Recipe of the week: Amatriciana: A salty twist on a classic

“Starch is comfort,” said Regina Schrambling in the Los Angeles Times.

“Cheese is seduction.” When they’re combined, the result is pure pleasure. A slow-cooked tomato sauce heightens the flavor of both of these ingredients to perfection. Italian tradition often calls for well-aged Parmigiano-Reggiano and/or pecorino Romano as the cheese. But a delightful twist is to substitute Ricotta Salata. It’s a salty cheese with

a noticeable tang, and an amatriciana sauce stands up to it especially well.

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Serve with a pasta with hollow strands, such as bucatini or perciatelli.

Recipe of the week

Bucatini Amatriciana

With Ricotta Salata

Note: Ricotta Salata is available at cheese shops and specialty stores, and at select Whole Foods markets.

2 oz pancetta, in one piece

1 tbsp best-quality olive oil

1 small red onion, peeled, quartered, thinly sliced

1/2 tsp hot red pepper flakes, or to taste

1 (14-oz) can whole Italian tomatoes in purée

Kosher or sea salt

1/2 lb bucatini or perciatelli

2 tsp unsalted butter

1/2 cup finely crumbled Ricotta Salata

Cut the pancetta into 1/4-inch dice. Heat the oil in a deep skillet over medium-low heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring, until it crisps and renders its fat, about 10 minutes. Remove all but about 1 tbsp of the fat

from the pan and discard. Add the onion and cook, stirring until tender and translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the red pepper flakes, then crush the tomatoes into the pan and add the purée. Cook, stirring to crush the tomatoes into the finest bits, for 5 minutes. Simmer 40 minutes, stirring

occasionally.

While the sauce cooks, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil with salt (about 1 tbsp for every 2 quarts—it should taste salty). Fifteen minutes before the sauce is done, add the pasta to the water. Stir and then cook

until it is just al dente, 11 to 12 minutes or according to the package directions.

Reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water, drain the pasta in a colander. Add the butter and toss quickly, then transfer to the pan with the sauce. Stir until the strands are thinly but evenly coated. Add a little cooking liquid if the pasta seems dry. Add half the Ricotta Salata and stir to combine well.

Transfer the pasta to a large bowl or platter and sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Serve hot. Serves 4 to 6.