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“As Brits battle the country’s often-dire rail network”, railway pubs are sometimes the only thing that “keeps us sane amid countless delays, cancellations and strikes”, said Ed Cunningham on Time Out. If you find yourself at a loose end, or in need of travel refreshment, here are some of the best places across the country for a railway pint.

Tap on the Line, Kew, London

“Perched right on the platform at Kew Gardens station is a charming little boozer,” said Katie Forge on Secret London. London is known for its quirky pubs but few are this “unique”. The Tap on the Line (pictured above) is the only pub in the capital which sits directly on a tube station platform, and is one of the last remaining 19th-century stations. “It’s one of the very few places in the city where you can see your train coming, sink your pint, and still be on board by the time the train is ready to depart”. It also has regular live music, pub quizzes and a “wonderful atmosphere”.

The Sheffield Tap, Sheffield

“By my estimation the best station pub in Britain, the Sheffield Tap even stands out in a city full of excellent places for a pint,” said Will Hawkes in The Telegraph. This “Edwardian treasure” has been carved out of the station’s former “Refreshment Rooms”. It had been lying derelict until the mid-1970s, but has been given a second lease of life. It oozes class with a “mahogany bar, ornate barrel-plaster ceiling and terrazzo floor”, and even has a brewery in the “magnificent inner room”, which used to be the first class dining room. “A very elegant place for a pint indeed”.

Scott & Brassey, Carlisle, Cumbria

The Scott & Brassey has only been open since February, said Rachel Dixon in The Guardian, but you can still feel the history of the site. Its predecessor, the 301 Miles From London, closed in 2023, and customers can enjoy the same spot on platform 4, now with a “slick makeover”. There’s still the same original wooden entrance lobby, “hammerbeam roof and Tudor-style stone fireplaces”. Eight handpumps line the mahogany bar, and the feature wall behind is full of clocks, so there’s “no excuse for missing your train”.

Bank of Conwy, Conwy, North Wales

This warm, welcoming pub is across the road from the station at the “heart of this beautiful seaside town with a castle overlooking the harbour”, said Phil Mellows in The i Paper. It has been open since 2015, and has “warmly embraced modern craft beer”, with local favourites from Wild Horse Brewing down the coast at Llandudno. The building itself is a “nicely restored Grade II-listed former bank”, and has plenty of good cask ales on the pumps too, for “those of a more traditional disposition”.

The beauty of Lisbon’s pastel-hued architecture is one of the Portuguese capital’s major draws. Travellers enticed by beautiful surroundings would do well to stay at the newly opened Tarabel Lisbon, a luxury boutique hotel that prides itself on its decor. When you walk in, you’re greeted by an enormous antique birdcage wrought in the shape of a palace, with faux birds perched on top. This playful sensibility sets the tone for your stay.

Why stay here?

Situated on a hill in the Estrela neighbourhood, the Tarabel has no bad views. On one side, the former townhouse faces the splendour of the US Embassy building and its gardens. The other looks out at the show-stopping expanse of the Tagus estuary: the 25 de Abril Bridge, the Port of Lisbon, and the huge Christ the King monument across the river in Almada. An entire evening can be spent just sitting on the terrace with a glass of wine, watching the boats and cruise ships go by.

Tarabel’s impeccably manicured garden is on an incline, and is split into levels that naturally carve the space into smaller, intimate sitting areas. Parakeets – real this time – fly overhead and perch in the trees lining the garden. At the bottom is the emerald-green pool, providing guests with welcome respite from the heat. Bright white and yellow parasols complement the lush foliage, and looking up toward the hotel from the bottom of the garden you can see the large-scale tile artwork conceptualised by the owner and designer, a love letter to the azulejos (traditional ceramic tiles) of Lisbon.

The rooms

Rooms are spacious and luxurious. Most of the furniture comes from the owner’s personal collection, gathered over the course of a lifetime from visits to flea markets all over Europe. A trefoil side-table from Portobello Market sits next to a rococo settee from Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, stripped and reupholstered in a modern fabric. The Tarabel also borrows some styling choices from its sister location in Morocco, such as the pleated rattan accents and the occasional white-painted lattice woodwork.

Although bright whites dominate the hotel’s design, the warmth of unvarnished wood furniture does much to temper its starkness, and judicious use of pops of colour – fresh greens, yellows and florals – gives visual interest to the luxe space. Surprising, quirky additions are peppered throughout, such as a small trompe l’oeil ceiling fresco of a conservatory roof, complete with climbing roses and birds. It’s the attention to detail that makes this gathering of unique pieces work.

Eating and drinking

The quaint collection of flea-market finds extends to the cutlery and tableware, down to the miniature silver-lidded salt shakers. Everything is served on antique porcelain, mis-matched in design, yet unified in style.

The menu at Tarabel is a fusion of Portuguese, French and Italian cooking, with offerings sure to please most palates. The starters opened strongly: the fresh hamachi sourced from the Azores was buttery and tender, and the scoop of homemade basil sorbet perched on the tomato carpaccio was surprisingly delightful. The chicken’s accompaniment of roasted and pickled vegetables provided a light, pleasant contrast to the meat.

The standout dish, however, was the juicy scarlet prawns on a bed of creamy, lemony Portuguese rice. It exemplified the principles of Portuguese cooking: simple, unfussy flavour profiles and a focus on high-quality ingredients. It’s a must-try dish for any seafood lovers. Desserts are delicious and uncomplicated. Chocolate moelleux and tropical sorbet, both elevated with a flavoured crumble (cardamom and lime, respectively) finished off the meal with a satisfying hit of sweetness.

The staff are attentive and put in a lot of effort, ready to share tips and favourite restaurants, and really go the extra mile to make your stay pleasant and memorable. I took a croissant from the breakfast spread to my room to have later, only to find that after a few hours it had been replaced on the (now clingfilm-wrapped) plate by two pastries.

Things to do

While there’s no shortage of things to do in central Lisbon, the hotel’s location encourages a trip west, to the historic district of Belém. There, a short walk along the waterfront can take you from the Belém Tower to the Monument of Discoveries, and the luscious Vasco da Gama garden. The stunning Jerónimos Monastery nearby is also well worth a visit, and as a reward for a hard day of sightseeing, right next door you can try the original pastel de nata at Pastéis de Belém, the bakery that created the world-famous egg custard tart in 1837.

The verdict

Tarabel’s design sensibility fits right in with the beauty of Lisbon’s architecture, and if you’re looking for a room with a view of the river, there’s few places where you could do better. Whether in a plush suite or poolside, the hotel offers a wonderful place to rest whenever you’re not exploring Lisbon.

Julia was a guest of Tarabel Lisbon; tarabellisbon.com

The Costa del Sol has had a bad rap. The ultimate package holiday destination, its name was once synonymous with mass tourism, cheap deals and expats seeking sun. But those days are over.

The 93-mile stretch of Mediterranean coastline in southern Andalusia has gone upmarket and repositioned itself as a year-round destination with an average of 320 days of sun annually. Five-star hotels are opening further down the coast away from Marbella’s flashy nightclubs, and attention has turned from the region’s famous beaches and golf courses to its whitewashed mountain villages, natural parks and cultural sights, including Málaga, with its Moorish architecture, art scene and huge range of museums.

Fairmont La Hacienda Costa del Sol – the only Fairmont property in Spain and which opened in 2025 – is at the forefront of the region’s reinvention and has recently added a new beach club. Unlike so many hotels there, it doesn’t close after the summer making it a great choice for winter sun.

Why stay here?

To switch off and enjoy the sea views with plenty of pampering. The hotel is on a quieter stretch of coast on the border of the lesser known Costa de la Luz, between Sotogrande and Gibraltar. If you’ve heard horror stories about the queues to register for the EU’s Entry/Exit System at busy Málaga airport, you can easily swerve them by flying to less crowded Gibraltar instead, just half an hour away.

Fairmont La Hacienda is on a hillside overlooking the Mediterranean, a golf course and the distinctive Rock of Gibraltar itself. On a clear day, you can even see Morocco. Cleverly, the whole resort is upside down to maximise the spectacular views through a wall of glass in the top-floor lobby. Rooms are below and the pools and gardens on the ground floor – though this does make the lifts a little confusing as numbers go up even though floors go down.

It’s all impossibly chic inside – shades of white and biscuit-brown with warm wooden furniture, dark green plants and rattan lamps. Corridors are cavernous and there’s space and dappled light everywhere, with lingering airport niggles soothed as soon as you walk in the door by staff proffering cold towels and fresh juice.

There’s no bad – or small – room. All 150 king rooms have private terraces, with pale woods and décor in cool taupe shades, while some of the suites have plunge pools, private gardens or two bedrooms. If you fancy more space, there are 47 villas scattered around the grounds with between four and nine bedrooms each plus full kitchens. All have a sleek minimal feel, with jute rugs and linen cushions adding just a touch of colour to the all-neutral palette. Marble bathrooms have pricey Le Labo products and my signature sea view studio suite had a free-standing bath almost big enough to swim in, plus a bath pillow and wooden bath rack with space to hold a wine glass. It was quite tempting not to leave the room at all.

Eating and drinking

Food is a major focus. I felt like I was never more than a few minutes away from a platter of jamon croquettes or a bowl of juicy green olives. My favourite restaurant was Umbra, a poolside spot shaded by a bamboo ceiling and dotted with plants, which has a tapas-style menu of patatas bravas, fried calamari, prawn tacos and delicious roasted aubergine with sugar cane honey. Dishes can also be ordered straight to your lounger if walking the few steps from the pool feels like too much effort. Similarly, if you’re snoozing on the Blue Flag-certified beach, there’s no need to go far as the hotel’s new seasonal beach club La Cala de La Hacienda has Mediterranean dishes including gazpacho, grilled king prawns and burrata salad, washed down with a glass of cold Spanish albariño wine.

Back in the main hotel building, Il Faro Trattoria has sweeping sea views from its terrace and serves Italian classics including pizza and pasta. Desserts are the real stars of the show, with include limoncello sorbet with Italian meringue, mango and basil panna cotta and tiramisu all featuring. This is also the place for breakfast – a generous buffet of pastries, eggs, fruit and cheese. It’s worth arriving before 9am to avoid waiting for a table (and to try to nab one on the terrace).

However, the fine-dining restaurant Dalmar is the ultimate foodie destination if you’re hoping for a special occasion meal. Overseen by Benito Gómez, whose Ronda restaurant Bardal has two Michelin stars, it specialises in elegant Andalusian dishes such as marinated anchovies, chargrilled avocado with a spicy corn and vanilla dressing, and chicken roasted in a mushroom fricassee, all interspersed with tasty unexpected treats and served alongside local wines.

Things to do

Most guests do little more than walk on the beach, doze in the poolside cabanas or pop to the gorgeous spa, which has a range of hydrotherapy pools, a heated indoor pool, cold plunge baths, two hammams and a salt inhalation room for even more relaxing. There’s also a padel court, a 24-hour sea-view gym and a yoga studio with a resident teacher for those who really can’t sit still, while the neighbouring golf course is one of the best in Spain.

To explore further, the hotel can arrange trips to lively Marbella, the village of Jimena de la Frontera with its eighth-century castle or to Gibraltar, which is even easier to get to since the border crossing was removed as part of a new treaty in July. I headed to smart Sotogrande to tour the coastline by catamaran, watching dolphins swimming alongside the boat over a glass of cava then plunging off the back of the boat for a swim in the shadow of the Rock of Gibraltar.

The verdict

This stylish hotel has all you need for a do-nothing getaway, from its soothing décor and sea-view pools to its cossetting spa and impressive restaurants. Better still, it’s just a short flight away whenever a weekend reset is long overdue.

Siobhan Grogan was a guest of Fairmont La Hacienda Costa del Sol

Created in the 17th century, Japan’s Fujiko faith fuses Shinto and esoteric Buddhism in its reverence for Mount Fuji, the country’s highest peak. The faith still has some adherents, and visitors can join their pilgrimages, says Kate Crockett in Condé Nast Traveller, hiking 2,300 metres up the mountain’s lower slopes to the point, accessible by road, from which most climbers head out for the 3,776m summit. It’s a “soothing” one-day walk through ancient forests, which offers “tantalising” views of Fuji’s “snow-capped” peak, and stops at shrines along the way. You can do part of the route on horseback, and it’s worth staying longer, to visit other holy sites and sample the region’s “elegant” old pilgrims’ lodges – and perhaps the new luxury retreat Gora Kadan Fuji, with its “restorative” outdoor bath.

A four-day trip costs from £2,950pp, half-board (kammui.com)

The charm of Croatia’s “little Tuscany”

Most visitors to Croatia head for the “scrubby” and “sun-bleached” mountains and islands of Dalmatia. Set far inland, the rolling Samobor Hills are a different world entirely, said Mary Novakovich in The Guardian. Here, you’ll find a lush, “harmonious” landscape that could “out-Tuscany Tuscany”. The area is criss-crossed by forested trails, particularly in the Žumberak Nature Park, where residents of nearby Zagreb come to hike and bike at weekends. But the hills also offer less strenuous pleasures, including wineries known for their “elegant” sparkling wines. More than three dozen of these lie along the circular Plešivica Wine Road, including the “bucolic” 18th-century Griffin, and the “serene” Korak, which has a refreshingly unpretentious Michelin-starred restaurant. Also unmissable is the town of Samobor itself – the prettiest place in Zagreb county, full of “graceful” Habsburg-era houses in shades of “buttery yellow, apricot and pistachio”.

A week at Nadal’s school of padel

Often described as a cross between tennis and squash, padel is booming, with an estimated one million players in the UK. Being “utterly hooked”, I signed up for a week-long training camp at the Rafa Nadal Academy in Mallorca, said Jemima Kelly in the Financial Times – an “exhausting” experience, but “fun and exhilarating” too. Located in Manacor, the academy not only delivers world-class coaching in both tennis and padel, it has “top-notch” accommodation too, making a stay here feel like a proper holiday. Training days run from 8.30am to 6pm, but include a 3.5-hour break for long lunches and trips to the beach. I was impressed by the attentiveness of our coach, Rodri Ovide, and loved the resort’s spa.

The week costs from €3,984, full board (rafanadalacademy.com)

Isolated in the South Atlantic Ocean, 1,200 miles west of Angola, the volcanic island of St Helena has a “magic” that is “hard to define”, said Michael Binyon in The Times. It derives partly from the “beauty and variety” of the island’s landscapes, including “rich steep pastures” and “rugged bare mountains” rising to 820 metres. But it’s also to do with the island’s small size and friendly atmosphere: St Helena is less than one-third the size of the Isle of Wight, and is home to just 4,200 people.

Then there’s its pleasant tropical climate, its extraordinary history, the charm of its old buildings, and the sense of “stepping back into an earlier age” (although there is Wi-Fi here). In any case, I find it so “enticing” that I’ve returned seven times since first visiting in 2009.

The island is Britain’s oldest colony after Bermuda, having received its charter in 1659 during the protectorate of Oliver Cromwell’s son Richard. Its tiny capital, Jamestown, has “barely changed in two centuries”, and has the oldest Anglican church in the southern hemisphere, as well as a “beautiful” botanic garden. The governor’s mansion, Plantation House, was built in 1791 by the East India Company, and is famed today as the home of Jonathan, a tortoise from the Seychelles who is now aged about 194 and thought to be the oldest creature on Earth.

St Helena’s other “world-famous resident”, Napoleon, was exiled here in 1815, after the battle of Waterloo. The farm where he lived, Longwood, is now French property and has been restored to how it looked on the day of his death in 1821.

The island has an extraordinary wealth of endemic wildlife, with hundreds of species found nowhere else on Earth; and it’s also a good spot for diving and for dolphin-watching trips, although it has no proper beaches. If you go, I can recommend the Mantis St Helena hotel. But be warned that flights (from Johannesburg, plus Cape Town in summer) are often cancelled due to bad weather. If you can, add a few days to your trip just in case.

Halloween is all about “dressing up, carving pumpkins, sharing treats and enjoying spooky fun with friends and family”, said the BBC. Here are some of our favourite activities from across the country. Pick pumpkins in Yorkshire, cuddle tarantulas in Oxfordshire, or encounter ghostly figures in the Tower of London: no tricks, only treats.

Ghosts and ravens at Hampton Court Palace and the Tower of London

“Where better to mark All Hallows’ Eve than some of London’s most haunted locations?” said Connor Sturges in Condé Nast Traveller. Hampton Court Palace and the Tower of London are putting on their usual “spook-tacular” events for all ages throughout half term. Expect “roaming ghostly apparitions” as the sun sets, and follow autumn trails “filled with pumpkins, scarecrows and seasonal surprises” around the Palace grounds. For the first time at the Tower, there will be “early-bird access into the fortress for a unique encounter with the ravens”, while wardens regale you with tales of the Tower’s “darkest secrets”.
24 October to 1 November; hrp.org.uk/hampton-court-palace; hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london

Pumpkin Picking at Stockeld Park, North Yorkshire

A trip to Stockeld Park is “fantastic” all year round, said Alice Saville in Time Out. But it “lures” you in with an “added bonus” of themed adventure playgrounds around Halloween time. You can jump on a tractor and head out into the fields to select your own pumpkin, before settling in for a day of autumnal fun. The main event is a “pumpkin slingshot” which is included in your ticket price, but there are also wand-making sessions and a friendly roving scarecrow.
24 to 31 October; stockeldpark.co.uk

Scarefest at Alton Towers Resort, Staffordshire

Each year, the theme park “raises its Halloween game to offer an increasingly spookier experience for their annual Scarefest celebration”, said Amy Burns in The i Paper. This year it has after-dark rides on Nemesis Reborn, plus Wicker Man and The Smiler. Over the years, the park has introduced more “live actor experiences” and Halloween is the ideal opportunity to expand this trend – and offer “genuine frights”. To tone down the scare factor, you can head to Amigos in the Afterlife or Trick o’ Treat Town, where live actors will “amuse younger visitors and even hand out a few treats”.
10 to 11 October, and 16 October to 1 November; altontowers.com

Victoria Park Guardians, Victoria Park, Manchester

As October draws to a close, Stretford’s Victoria Park “transforms into an interactive family trail”, said Emmeline Banks in Secret Manchester. Teams gather together to solve clues to “uncover the mystery of the Keeper’s missing key” from the 13 Guardians hidden across the park’s paths, gardens, and historic spots. It’s designed for ages three to 12, and can take up to 90 minutes, but it’s well worth the reward waiting for you at the end.
24 to 31 October; eventbrite.com

Thrill-seeking at Blenheim Palace, Oxfordshire

The Palace’s “haunted half term” has plenty to offer for a family day out, said Fran Watts in The Independent. Handling animals in the ZooLab is perfect for little ones, allowing them to see tarantulas, snakes, giant snails and more up close. There are also witch storytelling sessions, circus workshops and the popular Pip and Posy trail. “Older thrill-seekers may want to wait until after dark” for the spooky trail – think “immersive entertainment, light displays, jumpy twists and turns and Halloween food and drinks”.
22 October to 1 November; blenheimpalace.com

More and more Parisians have been “reaching for a glass of Chartreuse” in recent years, said Morwenna Ferrier in The Guardian. But the “intensely green” herbal liqueur isn’t always easy to find.

