn Astana is a comfortable base for your visit to the Kazakh capital. It is centrally located, making it relatively easy to reach the main sights, while its rooms and service offer a level of comfort that feels more expensive than the rates suggest. The Russian and Turkish steam rooms are a welcome place to unwind after a full day of crossing Astana’s enormous distances.

Avantika was a guest of Visit Astana and Visit Aqmola.

Andy Burnham will give England’s mayors the power to introduce an uncapped tourist tax. This will be set as a percentage cost of accommodation – rather than a flat fee – at the discretion of regional leaders. Housing Minister Angela Rayner chaired a virtual meeting at No. 10 North today to discuss the tax.

The plans were initially announced under Keir Starmer’s government at the last Budget and outlined in the King’s Speech in May. In his first speech as prime minister, Burnham committed to starting the scheme towards the end of the 2027-28 financial year.

This tax could “raise hundreds of millions of pounds” for local public services, said The Guardian. But it could also be a “blow for the hospitality industry”, already “squeezed by tax rises and extra employment costs”.

Where would the money go?

A tourist tax would allow mayors to “prop up crumbling local authority finances and invest cash back into the area”, said The Telegraph.

Local authorities are already facing a financial “crisis”, with a “record 35 councils now relying on £1.5 billion of emergency government financial support to balance their books”. This would also allow the 14 regional mayors in England a new “revenue-raising stream”, especially when they are unable to raise council tax bills, which is still a council-level decision.

This is part of Burnham’s “wider devolution agenda”, said The Times. He has also been a long-standing supporter of overnight levies, implementing a “city visitor charge” in April 2023 while he was mayor of Greater Manchester. It consisted of a £1 per room per night fee, which was designed to “pay for measures aimed at attracting more visitors”.

Does this happen elsewhere?

A tourist tax, or overnight levy, already exists in some parts of the UK. After Holyrood passed a law permitting the levies in 2024, Edinburgh introduced a 5% overnight rate this summer, capped at five nights. Glasgow also has a 5% rate, while Aberdeen’s is 7%. However, these rates are at the discretion of local authorities, with no central cap.

In Wales, a capped levy of £1.30 per person per night will be introduced in April 2027. This is reduced to 75p for hostels and campsites. The cities of Manchester and Liverpool also have voluntary schemes, of a £1 and £2 per room per night charge.

Across the world, major cities such as New York, Amsterdam and Rome all employ variations of a tourist tax. Berlin also applies a 7.5% tax on accommodation costs, while Paris has a tax based on the type of accommodation. For an overnight stay in a two-star hotel, for example, there is a €3.25 (£2.86) charge, and for a four-star hotel the rate is €8.45 (£7.43). Lisbon, however, levies a flat rate of €4.00 (£3.52), up to a maximum of seven nights.

How will it affect the hospitality industry?

Implementing these taxes is “not going to be painless”, Allen Simpson, chief executive of UKHospitality, told BBC Radio 4’s “Today” programme. He claimed it would add roughly £100 to £120 to the average cost of a family holiday, and feared that by devolving only one tax-raising power, mayors would “pull that lever until it snaps”.

Simpson’s trade body also claimed the move would cost 33,000 jobs and cause a £2.2 billion hit to the UK’s GDP. Other global destinations with a cap on their tourist charges have much lower VAT rates than the UK.

New Conservative shadow chancellor Andrew Griffith said that an uncapped tourist tax would be “hugely limiting for the chances of the young people who might otherwise be employed in tourism and hospitality”. It would also be “utterly wrong” to use the funds for “propping up dodgy town hall finances on the back of even higher youth unemployment”.

However, Mayor of London Sadiq Khan welcomed the proposal, arguing that a “well-designed, modest” overnight visitor charge would “raise and invest funding locally”.

Sweden’s “second city”, Gothenburg, is less crowded than Stockholm and, thanks to the “icy, clean water surrounding the coast” is known for its excellent seafood, said Arielle Domb in The Independent.

Located on the country’s southwest coast, at the mouth of the River Göta, the city has been a “crucial” destination for the fish and shellfish trade since the 18th century. Its daily indoor fish market, Feskekörka, is still open today. Housed within a building that resembles a church with “pointed Gothic arch windows”, you’ll discover “vibrant fish stalls” selling everything from lobsters and crayfish to whole salmon. A two-day seafood festival “celebrating west coast ingredients” takes place every September, this year from 18 to 19.

