Feature

Recipe of the week: A festival of potent summer garlic

If you are a garlic lover, the next time you are at the farmers' market keep an eye out for two delicious varieties: green garlic and garlic scapes.

I love garlic so much that plain old cloves no longer satisfy me, said Melissa Clark in The New York Times. Whenever I’m at a farmers’ market, I keep an eye out for green garlic and—my newest enthusiasm—thin, shoot-like garlic scapes. Recently I decided to create a feast of garlic dishes so friends could compare their varied flavors side by side.

Tender crops of green garlic—“bulbs still attached to their green floppy tops”—usually start showing up in markets in the spring. Garlic scapes, by contrast, are a summer delicacy. Extremely thin and “exuberantly loopy,” scapes almost look as if they’re meant not to be eaten but instead put into a vase with flowers. In fact, none of my cookbooks even had an entry for scapes. But after some experimentation and consulting with a professional chef, I was able to devise a potent dip.

Recipes of the weekChai-Spiced Chicken Wings With Green Garlic Aioli

For the chicken:½ fat bulb green garlic, root and green parts trimmed, outer layer removed, or 4 regular garlic cloves, peeled2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil2 tbsp soy sauce1 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice1 tsp ground ginger1 tsp cardamom pods (about 16)1 tsp finely grated orange zest1 star anise½ tsp ground cinnamon½ tsp freshly ground black pepper1 pinch ground cloves2½ lbs chicken wings

For the aioli:½ fat bulb green garlic, green parts trimmed, outer layer removed½ tsp coarse sea salt1 egg yolk1 cup extra-virgin olive oilFreshly squeezed lemon juice, to taste

Coarsely chop ½ bulb green garlic; place in blender with olive oil, soy sauce, lemon juice, ginger, cardamom, orange zest, star anise, cinnamon, pepper, cloves. Blend mixture to rough purée. In bowl, toss marinade with chicken wings; cover. Refrigerate for at least 6 hours or, preferably, overnight. Preheat broiler to high. Use paper towel to brush off most solids from marinade clinging to chicken. Arrange wings on baking sheet. Broil until wings are golden brown and cooked through, about 5 minutes each side.

To prepare aioli, finely chop remaining garlic. Using mortar and pestle, pound with salt until paste forms. Add egg yolk, continue to pound paste until incorporated, then add oil drop by drop until thick, shiny aioli is achieved. Stir in a few drops of lemon juice. Serve wings with aioli for dipping. Serves 2 to 4.

White Bean and Garlic Scapes Dip1/3 cup sliced garlic scapes (3 to 4)1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice, more to taste½ tsp coarse sea salt, more to tasteGround black pepper to taste1 can (15 oz) cannellini beans, rinsed and drained¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, more for drizzlingWater

In food processor, process garlic scapes with lemon juice, salt, pepper until finely chopped. Add cannellini beans and process to rough purée. With motor running, slowly drizzle olive oil through feed tube; process until fairly smooth. Pulse in 2 or 3 tbsp water, or more, until mixture is consistency of a dip. Add more salt, pepper, and/or lemon juice, if desired. Spread out dip on plate, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with more salt. Yield: 1½ cups.

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