Redefining Southern hospitality

When I zipped in for a whirlwind tour of Richmond, Va.’s eateries, I thought my favorite would be a funky barbecue joint or diner, said Tom Sietsema in The Washington Post. But where Richmond shines these days is in more sophisticated fare.

Acacia “Richmond’s best restaurant” keeps reinventing itself. Acacia has been around a decade, but recently moved to “roomier digs,” where chef Dale Reitzer keeps dishing up excellent appetizers and “dynamite main courses.” Grilled North Carolina grouper is accompanied by ginger-and-molasses sweet potatoes. Bacon-bundled roast duck breast, sweetened with pears and cinnamon, “is sliced in rounds to reveal the edible mosaic inside.” 2601 W. Cary St., (804) 562-0138

Mezzanine “No one gets a menu” at this new Richmond spot. The dishes are instead listed on chalkboards. Chef Todd Johnson turns out American fare with a decidedly Asian bent. His short ribs are served on locally ground grits, but first braised in hoisin sauce, lemon grass, ginger, lime leaf, and garlic. 3433 W. Cary St., (804) 353-2186

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