They were names whispered “like the passwords of a secret cult,” says Russ Parsons in the Los Angeles Times. Carnaroli.
Vialone nano. Superfino. Back when most risotto-loving Americans were perfectly satisfied with widely available arborio, a few of us hoarded “the secret rices of Italy.” Now, of course, we can no longer be so smug. A variety of risotto rices, like the many kinds of pasta, is widely available in supermarkets. (And “there is absolutely nothing wrong with plain old arborio.”) These sticky rices, all worthy of experimentation, are ideal vehicles for capturing the flavors of spring. Risotto is “one cult you can never quite quit.”
Recipe of the week
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Risotto with mushrooms and pea sprouts
1/2 oz dried porcini mushrooms
3 cups chicken stock
1/2 lb cremini mushrooms
6 tbsp butter, divided
1 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste, divided
2/3 cup minced onions
2 cups arborio or other risotto rice
1/2 cup white wine
1/4 lb pea sprouts (available at most Asian markets)
1 oz grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/2 cup), plus more for the table
Add just enough hot water to dried mushrooms to cover, soak for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, in medium saucepan combine stock and 5 cups water. Bring to boil, reduce heat to low, simmer.
Quarter fresh mushrooms, sauté with 1 tbsp butter over medium-high heat in small skillet until lightly browned. Season
lightly with salt, reduce heat to medium, cook until mushrooms have reabsorbed their moisture. Set aside.
In large skillet, melt 3 tbsp butter, add minced onion, cook until onion is soft and fragrant, about 4 to 5 minutes. Do not let
onion brown. Drain soaked mushrooms, adding liquid to simmering stock. Chop mushrooms, add to onions along with sautéed fresh mushrooms, cook until fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes.
Add rice, increase heat to medium. Cook, stirring, until rice makes clicking or “singing” sound as it scrapes bottom of pan and outside of kernel becomes translucent, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add wine. Cook, stirring, until it evaporates completely, about 3 minutes. Begin adding simmering stock, between 3/4 cup and 1 cup at a time. Cook after each addition until stock has evaporated enough so that bottom of pan is clean when scraped
with wooden spoon, about 5 minutes. Add 1 tsp salt.
Repeat, adding more stock each time, until rice is chewy but tender, with no chalky center. This will take about 20 minutes.
Do not stir continuously, just when adding stock to pan and when it is nearly dry. Do not use all of stock. While rice is cooking, chop pea sprouts lengthwise in roughly 1/2-inch pieces.
When rice is done, add another 1/2 cup stock to loosen mixture slightly. Remove pan from heat. Stir in 2 tbsp butter and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Stir vigorously to free as much starch as possible, which in combination with cheese will thicken rice and liquid. Taste and season with more salt if necessary. Gently stir in chopped pea sprouts.
Spoon risotto in generous mounds in centers of heated, flat bowls. Serve immediately, passing additional grated Parmigiano for those who want it. Serves 6.