Gothenburg is “brimming” with trendy restaurants and coffee shops. Bar Bulot is a lovely spot for natural wines and seafood dishes like “delicate halibut ceviche with thin slices of melon” or “oyster with a tangy tapioca mignonette”. For a really “exquisite” meal try Champagnebaren, where you can feast on “edible flower-decorated dishes that look like paintings”. And if you feel like a cocktail after dinner, head to the “stylish” bars Bruno or Unity Jazz, both “around the corner”.

If the city has one “must-see district” it has to be Haga, said Alicia Miller in National Geographic. Grab some salty liquorice at Lakritsroten to munch while you explore the “cobbled streets and cute boutiques”, and stop to browse in the antiques shops.

There is “nothing more Swedish” than fika – slowing down for the country’s cherished “coffee-and-cake ritual”. If you want to “feel like a local” go to “sip artisanal coffee” at da Matteo on the central shopping street of Magasinsgatan before buying a sourdough cinnamon bun from Alvar & Ivar to “nibble in Slottsskogen park”.

To “get to grips” with the city’s history, consider spending an afternoon at the Museum of Gothenburg which is “primely placed in the 18th-century former Swedish East India Company headquarters, on the banks of Stora Hamnkanalen” (Great Harbour Canal).

Perhaps best of all, Gothenburg is within easy reach of a “beguiling” archipelago, said Lizzie Frainier in The Times. Vrångö, the southernmost inhabited island, is just a 30-minute ferry ride from Saltholmen port. With fewer than 400 residents, it’s home to two “ruggedly beautiful” nature reserves, each with its own hiking trail. There is only one hotel on the island – Kajkanten Vrångö – where traditional boat houses have been transformed into pared-back “self-catering” accommodation that look out over the water. Order a seafood hamper from nearby Fiskeboa to enjoy the “sweetest langoustines you will ever taste”.

Home to the world’s largest Japanese diaspora, as well as sizeable Korean and Chinese communities, the Brazilian megacity of São Paulo is one of the best places outside Asia to enjoy Asian food, said Austin Bush in Travel + Leisure.

In the thriving Japanese district of Liberdade, where street lamps resemble torii gates, beloved old izakaya (Japanese pubs) rub shoulders with stalls selling Japanese-Brazilian street food such as hot rolls – breaded, deep-fried sushi.

The nearby district of Bom Retiro has a similar concentration of Korean bars and restaurants. And, in recent years, a new culinary wave has emerged, as chefs create bold fusion dishes or, more subtly, adapt Japanese recipes to uniquely Brazilian produce, from Amazon river fish to jambu, a tongue-tingling herb. Among the finest exponents of these trends are the “highly acclaimed” Kotori, Aizomê, Kanoe and Goya Zushi – restaurants as exciting and distinctive as any in the city.

A Croatian island without the crowds

Croatia’s best-known islands (Hvar, Korčula and so on) lie in its far south, but there are plenty of others, many of which are beautiful but much less touristy. Among them is Dugi Otok, said Mark Palmer in The Times – a verdant, 26-mile-long sliver of limestone that lies an easy ferry ride from the fascinating harbour town of Zadar.

Take a boat tour of the nearby Kornati National Park, an “otherworldly” wilderness of stark, arid islands criss-crossed with ancient stone walls. And be sure to spend some time in Zadar itself (I can recommend the Hotel Bastion), an elegant place with some lovely museums and architectural “treasures”, including impressive Roman remains.

A week-long walk in the eastern Alps

An “epic” 466-mile hiking path, the Alpe-Adria-Trail runs from Austria, via Slovenia, to Italy’s Adriatic coast. For anyone wanting to see the magnificent Alpine landscapes through which it passes, however, there’s an easier option, said Paul Bloomfield in The Telegraph: the Alpe-Adria Circular. This 83-mile circuit passes through all three countries, offering an intriguing sample of their overlapping cultures, and is usually done in a week (Walks Worldwide has a self-guided eight-day package, with luggage transfers, from £895).

