Salt-roasting is an ancient cooking technique that creates food of startling intensity, said Russ Parsons in the Los Angeles Times. “Many dishes are good; some are excellent. A very few are truly profound” when prepared this way. Salt-roasting can almost always be done at home in less than an hour.
How it works is still something of a mystery. Searing heat combined with an absolute lack of exterior moisture along the surface of the meat seems to force steam created by the cooking process inward. Even a lean meat, such as pork tenderloin, emerges moist when salt-roasted. This memorable meal ends up tasting not salty but suffused with “the gentle perfume of rosemary.”
Recipe of the week
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Pork Tenderloin Roasted
in Rosemary Salt With Fingerling Potatoes
2 tbsp snipped rosemary leaves
6 cups coarse salt
1 cup water
3 tbsp vegetable oil
1 (1-1/4-lb) pork tenderloin
1 lb fingerling potatoes, scrubbed but unpeeled
1 tbsp butter, at room temperature
1 tsp minced shallots
Heat oven to 400 degrees. Combine rosemary and salt in large mixing bowl; stir in water until texture is that of gritty snow. In large skillet, heat oil until surface ripples. Pat pork tenderloin dry with paper towel; sear in hot oil until browned on all sides, about 8 minutes.
While pork is browning, spoon layer of salt about 1/4-inch thick in bottom of gratin or baking dish just big enough to hold pork and potatoes in single layer. When pork is browned, pat dry with paper towel to remove excess oil, and place in gratin dish, laying it down the center. Arrange potatoes around outside and cover everything with remaining salt.
Roast until pork reaches an internal temperature of 145 degrees, about 20 to 25 minutes. At this point, pork will be quite moist, but still a little pink. If you prefer pork to be more cooked, push temperature to 150 for about
5 more minutes. Remove baking dish from oven and set aside 5 minutes to finish cooking.
With sturdy metal spoon or chef’s knife, chip a crack around base of salt crust and carefully lift off top. Use dry pastry brush to brush away any salt on surface of potatoes or pork, turning pork over to brush all sides. Transfer pork to carving board. Slice pork into medallions 1/4-inch thick and arrange on serving platter. Place potatoes in medium bowl and toss with shallots and butter just until coated, discarding excess butter. Arrange potatoes around outside of pork and serve immediately. Serves 4.