Chartreuse dates back to 1605 when Carthusian monks were “entrusted with the recipe” by Duke François Annibal d’Estrées. Containing 130 ingredients including plants, barks and spices, the original recipe for the so-called “elixir of long life” took the monks “over a century to decipher”. Eventually, they settled on what became the base of today’s Chartreuse – a secret recipe known by just three monks.

It’s always been “pricey” but it got even harder to find when, in 2021, the Carthusian monks “suddenly announced plans to cap production” in order to devote themselves to prayer, sparking a global shortage.

The elusive liqueur is usually found in more “ambitiously stocked” bars. Its popularity has increased since the pandemic, when a “taste for the weirder, top-shelf” alcohols. At Combat, an “edgy-cool” bar on the Rue de Belleville, you’ll find it served cold in a “crystal-cut sipping glass” or mixed with gin, lime and a maraschino cherry in a cocktail, The Last Word.

Les Cave des Papilles, Le Saint Sebastien and Cave Pur Jus are other spots in Paris where you can find the “electric-green liqueur”, said Joel Hart in Bloomberg. Chartreuse drinkers are a “motley crew” – you’ll see them everywhere from luxury hotels to “low-key cave à mangers”.

Beyond the capital, every May the annual Les Fêtes de la Chartreuse takes place in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of France. It’s a “triple celebration”: of the liqueur itself, the “verdant mountain range” after which it is named, and the “area’s natural bounty at the height of spring”, said Matt Ortile in Condé Nast Traveler.

Chartreuse comes in two main expressions: green and yellow. I like the former. “Herbaceous” and “almost overwhelming”, drinking it straight “feels like a meadow grabbing you by the throat, and saying ‘Do you like that?’ (My answer is yes)”. But the yellow version “has its charms too” – it has a lower alcohol content and feels “sweetly cosy, like a good morning kiss from a casual lover”.

Scattered across southern Finland are “dozens” of lakeside hotels, many with saunas, self-catering cabins, and “gleaming” steps into the water.

On a four-night road trip from Helsinki to Lake Saimaa in September, I stayed at three, said Annabelle Thorpe in The Guardian – and found the region more beautiful, peaceful and “sunkissed” than I could have imagined.

First came the Radalla resort, with its “chic” cabins, and next, Sahanlahti, which has a “butterscotch yellow”, 18th century main house and an excellent restaurant. Between the two, I enjoyed a “hearty” bowl of elk soup and a tasting of berry wines at the Ollinmäki winery.

And last came Järvisydän – a 100-room resort with “starkly modern” glass-walled cabins – where I “whizzed out” in a motor boat to pick chanterelle mushrooms and look for rare ringed seals on Saimaa’s islands.
From £749pp, excluding flights, with Discover the World.

An enchanting town in the Tarn

With its charming medieval streets and “mighty” gothic cathedral – one of the world’s largest brick-built churches – the town of Albi in southern France makes for a lovely short break, said Jane Knight in The Times.

Set in the Tarn region, an hour’s drive north of Toulouse, it’s also known for its Toulouse-Lautrec museum, a big collection of works by the famously “diminutive” and dissolute painter, born here in 1864.

Visiting in June, I stayed at Villa Caroline, a pleasant hotel with four “rustic-chic” rooms, and I enjoyed a day’s e-biking from nearby Gaillac, which lends its name to the surrounding wine region, one of France’s oldest. At Domaine Gayrard, I tasted some organic wines made with rare local grape varieties, and visited Cordes-sur-Ciel, a fortified medieval town set high on a rocky hilltop with “sweeping” views.

A venerable paddle steamer turns 80

Launched in Glasgow in 1946, the PS Waverley is the last seagoing passenger-carrying paddle steamer in the world, and this year she celebrates her 80th anniversary.

With two red-and-black funnels and giant paddle wheels, she is a “glorious” sight, says Chris Moss in The Telegraph, and a “nostalgic” reminder of a more “sedate” era when Britain was home to hundreds of boats like this. Named after Sir Walter Scott’s novel, the Waverley was built to operate around Loch Long, replacing a vessel that was sunk by enemy fire during the evacuation of Dunkirk.

These days, however, she plies routes all around the UK. This month, she’ll be sailing mostly around London and the Southeast before returning to Glasgow for her final voyage of the season, on 18 October.
waverleyexcursions.co.uk

A vast “concrete jungle” with “notoriously awful” traffic, the Brazilian city of São Paulo does not attract many foreign tourists, said Tomé Morrissy-Swan in The Telegraph. They tend to opt instead for the “glamour and natural beauty” of Rio, or the “vivaciousness” of Salvador – and yet to skip it is to miss a “gem”.

Fifty miles across and home to some 21 million people, the urban area it dominates is the biggest in South America. Exploring it can be “tiring”, and the weather is often “grey and drizzly, even cold (by Brazilian standards)”. But the riches it harbours – artistic, architectural, musical, culinary – are “endless”, and many of its most tourist-friendly areas (such as “bohemian” Vila Madalena and “upmarket” Jardins) are walkable, and “relatively safe”.

In the mid-19th century, São Paulo was a “provincial backwater”, home to just 30,000 people. From the 1870s, however, a coffee-fuelled economic boom attracted huge numbers of immigrants, and the city soon overtook Rio as Brazil’s leading industrial and, later, financial centre.

Today, it is an art lover’s “paradise”, with hundreds of museums and galleries, such as the Pinacoteca (great for Brazilian art) and the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP), an extraordinary modernist building on “giant” red stilts. Fans of modernist architecture will find much else to enjoy, too – not least in Ibirapuera Park, with its striking array of mid-century buildings by Oscar Niemeyer, including the pavilion that now houses the superb Museu Afro Brasil.

São Paulo is also a great city of music. For traditional samba, try late-night spots in Pinheiros (Ó do Borogodó, Julinho Clube); less “raucous” are Bona Casa de Música and the “stunning” Casa de Francisca.

The food is terrific here too. Thanks to its waves of immigration, there are lots of excellent Japanese, Italian and Middle Eastern restaurants, but there are also plenty of wonderful Brazilian places. Two of these – Tuju and Evvai – recently became the first restaurants in Latin America to win three Michelin stars.

My idea of Sweden was based entirely on Scandi-noir dramas, all bleak landscapes, depressed people and woolly jumpers. Driving from the airport in early December the grey skies and vast landscape of fallow fields and red farm buildings confirmed that impression, especially as the sun started to set at around 4pm. But alongside those dark skies and empty spaces there was already a feeling of calm as we whizzed along in our rental car, which was of course a Volvo.

At almost twice the size of the UK but with a population density 90% lower, Sweden is a land of open landscapes and wild coastline. We were touring a small part of West Sweden made up of three provinces: Bohuslän, Dalsland, Västergötland. Lakes, mountains, forests and the endless islands are all within a few hours of Gothenburg so even without a car everything is accessible using the excellent trains, buses and ferries.

A charming seaside village

We started in Lyckorna, a historic seaside resort founded in 1877 by Robert MacFie, the son of William Andrew MacFie (credited with introducing curling to Sweden in 1846) who established a spa and bathing resort on this forested ridge. Now a charming village, with its traditional church with prominent spire overlooking the town and the old clock tower converted into a wonderful mussel and fish restaurant.

We arrived in time for Lucia Day, an annual Christian festival celebrated throughout Sweden and as iconic as the midsummer crayfish parties. There was a procession to the church of white clad handmaidens (tärnor), star boys (stjärngossar) and gingerbread men (pepparkaksgubbar) with candle wreaths on the maidens’ heads – now battery powered rather than actual flames.

We were staying just up the hill at Villa Sjötorp, a classic summer house completed in 1901 by Carl Emil Haeger. The white clapboard exterior topped with typical Norse dragon heads was taken back into the family in 1995 by Haeger’s great great granddaughter Ellika Modenfelt, who painstakingly restored it to its former glory with the help of local craftsmen. The minute we entered we were greeted by glorious colour, festive winter decorations and happy people. Our bedroom overlooked the sea with a large ceramic-tiled chimney and a classic cast-iron bed. Here we found the genius Swedish invention of single duvets on the double bed. At first we were bemused by it but as we snuggled under our individual goose feather duvets we had a blissful night’s sleep without having to fight for the covers.

The living areas featured elegant rooms with gilded wooden carved ceilings, a welcome fireplace and a popular restaurant serving delicious food from local sustainable and organic producers. As we were there in December we got to experience a traditional Julbord, a magnificent spread with a heavy focus on pickled herring. Ellika talked us through how to approach a frankly intimidating volume of food starting with 10 varieties of pickled herring served alongside wholemeal crackers and dark bread, washed down with brännvin, the Swedish schnapps which comes with its own song. Next up was a variety of fish and salads before we moved onto the cured meats and, finally, the hot food including baked ham, meatballs, sausages and a potato and salt-fish casserole. We finished off with more cheese and bread, and a selection of sweets and desserts. The highlight was the herring of which the Swedish are rightly proud, and obsessed with. You can eat it fresh and it’s delicious simply grilled.

It was hard to crawl out of our comfy bed early but we were booked to go kayaking along the coast. Our lovely hosts had prepared a breakfast of breads, fruit, coffee and boiled eggs with tubes of Kalles Kaviar Original, a smoked cod’s roe paste that’s almost as much of a national obsession as the herring.

Ancient oyster beds and rocky islands

Perhaps the best way to experience West Sweden is on the water. Ingela and Marcus run Skärgårdsidyllen Kayak & Outdoor activities in the magnificent archipelago of Grönemad, Grebbestad. It had been many decades since I’d been kayaking so Ingela kindly offered to go in a tandem kayak with me as, despite the comprehensive safety instruction and dry suit, I didn’t fancy falling into the North Sea in winter. Under grey and sleeting skies we paddled out onto the water where we passed ancient oyster beds and rocky islands with traditional fisherman’s huts. Eider ducks and black guillemots kept us company as Marcus and Ingela talked about the history of the area including pointing out their house overlooking the sea. They also run guided kayaking tours in the national marine park of Kosterhavet, hiking, paddle boarding and yoga, fishing and food tours throughout the year. You couldn’t wish for better guides and their glowing good health is testament to the benefits of outdoor life.

If you have time it’s well worth exploring Grebbestad, a popular seaside town with excellent seafood options, but we had a boat to catch. About nine miles off the coast of Bohuslän you can find Väderöarnas Värdshus, an inn with 22 rooms. This rugged island has cliff paths leading to the old pilot lookout, and sheltered coves. Set within the Väderöarna marine nature reserve, in season you can fish for lobster and crayfish but in December the best thing to do was have a wood-fired sauna and hot tub, complete with cold plunges into the dark winter sea.

But the highlight was the warm, friendly people who are proud of their country. They were keen to explain the best ways to enjoy the visit, from the choice of drinks to have in the hot tub, to sauna etiquette and braving that night-time dip. The sea didn’t exactly look inviting but cheered on by the Swedes I made like the locals and took the plunge, although – full disclosure – it was teeth-achingly cold so I stayed in for just enough time to defend national pride before jumping back into the hot tub. At dinner our enthusiasm for herring shocked them as they were sure all English people hated them. When we assured them we thought they were delicious it sparked a discussion from all the guests over the best places to eat Julbord. No one could agree where that was but when I asked what made a great Julbord the geneßral consensus was the more herring the better. As we sat outside wrapped against the cold and stared up at the star-filled sky, only the gentle lapping of the sea and the happy sound of the drinking songs disturbed the silence of the wilderness. Those Scandi dramas might have depicted the landscape, but they failed to prepare us for the warmth of the people.

Natasha was a guest of Visit West Sweden; westsweden.com

A cow’s urgent mooooo pierced the stillness of the Irish countryside – and my daydream. I was standing in a field at Rigney’s Farm in County Limerick, imagining what it would be like to say goodbye to the city and move thousands of miles to start a new, simpler life on the other side of the Atlantic.

I wasn’t alone. This late morning visit to the farm was a stop on Abercrombie & Kent’s small group journey Ireland: Legends of the Emerald Island, and I was accompanied by eight other travellers and our expert guide, Barbara Hunter. We were almost at the end of our adventure, having started in Dublin, and my affection for the country only deepened as we made our way through lush green landscapes, explored tiny villages – and their pubs – and met traditional Irish musicians and storytellers who perfected the art of good craic (fun times and friendly conversation).

Exploring Ireland, one village at a time

This was my first visit to Ireland, and the nine-day itinerary was a flawless introduction to all things Éire. There were the sights and pursuits listed in the tour books –taking in the rugged coastline during a drive on the Ring of Kerry, standing on the windswept Cliffs of Moher, riding a horse-drawn jaunting car through Killarney National Park, viewing the ancient Book of Kells – along with activities in small villages that connected you with locals.

Those were the experiences I’ll never forget. Our first stop outside Dublin was at Malzard’s Pub in Stoneyford, County Kilkenny. Fifth-generation owner Fred Malzard greeted us with a smile and offer of any drink we’d like, and within minutes I was in a booth sipping a Rockshore cider, listening to a traditional Gaelic storyteller, or seanchaí, spin a yarn. He was accompanied by a nattily dressed musician who before long had us singing folk songs at the top of our lungs.

After a bowl of delicious lamb stew, we headed outside for a quick hurling lesson. Hurling is one of Ireland’s national sports, and involves moving a ball down the field, either by hitting it or carrying it for up to four steps. Fred showed us how to smack the ball with the hurley stick, and, spoiler alert: I don’t have a future in the game. I did walk away with a souvenir ball and newfound appreciation for the sport.

Our trek around the southern part of Ireland, then up to Newmarket-on-Fergus in County Clare, took us through tiny towns, and I loved seeing the countryside and its ancient stone ruins and castles unfold before me. It was in those villages that we were able to enjoy homemade sausage pies and learn how to hand-churn butter at Rigney’s Farm, take a ferry to Whiddy Island for lunch and storytelling with a longtime resident, and learn about sustainable oyster farming at Kelly Oysters in County Galway. We gathered on a pier above the Atlantic, where Michael Kelly shucked us oyster after oyster, each one deliciously plump with the right amount of saltiness. Adding a splash of gin and squeeze of lemon only enhanced the flavour.

Having the opportunity to chat with locals about everything and anything – their work, their culture, their unfiltered thoughts on the All-Ireland Senior Hurling Championship – made these stops feel more like social calls than planned excursions. Abercrombie & Kent crafted the itinerary to include several of these special, one-of-a-kind opportunities, which let us experience a side of Ireland most visitors don’t get to see.

A taste of Irish hospitality

Hospitality is ingrained in Irish culture, and we received a warm welcome and top-notch service at the four hotels we stayed at. In Dublin, we checked into the contemporary Anantara The Marker, in the Docklands, which had one of the best breakfast buffets I’ve seen; the local meat and cheeses were fantastic. In County Cork, we stayed at Castlemartyr Resort, a historic property with elegant rooms that looked out at the countryside and Castlemartyr Golf Course.

We ate a lovely dinner here one night in the modern Canopy Restaurant, and the next evening set off for an unforgettable meal at the famed Ballymaloe House. The vegetables, grown just steps away, were exquisite, and we all got excited when the dessert trolley rolled in. Everything was prepared in-house, based on the ingredients in season, and we indulged in fresh sorbet served in an ice bowl, chocolate torte, an incredible fruity meringue and Mrs Allen’s Carrageen moss pudding.

Sheen Falls Lodge in Kenmare looked like it was straight out of a movie. A rushing river cuts through the property, and while I usually enjoy settling into hotel rooms, I couldn’t stay inside. I spent as much time outside as possible, walking along the pathways, snapping photos of blooming geraniums and enjoying a drink on the bar’s stone patio.

Our final hotel was Dromoland Castle, and our arrival was as dramatic as the landscape itself. We were greeted at the gate by three galloping horses and over a dozen hounds, who gracefully led us to the castle, where we were met by the delightful staff. It felt like a scene from “Downton Abbey”. I could have spent a week here exploring every nook and cranny of the castle and its 450 acres. The little touches also stood out; turndown service included a gift each night with different Dr. Barbara Sturm skin products, a welcome sight after a long day.

A journey to remember

On our first night, our guide Barbara told us the trip would go by in a flash, and she was right. It felt as if one minute we were stepping onto the bus for the first time, headed to Trinity College and St Patrick’s Cathedral, and the next it was time to say goodbye after our final dinner at Dromoland Castle.

Sharp as a tack with wit to match, Barbara was a wonderful guide, answering every question with aplomb. She brought along items like Irish linen to show us examples of traditional wares, and a map to point out where we were and where we were headed next. Our intrepid driver, Dermot, ferried us safely from stop to stop, and we all had room to spread out on the large, comfortable coach.

As a solo traveller, I was slightly apprehensive before arrival, but my fears disappeared the minute we all met and introduced ourselves. My fellow travellers’ enthusiasm for travelling and trying new things inspired me to do the same, and I enjoyed their company. I was on the trip by myself, but was never alone.

Abercrombie & Kent arranged a journey that was smooth from start to finish, and I appreciated all of the small details that made a huge difference, such as having laundry done at the halfway point (not having to pack a ton of clothes meant more room for souvenirs). I didn’t have to worry about a thing; all of my focus was on taking in the sights and enjoying the ride.

I left Ireland knowing I would be back. The Emerald Isle is a special place, and now that I’ve had a taste of the gorgeous scenery and rich history, I need to dive deeper – there’s more dramatic coastline to explore, villages to traverse, traditions to witness and craic to be had.

Catherine Garcia was a guest of Abercrombie & Kent

Since its premiere on HBO Max in the US last year, the Canadian ice hockey drama “Heated Rivalry” has become a “cultural phenomenon”, spawning trivia nights, costume contests and “no fewer than four parody musicals”, said Sarah Bahr in The New York Times. It catapulted its actors to stardom and created another, more unlikely star too – the glamorous lakeside house where the male lovers “cosy up”.

In Canada, such holiday homes, no matter how grand, are called “cottages”, and spending the summer in “cottage country” – the wilderness of forests and lakes beyond Canada’s cities – is a long-standing tradition. To sample it, I headed to Muskoka, a glorious region with more than 1,600 “sparkling” lakes, where the cottage featured in the TV show lies.

A two-hour drive north of Toronto, Lake Muskoka and its neighbours have been attracting the rich and famous for 150 years. Today, the likes of Tom Hanks and Steven Spielberg have cottages in the area – but despite high property prices, a holiday here can be relatively affordable, as the best experiences – “water- skiing shows, stunning hikes, weep-worthy sunsets” – are often free.

I stayed at a hotel in the small town of Gravenhurst, on Lake Muskoka itself, which has some decent restaurants and “charming” tea rooms, and is a good base for swimming, canoeing, sailing and hiking. I also stole a “distant glimpse” of the “Heated Rivalry” cottage, a “three-bedroom beauty with glass walls, floor-to-ceiling windows and a central granite fireplace” that was recently listed on Airbnb, starting at £1,625 per night.

I browsed farmers’ markets “brimming” with fresh local produce, and visited Bala – “Ontario’s cranberry capital” – where Muskoka Lakes Farm & Winery offers wine tastings and tours of its cranberry bog. I admired the “hulking” historic steamships that run sightseeing cruises from Gravenhurst. And I walked the Huckleberry Rock Lookout Trail – perhaps the region’s “prettiest” hike – up to a large “perch” of pink granite with sweeping views across the lake.