Most walkers start in the Austrian town of Villach, from which the path winds through wildflower meadows and beechwoods to “chocolate-box” Alpine pastures, “teal-emerald” lakes and photogenic hamlets such as Borgo Lussari in Italy. The highest point is the 6,043ft summit of the Schwarzkogel, with spectacular views of the Julian Alps – including Triglav, the triple-peaked mountain that adorns the Slovenian flag.

A remote town of some 900 souls beside Hudson Bay in Canada, Churchill is known as the “polar bear capital of the world”. Every autumn, as the bay freezes, hundreds of these bears gather around it before heading out across the ice, and thousands of tourists come to see them. But Churchill also hosts another annual wildlife spectacle, said Oliver Smith in the Financial Times – one that attracts fewer visitors but is equally worth seeing.

Each summer, thousands of beluga whales migrate to the mouth of the Churchill River, to feed on small fish and nurse their young. These pale cetaceans, which grow up to 18ft long, look from a distance like countless “white-topped waves” in the river (which is more than a mile wide here), and visitors can safely kayak and paddleboard among them.

Churchill is inaccessible by road, so I flew there in a prop plane from Winnipeg, admiring the “vastness” below, where sunlight danced on rivers, and the forest gradually gave way to tundra. (You can also travel by train – a two-day journey.)

The “wind-harassed” town sits in pancake-flat surroundings studded with “landmarks of rust and ruin” – the wrecks of a cargo plane and a steamship, the remains of an old rocket research facility, and so on. I stayed at the Churchill Northern Studies Centre, where lay visitors mingle with research scientists.

My six-day Belugas for the Bold itinerary included shared accommodation, guided nature walks, lectures on ecology and indigenous culture, and water activities. The town’s museum has beautiful indigenous artefacts, and on walks you will see lovely flora and might spot polar bears.

But most wondrous is the chance to see the belugas. Apparently, they are sometimes “mischievous” enough to tip paddlers into the water, but I felt a great sense of peace among them. So low to the water, I could “almost sense the stroke and whip of each flipper”, and every time a curious whale surfaced, I felt a “jolt of surprise, as though aquarium glass were fracturing”.

The trip costs from £2,075, excluding flights (churchillscience.ca).

When it comes to weekend breaks, a good location is essential. It doesn’t matter whether the hotel is perfect – if the surroundings leave something to be desired, you’ll find yourself longing to get home. Luckily, Woodstock is charming. Just eight miles from Oxford on the eastern edge of the Cotswolds, the pretty market town is lined with traditional stone cottages, old pubs and bakeries.

On a quiet road close to the centre lies The Feathers. Tucked amid 17th-century townhouses, it looks fairly unassuming. But when you step through the doors, it’s clear that this is a swanky spot. Local property developer Daniel Ede bought the hotel in 2023 before carrying out a multi-million-pound revamp. Fast-forward to today and the hotel has an air of confidence: a collection of awards are proudly displayed on a chest in the reception area.

Why stay here?

The location is outstanding. We went for a short walk before dinner and stumbled upon the grounds of Blenheim Palace, where families lounge with picnics on the grassy slopes overlooking the lake.

Back at the hotel, the calming interiors encourage proper rest and relaxation. Our generously sized room – the Goldcrest Suite – had been carefully renovated with plush grey carpets, gilded mirrors and an enormous (and very comfy) king-size bed framed by flowing white drapes.

The layout felt a little unusual – a mini-sofa and TV were tucked awkwardly behind a semi-dividing wall, and the freestanding bathtub is in the main room, although you can pull across a golden chinoiserie-style folding screen for privacy. (There’s also a separate bathroom, with a shower, stocked with Urban Apothecary fig-scented toiletries.) This is likely due to the nature of the rambling Grade II listed building: the total of 23 suites and rooms vary in shape and size.

Thoughtful touches were everywhere, from the carefully selected tapestries adorning the walls to the tasty snacks laid out for our arrival including slices of lemon drizzle cake. Efforts have clearly been made to preserve the building’s historic details like the stone fireplace, while rooms have been updated with modern touches.

