In recent years, the Pacific Northwest has become one of the most exciting foodie destinations in America. An increasing number of top-notch chefs in the Seattle-to-Portland corridor are supporting local farmers and emphasizing regional cuisines.
Spring Hill in West Seattle is among the restaurants “at the top of that list,” said Andrew Knowlton in Bon Appétit. Owner-chefs Marjorie and Mark Fuller use the area’s abundant seafood to create such dishes as this black cod, with a rich chowder that also serves as a sauce. In “a modern take on the classic Italian bread salad,” they use panko in the panzanella.
Recipe of the week
Black Cod With Fennel Chowder and Smoked Oyster Panzanella
Chowder
3 tbsp butter
¾ cup ¼-inch cubes fresh fennel bulb
¾ cup ¼- to 1⁄3-inch cubes peeled Yukon Gold potato
½ cup chopped onion
¼ cup finely chopped leek (white and pale green parts only)
1 tbsp all purpose flour
2 small bay leaves
1½ tsp chopped fresh thyme
One 8-oz bottle clam juice
¾ cup whipping cream
¾ cup whole milk
1 tsp finely grated lemon peel
Melt butter in large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add fennel, potato, onion, leek. Cover, cook until vegetables are just tender but not brown, about 8 minutes. Add flour, bay leaves, thyme; stir 1 minute. Stir in clam juice, cream, milk. Simmer until chowder thickens slightly and flavors blend, about 10 minutes. Mix in lemon peel; season to taste with salt and pepper. Cool 30 minutes; cover and refrigerate.
Panzanella and fish
¼ cup finely chopped celery
¼ cup finely chopped shallot
2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
4½ tsp fresh lemon juice, divided
½ tsp finely grated lemon peel
¼ cup minced smoked canned oysters
5 tbsp unsalted butter, divided
1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme
4 black cod fillets with skin
Coarse kosher salt
¼ cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs), toasted
Toss celery, shallot, parsley, 1½ tsp lemon juice, lemon peel, smoked oysters in medium bowl. Season celery-shallot mixture to taste with salt and pepper. Combine 3 tbsp butter, thyme, 3 tsp lemon juice in small saucepan. Whisk over low heat until butter melts and sauce simmers; season with coarse salt and pepper. Remove from heat. Melt 2 tbsp butter in large nonstick skillet over high heat. Sprinkle fish with coarse salt and pepper. Add fish, skin side down, to skillet. Cook until skin is crisp and fish opaque in center, drizzling lemon-butter sauce over, 6 to 7 minutes. Rewarm chowder over low heat; discard bay leaves. Divide chowder among 4 shallow bowls. Place fish, skin side down, in center of chowder. Stir panko into celery-shallot mixture; spoon over fish and serve. Serves 4
