Recipe of the week: Beef Santa Maria: California’s distinctive barbecue style

In Santa Maria, the way cooks prepare beef dates back to the Chumash Indians.

Plenty of regions across the country are known for their distinctive methods of barbecue, said Steve Heimoff in Wine Enthusiast. On the south-central coast of California, the venerable Santa Maria style is the only way to go. Traditional Santa Maria–style barbecue must be beef and must be “grilled hot over native red coastal oak” logs. Some purists also insist the only proper meat is a tri-tip steak, but others equally steeped in the custom say that any beef will do.

According to locals, this method of ­preparation actually dates back to the Chumash Indians, from whom the Spanish colonial vaqueros adopted it in the 1800s. “After a long day running cattle, the cowboys would load deep earthen pits with piles of red oak, let the coals get super-hot, then pile on the meat.” Depending on the cut, the beef would cook low and slow, for up to 90 minutes.

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