Eating and drinking

The Nest is a fun spot for dinner. Glowing wicker lamps sit atop marble tables in the bustling wood-panelled restaurant. Staff are attentive and knowledgeable but unobtrusive, and the cocktails are excellent. The menu changes with the seasons: we enjoyed a goat’s curd and parmesan tart bursting with sweet, juicy Isle of Wight tomatoes and flaky pan-roasted hake served with a decadent vadouvan curry sauce, tiger prawns and fennel shavings. Be sure to order a side of the crispy potatoes and the zingy herb salad. The Cotswolds sourdough rolls with whipped butter were a nice touch, too. If you’re looking for something more casual, head to The Aviary bar and outdoor terrace for pizzas and small plates.

Breakfast is served at The Nest. There’s a selection of fresh juices, pastries and muffins, alongside heartier classics like the full English, or smoked salmon sourdough crumpets.

Things to do

You won’t find a gym, spa or pool at The Feathers, but there’s plenty to do nearby. Keen walkers can set out on foot into the grounds of Blenheim Palace to soak up the stunning scenery. Afterwards, head back into Woodstock for ice cream at Alfonso Gelataria on the high street.

Oxford is a short drive away; consider a day trip to the historic city to wander through the colleges, go punting along the River Cherwell, or while away an afternoon in one of the many pubs or cafes.

The verdict

The Feathers ticks a lot of boxes for a weekend break. It was a cool, calming refuge when we visited during one of the many summer heatwaves, but come autumn it will be cosy and inviting. This is the type of place you leave feeling exactly as you should: well-rested, refreshed and relaxed.

Irenie was a guest of The Feathers, feathers.co.uk

Midnight sun is a simple enough concept in theory, but it’s oddly disorientating in practice. I was almost a thousand miles north of Iceland, closer to the North Pole than to Reykjavik, and I knew the summer days would last all night. But my eyes or mind (or maybe even my soul) just wouldn’t stop waiting for dusk.

On overcast afternoons, the sky often brightened as the evening wore on, as if the world were turning in reverse. Sometimes, long after a sensible bedtime, the sun would break through the cloud for the first time that day. I took photos, but they didn’t capture the weirdness. They couldn’t, of course, because the sense of weirdness came from within – from my body clock and its sense of how the world had always worked, until that moment. Now, thrillingly, it seemed that all bets were off.

Under the skin of the Arctic

It’s a soulful place, Svalbard, all rock and ice and sky. The peaks are dark and snow-capped, the valleys deep and glacial. Sometimes photos come out black and white even when you take them in colour. The sea, rarely out of sight, has many moods: near the glaciers, it is flat and milky from the minerals released after centuries trapped in ice. Further out in the fjord, it is black, glossy and angular. Our guide steered skilfully through the swell and we pitched, rolled and occasionally crashed our way through the white-frothed waves.

We were on our way to Isfjord Radio, a historic communications station that directed transatlantic shipping and air traffic from 1933 until GPS rendered it obsolete in 1999. The historic buildings once occupied by radio operators now house guests of Basecamp Explorer, which runs a range of Arctic adventures on Spitsbergen, the largest of Svalbard’s islands. Rugged exteriors and simply furnished rooms are warmed by the exceptional hospitality of the Basecamp crew, who conjure up sophisticated tasting menus featuring Arctic fish and game. Reindeer tartare with fig and black sesame was one of the highlights; a smoky seal yakitori was another.

I had spent the previous two nights at Nordenskiöld Lodge, the most remote of the three Basecamp Explorer properties, and indeed the world’s northernmost commercial accommodation. You are totally off-grid here, relying on solar panels and a log-fired stove (and sauna). Home-cooked meals are prepared by your hosts, whose responsibilities also include taking a dinghy out to the nearby glacier and hauling in boulder-sized chunks of ice to melt down for drinking water and cooking.

A Svalbard safari

Every visitor wants to see a polar bear, but only a few will be lucky. I almost was, which felt unluckier still: the day after I left, a mother and her two cubs wandered past Isfjord Radio. (The day before that, one member of my group had spotted a whiteish bear-shaped object, some distance away, amid a field of dark gravel and moss. “I cannot be certain it’s a rock,” our guide said, lowering her binoculars. So maybe I had been lucky after all.)

They may be hard to find but polar bears are common enough, and dangerous enough, that armed guides are compulsory anywhere outside Longyearbyen, the archipelago’s largest town (which is not that large – its population of 2,100 is outnumbered by the bears). In the town itself you may see Arctic foxes, patrolling the lower slopes of the valley, and dozens of geese. At sea, eider ducks are common, puffins slightly less so, but you will see them from time to time, flapping alongside the boat. They seem to work hard to stay in the air, unlike the elegant Arctic terns that soar high above.

