Recipe of the week: Yucatán fish (Tikin xic)

The “simple, flavorful” food of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula is perfect summer fare, said David Tanis in The New York Times. You need a hot oven (or grill) to make fish the Yucatecan way—steamed in banana leaves. But the rewards are substantial.

Yucatán fish (Tikin xic)

• 1 red onion, thinly sliced
• 1 serrano pepper, chopped
• ½ cup orange juice
• ½ cup lime juice
• 2 tsp achiote powder
• pinch cinnamon
• ½ tsp dried Mexican oregano
• ¼ tsp chipotle chile
• ½ tsp cumin seed
• ½ tsp cloves
• 6 allspice berries
• 4 garlic cloves, pulverized
• 1¾ lb grouper fillet, skin on
• 2 tomatoes, sliced thick
• banana leaves

Put onion in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper, then mix in serrano, 3 tbsp orange juice, and 2 tbsp lime juice. Set aside. For marinade: Combine next four ingredients in a bowl. In skillet over medium heat, briefly toast cumin, cloves, and allspice. Grind these to powder, then mix with other spices. Add garlic, a pinch salt, remaining orange juice, and ¼ cup lime juice. Stir to make a paste.

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Season fish with salt and pepper, paint with marinade, and add squeeze of lime. Chill 45 minutes to 2 hours.

Bring fish to room temperature. Heat oven to 425 degrees. Cut banana leaves crosswise and pass them over a burner to soften. Rinse leaves and pat dry. Place a double layer of leaves on a baking sheet and add the fish, skin down. Add pickled onions, tomato, salt, and a squeeze more lime. Lay more leaves on top, wrap, and tie with a string. Bake 25 minutes; let package rest unopened for 15 more. Garnish with remaining pickled onions. Serves 6.