Wine: Prizing flexibility

Most top sommeliers keep on hand a few ultra-versatile wines that pair beauti­fully with everything from ceviche to steak, said Ray Isle in Food & Wine. Below are the standbys of top wine directors at three restaurants with very different styles of food.

NV Sorelle Casa Secco Italian Bubbles Rosé ($14). At Boston’s Marco, Derek Wilson finds that every course of an Italian meal is complemented by this dry sparkling rosé, a pinot noir blend that has “a scent of fresh strawberries.”

2009 Foxen Ernesto Wickenden Vineyard Chenin Blanc ($22). Chris Haisma at Chicago’s GT Fish & Oyster likes a complex and aromatic chenin blanc with “everything from rich scallops to delicate sole.”

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NV Hidalgo La Gitana Pastrana Manzanilla Pasada ($27). At Las Vegas’s Jaleo, Lucas Paya recommends dry sherry with the tapas. This one has an “impressively long finish.”