With its pale beaches and low-lying, forested interior, the Brazilian island of Boipeba is a slice of “heaven”, says Chris Haslam in The Sunday Times.

It lies in the tropical state of Bahia, 30 minutes by small plane (or a longer journey by boat and taxi) from the city of Salvador, and it gets busy from December to March. Even so, the absence of high-rise hotels and cars makes for a laid-back vibe, and at Easter, I found it “quiet”.

The weather was pleasant, too – not too hot at 28 degrees. A boat tour of the island’s mangroves and reefs was “like a promo reel for the Brazilian Tourist Board”; the food (including lots of spicy seafood stews with coconut milk) was wonderful; and I can recommend my hotel, the beachside Pousada Víla Sereía, which has lush gardens and just four cabins.

Poland’s lively capital of cinema

It lacks the charming medieval old town of Wrocław or Kraków, but the Polish city of Łódz (pronounced “wudj”) has two strengths of its own, says Kevin Rushby in The Guardian.

The first is its film industry. Poland’s best-known directors – Wajda, Polanski and Kieslowski – studied at its film school; more recent talents such as Paweł Pawlikowski have shot films here; and the city’s Museum of Cinematography is a “tour de force”.

The second is its industrial heritage. Łódz is chock-a-block with “handsome” Victorian-era textile factories – huge red-brick buildings that have been “beautifully” restored to house restaurants, bars, shops and more.

It’s a “stunning” example of urban regeneration underpinning a “vibrant” cultural life. Music and dance are “never far away” here, and there are some other first-rate attractions, including the “fascinating” Museum of the Factory, with working looms dating back to the 1880s.

The wondrousness of Great Orme

Extending for two miles northwest of Llandudno, the Great Orme peninsula makes up in “rugged” splendour what it lacks in size, says Kerry Walker in The Telegraph.

You can reach its 221-metre highest point on Britain’s only cable-hauled tramway, built in 1902, but it’s also worth walking the circular, four-mile Great Orme Nature Trail, which commands views back to Snowdonia. Rare wildflowers bloom in spring and summer, bringing “clouds” of butterflies, and the headland’s cliffs are home to “spectacular” colonies of seabirds.

Stay at the Lighthouse, a hotel in a Victorian lighthouse, or Lansdowne House (also charming), and look out for the peninsula’s long-horned goats. Descended from a pair given to Queen Victoria by the Shah of Persia in 1837, they found fame during Covid, when they “ran riot” in Llandudno’s deserted streets.

“Britain is now a nation of ‘shoulder seasoners’,” said The Times. For the “uninitiated” that means more of us are choosing to travel in May or September to avoid the crowds and soaring temperatures associated with peak summer holiday months.

Most of Europe’s “classic beach destinations” are more affordable in September when the kids go back to school. “But beware the weather.” While places like Faro in Portugal’s Algarve are still warm come autumn, the Atlantic Ocean can be “bracing”. If it’s sun you’re after, the further south you go “the better”.

For “reliable” October half-term temperatures of around 26C during the day, consider booking a trip to the Canary Islands. H10 Costa Adeje Palace in southwest Tenerife is right next to La Enramada beach, from which it’s easy to set out on “nice walks that spiral around the coast”.

If you love history, consider a last-minute trip to Greece. There’s “more room to breathe”, shorter queues for top archaeological sites, and you’ll be able to “relish the hike up to the Parthenon without melting in the heat”, said Condé Nast Traveller. A road trip that “traces the coast of the rugged and mountainous Peloponnese peninsula” is a great way to explore – as long as you’re prepared that it might be too chilly to take a dip.

Puglia is another excellent option for shoulder-season travellers, said The Independent. Outdoor enthusiasts won’t go wrong with a five-day, self-guided walk with Ramble Worldwide. Soak up the “beauties” of the coast as you weave your way from Otranto to Lecce “stopping for refreshing swims” while your luggage is taken ahead to your accommodation.

Or, head to Slovenia for “Habsburg-related history” and “cool wine regions” at a fraction the cost of neighbouring Austria, said The Times. By October, “the treeline cuts a russet-and-copper swathe across the Slovenian countryside as it climbs towards the mountains”. Begin your trip in Ljubljana and end up in Bohinj at its beautiful spa hotel overlooking the Julian Alps. Bliss.

Sonoma County has a reputation for outstanding wineries. Cool Pacific breezes and a variety of soils make this stretch of Northern California a perfect place to grow grapes. But there’s more to the region than its vineyards. These six refreshing options present Sonoma County in a different light, showcasing both nature and culture.

Take a walk on the wild side at Safari West

It’s easy to forget where you are during a visit to the wildlife preserve Safari West. Spread across 400 acres in the hills of Santa Rosa, Safari West is home to more than 900 animals, including giraffes, zebras, rhinos, flamingos, cape buffalo and impalas. As you make your way through the vast property on a guided open-air vehicle tour (sit on the roof for an extra thrill), it feels like you’re driving around the plains of Tanzania, waiting for the Great Migration to start.

Safari West was founded in 1993 by Nancy and Peter Lang as a wildlife conservation and education center. No two tours are alike; guides follow the animals’ lead and stay back, giving visitors the chance to appreciate the wildlife without encroaching. Along the way, guides share insights, and tours will stay in habitats longer when the animals are active and playing together or eating.

The fun doesn’t have to end once a tour is over. Guests can spend the night in one of Safari West’s custom-finished safari tents from Botswana. Each comes with a private bathroom, ceiling fan, space heater and viewing deck, and a continental breakfast. After dark, expect to hear the park’s nocturnal animals.

Stare up in awe at the Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve

For more than 1,000 years, the towering coastal redwoods at this natural reserve near Guerneville have stood tall, providing shade and tranquility. The wheelchair-accessible Pioneer Nature Trail passes by the Colonel Armstrong Tree, believed to be more than 1,400 years old and the oldest in the grove; the Icicle Tree, covered with substantial burl formations; and the Parson Jones Tree, the tallest in the park at more than 310 feet. The protected reserve covers 805 acres and is a reminder of what the landscape looked like before logging began in the 19th century.

Stop at downtown Guerneville for a heavenly buttermilk biscuit at Piknik Town Market. Order one with jam and butter, or go savory and get a biscuit topped with vegetarian gravy or stuffed with bacon, lettuce and tomato. While waiting for your breakfast, look around and shop for locally made shirts, hats, candles and tchotchkes. There are several stores along the main drag, including the whimsical Guerneville 5&10 filled with gifts, candy, greeting cards, art supplies and more.

Embrace a childhood favorite at the Charles M. Schulz Museum and Research Center

The gang’s all here. Charlie Brown, Woodstock, Lucy, Linus and, of course, Snoopy are celebrated at the cheerful Charles M. Schulz Museum and Research Center in Santa Rosa.

“Peanuts” creator Schulz moved to Sonoma County in the late 1950s, and the museum is filled with his personal artifacts. They include mementos from his childhood and military service and murals he painted for his children’s bedrooms, plus original comic panels, a recreation of Schulz’s studio and an impressive tile piece made of more than 3,500 “Peanuts” strips. In the Education Room, visitors can be creative too, drawing characters and making animations for zoetropes.

Across the street is Snoopy’s Home Ice, an indoor skating rink Schulz built in 1969, where youe can “lace up your skates for public sessions and lessons” or “cheer on” the Santa Rosa Growlers hockey team, said Travel and Leisure. At The Warm Puppy Café, hot cocoa is a popular treat year-round, and Snoopy’s Gallery & Gift Shop offers “Peanuts” T-shirts, sweatshirts, hats, magnets, stuffed animals and “all the other merch you could imagine.”

Float down the Russian River

During the summer, “dawdlers of all kinds” head to the Russian River with their “kayaks, canoes, inner tubes — just about anything that will float,” said the Los Angeles Times. Starting in Guerneville, revelers glide past redwoods, vineyards, beaches and other “scenery that might as well be a Northern California highlight reel.” This area is filled with small, “quirky” communities like Monte Rio and Forestville, where you can rent equipment.

Go for a swim at Francis Ford Coppola Winery

This isn’t your typical winery. Academy Award-winning filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola purchased this Geyserville property in 2006 and used it as another canvas for his storytelling.

While designing the estate, Coppola was inspired by Copenhagen’s Tivoli Gardens and classic amusement parks, and wanted the property to be a place where people could gather for activities beyond drinking wine — a “rarity among vineyards,” said Secret San Francisco. There is a “massive” pool surrounded by comfortable loungers, along with cabins that have a private shower and changing area, a bocce court and a movie gallery.

Visitors can take a self-guided audio tour through the curated gallery, which features memorabilia from Coppola’s films and life, including Don Corleone’s desk from “The Godfather,” surfboards from “Apocalypse Now,” a Tucker Torpedo car from 1948 and several Oscar statuettes. After your tour, lunch at Rustic is only a few steps away. Offering a “quintessential Sonoma Wine Country dining experience,” Rustic focuses on seasonal ingredients grown on property and traditional Italian dishes, said USA Today. Pastas are made in-house, the pizzas are wood-fired and a bag of delicious savory zeppole is presented at the start of every meal. Save room for dessert: The house-made sorbetto is fantastic.

Enjoy R&R at the retro cool Flamingo Resort & Spa

Flamingo Resort and Spa opened in Santa Rosa in 1957 and “wears its midcentury influence on its sleeve,” said The Michelin Guide. The 10-acre, pet-friendly property is anchored by a huge pool, where guests can splash away from morning until well into the night. Renovated rooms are “midcentury in inspiration and totally modern in their comforts,” with mini-refrigerators, coffee and tea stations and floor-to-ceiling windows with blackout curtains.

Guests have access to tennis and pickleball courts and a fitness center offering spin, yoga, a sauna and a steam room, and barre and aerobic classes. For a relaxing massage or facial, head to the spa, and for dinner, look no further than the Lazeaway Club. Sit outside on the patio overlooking the pool and enjoy the delicious Cal-Pacific cooking, like the bulgogi burger with umami fries, bibimbap bowl and seared salmon with shimeji mushrooms in a coconut-lemongrass broth. End the night at the Vintage Space for live music, dance parties and Thursday night stand-up shows with Don’t Tell Comedy.

Catherine Garcia was a guest of Sonoma County Tourism

Travel is usually about “discovery”, but there’s also joy in introducing places you love to people you love. That was the idea behind the 15-night tour of China my husband and I took with our teenage daughters last Easter, says Helen Holmes in The Times – though, in fact, we found the country much changed since our last visit 18 years ago.

The biggest boon was its “gleaming” new network of high-speed railways, which cut once-epic journeys down to just a few hours. Be warned, though, the country’s increased prosperity has also created “hordes” of domestic tourists, which has contributed to over-tourism at some sites. It is a good idea, too, to research local payment apps which, once mastered, make life much simpler.

Buying train tickets is still complex, however, so we used an agency, China Highlights. Our trip was bookended by four-night stays in Hong Kong and Shanghai, and we spent time in two regions between the two. First came three nights in the “lush” southwestern province of Guangxi, with its “languorous” rivers, rice paddies and karst peaks – “the landscape of Chinese legend”.

In the historic town of Xingping (featured on the 20 yuan banknote), we stayed at the Giggling Tree, a guesthouse in a former farm where you can dine in the courtyard, “inhaling the fragrance of pomelo blossom” on the warm evening air. And we escaped the “selfie-seeking crowds” on a cycling trip along the “misty” Li River, returning downstream on bamboo rafts propelled by boatmen with poles.

We spent a further four nights in Hunan province, in central China, at the Forest Glass Inn, a stylishly converted Tujia minority compound in Zhangjiajie. The nearby Zhangjiajie National Forest Park, with its 3,000 “spiky” peaks topped with “improbable” mops of lush greenery, inspired the landscapes in the Avatar films. The park is simply “astonishing”, although exploring can be tiring owing to the “staggering” tourist crowds. Less stressful were our visits to the old towns of Fenghuang and Furong Zhen – both “delightful”.

A long walk in the wild east, a “remote” upland region of northern Portugal close to the Spanish border, the Côa Valley feels like “an enchanted, parallel world”, says Ben Buckland in The New York Times.

To explore it thoroughly, you could walk the 124-mile Côa Valley Grand Route, or GR45, which follows the Côa River northwards from its source to its confluence with the Douro. There are medieval castles along the way, and beautiful old villages with pleasant B&Bs, still thriving despite decades of rural flight.

Eagles and wolves roam the countryside, along with “sleek” grey Sorraia horses, reintroduced by the charity Rewilding Portugal. And near the trail’s northern end, there’s an even more extraordinary sight: thousands of “crisp” rock engravings of animals dating back up to 24,000 years, now protected as a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Britain’s new marine marvels

As climate change warms Britain’s coastal waters, there has been a “huge influx” of spectacular species from seas to the south.

Keen to see some of them, I took a wildlife-watching boat trip from Brixham Harbour in south Devon, says Mark Stratton in The Telegraph – a day-long outing with Captain Ross Parham on his 42ft catamaran Spot On.

The sightings were plentiful, beginning with a sunfish – a “bizarre leviathan” with no tail and a round body that grows up to 10ft long. Later came “entrancing” pods of common dolphins (which are increasingly numerous here), and several 12ft-long Risso dolphins (“truly impressive beasts” with “bulbous, wrecking-ball heads”), which were seen doing “arching backflips” with “great splash landings”. The birds were dazzling, too – especially the Balearic shearwaters. Our “exotic” show concluded with a sighting of a 30ft minke whale.

The trip costs £135pp (naturetrek.co.uk).

A 1970s time warp on the Med

It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but if you’ve got a soft spot for 1970s urban planning, you might enjoy a trip to La Grande-Motte, says Mark C. O’Flaherty in The Guardian.

Conceived by the architect Jean Balladur, this “retro futurist folly of a resort town” lies on France’s south coast, 30 minutes’ drive from Montpellier. In the 1980s, it was seen as “gauche”, and later it gained a “trashy reputation”. But it seems to be undergoing a “renaissance”, and its “gleaming white” apartment blocks – like “Mesoamerican pyramids”, but with elegant balconies and lots of “intergalactic” curves – should please any “lover of postwar architourism”.

Stay at the three-star Hôtel Le Quetzal (refurbished, but still “fabulously vintage”), and make time for the more conventional sights nearby – notably the area’s salt marshes.

Not all castles are as they seem. Many have been transformed into hotels, where guests can live out their aristocratic dreams behind stone walls and high gates. These historic castles offer a stay you won’t experience anywhere else — plus the chance to be king or queen for the night.

Burghotel Auf Schonburg, Oberwesel, Germany

The moment you step inside this 1,000-year-old castle you can feel its storied history. There are 31 rooms and suites, each with its own design and antique furnishings, and several have balconies that look over the Rhine. Head to the interactive Tower Museum to learn more about how the castle defended itself against attacks, and stroll through the sprawling fairytale gardens for some quiet reflection.

Dalhousie Castle, Bonnyrigg, Scotland

For more than 800 years, Dalhousie Castle near Edinburgh has welcomed royalty, poets, politicians and now, you. This is the oldest inhabited castle in Scotland, complete with turrets, arched windows and red stone walls. In the Dungeon Restaurant, diners feast on contemporary Scottish cuisine, their tables surrounded by suits of armor and shields.

Dromoland Castle, Newmarket-on-Fergus, Ireland

Upon arrival, you’ll immediately notice Dromoland Castle’s “legendary” porters and doormen, who carry your bags to your room with “cheery smiles and lots of stories,” said Condé Nast Traveler. Their excellent service is just one perk of staying at the property.

You’ll also enjoy “castle-appropriate” activities like falconry walks and candle-lit dinners with “white glove service” at the Earl of Thomond restaurant, said Condé Nast Traveler. Take time to explore the “maze-like” main building, where architectural details include stained glass windows and carved ceilings.

Hever Castle, Edenbridge, England

Spend the night where Anne Boleyn spent her childhood. Her family moved to Hever Castle in the early 1500s, and this is where the doomed queen “received letters from Henry VIII,” said Time Out.

There are 26 rooms in the “beautiful” castle, which underwent a complete restoration in the early 20th century, courtesy of William Waldorf Astor. Even if you don’t have a “thing for the Tudors,” it’s “impossible not to be impressed” by the property and its “superb” gardens.

Ozu Castle, Ehime, Japan

This meticulously restored wooden castle is one of only a few still standing in Japan — and the first to welcome overnight guests. It’s believed that the original fortress went up in the 14th century, about 200 years before the Kato clan took control of Ozu.

There’s a focus on ensuring amenities and items like sheets and tableware are made locally and that guests are introduced to the area’s history. One way is through the 1617 Sadayasu Kato Takeover, a reenactment guests can participate in.

Pousada Castelo Estremoz, Portugal

Built in the 13th century by King Dinis I for Queen Saint Elizabeth of Portugal, Pousada Castelo Estremoz offers “sweeping views” of the Alentejo region, said Condé Nast Traveler. Rooms and suites come with “gorgeous” canopy beds, and outside there are “manicured” gardens, a swimming pool and a terrace perfect for meditation sessions. The palace sits in the historic center of Estremoz, known for its white marble quarries.

Ghent is a little overshadowed in the Belgian city break stakes by Bruges. But as well as great bars, restaurants, sights and shops, Ghent, too, has canals, medieval buildings, cobbled streets, a belfry and castle. It isn’t swamped by tourists, as Bruges can be. And at three hours by Eurostar it’s half an hour closer to London St Pancras.

Through a discreet glass door on the cobbled Graslei quay by St Michael’s Bridge, a spot in almost every shot of Ghent, is 1898 Porter’s House. With three suites and one room, it opened in September 2026 after refurbishment by Geraldine Dohogne, who also transformed the adjoining hotel, 1898 The Post.

Why stay here?

All the rooms are different shapes, sizes and layouts, but all share inviting textures and deep, rich colours – cocooning décor that feels profoundly welcoming. Mine is dark blue, with solid wooden beams.

Above the vast bed, with impeccable white linen and tweedy headboard, is the TV, almost as vast, although you can watch it only from the bed, not from the velvet armchair – just one in a room undeniably designed for two. That comfy seat is a perfect perch for a cup of tea from the in-room supplies, which also include ready-mixed in-house cocktails – just add ice. The kettle and coffee machine are tidily housed in a drawer, plugged in invisibly.

Thoughtful touches abound, such as a warm throw, books – including a bespoke “500 Hidden Secrets of Ghent” guidebook, yoga mat and blocks, umbrella and flip flops. Just inside the entryway, there’s ample hanging storage – although not long enough for my midi dress.

The marble bathroom with underfloor heating is equipped with bath, twin sinks and a rainfall shower with overhead roses and handheld attachments too, stocked with citrussy Guerlain Impériale toiletries. The loo, classily, is separate.

Two of the suites have a plant-filled roof terrace. As well as sunloungers, a table and chairs, mine has a copper bathtub. At night this is lit by strung lights and lanterns, perfect for an al fresco dip above the urban buzz, while inside lamps cast a soft glow, and thick Roman blinds and bedroom curtains block out all light.

Eating and drinking

A short stroll along Graslei takes you to breakfast in The Post’s breakfast room, The Kitchen, which becomes The Cobbler bar by night. Although the buffet size is small, it’s densely packed with desirable ways to start the day: mini croissants, mini pains au chocolat, cheeses and meats, yogurt, granola, seeds, an impressive array of fruit, plus eggs cooked to order and power shots of ginger, turmeric, and lemon, orange and pineapple juice.

