Corned beef: A tradition worth planning for

Corned beef is a good dish to serve on any day when you’re too busy to do much but simmer a pot.

Come Saint Patrick’s Day, “the one thing you won’t find on the Irish table is corned beef,” says Cathal Armstrong in My Irish Table. Well, that and green beer, another American tradition. In my native Dublin, March 17 is a solemn religious holiday, and families generally take the one-day break from Lenten fasting to enjoy an elegant spring dinner of roast lamb, roast beef, or even baked salmon.

Corned beef is a good dish to serve, though, on any day when you’re too busy to do much but simmer a pot. To cure, or “corn,” your own beef using my recipe, you need to get started 17 days in advance, allowing 10 days for brining (using a store-bought pickling spice and curing salt) and seven for seasoning. I like to serve corned beef with braised cabbage, boiled potatoes, or colcannon—a combination of the two. I top it with a simple béchamel, flavored with chopped parsley.

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