Redefining Southern hospitality

At Mezzanine in Richmond, short ribs are seved on grits, but are first braised in hoisin sauce, lemon grass, ginger, lime leaf, and garlic.

When I zipped in for a whirlwind tour of Richmond, Va.’s eateries, I thought my favorite would be a funky barbecue joint or diner, said Tom Sietsema in The Washington Post. But where Richmond shines these days is in more sophisticated fare.

Acacia “Richmond’s best restaurant” keeps reinventing itself. Acacia has been around a decade, but recently moved to “roomier digs,” where chef Dale Reitzer keeps dishing up excellent appetizers and “dynamite main courses.” Grilled North Carolina grouper is accompanied by ginger-and-molasses sweet potatoes. Bacon-bundled roast duck breast, sweetened with pears and cinnamon, “is sliced in rounds to reveal the edible mosaic inside.” 2601 W. Cary St., (804) 562-0138

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