It’s easy to find more great food in Ghent. For elevated dining, head to Sensum, housed in a Louis XVI mansion – which won its Michelin star in 2023 – and try its simply described four- or five-course experience menu. As a vegetarian, it was strange to choose dishes with names like Gobetto prawn and French pigeon, but staff reassured me that my food would be meat- and fish-free yet focused on the component flavours. Service was relaxed, attentive and informative, each course explained on arrival.

The food was exquisite, inventively prepared and impeccably presented. Memorable mouthfuls include an amuse bouche of panna cotta made with smoked milk; beetroot roasted for 72 hours then rehydrated, served with sour cream mousse, and gooseberry granita, which appeared on the menu as royal Belgian caviar.

Near the Museum of Industry is the cool, contemporary interior and vine-shaded courtyard of Edgar Kaasbar, whose short menu focuses on cheese (kaas), from raclette and fondue to croquettes and platters, with suggested wine and beer pairings. My pungent plateful grew in strength from tomme to Shropshire blue, accompanied by crusty bread, fruit and nuts.

Don’t miss out on Belgian specialities, such as chips and mayonnaise, a classic now with heritage status (although here beef stew is the preferred topping).

There are plenty of fine chocolate shops; I took home a tempting trayful from Deduytschaever near the Belfort. At the other end of the taste spectrum: excellent Tierenteyn mustard. This Ghent condiment’s quality apparently results from a family feud.

Boasting Ghent’s biggest beer selection, at over 500, is Café de Dulle Griet (which translates as ‘mad Meg’, taking its name from a nearby cannon). To sample the house beer, Max, served in a long glass on a wooden stand, you must surrender one shoe to a wire cage on the ceiling, returned when you return the glass.

Café den Turk, popular with locals, is the city’s oldest bar, dating from the 13th century, but its simple approach doesn’t trade on that.

Sample jenever, Belgian juniper-flavoured spirit, at t’Dreupelkot, by the river at Groentenmarkt 12, which dispenses shots of over 200 flavours, including coconut, cactus, vanilla and chilli.

For a nightcap, stay close to home with a cocktail in The Cobbler, a cool hangout for both residents and non-residents. My Kintsugi, with gin, kaffir lime and ginger, was fragrant and floral.

Things to do

Get yourself a Visit Gent CityCard – at just €49 for 48 hours, with free entry to sights, plus free tram, bus, bike and boat travel. Orient yourself with an overview of the city – literally – at the STAM, or Museum of Ghent, with a vast aerial photo to walk across, among varied exhibits including 13th-century frescos. Turn left out of the hotel and walk along the river. To return, board the hop-on, hop-off boat with your CityCard for a 90-minute city tour (hopping off not obligatory).

Gain a bird’s-eye view atop the 12th-century Belfort (belfry), with an array of bells and clock mechanisms within the tower.

The fairytale 12th-century castle, Gravensteen (Castle of the Counts) has enough battlements, turrets and crenellations to satisfy history buffs and small children. Inside, as well as the good city views, there’s a torture museum.

Fusing architectural styles is St Bavo’s (or Sint Baaf’s), the not-to-be-missed cathedral, boasting 22 altars, plus the world-famous “Adoration of the Mystic Lamb” altarpiece by Hubert and Jan van Eyck, the world’s first work using oil paints, in around 1432. Book the VR tour to better appreciate the glowing, vibrant figures and scenes in detail, and to learn its history, including multiple thefts – its return was part of the Treaty of Versailles after the First World War. The Museum of Fine Arts is carrying out restoration work on some of the original panels, which you can watch until 31 December. (Van Eyck portraits are on show at London’s National Gallery from 21 November.)

The verdict

A truly welcoming environment, from the decor to the historic artefacts in the myrrh and vetiver-scented public spaces that encourage you to slow down, to the endlessly good-humoured and patient staff. As the hotel’s interior designer Dohogne said: “it’s a sophisticated space that respects the guests’ needs and builds a world around them.” Feeling completely at home, I was happy to inhabit this world, if only for a short time.

Adrienne Wyper was a guest of 1898 Porter’s House, 1898portershouse.com

“I love summer as much as the next person, but I have to admit that, once the calendar gets to mid-August, I just cannot wait for autumn to arrive,” said Alessia Armenise in Condé Nast Traveller. As the weather cools down and the “back-to-school atmosphere is in full swing” the “long-awaited autumn activities can finally begin”.

The season for apple picking is about to hit its peak, with orchards all around the country opening their gates for people to fill their baskets. Here are some of our favourite places for a wholesome day out.

Ampleforth Abbey, Yorkshire

This is the “perfect place to spend a full autumn day out”, said Condé Nast Traveller. September and October are prime months for apple picking, with plenty of other activities to keep you entertained. The abbey has its own cider mill, and you can learn about the site’s history of making its own apple juice and cider. Once you have enough apples, “you can visit the abbey, explore the grounds and indulge in an afternoon tea”.
ampleforthabbey.org.uk

Brogdale Collections, Kent

This south east gem is known for its “diverse array of fruits, set in a stunning natural setting”, said Lauren Hughes in Country Living. Visitors can opt for guided tours which run until the end of October, allowing you to “explore the grounds and sample seasonal fruit”. Most importantly, the orchard also runs “Pick Your Own Fruit” weekends until 1 November, with both apples and pears available to get your fructose kick!
brogdalecollections.org

Hillfield Nursery, Norfolk

More than 250 varieties of apple are planted at Hillfield, “meaning the season starts early in the summer and finishes well into autumn”, said Rebecca Seal in National Geographic. The William Crump and Ellison’s Orange varieties are “rare”, and just two of many “real treasures among the trees”. Apple aficionados can also broaden their horizons, sinking their teeth into “plums, quince and medlars”, with the latter “a wonderful fruit that’s barely ever cultivated and looks like a cross between an apple and a rosehip”. They can be “picked hard, sour and unripe in autumn and then stored inside until they become aromatic and sweet” when they are usually used to make jam.
hillfieldnursery.co.uk

Hawarden Estate, Flintshire

Apples, pears and pumpkins are all up for grabs in this Welsh haven, said Siobhan Grogan in The Times. After filling your punnet, you can head to the estate’s onsite bakery for more sugary sustenance. In the afternoon, expand your range foraging for mushrooms in the grounds: after the three-hour guided woodland walk, you’ll know your “shaggy parasols from your chanterelles”. The estate is also home to an “18th-century castle where the four-time prime minister William Gladstone lived”, so plenty for history buffs too.
hawardenestateholidays.co.uk

Mersey Vale Nature Park, Manchester

Further north, there is “apple picking in abundance”, said Emmeline Banks in Secret Manchester. Mersey Vale Nature Park is a “wonderful destination any day of the week”: the city’s traditional community-run orchards sit next to “two ponds with dipping platforms” and a “wildflower meadow”. It is “more of an informal experience” here, with members of the public free to “wander through the trees, taking in what nature has to offer, and pick the tasty apples for themselves, free of charge”. There’s a real drive to use the nature reserve to “educate and support locals in eating healthily and understanding the importance of local produce”.
stockport.gov.uk/community-orchards

It’s not surprising that a trip to the Galapagos Islands “tops many travellers’ wish lists”, said The Times. The “far-flung Ecuadorian archipelago” is home to “astonishing landscapes” and an array of rare wildlife from blue-footed boobies to marine iguanas and giant tortoises.

It is best navigated by a small ship, all of which are “strictly regulated” in order to protect the “pristine natural area known to have inspired Darwin’s theory of evolution”. These vessels are limited to a maximum of 100 guests, and travel with “resident naturalists” to share fascinating insights about the surroundings.

We took an early morning flight from Quito to Baltra Island in the centre of the archipelago before boarding the National Geographic Islander III, said Marc Shoffman in The Independent. With just 48 guests it’s an intimate boat: you won’t find any waterslides or ice cream shops, but my daughters were happy “snorkelling among the turtles, parrot fish and manta rays in the unseasonably warm waters”.

There are “a few rules” to follow. Guests must travel in groups of up to 16 and be accompanied by an expert guide to “keep crowds down”. You can’t take anything home with you, however tempting, and you must always stand six feet away from the wildlife. The reward is how close you can get to the incredible creatures that seem “unbothered” by human presence.

It’s worth getting up early to avoid the heat and “capture the wildlife at its calmest”. On South Plaza Island we were greeted by “sleepy sea lions and the region’s unique swallow-tailed gulls”, and on Las Bachas “rare birds such as the red-footed booby and shiny white Nazca boobies simply waddled by”. The best moment, though, was watching the “famous giant tortoises as they calmly ate grass at the Rancho El Manzanillo, unfazed by our gawping”.

If you love the water, Celebrity Cruises is a good option, said The Telegraph. During the seven-night itineraries guests have plenty of opportunities to “splash around with the archipelago’s diverse and diverting marine wildlife”. Snorkelling sessions are a great way to get close to sea turtles, reef sharks and, if you’re lucky, the “darting, bullet-like form of a Galapagos penguin”.

Or if birdwatching is more up your alley, try one of Silversea’s luxury expeditions exploring the Outer Loop. The first stop is Genovesa, dubbed Bird Island for its incredible variety of avian life including the “hard-to-spot short-eared owl” and magnificent red-throated frigatebirds.

Istanbul is a city that seamlessly blends old and new. One moment you’re standing beneath the soaring domes of an Ottoman mosque, the next sipping cocktails overlooking one of the world’s busiest waterways as sleek ferries weave between Europe and Asia. Few hotels capture the contrast better than The Ritz-Carlton Istanbul. Named the city’s best hotel in the 2026 Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards and ranked sixth in Europe, it occupies prestigious Süzer Plaza in the elegant Dolmabahçe district, away from the busiest tourist streets yet within an easy walk of Taksim Square and Dolmabahçe Palace.

With 239 rooms and suites, Turkey’s only Nobu restaurant, four further dining venues, a rooftop terrace with infinity pool and an extensive subterranean spa, it makes an ideal base for exploring one of the world’s most intoxicating cities.

Why stay here?

After a day negotiating Istanbul’s energetic streets, the rooms feel wonderfully restorative. Our partial Bosphorus view room is flooded with light thanks to lofty ceilings and large windows framing water, woodland and the city skyline. Soft neutral tones are lifted by a curved leather-and-wood headboard, striking blue wall art inspired by traditional Turkish textiles and elegant pendant lighting that gives the room warmth rather than hotel uniformity.

In the bathroom, white Turkish Afyon marble is paired with hand-painted Iznik tiles, tulip motifs and a handsome dark-wood vanity. A deep soaking tub, walk-in rainfall shower and Diptyque Philosykos toiletries invite an unhurried bathing ritual before dinner.

Guests looking to splurge can book the 120 sq metres Ritz-Carlton Suite, complete with dining room, whirlpool bath and panoramic Bosphorus views, or the Nobu Suite that combines Japanese minimalism with Turkish craftsmanship and features a private terrace with an onsen tub overlooking the water.

There’s much to tempt beyond the bedroom too. Descend to the hotel’s expansive spa where you’ll find a traditional hammam, treatment rooms, indoor pool and fitness facilities, or make straight for The Roof, where Istanbul unfolds beneath you. By day, guests recline on chunky loungers beneath towering palms and oversized parasols and cool off in the petite infinity pool; by evening, the atmosphere shifts as DJs take to the decks. Yoga classes and open-air cinema nights are also held in this appealing rooftop space.

Eating and drinking

The Roof is the perfect place to begin the evening. As the sun dips behind the skyline, cocktails arrive. My Lychee Tax – a deliciously fruity blend of strawberry rum and lychee purée – slipped down quickly.

The Ritz-Carlton is home to Turkey’s first Nobu, still one of Istanbul’s hardest restaurant reservations to secure. The celebrated Japanese-Peruvian menu delivers all the signatures that have made the brand famous worldwide. We began with buttery toro with yuzu and pulled beef tacos scented with truffle before moving on to Nobu’s legendary black cod, which lived up to its reputation, and perfectly steamed turbot bursting with clean, delicate flavours. Every mouthful was a surprise.

Breakfast and dinner are served at Atölye, a light-filled dining room delivering sweeping Bosphorus views. The menu celebrates modern Anatolian cuisine using regional ingredients and traditional recipes with a contemporary twist. Smoky aubergine atom, reminiscent of an elevated babaganoush, and black cabbage stuffed with walnuts and roasted peppers made memorable starters before beautifully cooked shrimp arrived alongside hibeş, a rich, spicy tahini dip. Exceptionally tender lamb Küşleme was served with crisp aubergine chips, and dessert took the form of an ingenious fig-shaped pudding that concealed flowing fig jelly beneath a white chocolate shell. Watching darkness settle over the Bosphorus as dinner unfolded made the experience all the more memorable, helped by attentive but discreet service.

For something altogether different, Limoré brings Italy to Istanbul. Bright, contemporary interiors provide the backdrop for handmade pasta, excellent pizzas and generous Italian classics. Bucatini cacio e pepe would satisfy even discerning Romans, and truffle risotto, osso buco and sole mugnaia round off a dinner that tasted just like nonna made it.

Things to do

One of Istanbul's greatest pleasures is discovering how effortlessly the city layers empires, religions and cultures. Although traffic is often gridlocked, the efficient tram network makes many of the major sights surprisingly easy to reach.

Begin at the Grand Bazaar, where more than 4,000 shops are packed in a labyrinth of vaulted passageways that have bustled with traders for over 500 years. Amid the calls of merchants selling spices, carpets, jewellery and ceramics, we stocked up on fragrant Turkish delight before wandering towards Sultanahmet, home to two of the city’s greatest architectural treasures.

The sixth-century Hagia Sophia remains one of the world’s most extraordinary buildings. Originally a Byzantine cathedral before becoming an Ottoman mosque and now an active place of worship once more, its vast marble interior, soaring dome and shimmering gold mosaics still inspire awe nearly 1,500 years after it was built. Just across the square, the Blue Mosque is equally magnificent. Its six slender minarets dominate the skyline, while inside more than 20,000 hand-painted blue Iznik tiles decorate the cascading domes. Between prayer times, visitors quietly share the space with worshippers, who gather at the fountains outside for ritual ablutions before entering.

For a change of pace, head to Balat, one of Istanbul’s most characterful neighbourhoods. Its steep cobbled streets are lined with brightly painted Ottoman houses, art galleries, vintage boutiques and second-hand bookshops, offering a more bohemian feel than the grand monuments of the historic peninsula. We paused at the delightfully quirky Velvet Café for cappuccino and a superb serving of rich Kaymaklı un helvası before visiting the remarkable Bulgarian Church of St Stephen, whose prefabricated cast-iron construction and dazzling gilded interior make it unlike any other church in the city.

Back near the hotel, Taksim Square marks the heart of modern Istanbul. From here, lively Istiklal Street threads through elegant 19th-century buildings housing international brands, cafés and historic landmarks including the Church of St Anthony of Padua. Don’t miss the compact but excellent Pera Museum, home to celebrated Orientalist paintings, Turkish ceramics and a café centred around a piano once owned by Maria Callas. Afterwards, head back through leafy Cihangir, where independent coffee shops, vintage stores and Istanbul’s famously pampered street cats provide a reminder that some of the city’s greatest pleasures are found on a quiet wander.

The verdict

Superbly located between historic and modern Istanbul, The Ritz-Carlton delivers polished service without pretension. Add beautifully appointed rooms, Bosphorus views, Turkey’s first Nobu, an excellent spa and one of the city’s finest rooftops, and it’s easy to see why it ranks among Europe’s most celebrated luxury hotels.

Vicki was a guest of The Ritz-Carlton Istanbul; ritzcarlton.com

Tucked into a dense forest in Trentino’s Val Rendena, Lefay Resort & SPA Dolomiti occupies an enviable position perched on the edge of the town of Pinzolo, one of the gateways to the UNESCO-listed Dolomites.

Opened in 2019, the resort cascades down the mountainside across nine levels, with contemporary architecture that complements the landscape rather than competing with it. While many alpine hotels lean heavily on knotty pine and chalet nostalgia, Lefay takes a more refined approach. The exterior combines locally sourced larch and fir; the interiors layer chestnut, oak, stone, leather and bronze in a palette that feels quietly luxurious rather than overtly rustic.

The soaring A-frame bar is the architectural showpiece, its timber ceiling echoing the jagged silhouette of the Brenta Dolomites beyond. As dusk falls, the mountains perform one of nature's great spectacles: enrosadira, the phenomenon that bathes the limestone peaks in shades of coral and crimson. It’s best enjoyed from a window seat with a glass of Trentodoc sparkling wine or a classic Negroni in hand.

Why stay here?

Accommodation comprises 88 suites and 23 private residences, all generously proportioned and designed with understated elegance. Our suite was a blend of alpine warmth and contemporary Italian design: chestnut panelling, buttery leather armchairs, oversized rugs and sculptural lighting softened by a calming palette of taupe, charcoal and cream. A spacious living area included a work desk, generous seating and a large television, while the bedroom featured a king-size bed dressed in crisp Beltrami linens, a second, swivelling, TV and huge sofa positioned to frame the mountain views. Two walk-in wardrobes offered space for ski gear and hiking clothes alike.

The bathroom occupied almost the entire length of the suite and felt more spa than ensuite. Grey marble lined the expansive walk-in shower, and a deep whirlpool bath comfortably accommodated two. A private Finnish sauna, twin vanity areas and Lefay’s signature horse chestnut and verbena toiletries completed the indulgent experience.

The resort’s centrepiece is its 5,000 sq metres spa – one of the largest in the Alps. Inspired by traditional Chinese medicine and the changing seasons, it encompasses a series of thermal experiences including a Finnish sauna, salt grotto, tepidarium, hydrotherapy pools, plunge pools and sensory showers. Quiet relaxation rooms and outdoor terraces are focused firmly on the surrounding peaks, encouraging guests to look up rather than down at their phones. The heated indoor-outdoor infinity pool, complete with massage jets and bubbling hydrotherapy stations, proved the perfect perch for mountain-gazing.

Eating and drinking

Dolomia, the resort’s all-day restaurant, enjoys panoramic mountain views through floor-to-ceiling windows and centres around a striking glass wine cellar showcasing bottles from across Trentino-Alto Adige and beyond. Breakfast is particularly impressive, with fresh pastries, seasonal fruit, local yoghurts, eggs cooked to order and regional cheeses and cured meats. At lunch, hearty mountain dishes share the menu with lighter Mediterranean fare. Standouts included paccheri with slow-cooked white veal ragù, grilled beef entrecôte with roasted potatoes and a richly satisfying Caesar salad topped with prawns. A toasted sandwich filled with locally produced Fontal cheese and sautéed red cabbage elevated comfort food into something more memorable.

Dinner continues the regional theme, with beautifully executed northern Italian cooking. Buckwheat ravioli filled with Prà Fiorito cheese and Swiss chard celebrated local artisanal ingredients, while a refined chicken cacciatore demonstrated impressive restraint. Unmissable desserts included a subtle wild berry cheesecake on a chocolate cookie base.

The culinary highlight, however, is Grual, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant named after the mountain that rises behind the resort. The intimate dining room evokes an alpine woodland at twilight, with deep teal walls, sculptural lighting and stylised tree motifs.