We saw seals, too, lounging on little icebergs, and reindeer, both from the boat, as they meandered along the shore, and on land, as we hiked to a walrus colony. Our most memorable encounter was with a pod of minke whales. We had, in theory, finished sightseeing and were motoring back to the lodge when a gyre of gulls caught our guide’s eye. Soon we saw fins, and then a whole head lurching out of the water in front of us, its throat swollen with seawater and fish. We spent an hour with them, watching them dive and then surface again in some unexpected place. The backdrop was spectacular too: black hills in the distance under billowing clouds.

A seasonal adventure

Summer and winter deliver two different Svalbards. In one, you will cross dark, frozen seas by snowmobile and race through valleys with a pack of huskies. In the other, the dogs pull a wheeled cart rather than a sledge, and you have to stick to gravel tracks – but you can kayak in the shadow of a glacier, dodging the remnants of the pack ice.

One constant is the promise of a sauna (and an icy plunge) at the end of the day. The other, at Nordenskiöld Lodge, is the glacier. Just a few hundred metres from the cabin, it’s your constant companion – and impossible to ignore. Sometimes it was the creak or rumble of ancient ice that caught my attention, but I was drawn to it when it was quiet too. Each time I looked it seemed a little different: the packed snow deeper blue or brighter white, the ice cliff more or less forbidding.

Hiking high on to its plateau revealed previously hidden textures. Crags barely visible from the ground reared up above us, and deep crevasses fell away below. With spikes strapped to our boots and icepicks in hand, we climbed ridges, followed frozen streams and rested by an eerily blue lake.

The sun was obscured by leaden clouds, but the glare was strong. Night would not return to these slopes until the first, fleeting sunset of the autumn, six weeks later. By then the glacier would have received a fresh coating of snow, the sea temperature would be falling again and the residents of Svalbard would be readying themselves for the long polar night.

Holden Frith was a guest of Basecamp Explorer. The company’s seven-day signature summer adventure is £7,450 / $10,090 per person, based on two people sharing, including all meals, activities and boat transfers.

Great Yarmouth’s Britannia Pier bagged the top prize at the National Piers Society’s annual Pier of the Year competition – and it’s easy to see why. With a rich history dating back to 1858, the pier has recently undergone a serious renovation and now features two on-site pubs, food stalls, various rides and one of the country’s few surviving pier theatres. But there are plenty of other piers for a fun family day out. Here are some of our favourites.

Llandudno Pier, Conwy

Last year’s Pier of the Year winner was this “splendidly Victorian” structure in north Wales, said The Sunday Times. Stretching 2,295ft into the Irish Sea, it “takes a fair bashing” from the elements. There’s a Ferris wheel at the landward end and benches dotted all along it for visitors to contemplate the “beauties of the bay on one side and the massive limestone headland of Great Orme on the other”.

Clevedon Pier, Somerset

If it’s beauty you’re after, head to Clevedon Pier in north Somerset. Opened in 1869 “to receive paddle steamer passengers from Devon and Wales”, it’s England’s only Grade I-listed pier made with “discarded wrought iron railway lines shaped into eight arches” almost 15 metres high, said The Guardian. “Clevedon without its pier would be like a diamond with a flaw,” the then poet laureate John Betjeman said during a campaign to save it from demolition in 1980.

Southwold Pier, Suffolk

Southwold remains “delightfully unspoilt”, said Cambridgeshire Live. Expect “colourful beach huts”, a working lighthouse and an Edwardian pier stretching into the North Sea that’s “packed with entertainment, shops and eateries”. It’s perhaps one of the UK’s “most eccentric” piers thanks to the arcade of “wacky” slot machines designed by inventor Tim Hunkin that provide “endless seaside fun”.

Blackpool piers, Lancashire

Blackpool is the “proud home” of three piers, said The Guardian. The oldest surviving is the Grade II-listed North Pier, which features an “art-deco theatre, a two-tier carousel, bars and an arcade”. On the Central Pier you’ll find the big wheel and a bar with live shows, while the South Pier promises a “high-octane funfair” with a rollercoaster and reverse bungee ride. Just watch out for seagulls when you stop for fish and chips.