High-caliber Italian restaurants have been popping up in San Francisco’s Mission District, said Nick Czap in The New York Times. Among the latest and most notable is Flour + Water, housed in a restored Victorian building on a quiet street not far from the neighborhood’s hub. The philosophy of chef Thomas McNaughton, the former sous chef of the city’s four-star restaurant Quince, is to “make the kind of food that chefs like to eat.”
Flour + Water’s name is a big clue to what he had in mind: pizza and pasta. (McNaughton once worked in a pasta factory in Bologna, Italy.) Diners are greeted by aromas wafting from the kitchen’s wood-fired oven. The tangy margherita, “delicate yet substantial,” is made with fior di latte, a fresh-milk cheese. Among the house-made pastas are a maltagliati with an earthy, braised giblet ragu, and a crescenza cappelletti with roasted corn and a bitter honey that gives the dish “a pleasantly sharp finish.” The dessert list includes a chocolate budino with sea-salt flakes and espresso-caramel cream, as well as a honey-pistachio semifreddo topped with a “mound of green frost” made from simple syrup and an herb granita. 2401 Harrison St., (415) 826-7000
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
-
Why ghost guns are so easy to make — and so dangerousThe Explainer Untraceable, DIY firearms are a growing public health and safety hazard
-
The Week contest: Swift stimulusPuzzles and Quizzes
-
'It's hard to resist a sweet deal on a good car'Instant Opinion Opinion, comment and editorials of the day