Chef Matteo Maenza builds menus around ingredients sourced from the surrounding valley, mountain pastures and high peaks. It offers tasting menus of eight or 12 courses, but ordering à la carte allows each dish to shine. Red turnip gnocchi paired with smoked ricotta and black tea delivered earthy complexity; rabbit ravioli with candied walnuts and local cheese struck a perfect balance between richness and finesse. A beautifully constructed cocoa millefeuille provided an elegant finale. Service throughout was warm and impeccably judged.

Things to do

The Dolomites take centre stage year-round. During summer, the Pinzolo cable car climbs to Doss del Sabion at 2,100 metres, where panoramic views stretch across the Brenta range and an extensive network of walking trails caters for everyone from casual hikers to experienced mountaineers. Winter transforms the area into part of the Skiarea Campiglio Dolomiti di Brenta, linking the pistes of Pinzolo with Madonna di Campiglio and Folgarida-Marilleva for a combined 150km of skiing. The hotel shuttles skiers to the cable car.

Back in town, Pinzolo remains refreshingly low-key, with weekly markets selling local produce, clothing and handcrafted goods alongside independent cafés serving excellent cappuccini.

The spa treatments are central to the resort and deserve dedicated time in the itinerary. In a private chalet-inspired treatment suite, the Amongst the Forest ritual began with a shared soak in a handcrafted wooden tub before a couples’ massage using aromatic mountain herbs designed to ease tired muscles. The 80-minute Il Cerchio della Luna Anti-Ageing Facial combined Lefay’s botanical skincare range with deeply relaxing massage techniques, and L'Aurora nel Lago invited us to float for 40 minutes in a warm salt pool beneath a star-filled ceiling – unexpectedly meditative and wonderfully calming.

The verdict

Lefay Resort & SPA Dolomiti successfully reimagines the alpine wellness hotel for a modern international audience. The architecture is striking without overwhelming its surroundings; the food celebrates the region with confidence, and the spa itself is reason enough to visit. Whether your idea of a perfect mountain escape involves swooshing down the mountains, hiking through the Brenta Dolomites or simply watching the evening alpenglow from a bubbling outdoor pool, this is one of Italy’s most sophisticated mountain retreats.

Vicki was a guest of Lefay Resort & Spa Dolomiti; lefayresorts.com

A winding five-hour drive from Bhutan’s capital, Thimphu, the Phobjikha Valley is one of the Himalayan kingdom’s most beautiful places, and also a prime spot to see black-necked cranes, said Ian Trower in DestinAsian.

With their striking black-and-white plumage and crimson crowns, these rare birds are “revered” by locals, who call them “birds of heaven”. Conservation efforts have helped boost global numbers from around 6,000 in the 1990s to more than 17,000 today, and each year several hundred overwinter in Phobjikha’s “farm-fringed” wetlands.

Their arrival is celebrated with a festival of folk music and dancing at the 17th-century Gangtey Monastery. Tour operators such as Ampersand and hotels such as the luxurious Gangtey Lodge offer bird-watching walks, and there’s also an exhibition at the valley’s “decagonal” Black-Necked Crane Information Centre. Go between November and mid-March, when the birds return to the Tibetan Plateau for the summer.

Hiking in the mountains of Bavaria

It’s not particularly popular with British visitors, but the Allgäu region of southern Bavaria is a lovely place for summer hiking, said Will Hide in The Times.

On a recent trip, I stayed at the Hubertus Mountain Refugio, a 66-room “wellness resort” with a big spa, an outdoor pool and friendly staff dressed in dirndls and lederhosen. The surrounding Alpine peaks rise above 2,600 metres and allow for lots of long, bracing walks through woods and flower meadows.

For lazier days, there’s plenty of cultural interest within easy reach, including Lake Constance (a 45-minute drive west), the picturesque historic town of Kempten, and Neuschwanstein, the “fairy-tale” palace built by King Ludwig II. Two of his other residences – Hohenschwangau and Linderhof – are also within striking distance.

A coastal walk in northern Cumbria

Few corners of the UK feel as on the edge of things as the north Cumbria coast, a low-lying strip hemmed in by the Lake District fells, said Chris Moss in The Guardian.

It is beautiful but “gritty” too, and scarred by industry in parts, as I discovered on a recent three-day walk along its portion of the England Coast Path. From Maryport (a pleasant town where L.S. Lowry liked to paint), I went south to St Bees Head, with its “spectacular” cliffs, a journey of 23 miles.

Highlights along the way included Workington (a friendly place that “looks as its name sounds”) and Whitehaven, surely one of England’s “loveliest” coastal towns – a former “industrial powerhouse” with “crumbling” grandeur in spades, but which also has a “striking” new hotel, The Edge, an angular, “rust-coloured” building by the sea.

Known for their mild climate and “sandy botany”, the four Charente islands lie just off France’s Atlantic coast. With their “preposterously pretty” harbour towns and great oyster beds and salt marshes, they have long drawn holidaymakers, said Antonia Quirke in Condé Nast Traveller.

But though they “jump with life” from early summer, they retain an “enduring tranquillity” and an “immaculately civilised” air. Best known is the Île de Ré – the second largest, at 33 square miles, and the smartest, favoured by wealthy Parisians and so “utterly Gallic” it feels “as if staged by set dressers”. Oléron – the largest, at 67 square miles – is busier and “less bourgeois”, but it too is “full of fresh air” and “good spirits”, as are Aix and Madame, which are tiny by comparison.

From La Rochelle, it’s a quick drive over the toll bridge to Ré. In its “stylish” main town, Saint-Martin-de-Ré, families stroll along the port and through the “stone-flagged” lanes, where bicycles are propped everywhere below “sun-blistered” shutters.

Equally lovely is the village of Ars-en-Ré, where locals queue for quiche and fruit tarts at the bakery in the main square. Honeysuckle “droops” down terrace walls, and scattered across the countryside beyond are whitewashed cottages “fringed in hollyhocks”. The landscape has a “timeless” quality, with its low horizons, pine forests and vast stretches of sand “the colour of apricots”.

Along the coast, shacks sell a half-dozen “world-class” oysters for a few euros, and there are some wonderful food markets in the towns. Ré has some of the archipelago’s best places to stay, such as Hôtel le Sénéchal and Hôtel de Toiras. But it’s worth spending time on Oléron too, an island that looks “especially astonishing” when approached by boat from Ré.

On a recent trip, I cycled around its “mesmerising” marshes, still “prowled” by paludiers, who harvest salt using wooden hand tools. I also visited the Île d’Aix, where you can tour the villa from which, in 1815, the British took Napoleon off to exile on St Helena.

Rising from the Kazakh steppe – a vast sweep of grassland so flat that the horizon seems to run in a perfectly straight line – Astana has few hills, forests or other natural features to interrupt the view. Yet the city itself is anything but understated. Giant pyramids, sweeping towers, an 150-metre-high tent and one of Central Asia’s largest mosques punctuate the otherwise level landscape, giving the capital a rather theatrical presence.

This is largely because modern Astana is a young capital. It became Kazakhstan’s capital, succeeding Almaty, in 1997, when it was still a relatively small northern city known as Akmola. What followed was a vast programme of construction – with architects from around the world brought in – that turned the northern steppe city into the political and administrative centre that it is today.

The result is a city of striking contrasts. Spend the morning having a look at the ambitious architecture, the afternoon walking beside the Yesil River, and the evening eating horse sausage in a hidden cocktail bar. There is plenty here that is polished and monumental, but some of the best experiences are considerably more ordinary.

Things to do

The best place to understand Astana’s architectural excess is Nurzhol Boulevard, the ceremonial spine of the modern city. The broad 2.5km pedestrian axis runs between the Khan Shatyr shopping centre and the Ak Orda Presidential Palace, passing some of Astana’s most recognisable buildings along the way.

The landmarks arrive in quick succession on a walk along the boulevard: the Presidential Palace, the sweeping headquarters of government ministries and the distinctive Northern Lights (Severnoye Siyaniye) towers – a trio of curving, blue-green glass skyscrapers that appear to lean towards one another. Baiterek Tower stands roughly in the middle, its golden sphere visible from much of the surrounding city. With a viewing platform at 97 metres above the ground and open to visitors, this is the city’s centrepiece, inspired by a Kazakh legend of the tree of life and the mythical bird Samruk.

At the end of the boulevard, it is difficult to miss Khan Shatyr. Norman Foster’s 150-metre-high structure looks like a gigantic translucent tent and is officially the world’s largest tent-shaped building. Inside, however, the concept is much less exotic. It is a shopping and entertainment centre with shops, restaurants, cinemas and an indoor amusement area.

You’ll also find Sky Beach Club here: an indoor beach with imported Maldivian sand, palm trees and warm water. It is a strange but rather enjoyable response to Astana’s climate. In a city where winter temperatures can plunge to brutal levels, the idea of going to the beach without going outside is difficult to argue with. Entry to Sky Beach is expensive, so unless you are desperate for tropical temperatures in the middle of the steppe, it may be enough to admire the architecture and move on.

For a more local scene, head towards the Yesil River. The promenades on either bank make for some of the city’s nicest walking and cycling, flanked by coffee, boba and ice cream shops aplenty. The Atyrau Bridge, a pedestrian and cycle bridge built as a gift from the Atyrau Region for the capital’s 20th anniversary, links the two sides with a striking structure inspired by a sturgeon fish, referring to Atyrau region’s Caspian fishing heritage. During the summer, the river also becomes a cooling-off spot for the locals. The Gorodskoy Plyazh, or city beach, is a designated swimming area in Central Park, and on warm afternoons it fills up quickly.

For another reminder of the scale of the new Astana, visit the Nursultan Mosque. Opened in 2022, it is the largest mosque in Central Asia, with four 130-metre minarets surrounding a huge blue-and-white dome that can accommodate more than 30,000 worshippers. One of the minarets has a lift to observation decks at 90 and 110 metres, offering an unusually good perspective on the city.

Over the other side of the river, Saryarka, one of the older districts, is a useful antidote to the monumentalism of the new capital. The historic centre has an old square, fountains and a collection of low-rise buildings, including several former merchant houses, like that of Matvei Kubrin, built in the early 20th century and now occupied by a supermarket. Other buildings associated with the Kubrin family have been converted for different uses, their survival offering a glimpse of the commercial town that existed here before Astana became a capital.

The Holy Assumption Cathedral – one of the city’s major Russian Orthodox landmarks – is yet another reminder of Astana’s layered identity, bringing a very different architectural vocabulary to the streets. Meanwhile, the Wall of Peace is a small but interesting monument to the city’s role as a venue for international religious and diplomatic dialogue. Neither needs hours of sightseeing, but both help discredit the idea that Astana is simply a city of shiny new buildings.

Astana’s surroundings are considerably greener than the city itself. Burabay National Park, about three hours away by train, makes an easy day trip. Take an early train to Borovoe station and arrange a taxi to take you around the park. The landscape changes quickly and pine forests, granite hills and clear lakes replace the flat steppe around Astana.

Hike Bolektau Peak for views over Burabay and the Chebachye Lakes, go boating on Burabay Lake, or rent a bike to explore some of the area’s extensive cycling trails. In summer, Chebachye is also a popular swimming spot.

There are several stops worth building into the day. Aqmaral deer farm collects naturally shed antlers for use in traditional medicine, while Sokolov’s cheese farm produces around 38 varieties using Italian techniques, with wheels of mature cheeses including a 31-month-old Montasio ageing on wooden racks in a cool storeroom.

For lunch or breakfast, Tary Café’s signature breakfast – featuring qatlam, a flaky pastry filled with cheese, qazy horse-meat sausage, eggs, ayran cheese dip and tea made from zhide, or oleaster berries – is particularly good. The cafe overlooks the lake and pine forest, making it an especially pleasant place to eat after arriving by train.

Eating and drinking

Astana has a growing restaurant and bar scene, although it is still considerably smaller than Almaty’s. Qazaq Gourmet is a good introduction to contemporary Kazakh cooking in a polished setting with wine pairings. The restaurant’s menu combines traditional recipes from around Kazakhstan with modern techniques, and their 11-course Ómir tasting menu uses individual dishes to explore different aspects of Kazakhstan’s culinary and cultural traditions.

Line Brew has been part of Astana’s dining scene since 1997, and is best known for its house-brewed beer, with the line-up ranging from a straightforward premium lager to fruitier pomegranate, raspberry-lime, wild strawberry and blackcurrant brews. Its sprawling menu runs from Burgundian-style escargots, to steaks and dry-aged beef.

For cocktails, Temple Bar is considerably more clandestine. There is no obvious sign, and the entrance looks sufficiently like a janitor’s cupboard that you may wonder whether you have taken a wrong turn. Once inside, red velvet curtains open into a dim, living-room-like space furnished with mismatched sofas and lamps. There is no cocktail menu. Instead, the bartender asks what spirit you like, what flavours you want and how strong you want the drink to be. Ask for something spicy and sour with tequila and you might end up with a clarified coriander cocktail, suspiciously close to exactly what you wanted. The bar also serves zhaya, made from the salted, cured, and smoked or dried meat of a horse’s rump. Astana, it seems, is quite happy to be futuristic and traditional at the same time.

Where to stay

The Hilton Garden Inn Astana is a comfortable base for your visit to the Kazakh capital. It is centrally located, making it relatively easy to reach the main sights, while its rooms and service offer a level of comfort that feels more expensive than the rates suggest. The Russian and Turkish steam rooms are a welcome place to unwind after a full day of crossing Astana’s enormous distances.

Avantika was a guest of Visit Astana and Visit Aqmola.

Andy Burnham will give England’s mayors the power to introduce an uncapped tourist tax. This will be set as a percentage cost of accommodation – rather than a flat fee – at the discretion of regional leaders. Housing Minister Angela Rayner chaired a virtual meeting at No. 10 North today to discuss the tax.

The plans were initially announced under Keir Starmer’s government at the last Budget and outlined in the King’s Speech in May. In his first speech as prime minister, Burnham committed to starting the scheme towards the end of the 2027-28 financial year.

This tax could “raise hundreds of millions of pounds” for local public services, said The Guardian. But it could also be a “blow for the hospitality industry”, already “squeezed by tax rises and extra employment costs”.

Where would the money go?

A tourist tax would allow mayors to “prop up crumbling local authority finances and invest cash back into the area”, said The Telegraph.

Local authorities are already facing a financial “crisis”, with a “record 35 councils now relying on £1.5 billion of emergency government financial support to balance their books”. This would also allow the 14 regional mayors in England a new “revenue-raising stream”, especially when they are unable to raise council tax bills, which is still a council-level decision.

This is part of Burnham’s “wider devolution agenda”, said The Times. He has also been a long-standing supporter of overnight levies, implementing a “city visitor charge” in April 2023 while he was mayor of Greater Manchester. It consisted of a £1 per room per night fee, which was designed to “pay for measures aimed at attracting more visitors”.

Does this happen elsewhere?

A tourist tax, or overnight levy, already exists in some parts of the UK. After Holyrood passed a law permitting the levies in 2024, Edinburgh introduced a 5% overnight rate this summer, capped at five nights. Glasgow also has a 5% rate, while Aberdeen’s is 7%. However, these rates are at the discretion of local authorities, with no central cap.

In Wales, a capped levy of £1.30 per person per night will be introduced in April 2027. This is reduced to 75p for hostels and campsites. The cities of Manchester and Liverpool also have voluntary schemes, of a £1 and £2 per room per night charge.

Across the world, major cities such as New York, Amsterdam and Rome all employ variations of a tourist tax. Berlin also applies a 7.5% tax on accommodation costs, while Paris has a tax based on the type of accommodation. For an overnight stay in a two-star hotel, for example, there is a €3.25 (£2.86) charge, and for a four-star hotel the rate is €8.45 (£7.43). Lisbon, however, levies a flat rate of €4.00 (£3.52), up to a maximum of seven nights.

How will it affect the hospitality industry?

Implementing these taxes is “not going to be painless”, Allen Simpson, chief executive of UKHospitality, told BBC Radio 4’s “Today” programme. He claimed it would add roughly £100 to £120 to the average cost of a family holiday, and feared that by devolving only one tax-raising power, mayors would “pull that lever until it snaps”.

Simpson’s trade body also claimed the move would cost 33,000 jobs and cause a £2.2 billion hit to the UK’s GDP. Other global destinations with a cap on their tourist charges have much lower VAT rates than the UK.

New Conservative shadow chancellor Andrew Griffith said that an uncapped tourist tax would be “hugely limiting for the chances of the young people who might otherwise be employed in tourism and hospitality”. It would also be “utterly wrong” to use the funds for “propping up dodgy town hall finances on the back of even higher youth unemployment”.

However, Mayor of London Sadiq Khan welcomed the proposal, arguing that a “well-designed, modest” overnight visitor charge would “raise and invest funding locally”.

Sweden’s “second city”, Gothenburg, is less crowded than Stockholm and, thanks to the “icy, clean water surrounding the coast” is known for its excellent seafood, said Arielle Domb in The Independent.

Located on the country’s southwest coast, at the mouth of the River Göta, the city has been a “crucial” destination for the fish and shellfish trade since the 18th century. Its daily indoor fish market, Feskekörka, is still open today. Housed within a building that resembles a church with “pointed Gothic arch windows”, you’ll discover “vibrant fish stalls” selling everything from lobsters and crayfish to whole salmon. A two-day seafood festival “celebrating west coast ingredients” takes place every September, this year from 18 to 19.

Gothenburg is “brimming” with trendy restaurants and coffee shops. Bar Bulot is a lovely spot for natural wines and seafood dishes like “delicate halibut ceviche with thin slices of melon” or “oyster with a tangy tapioca mignonette”. For a really “exquisite” meal try Champagnebaren, where you can feast on “edible flower-decorated dishes that look like paintings”. And if you feel like a cocktail after dinner, head to the “stylish” bars Bruno or Unity Jazz, both “around the corner”.

If the city has one “must-see district” it has to be Haga, said Alicia Miller in National Geographic. Grab some salty liquorice at Lakritsroten to munch while you explore the “cobbled streets and cute boutiques”, and stop to browse in the antiques shops.

There is “nothing more Swedish” than fika – slowing down for the country’s cherished “coffee-and-cake ritual”. If you want to “feel like a local” go to “sip artisanal coffee” at da Matteo on the central shopping street of Magasinsgatan before buying a sourdough cinnamon bun from Alvar & Ivar to “nibble in Slottsskogen park”.

To “get to grips” with the city’s history, consider spending an afternoon at the Museum of Gothenburg which is “primely placed in the 18th-century former Swedish East India Company headquarters, on the banks of Stora Hamnkanalen” (Great Harbour Canal).

Perhaps best of all, Gothenburg is within easy reach of a “beguiling” archipelago, said Lizzie Frainier in The Times. Vrångö, the southernmost inhabited island, is just a 30-minute ferry ride from Saltholmen port. With fewer than 400 residents, it’s home to two “ruggedly beautiful” nature reserves, each with its own hiking trail. There is only one hotel on the island – Kajkanten Vrångö – where traditional boat houses have been transformed into pared-back “self-catering” accommodation that look out over the water. Order a seafood hamper from nearby Fiskeboa to enjoy the “sweetest langoustines you will ever taste”.

Home to the world’s largest Japanese diaspora, as well as sizeable Korean and Chinese communities, the Brazilian megacity of São Paulo is one of the best places outside Asia to enjoy Asian food, said Austin Bush in Travel + Leisure.

In the thriving Japanese district of Liberdade, where street lamps resemble torii gates, beloved old izakaya (Japanese pubs) rub shoulders with stalls selling Japanese-Brazilian street food such as hot rolls – breaded, deep-fried sushi.

The nearby district of Bom Retiro has a similar concentration of Korean bars and restaurants. And, in recent years, a new culinary wave has emerged, as chefs create bold fusion dishes or, more subtly, adapt Japanese recipes to uniquely Brazilian produce, from Amazon river fish to jambu, a tongue-tingling herb. Among the finest exponents of these trends are the “highly acclaimed” Kotori, Aizomê, Kanoe and Goya Zushi – restaurants as exciting and distinctive as any in the city.

A Croatian island without the crowds

Croatia’s best-known islands (Hvar, Korčula and so on) lie in its far south, but there are plenty of others, many of which are beautiful but much less touristy. Among them is Dugi Otok, said Mark Palmer in The Times – a verdant, 26-mile-long sliver of limestone that lies an easy ferry ride from the fascinating harbour town of Zadar.

Take a boat tour of the nearby Kornati National Park, an “otherworldly” wilderness of stark, arid islands criss-crossed with ancient stone walls. And be sure to spend some time in Zadar itself (I can recommend the Hotel Bastion), an elegant place with some lovely museums and architectural “treasures”, including impressive Roman remains.

A week-long walk in the eastern Alps

An “epic” 466-mile hiking path, the Alpe-Adria-Trail runs from Austria, via Slovenia, to Italy’s Adriatic coast. For anyone wanting to see the magnificent Alpine landscapes through which it passes, however, there’s an easier option, said Paul Bloomfield in The Telegraph: the Alpe-Adria Circular. This 83-mile circuit passes through all three countries, offering an intriguing sample of their overlapping cultures, and is usually done in a week (Walks Worldwide has a self-guided eight-day package, with luggage transfers, from £895).

Most walkers start in the Austrian town of Villach, from which the path winds through wildflower meadows and beechwoods to “chocolate-box” Alpine pastures, “teal-emerald” lakes and photogenic hamlets such as Borgo Lussari in Italy. The highest point is the 6,043ft summit of the Schwarzkogel, with spectacular views of the Julian Alps – including Triglav, the triple-peaked mountain that adorns the Slovenian flag.

A remote town of some 900 souls beside Hudson Bay in Canada, Churchill is known as the “polar bear capital of the world”. Every autumn, as the bay freezes, hundreds of these bears gather around it before heading out across the ice, and thousands of tourists come to see them. But Churchill also hosts another annual wildlife spectacle, said Oliver Smith in the Financial Times – one that attracts fewer visitors but is equally worth seeing.

Each summer, thousands of beluga whales migrate to the mouth of the Churchill River, to feed on small fish and nurse their young. These pale cetaceans, which grow up to 18ft long, look from a distance like countless “white-topped waves” in the river (which is more than a mile wide here), and visitors can safely kayak and paddleboard among them.

Churchill is inaccessible by road, so I flew there in a prop plane from Winnipeg, admiring the “vastness” below, where sunlight danced on rivers, and the forest gradually gave way to tundra. (You can also travel by train – a two-day journey.)

The “wind-harassed” town sits in pancake-flat surroundings studded with “landmarks of rust and ruin” – the wrecks of a cargo plane and a steamship, the remains of an old rocket research facility, and so on. I stayed at the Churchill Northern Studies Centre, where lay visitors mingle with research scientists.

My six-day Belugas for the Bold itinerary included shared accommodation, guided nature walks, lectures on ecology and indigenous culture, and water activities. The town’s museum has beautiful indigenous artefacts, and on walks you will see lovely flora and might spot polar bears.

But most wondrous is the chance to see the belugas. Apparently, they are sometimes “mischievous” enough to tip paddlers into the water, but I felt a great sense of peace among them. So low to the water, I could “almost sense the stroke and whip of each flipper”, and every time a curious whale surfaced, I felt a “jolt of surprise, as though aquarium glass were fracturing”.

The trip costs from £2,075, excluding flights (churchillscience.ca).

When it comes to weekend breaks, a good location is essential. It doesn’t matter whether the hotel is perfect – if the surroundings leave something to be desired, you’ll find yourself longing to get home. Luckily, Woodstock is charming. Just eight miles from Oxford on the eastern edge of the Cotswolds, the pretty market town is lined with traditional stone cottages, old pubs and bakeries.

On a quiet road close to the centre lies The Feathers. Tucked amid 17th-century townhouses, it looks fairly unassuming. But when you step through the doors, it’s clear that this is a swanky spot. Local property developer Daniel Ede bought the hotel in 2023 before carrying out a multi-million-pound revamp. Fast-forward to today and the hotel has an air of confidence: a collection of awards are proudly displayed on a chest in the reception area.

Why stay here?

The location is outstanding. We went for a short walk before dinner and stumbled upon the grounds of Blenheim Palace, where families lounge with picnics on the grassy slopes overlooking the lake.

Back at the hotel, the calming interiors encourage proper rest and relaxation. Our generously sized room – the Goldcrest Suite – had been carefully renovated with plush grey carpets, gilded mirrors and an enormous (and very comfy) king-size bed framed by flowing white drapes.

The layout felt a little unusual – a mini-sofa and TV were tucked awkwardly behind a semi-dividing wall, and the freestanding bathtub is in the main room, although you can pull across a golden chinoiserie-style folding screen for privacy. (There’s also a separate bathroom, with a shower, stocked with Urban Apothecary fig-scented toiletries.) This is likely due to the nature of the rambling Grade II listed building: the total of 23 suites and rooms vary in shape and size.

Thoughtful touches were everywhere, from the carefully selected tapestries adorning the walls to the tasty snacks laid out for our arrival including slices of lemon drizzle cake. Efforts have clearly been made to preserve the building’s historic details like the stone fireplace, while rooms have been updated with modern touches.

Eating and drinking

The Nest is a fun spot for dinner. Glowing wicker lamps sit atop marble tables in the bustling wood-panelled restaurant. Staff are attentive and knowledgeable but unobtrusive, and the cocktails are excellent. The menu changes with the seasons: we enjoyed a goat’s curd and parmesan tart bursting with sweet, juicy Isle of Wight tomatoes and flaky pan-roasted hake served with a decadent vadouvan curry sauce, tiger prawns and fennel shavings. Be sure to order a side of the crispy potatoes and the zingy herb salad. The Cotswolds sourdough rolls with whipped butter were a nice touch, too. If you’re looking for something more casual, head to The Aviary bar and outdoor terrace for pizzas and small plates.

Breakfast is served at The Nest. There’s a selection of fresh juices, pastries and muffins, alongside heartier classics like the full English, or smoked salmon sourdough crumpets.

Things to do

You won’t find a gym, spa or pool at The Feathers, but there’s plenty to do nearby. Keen walkers can set out on foot into the grounds of Blenheim Palace to soak up the stunning scenery. Afterwards, head back into Woodstock for ice cream at Alfonso Gelataria on the high street.

Oxford is a short drive away; consider a day trip to the historic city to wander through the colleges, go punting along the River Cherwell, or while away an afternoon in one of the many pubs or cafes.

The verdict

The Feathers ticks a lot of boxes for a weekend break. It was a cool, calming refuge when we visited during one of the many summer heatwaves, but come autumn it will be cosy and inviting. This is the type of place you leave feeling exactly as you should: well-rested, refreshed and relaxed.

Irenie was a guest of The Feathers, feathers.co.uk

Midnight sun is a simple enough concept in theory, but it’s oddly disorientating in practice. I was almost a thousand miles north of Iceland, closer to the North Pole than to Reykjavik, and I knew the summer days would last all night. But my eyes or mind (or maybe even my soul) just wouldn’t stop waiting for dusk.

On overcast afternoons, the sky often brightened as the evening wore on, as if the world were turning in reverse. Sometimes, long after a sensible bedtime, the sun would break through the cloud for the first time that day. I took photos, but they didn’t capture the weirdness. They couldn’t, of course, because the sense of weirdness came from within – from my body clock and its sense of how the world had always worked, until that moment. Now, thrillingly, it seemed that all bets were off.

Under the skin of the Arctic

It’s a soulful place, Svalbard, all rock and ice and sky. The peaks are dark and snow-capped, the valleys deep and glacial. Sometimes photos come out black and white even when you take them in colour. The sea, rarely out of sight, has many moods: near the glaciers, it is flat and milky from the minerals released after centuries trapped in ice. Further out in the fjord, it is black, glossy and angular. Our guide steered skilfully through the swell and we pitched, rolled and occasionally crashed our way through the white-frothed waves.

We were on our way to Isfjord Radio, a historic communications station that directed transatlantic shipping and air traffic from 1933 until GPS rendered it obsolete in 1999. The historic buildings once occupied by radio operators now house guests of Basecamp Explorer, which runs a range of Arctic adventures on Spitsbergen, the largest of Svalbard’s islands. Rugged exteriors and simply furnished rooms are warmed by the exceptional hospitality of the Basecamp crew, who conjure up sophisticated tasting menus featuring Arctic fish and game. Reindeer tartare with fig and black sesame was one of the highlights; a smoky seal yakitori was another.

I had spent the previous two nights at Nordenskiöld Lodge, the most remote of the three Basecamp Explorer properties, and indeed the world’s northernmost commercial accommodation. You are totally off-grid here, relying on solar panels and a log-fired stove (and sauna). Home-cooked meals are prepared by your hosts, whose responsibilities also include taking a dinghy out to the nearby glacier and hauling in boulder-sized chunks of ice to melt down for drinking water and cooking.

A Svalbard safari

Every visitor wants to see a polar bear, but only a few will be lucky. I almost was, which felt unluckier still: the day after I left, a mother and her two cubs wandered past Isfjord Radio. (The day before that, one member of my group had spotted a whiteish bear-shaped object, some distance away, amid a field of dark gravel and moss. “I cannot be certain it’s a rock,” our guide said, lowering her binoculars. So maybe I had been lucky after all.)

They may be hard to find but polar bears are common enough, and dangerous enough, that armed guides are compulsory anywhere outside Longyearbyen, the archipelago’s largest town (which is not that large – its population of 2,100 is outnumbered by the bears). In the town itself you may see Arctic foxes, patrolling the lower slopes of the valley, and dozens of geese. At sea, eider ducks are common, puffins slightly less so, but you will see them from time to time, flapping alongside the boat. They seem to work hard to stay in the air, unlike the elegant Arctic terns that soar high above.

We saw seals, too, lounging on little icebergs, and reindeer, both from the boat, as they meandered along the shore, and on land, as we hiked to a walrus colony. Our most memorable encounter was with a pod of minke whales. We had, in theory, finished sightseeing and were motoring back to the lodge when a gyre of gulls caught our guide’s eye. Soon we saw fins, and then a whole head lurching out of the water in front of us, its throat swollen with seawater and fish. We spent an hour with them, watching them dive and then surface again in some unexpected place. The backdrop was spectacular too: black hills in the distance under billowing clouds.

A seasonal adventure

Summer and winter deliver two different Svalbards. In one, you will cross dark, frozen seas by snowmobile and race through valleys with a pack of huskies. In the other, the dogs pull a wheeled cart rather than a sledge, and you have to stick to gravel tracks – but you can kayak in the shadow of a glacier, dodging the remnants of the pack ice.

One constant is the promise of a sauna (and an icy plunge) at the end of the day. The other, at Nordenskiöld Lodge, is the glacier. Just a few hundred metres from the cabin, it’s your constant companion – and impossible to ignore. Sometimes it was the creak or rumble of ancient ice that caught my attention, but I was drawn to it when it was quiet too. Each time I looked it seemed a little different: the packed snow deeper blue or brighter white, the ice cliff more or less forbidding.

Hiking high on to its plateau revealed previously hidden textures. Crags barely visible from the ground reared up above us, and deep crevasses fell away below. With spikes strapped to our boots and icepicks in hand, we climbed ridges, followed frozen streams and rested by an eerily blue lake.

The sun was obscured by leaden clouds, but the glare was strong. Night would not return to these slopes until the first, fleeting sunset of the autumn, six weeks later. By then the glacier would have received a fresh coating of snow, the sea temperature would be falling again and the residents of Svalbard would be readying themselves for the long polar night.

Holden Frith was a guest of Basecamp Explorer. The company’s seven-day signature summer adventure is £7,450 / $10,090 per person, based on two people sharing, including all meals, activities and boat transfers.

Great Yarmouth’s Britannia Pier bagged the top prize at the National Piers Society’s annual Pier of the Year competition – and it’s easy to see why. With a rich history dating back to 1858, the pier has recently undergone a serious renovation and now features two on-site pubs, food stalls, various rides and one of the country’s few surviving pier theatres. But there are plenty of other piers for a fun family day out. Here are some of our favourites.

Llandudno Pier, Conwy

Last year’s Pier of the Year winner was this “splendidly Victorian” structure in north Wales, said The Sunday Times. Stretching 2,295ft into the Irish Sea, it “takes a fair bashing” from the elements. There’s a Ferris wheel at the landward end and benches dotted all along it for visitors to contemplate the “beauties of the bay on one side and the massive limestone headland of Great Orme on the other”.

Clevedon Pier, Somerset

If it’s beauty you’re after, head to Clevedon Pier in north Somerset. Opened in 1869 “to receive paddle steamer passengers from Devon and Wales”, it’s England’s only Grade I-listed pier made with “discarded wrought iron railway lines shaped into eight arches” almost 15 metres high, said The Guardian. “Clevedon without its pier would be like a diamond with a flaw,” the then poet laureate John Betjeman said during a campaign to save it from demolition in 1980.

Southwold Pier, Suffolk

Southwold remains “delightfully unspoilt”, said Cambridgeshire Live. Expect “colourful beach huts”, a working lighthouse and an Edwardian pier stretching into the North Sea that’s “packed with entertainment, shops and eateries”. It’s perhaps one of the UK’s “most eccentric” piers thanks to the arcade of “wacky” slot machines designed by inventor Tim Hunkin that provide “endless seaside fun”.

Blackpool piers, Lancashire

Blackpool is the “proud home” of three piers, said The Guardian. The oldest surviving is the Grade II-listed North Pier, which features an “art-deco theatre, a two-tier carousel, bars and an arcade”. On the Central Pier you’ll find the big wheel and a bar with live shows, while the South Pier promises a “high-octane funfair” with a rollercoaster and reverse bungee ride. Just watch out for seagulls when you stop for fish and chips.

Set beside the “cobalt” Moray Firth, a half-hour drive east of Inverness, Nairn is “arguably Scotland’s finest seaside town”, says Robin McKelvie in The Telegraph. Its beaches are beautiful, with their “starched white” sands, and its high street is “as elegant as any in the Highlands”. It is “alive with independent businesses” including bijou galleries, “old-school bakers” and “Instagram-friendly” artisan cafés.

Try the ice cream at James’s (the “creative” flavours, such as almond croissant, are a delight) and the Scottish seafood at Strathnairn Beach Café. The “classiest” place to stay is the Golf View Hotel – “a Victorian palace where time stands gloriously still”. And there’s much to see nearby, including Cawdor Castle (of “Scottish play infamy”) and wild places such as Culbin Forest, where scenes from Christopher Nolan’s recent “The Odyssey” were shot.

A wild coastal walk in New Zealand

At the northern tip of New Zealand’s South Island lie the Marlborough Sounds, a maze of deep, jagged ocean inlets and forested peninsulas. Tracing the length of one of these wild, winding promontories is the glorious, 46-mile Queen Charlotte Track, says Helen Pickles in The Times.

It’s one of the country’s most spectacular long-distance hiking paths, and the only one on which tour operators (such as Wilderness Guides and Marlborough Sounds Adventure Co) offer daily luggage transfers, typically included in a four-day package with nights in lovely, remote lodges. There are some steep climbs, but the highest point is only at 475 metres, and it’s all worth it for the “breath-catching ridge-line views”, sense of isolation and “dazzlingly empty” beaches along the way. Go between October and April, but note that the weather is always “capricious” – so pack sturdy waterproofs and plenty of spare clothes, including shorts and T-shirts.

Brescia’s amazing Roman remains

Long known mainly as an industrial city, Brescia isn’t touristy – but it’s a handsome place, says Mia Aimaro Ogden in The Sunday Times, and worth visiting especially for its “extraordinary” Roman remains. They include amazingly vivid temple frescoes and one of the finest surviving Roman bronzes, the 6ft-high “Winged Victory of Brescia”.

While in town, be sure to see the frescoes by Giandomenico Tiepolo (son of Giambattista) in the church of San Faustino, and the “marvellous” Santa Giulia history museum, which occupies a monastery dating back to AD753. Stay if you can at Lenel, a stylish new boutique hotel housed in a “surprisingly lovely” old electricity substation; eat at El Licinsì, an excellent osteria; and note that Lake Garda lies only 15 minutes away by train.

I’ve never been as excited by fossilised monsters as I am by living creatures, says Ruaridh Nicoll in the Financial Times, but my four-year-old son is crazy about dinosaurs. Not only can he tell an Opisthocoelicaudia from a Micropachycephalosaurus, he can actually pronounce their names. So I decided to take him on holiday to Utah. With an array of “major dino-sites”, this state is arguably the best place on Earth to entertain a “dinosaur-mad” child, and it has enough glorious wild places to keep most parents happy too. We flew in to Salt Lake City, in the north of the state, and drove three hours east to Vernal, which sits at the top of the Dinosaur Diamond – a roughly diamond-shaped, 486-mile highway loop that passes close to all the places we wanted to see.

In Salt Lake City, we visited the Natural History Museum of Utah, where Santiago was thrilled by some “Tyrannosaurus gnashers” and a whole herd of Allosaurus skeletons “bringing down a massive, similarly unfleshed Barosaurus”. And Vernal itself was fun, with big fibreglass dinosaurs in front of half of its cafés, petrol stations and hotels, including our own, the Dinosaur Inn & Suites. More thrilling, however, was the Dinosaur National Monument, a reserve 30 minutes’ drive away through the foothills of the Uinta Mountains, “a rubble world glistening with every mineral colour imaginable”. Here, in 1909, the palaeontologist Earl Douglass dug up more than 350 tonnes of fossils, including Diplodocus and Stegosaurus, but left many more: there is a covered gallery where 1,500 bones “still poke from the dirt”.

At nearby Green River, we spent an idyllic hour paddling in the cool mountain water, then went kayaking and fishing at Red Fleet Lake, where we saw the footprints left by a Theropod on the rocky shore. Among other highlights were the Utahraptor State Park, the Prehistoric Museum in Price and – my favourite – the wonderfully remote Nine Mile Canyon, where ancient petroglyphs depicting animals and “spooky trapezoidal people” adorn the towering rocks.

The sight of a white cloud-like trail streaming behind a plane “set against a bright blue sky creates a romantic image of aviation”, said Aerospace Global News. But their existence “also represents the darker side of flying”.

These innocuous-looking trails “are one of the most urgent yet solvable climate challenges facing aviation today”, said Google, which is taking part in a £5 million trial known as Operation Blue Skies headed by the UK government. Together, they are looking to explore whether tweaking flight paths could address this problem.

Heat trappers

The streams are known as “condensation trails”, or “contrails”, said Google, which is partnering with the government, the Met Office, air traffic control provider NATS and researchers from the University of Cambridge and Imperial College London.

These trails form when aircraft engine emissions encounter extremely cold air found at high altitudes, causing tiny ice particles to develop. They often fade soon after they appear, but very cold and moist atmospheric conditions can allow them to linger and spread. Over time, they may contribute to cloud formation that traps heat that would otherwise radiate away from the Earth.

Contrails are sometimes known as “vapour trails” but they’re different to so-called “chemtrails”, which conspiracy theorists claim are secret chemical or biological agents being sprayed on purpose for weather and population control, or geoengineering projects.

Trails ‘persisted and widened’ 

In 2019, around 40 million scheduled passenger flights took place, adding up to around 38 billion miles of travel, said The Economist. And more than 40% of these flights left contrails behind them for at least part of the journey. Many were “ephemeral”, but in more than 5% of the total distance flown – “comfortably enough for 10 round-trips a day to the Moon” – they “persisted and widened”, becoming cirrus clouds. “In doing so they warm the planet.”

Operation Blue Skies is based on a theory that if scientists, using artificial intelligence, can predict the areas of the atmosphere where contrails are likely to form, jets would be able to avoid them.

The trial will focus on the Shanwick airspace in the eastern half of the North Atlantic corridor, which accounts for around 5% of global contrail warming. Using satellite images and flight data to identify where planes have previously produced contrails, and combining these with weather patterns, Google will forecast where the conditions for new contrails are most likely to occur. Air traffic controllers will then direct pilots to avoid those areas.

But far from “dramatically changing” the route of a flight, the aircrafts’ altitude will only change by around 2,000ft. This is the same sort of re-route that occurs already to “avoid turbulence and bad weather” so passengers are “unlikely to notice”, said the BBC.

The data centre question

Testing will take place during evenings and nights in the winters of 2026-27 and 2027-28, when the volume of air traffic is lower. Approximately 10,000 flights are expected to pass through the airspace during the trial periods.

Changing the altitude of an aircraft “can mean it burns more fuel”, which raises the “obvious question” of whether avoiding contrails “simply” creates additional carbon emissions elsewhere. Paul Hodgson, Google’s technical lead for the operation, said the “CO2 penalty is in the order of less than 1%” and that is outweighed by the climate benefit of preventing a warming contrail.

Questions have been raised over Google’s involvement in the project. It is “one of many big tech companies spending billions on new data centres – the giant, power-hungry banks which power AI” and have serious implications for climate change.

Most people who visit Ireland head straight for Dublin or Galway, said Andrea Bussell in National Geographic. Even some locals aren’t familiar with the “great green valley that stretches through County Tipperary” in the heart of the country’s “Ancient East”. But, tucked between the Galtee Mountains and a “forest-clad sandstone ride known as Slievenamuck”, the Glen of Aherlow is the perfect place for a “slower, nature-centric” holiday.

Here, “tall emerald mountains” rise from “cattle-grazed pastureland flecked with miles of trees” and “scattered rural villages”. To get to know this stunning landscape and discover its “most sacred corners”, explore the Heritage Trail. Along it, there are many artefacts and landmarks to visit, including the “striking, well-preserved” remains of Moor Abbey on the banks of the River Aherlow, and St Pecaun’s Holy Well between Bansha and Cahir, where people have visited for centuries to pray and drink the “therapeutic waters”.

County Tipperary is known as Ireland’s equestrian capital and a visit here “wouldn’t be complete” without taking a riding lesson; Ballyhoura Trekking Centre and Hillcrest Equestrian Centre are good options.

“For me, nothing beats an evening by the water at Garrykennedy,” said Vic O’Sullivan on Lonely Planet. This tiny village on the eastern shore of Lough Derg is a “sublime” setting, with an “old stone harbour” and bobbing sailboats moored at the pier. Enjoy “hearty pub fare” and a pint in the Larkins’ beer garden before wandering down to Ryan’s to listen to live music and watch as “sky and shoreline darken to an inky blue”.

Sports fans should visit Thurles’ Semple Stadium to catch some hurling. Watching this native sport with a roaring crowd is a “thrilling cultural immersion”: “even if you don’t know the rules, the speed and passion of the game will leave you hooked”.

Travelling by car is the best way to soak up the area’s “magic” and reach the villages where buses don’t go. Before you leave, be sure to pay a visit to the Rock of Cashel. Perched on a “limestone outcrop”, the medieval ruins are home to a round tower, a 13th-century cathedral and Cormac’s Chapel, “where faint Romanesque frescoes still survive”.

For every traveler who wants to kick back and relax on their vacation, there’s another who refuses to sit still. These seven hotels and experiences are for the active voyager who is never too far from their golf clubs, knows where all the best tennis courts are and is always game for a new sport.

Play padel at Adare Manor, Ireland

Pickleball had its moment, and now it’s padel’s time to shine. A mix of tennis and squash, this racket sport is growing in popularity, and Adare Manor has the perfect spot to learn the game or hone your skills.

The Padel Club houses two custom-built padel courts, with instructors on hand to teach newbies and a selection of racquets to borrow. Once the ancestral home of the Earls of Dunraven, the grand Adare Manor sits in a “secluded” area, and its many activities on top of padel, like fishing and falconry, are “fit for Irish nobility,” said Forbes.

Hit it out of the park at the rooftop batting cages at ‘Alohilani Resort, Oahu

It’s all swings, no misses when you have a view like this. The rooftop at ‘Alohilani Resort is part of the property’s fitness hub, and guests can gaze out at Waikiki Beach and feel the Pacific Ocean breeze while practicing their hitting in the batting cages. An open-air TRX gym and red clay tennis courts are also located on the recreation deck, which often hosts yoga classes and other wellness events.

Pick up polo at Coworth Park, England

It’s “hard to imagine a more pleasant setting” than Coworth Park, tucked away in the Berkshire countryside, said The Telegraph. There’s a lovely meadow filled with wildflowers, lake with swans and polo fields where you can take customized lessons through the Guards Polo Academy. Learn to properly swing a mallet and glide across the field, or for the more confident rider, enjoy a day out playing with polo club members.

Get your heart pumping at Miraval Arizona, Tucson

At Miraval Arizona, you’re encouraged to take a flying leap and go out on a limb — safely, of course. While on the property’s Challenge Course you can also swing through the air, climb up a giant ladder, cross a tightrope and elevated platforms and zipline.

The course “encourages you to step out of your comfort zone, both physically and mentally” and is “designed for personal growth,” said Condé Nast Traveler. The Sonoran Desert spreads out around you, a “stunning backdrop” to your adventure.

Hang 10 at Nobu Ryokan Malibu, California

The Pacific Ocean is your playground when staying at Nobu Ryokan Malibu. The 16-room property is right on Carbon Beach, and through its new surfing program, guests can ride the waves on a custom surfboard during a private lesson from Malibu Fit Concierge. Afterward, put on your best bathing suit for a two-hour water photo session with celebrity photographer (and former competitive surfer) Steven Lippman.

Try wing foiling at Oil Nut Bay, British Virgin Islands

Water sports are a big deal at Oil Nut Bay. This beautiful property provides “pure laidback luxury,” and that extends to its activities, said Travel and Leisure. Tubing, waterskiing, wakeboarding, snorkeling, kayaking, paddleboarding, kiteboarding and Hobie Cat sailing are all offered (with instructors and experienced drivers), plus two more unusual options: wing foiling and Seabobbing. Wing foiling is developed from windsurfing and kitesurfing, while a Seabob is an electric underwater scooter.

Explore the trails at Río Perdido, Costa Rica

The outdoors is your gym at Río Perdido. Hike, run, do yoga or take a peaceful stroll on the property’s 1,500 acres.

Guests have access to a vast network of solid rock trails for mountain biking that twist and turn through dry forest and a thermal canyon, and can spike their adrenaline by whitewater rafting on the Tenorio River. This proves to be “both intense and exhilarating if the rapids are strong,” said Condé Nast Traveler. Wind down in the property’s naturally heated thermal river and mineral pools, covered by a canopy of lush tropical foliage.

Baros Maldives is the grande dame of resorts in the archipelagic country. A tiny island located near the capital Malé, it’s been open since 1973, one year after the first hotel appeared in the Maldives. It channels many years of experience to provide flawless service as well as one of the most easily accessible house reefs teaming with colourful fish.

Why stay here?

It takes 25 minutes by speedboat to get to Baros from Malé – no waiting around for a seaplane transfer after you land. The atmosphere is low-key but looks-wise the island is a showstopper – it’s surrounded by a beautiful aquamarine lagoon with stunning beaches and vibrant marine life.

You can walk around the whole island in 10 minutes. It was peaceful and quiet during my visit. I didn’t see any children even though it’s not explicitly an adults-only resort (kids over eight are welcome).

The most impressive thing about the resort is the house reef, with abundant fish, just a few metres from the beach. I saw colourful schools of fish flashing neon as they whizzed past me, a stingray bobbing along and a small shipwreck on the seabed, with coral nurseries threaded through the withered remains. Night snorkelling is also available and you’ll often see people floating on by, illuminated by their torches in the darkness, as you eat dinner on the terrace at one of the restaurants.

Beach and overwater villas are styled like traditional cottages, while the interiors are decorated in greys and beiges with colourful patterned rugs. The terraces come with a large outdoor sofa, sunbeds and an infinity pool for guests to do laps as they gaze out into the startlingly blue sea. The look is understated rustic chic that is simple and unobtrusive.

Eating and drinking

Lime Restaurant is located by the pool with sea views. At the breakfast buffet you’ll find plates of freshly cut fruit, sushi, several types of Maldivian curries, dumplings, cold cuts, salads, cereal and pastries galore. There’s also a fantastic à la carte menu, which includes eggs benedict, a chia mousse açai bowl and a Japanese breakfast set, which comes with grilled salmon and miso soup.

For lunch, there are two options – Sails Bar on the beach or Cayenne, the grill restaurant overlooking the sea. They both serve the same menu at lunch. At Cayenne, I ate delicious tiger prawn skewers covered in olive oil and punchy garlic with the tastiest chargrilled flatbread. I returned for dinner one night and enjoyed a perfectly grilled whole lobster with steamed vegetables and their zingy signature salad with mixed leaves, avocado, plump mangosteen and hazelnuts.

The Lighthouse is a fine dining restaurant that serves up French cuisine with an Asian twist – the bar upstairs is also the perfect spot to watch the sunset. I ate a tender wagyu steak with a tasty peppercorn sauce, crisp potatoes and artichokes. Around me, other guests opted to have dishes cooked at their table. I saw a lobster bisque being flambéed from a cart – this is classy dining with dramatic flair.

Things to do

It’s hard to beat a sunset cruise. As I floated along on their traditional boat Nooma, I enjoyed non-alcoholic champagne and canapés. The roof is padded so you can sit down comfortably while taking in the views. Watching the sky turn orange and pink while surrounded by the sea was really peaceful. Dolphin-watching and sunrise fishing trips as well as other excursions are also on offer.

Baros has a piano deck – a wooden platform shaped like a piano – that sits in the middle of the sea, where it’s the dreamiest shade of aquamarine. It’s only reachable by a short speedboat trip and once there you can eat a sunrise breakfast or have a romantic dinner during the sunset. It’s an intimate and novel destination for a cosy meal with an endless expanse of the sea cocooning you.

The verdict

Even though it’s close to Malé, Baros is incredibly tranquil. This is the resort to come to if you want to while away your days watching sea chickens scuttling across the sand or herons flying on to your pool in the early hours. Many of the guests are repeat visitors who come back year after year and it’s easy to see why – this intimate island is an oasis of calm.

Ann was a guest of Baros Maldives;you can plan your Maldivian journey with the experts at Angelfish Travel

With tourists starting to be deterred by the frequent heatwaves and soaring prices in the Mediterranean, Lithuania has been growing in popularity as a beach-holiday destination. It is generally cooler and more affordable than the Med, and it doesn’t lack for natural beauty, said Sarah Rodrigues in The Guardian.

On a recent trip, I visited the beach resort of Palanga, “kitsch” and “rowdy” in parts, but I loved its 19th-century Tiškeviciai Palace and “uncrowded” sections of white-sand beaches, where the sea is shallow for a long way out (making them perfect for families). And the Curonian Spit – a forested sandbar more than 60 miles long – is magnificently “untamed”.

I stayed there at the “basic, comfortable” Hotel Nidus, cycled along some of the spit’s wild trails, climbed the 220-metre-high Vecekrugas Dune, and particularly enjoyed eating smoked fish with fresh tomatoes and drinking cold beer at one of the lagoon-side shacks in the village of Preila.

New York’s real Little Italy

There aren’t many Italians living in Manhattan’s Little Italy these days, just a lot of “mediocre” Italian restaurants, aimed at tourists. For the real deal, New Yorkers will tell you to head to Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, said David Farley in The Telegraph – accessible on the B train. A century ago, this low-rise street was known as “the Italian colony” for its community of Italian labourers, and it is still packed with restaurants, delis and bakeries selling produce from the old country. Don’t miss the pinolate biscuits in the 108-year-old Madonia Bakery, or Pace’s Italian Market, which has 100 varieties of Italian cheese. But you should explore the side streets too. They are full of Balkan and Mexican stores and restaurants, the fruits of a new cycle of immigration that began decades ago: “This is America”, after all.

Luxury boltholes in the wild Algarve

Known as the Costa Vicentina, the southernmost stretch of Portugal’s west coast is famed for its towering cliffs and “pristine” surfing beaches. Much of it lies within a protected natural park, but a couple of boutique hotels have recently opened on the site of old farms, said Amelia Duggan in The Times – ideal for travellers who “prefer their wilderness to come with a high thread count”. Set about five miles back from the sea near the medieval town of Aljezur, the Vale Palheiro Earth Resort nestles in an “emerald” valley, its “vast” villas built with rammed earth. And further north, closer to the sea near the village of Odeceixe sits Amaria, a “white farmhouse complex”. Its suites have a “pared-back, contemporary aesthetic”, with walls of glass, “diaphanous” drapes and freestanding baths.

I’ve never liked camping, riding or group travel, so I wasn’t an obvious candidate for a group camping and riding trip in Kyrgyzstan, said Rachel Johnson in The Sunday Times.

I hadn’t reckoned, however, with the “adventuress and entrepreneur” Alexandra Tolstoy, a distant cousin of Leo, who has spent years guiding visitors through this landlocked Central Asian country on horseback (past guests have included the actor Dominic West, the “pie magnate” Charlie Bigham and the late satirist P.J. O’Rourke).

She’s a “natural saleswoman” who made the prospect sound “irresistible” – and thus it was that I found myself on a Turkish Airlines flight to Bishkek in May, to join her and some “yummy mummies from the Cotswolds and Chilterns” for a six-day, 120-mile trek among the “jagged”, snow-capped peaks of the Tian Shan, or Celestial Mountains.

We were accompanied by five Kyrgyz horsemen and a support team who moved our camp daily, packing our tents and the two “plastic thrones that served as our khazis” into former Soviet army trucks and transporting them along sheep tracks. A cook prepared “slap-up” breakfasts, lunches of plov (rice with “gobbets” of lamb) and good dinners (including freshly baked cakes), and I soon found I was enjoying myself – even falling “in love” with riding, camping (“you sleep so well in a snug tent by a rushing river”) and the “nomadic life”.

What helped most, of course, was the “indescribable” beauty of the surroundings – a mountain range that rises above 7,000 metres, and is “Edenic” in the late spring, its green valleys alive with wildflowers. We rode through walnut forests, skirted villages where boys on donkeys herded sheep, and watched a game of kok boru – polo with a goat carcass for a ball (the “tenderised” flesh is then cooked). But honestly, there were “too many highlights to list”, from swimming in “swirling” rivers to galloping beside magnificent lakes to siestas in verdant glens.

The Ultimate Travel Company has a 10-night trip from £7,215pp, excluding flights.

“Hi there. I have received your email. I have printed it off. I’m now using it to light flaming cocktails for the entire bar. Best, Lucy.”

That was an ‘amusing’ out-of-office reply from a British Airways holiday advert a couple of years ago, said Country Life, but there is more to the “philosophy” of these emails than just trying to be funny, said The Atlantic. They can be a “rote obligation or an opportunity to make a grand statement about work and life”.

For some, it is a “simple one-line email”, while others use it to “apologise profusely” for being away or “highlight their indignation at being tied to work or the internet in the first place”. Selecting the right tone requires adhering to a hidden etiquette of rules. And needless to say, ”transitioning between vacation and regular obligations can get complicated”.

‘Cry for help’

It can be frustrating to be hit with a “barrage” of out-of-office (OOO) responses to a group email you have sent, said the Financial Times. You may think your colleagues are “lazy good-for-nothings, slacking off while you toil through the long summer”, but their replies can tell you “so much more”.

Someone who says they will be “checking their emails intermittently” is almost certainly on holiday with their in-laws, and “wants to reply to your email within 17 minutes rather than the usual six”. Then there are those who are even more addicted to being permanently on call, claiming to have “no access to internet”. If they do get access, they say they will have smashed their phone, laptop and smartwatch and “thrown them into the ocean”. This is a blatant “cry for help”.

Then there are the jokey ones. “I am currently out of the office, trying to return home after a successful conquest involving a large wooden horse. It may take me some time.” This person has not checked their company policy and will “shortly be unemployed”.

I went through a phase of setting “funny” out of offices, said Sophia Money-Coutts in Country Life. But I “shudder with horror now” thinking about it. “Life’s too short; time is too precious to agonise” over what you write. “Straightforward is the way to go for everyone involved.”

That said, the “aggressive approach” is by far the worst. Some people not only declare they will be away, but that “all emails will be automatically deleted during that period”. How “irritating”. This would make more sense if they were on a sabbatical or maternity leave, but “it’s quite self-important if you’re only hopping to Mallorca for a week”. And setting an OOO saying you’re off for a “mere afternoon”? A “touch pompous”.

Keep it short, said Forbes. “Your OOO is not your Instagram. Skip the mojito emoji and ‘Off to South Beach, baby!’ Nobody wants your travelogue.”

Another big mistake is not fully shutting it off when you’re back. Doing so the night before logging back on is usually best. “Don’t be that person who leaves the OOO on until three people have reminded you to turn it off.”

‘Set expectations’ before you go

There are some clear “dos and don’ts” when it comes to out-of-office messages, said BBC. And getting it wrong can have “more serious consequences than you might think”.

The optimum reply is “polite and concise”, gives a “specific return date” and at least one other point of contact if appropriate, said the etiquette consultancy Debretts . “Virtue signalling” – or going into too much detail about your time off – is another big “no-no”: it can come across as boastful, “smug”, or that you’re “trying too hard”.

It’s not really about the out-of-office message at all, said Stylist. The most effective team members “set expectations before” they go, outlining how “online” they will be, if at all. This stops colleagues of whatever seniority “second-guessing whether they should follow up” or being confused over what “contactable in an emergency” actually means.

Even sharing good news – whether from your desk or on holiday – can be a detrimental form of “presenteeism”. This can throw someone else into work mode, confuse the boundaries you have set or subliminally pressurise others to follow your example.

Most importantly, it is vital to just “trust your team. We all like to think the place will fall apart without us, but this is a damaging view that will only stop you from fully enjoying your time off.” Planning ahead of time and handing things over properly removes most of the need for communicating while on holiday. Many people forget this but “really, most things can wait”.

All the signs that summer is winding down are here — kids heading back to school, the days getting shorter and Halloween decorations taking over stores. Before giving in to fall’s arrival, celebrate the end of summer by going on a seaside escape. These six destinations offer one last beachy thrill.

Hampton Bays, New York

A weekend in the Hamptons is a summertime ritual for many New Yorkers. There are nearly two dozen hamlets and villages to spend time in, each with its own personality. Hampton Bays, part of the town of Southampton, is a relaxed option.

Set up shop on Ponquogue Beach or Meschutt Beach, and enjoy frolicking in the water and listening to the waves. Spend the night at Canoe Place Inn & Cottages, a “laid-back” waterfront property where the rooms are “well decorated and cozy” and the summer programing, like free outdoor yoga classes and concerts, “shines,” said Condé Nast Traveler.

Islamorada, Florida

South of Miami and north of Key West, Islamorada is the “perfect blend of Old Florida charm and salty barefoot luxury,” said Travel and Leisure. It’s known for excellent sport fishing, a vibrant arts enclave and the “state-of-the-art” Florida Keys History & Discovery Center. Learn about the area’s “complex” history through exhibitions on “Indigenous peoples, Spanish treasure fleets, Henry Flagler’s railway and the 1935 Labor Day hurricane.”

Kennebunkport, Maine

If you’re looking to experience “iconic” and “charming” New England, head to Kennebunkport, said Condé Nast Traveler. This historic town is filled with beaches and opportunities for kayaking, paddleboarding and lobster-boat cruising. Those who prefer to enjoy the water from land can walk around Dock Square, visit the Seashore Trolley Museum and hit up the Lobster Roll Trail for a taste of local seafood.

Pacific Grove, California

Spend any amount of time in Pacific Grove, and you’ll likely start daydreaming about living in this idyllic town. Victorian homes dot the landscape, and the views of Monterey Bay and its wildlife — otters, whales and seals — can’t be beat. Lovers Point Park is a great spot for swimming and picnicking, while Asilomar State Beach gets you close to tide pools.

Pacific Grove has a quaint downtown with cute shops like The Quill, a fabulous stationery and gift store, and beautiful boutique hotels. The historic Seven Gables Inn is right above the bay, and each charming room has windows you can open, letting in the sound of the waves.

Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina

With its surf, sand and “perfect spots to relax and watch the sunset,” this walkable town is a “beach lover’s heaven,” said Southern Living. Take the paved 2.5-mile Loop path to explore the area and soak up the scenic water views, or veer off for visits to Wrightsville Beach Park, the Wrightsville Beach Museum of History and Wrightsville Beach Arboretum. If the farmers’ market is happening, pick up some locally grown produce or handmade crafts.

Yachats, Oregon

Forget about racing around, trying to pack a ton of activities into your visit. Yachats is all about slowing down, connecting with nature and enjoying the scenery.

The best place to do this is at Cape Perpetua, where the forest meets the sea. Go for a hike through the giant spruces or stay at the overlook and stare at the Pacific. Nearby is Thor’s Well, a collapsed sea cave also known as the Drainpipe of the Pacific. Take caution when walking around here; the rocks can be slippery and waves have swept people out to sea.

Lisbon, Portugal’s beautiful capital by the sea, mixes pastel buildings and pretty tiled churches with incredible restaurants and quick access to beaches and mountains. Andaz Lisbon is the newest addition to the city’s hotel scene. Located right in the heart of central Lisbon, staying here is like being blasted with a rush of dopamine – its quirky and fun design choices make it a must-visit for style-conscious travellers.

Why stay here?

Andaz Lisbon is a maximalist’s colour-drenched fantasy bursting into life. Housed in a former bank – with the original doors intact – there’s nothing staid or corporate about this glamorous new hotel. If you’re a fan of Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, you’ll love the hotel’s pick ’n’ mix clash of colours and patterns that are emblazoned on every corner.

When you first walk in you’re greeted by the original marble staircase decorated with Joan Miro-esque vases by Sofia Kruz. The hotel’s design delights in making everything big and bold with giant murals as feature walls in public spaces like the hallways.

Rooms are warm and inviting. A bright orange velvet armchair, pale blue-grey sofa and abstract 3D art on the walls provide pops of colour. There’s open shelving for your clothes with a floor-length mirror. The decor is a modern take on mid-century cool. There’s also a small mini bar with snacks – the first round is complimentary, which is a nice touch.

The bathroom is sleekly decorated with burgundy tiles and matching walls, beige marble, and bronze fittings, with Byredo Eleventh Hour toiletries on offer.

Eating and drinking

With its views out to São Jorge’s castle, an abundance of plants and a patchwork of clashing patterns, rooftop restaurant Luzzi is achingly stylish and brightens up your day instantly – and that’s before you even get to the food. For breakfast, it offers a well-curated buffet with crispy artisan bacon, homemade hash browns, a selection of cold cuts and cheeses, a mini salad station, and coconut pastries and plump doughnuts in their sweet corner. There’s also an à la carte menu where you can order fluffy pancakes or eggs however you like them.

Andaz Lounge downstairs pays homage to the kiosks you find dotted around Portugal offering casual light bites. It’s the perfect spot for lunch – try the cod and sweet potato fritters and the smash burger with port-caramelised onions. Then sink into one of the squidgy bouclé sofas with a tipple – all of the wines offered by the glass there are made by female winemakers.

At night, Luzzi is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner or group party – chef Bruno Alves has created a menu with nods to Portuguese heritage so there are Brazilian chicken coxinha, a doughy snack, and Peking glazed duck rice, which draws inspiration from Macau’s Portuguese heritage. The standout dish is lobster acorda, juicy chunks of charcoal-roasted lobster served with a soup made of bread, garlic and olive oil, infused with a rich seafood flavour – and it’s a hearty enough portion for two. For dessert, try serradura, made from cream and crushed biscuits. Luzzi’s heavenly version is layered with almond, fig, honey and bavaroise.

There’s also a bar with colourful checked walls, comfy low chairs decorated with geometric cushions, and little outdoor terraces – be sure to bag the one closest to the view of Rua Augusta Arch. With its marble tables and dedicated DJ booth, it’s like an upscale club without the sticky floors. Make sure to check out the loo at Luzzi – there’s red (yes, red) toilet paper, which somehow works with the rest of the decor.

The staff are uniformly kind and attentive – at breakfast one day I mention I won’t be staying long as I have to rush off for a day trip and someone brings me a takeaway box and cutlery, with a bag to carry it all in, so I can pack a lunch from the buffet.

Things to do

The hotel’s location right in the heart of Lisbon makes sightseeing a breeze. The iconic – and enormous – square, Praça do Comércio, and the riverside are just metres away. Take a walk around Baixa Chiado, marvel at the Santa Justa outdoor lift connecting the lower areas of the Baixa with the higher Carmo Square, and head to the ruins of an old church at Carmo Archaeological Museum. Don’t forget to grab a pastel de nata – egg custard tart – from the famous pastry shop, Manteigaria.

The verdict

Andaz Lisbon makes a welcome change from the stark minimalism that seems to be the default decor of many luxury hotels. It’s bold, loud and proud, catering to guests who care about good style, and offers an avant-garde twist and fine dining in a trendy new space. Don’t be surprised if it starts popping up on your Instagram feed very soon.

Ann was a guest of Andaz Lisbon

Katendrecht was “once at the heart of the world’s busiest port” and home to a “lively sailors’ quarter”, said Pat Riddell in The Guardian. But this “thin peninsula” on the south bank of the Nieuwe Maas River in central Rotterdam has undergone a dramatic transformation.

The regeneration of historic warehouses has seen the former red-light district turn into one of the city’s “most vibrant” spots, with craft breweries, boutique shops and galleries popping up everywhere. Last year, the opening of the Fenix museum of migration gave a boost to the “formerly downtrodden” neighbourhood’s “lively cultural and arts scene”.

Set within a “century-old warehouse”, this “showstopper” of a museum uses art to portray migration “not as an abstraction or headline, but as a shared human experience”, said Karen Bershtein in Time magazine. Inside, a “mirrored, double-helix steel staircase” winds up to “sprawling views of the River Maas” and the city. Contemporary works include the “Suitcase Labyrinth”: a striking installation “assembled from thousands of donated pieces of luggage”. And “don’t miss the Nederlands Fotomuseum” where you can see a vast collection of Dutch photography, said Derek Robertson in Time Out.

Evenings are easy to fill at the Theatre Walhalla: an intimate venue that hosts an eclectic programme of over 300 performances each year. It’s also worth checking to see whether you can catch a family-friendly show at the youth circus school, Circus Rotjeknor.

When it comes to food and drink, Delistraat is “buzzing from morning to night”, said Riddell in The Guardian. Here you’ll find “flaky pastries” at Jordy’s Bakery, a “huge range of whiskeys” at Café de Ouwehoer, and the “small but perfectly formed fine dining establishment”, De Matroos en Het Meisje, which offers a daily changing menu of four to six courses.

Consider booking a room at Hotel New York where you’ll find luxurious suites in the “former offices of the Holland-America Line’s directors”, or check in at the “permanently moored” former cruise ship, SS Rotterdam, which has been turned into a 254-room hotel. With much of its original decor preserved, it feels like “stepping back in time”.

This is the way to enjoy the British summertime. Battered fish and salt-and-vinegar-seasoned chips have been a staple for hundreds of years, best paired with stinging seaside winds and spray. Wherever you are in the UK, there will always be a handful of chippies vying for your order. Here are some of the best seaside establishments, giving you decades-crafted favourites, and some newer twists on tradition.

Anstruther Fish Bar – Fife, Scotland

“My heart belongs to Anstruther Fish Bar,” said Gordon Thomson in The Telegraph. Edinburgh has “salt and sauce”, a “piquant brown-sauce-and-vinegar combo”, and in Glasgow, the “mighty ‘fish supper’ reigns”, but fish on the east coast of Scotland is something else. Once you’ve navigated the queue under the “watchful eye of the mannequin fisherman”, you settle down into an “old-school caff table”. Last time I was there, I had haddock, with the “most incredible chips – perfectly crisp and yet fluffy inside – and mushy peas, all washed down with white wine and a craft beer”. Truly “award-winning fare”.
anstrutherfishbar.co.uk

Aldeburgh Fish & Chips – Aldeburgh, Suffolk

“The Cooney family and their faithful tribe of fryers have been frying in beef dripping on Aldeburgh High Street since 1967,” said Chris Haslam in The Times. There are actually two spots on the high street to pick up your supper, and you’ll get the “same shatteringly crispy battered fish” at both. Above the second location, the Golden Galleon, there’s a small dining space, but Aldeburgh’s “windswept sand and shingle beach is an unbeatable picnic spot”. I’ve even known a seal to have “bobbed along to say hello”.
aldeburghfishandchips.co.uk

Whelan’s Fish and Chips – Lytham St Annes, Lancashire

Whelan’s has been visited by some esteemed figures in the culinary world – such as Gordon Ramsay and Rick Stein – and yet it primarily “remains a favourite with the locals”, said Delicious. It was established in 1937, and “since it started, not much has changed and for all the right reasons”. They source fish from “sustainable stocks, they use local produce (wherever possible)” and you are always looked after by “welcoming” staff. Of course, you can’t go wrong with something traditional, but keep your eyes peeled for one of the “gourmet fishcakes which often feature as a daily special”.
whelansfishandchips.co.uk

Ainsworth’s – Bridge Street, Caernarfon, Gwynedd

Now this is a “treasure trove of a place”, said Joanna Whitehead in The i Paper. Naturally, “no two chippies are the same”, and each place is “dazzling with individuality”: a “gratifying phenomenon in a homogenised world of chain eateries”. It is hard to beat cradling a “box of their glowing offering under your arm” and heading “to the waterfront to eat between bay and castle”.
ainsworthscaernarfon.co.uk

The Rockfish – Dartmouth, Devon

If you need convincing, look no further than celebrated chef Mitch Tonks’ “65 awards”, said Food and Travel Magazine. “Set overlooking the bucolic River Dart with its fishing boats meandering up and down with the ebb and flow of the tide, you can almost taste how good The Rockfish’s wares are going to be before they arrive.” In winter, the restaurant’s log burner is the perfect antidote to “long yomps across the moors”. There are a few West Country change-ups from your classic chippy menu: the “South Coast calamari with aïoli” and a “South Devon crab roll, served with pickled cucumber, Marie Rose sauce and lashings of sweet white crab meat” are fan-favourites.
therockfish.co.uk

The Yucatán Peninsula is Mexico’s prime tourist hotspot, but most visitors stay in the north, around the “mega-resort” of Cancún and the stretch of Caribbean coast known as the Riviera Maya. The south of the peninsula is a different world, said Martin Symington in The Times – a vast, sparsely populated region which is relatively little visited by holidaymakers.

The distances involved in exploring it are considerable (the Yucatán, which stretches into Belize and Guatemala, is nearly as big as Great Britain), but so are the rewards. As you head south from Cancún, low forest and scrub give way to “deeper, darker” forest, and hidden away among it are some “magical” places, including one particularly “stupefying” sight – the ancient Mayan city of Ichkabal.

In the north, I stayed at Belmond Maroma, “a peach of a beach-fringed hideaway”, and visited the old colonial town of Valladolid, as well as the spectacular Mayan ruins of Chichén Itzá – “an archaeological honeypot up there with Petra or Giza”. Ichkabal feels very different. Its biggest pyramid, at 40 metres high, is taller than Chichén Itzá’s, and stands beside a “stadium-sized” central precinct surrounded by other monumental structures. All are half-covered in vegetation, and set in an “impenetrable” rainforest that stretches further than the eye can see.

This city reached its zenith between AD200-600, and was later abandoned and – incredibly – only rediscovered in 1994, when archaeologists working on another project “stumbled” upon it. Last year, it was opened to visitors, and yet – while I came across several jungle creatures (including a crocodile swimming in one of the city’s original reservoirs) – I saw only a handful of other tourists. Other unmissable sights include the Lagoon of Seven Colours, a narrow, 60km-long lake. Its water is wonderfully clear – great for snorkelling – and there are some “tranquil” boutique hotels on its shores, including the Habitas Bacalar.

Set midway between Amsterdam and Groningen in the northern Netherlands, the village of Giethoorn is the kind of place that should be prescribed for depression, said Gavin Haines in The Telegraph. With its thatched houses and “manicured” gardens, it’s “almost too perfect to be real” – but what makes it particularly “idyllic” is that it’s built largely around canals. Its charms are no secret: it receives about a million visitors a year (roughly a third of them from China), and the central waterway is often gridlocked.

Still, one local said he wasn’t much troubled by the crowds: the village still feels peaceful thanks to the absence of cars, and most of the visitors are daytrippers who leave around 5pm. If you go, book a B&B in advance, and hire a canoe or rowing boat to explore the wetlands in the nearby Weerribben-Wieden National Park.

The timeless charms of Tinos

A relatively quick two-hour ferry journey from Athens, Tinos is one of the more “wild and untouched” of the Cyclades, said Francesca Angelini in The Times – an “otherworldly” place with towering mountains, “frills-free” old chapels and gorgeous beaches. For a family holiday, I rented a “chic, understated” villa through The Thinking Traveller on the “sheltered” west coast, a 15-minute walk from the sandy beach of Kalivia.

From there, we visited other beaches (Kolymbithres was lovely), went on some good hikes, and explored several enchanting villages. I loved “mystical” Tarampados, with its medieval, Venetian-style dovecotes (“ornate” two-storey stone structures), and Volax was wonderful, with its “bizarre” rock formations (boulders which were apparently “hurled down by Zeus in a moment of rage”) – but most “spectacular” was Kardiani, a “maze” of whitewashed houses on the “precipitous” hillside above our villa.

A cookery and craft retreat in Japan

The little Japanese mountain town of Yamanaka is known for its hot springs, traditional crafts and food culture, all explored in Water, Wood, & Wild Things, by the American writer Hannah Kirshner. For those keen to experience them first-hand, Kirshner runs a biannual four-day retreat, Foodways and Craftways, said Jessica Kozuka in DestinAsian.

Guests stay at the “venerable” Hanamurasaki ryokan – an inn founded in 1902 with a rooftop onsen bath – and take part in cookery and craft workshops at Mokkei, a renovated 100-year-old house with an open kitchen. The programme also includes foraging trips, tea ceremony classes at one of the town’s tea schools, and traditional pastry lessons at a fifth-generation confectionery.

The British Museum and the Natural History Museum tend to steal the headlines when it comes to an educational day out. But the UK is also home to many more eclectic offerings. Here are some of our favourite museum oddities across the country.

The Crab Museum, Kent

This Margate museum bills itself as “Europe’s first and only museum dedicated to the decapod”. It’s also one of the UK’s “most bizarre institutions”, said Amy Houghton in Time Out. Founded in 2021, the space is “crammed with crab trivia” and “hilarious tongue-in-cheek information panels”. The exhibits not only celebrate crustacean culture, but humans too. “For instance, there’s a slipper lobster dressed as a suffragette” and a “spotted reef crab dressed as a trade unionist in a diorama depicting the 1926 General Strike”.
crabmuseum.org

British Lawnmower Museum, Southport

“The grass is always greener in Merseyside”, said Etan Smallman in The Telegraph. In this Northwest museum, lawnmowers are “honoured as the revolutionary gadgets they truly are”. Visitors can walk through the history of the machine first patented in 1830 – English engineer Edward Budding tested the prototype at night to avoid the ridicule of his neighbours – and a “plethora of Victorian and Edwardian models”. One of the highlights is the “ever-expanding” showcase of “Lawnmowers of the Rich and Famous”. Old contraptions owned by King Charles, Princess Diana, Alan Titchmarsh and Brian May all feature.
lawnmowerworld.co.uk

The Museum of Witchcraft and Magic, Cornwall

In Boscastle for more than 70 years, this has been “one of Cornwall’s most popular museums”, said BBC Countryfile. Look out for signature exhibits including a “bellarmine jar found hidden in a house near Plymouth – complete with hair, nail clippings and pins”. You can find out about occult practices from British folklore and around the world, and “investigate examples of curses, spells and charms”. At a safe distance, of course.
museumofwitchcraftandmagic.co.uk

The Morbitorium, Wales

This certainly makes for a “peculiar day out”, said Lizzy Reece on Rest Less. It may only consist of three rooms but it is packed with a “huge range of oddities and curiosities”, spanning everything from “antique lobotomy tools and Ouija boards to mummified cats and Victorian sex toys”. There are special “after-dark” tours, and the site offers workshops and you can book a “private tarot, oracle, or rune reading”. “It’s sure to be unforgettable!”
morbitorium.co.uk

The Dog Collar Museum, Kent

This museum is devoted to “canine neckwear, not canonical uniform, by the way”, said The Londonist. Located within the grounds of Leeds Castle, near Maidstone, the museum is home to the largest collection in the world, though it would be hard to imagine “too much competition”. It displays more than 130 collars, spanning an “impressive” range from five centuries.
leeds-castle.com