The decadent Berlin of the 1920s is long gone, said Ursula Heinzelmann in Saveur. But Germany’s capital, after decades of being divided into east and west zones during the Cold War, is now enjoying “a new and more inclusive joie de vivre.” The city’s restaurants offer every conceivable cuisine, yet traditional dishes also remain popular, particularly during the holidays. Berlin’s farmers’ markets have been rejuvenated, and a new generation of home chefs is intent on preparing “unpretentious, ingredient-driven seasonal fare.” Two enduring dishes at this time of year are braised duck legs with turnips and braised red cabbage.
Braised Duck Legs With Rutabagas
(Rübchen mit Entenschenkeln Geschmort)
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Sweet, firm rutabagas, not regular turnips, are the best substitute for the spicy, hard-to-find German Teltow turnips.
6 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
6 sprigs thyme
2 fresh bay leaves
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
6 whole duck legs, each halved at the joint and frenched
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 small yellow onions, cut into wedges
3 cups chicken stock
3 cups Riesling or Gewürztraminer
2 tsp whole allspice
4 lbs rutabagas, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
2 tbsp cornstarch
Heat oven to 325 degrees. Tie parsley, thyme, bay leaves together with kitchen twine to make bouquet garni; set aside. Heat oil in pot over medium-high heat. Season duck with salt and pepper. Add half the duck and brown, turning once, 12–14 minutes. Transfer duck to plate; discard all but 1 tbsp fat. Repeat with remaining duck; discard all but 3 tbsp fat.
Reduce heat to medium; add garlic and onions; cook until caramelized, 12–15 minutes. Add stock and wine; cook for 2 minutes. Return duck to pot with bouquet garni, allspice, rutabagas, and salt and pepper; bring to boil. Transfer to oven; cook, covered, for 1 hour. Uncover; cook until liquid is reduced and rutabagas are tender, 25–30 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer duck and rutabagas to plate. Whisk together Qe cup cooking liquid and cornstarch. Bring remaining liquid to boil, whisk in cornstarch mixture, simmer until thickened, 2–3 minutes. Return duck and rutabagas to pot and serve. Serves 6–8.
Braised Red Cabbage With Bacon (Rotkohl)
The secret to cooking this dish, a classic German accompaniment to a hearty meat course, is keeping the pot covered. This preserves the cabbage’s deep, purple hue.
6 slices bacon, roughly chopped
1 tbsp sugar
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 large Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped
1/3 cup Port
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 large head red cabbage (about 3 lbs), cored and finely shredded
2 cups chicken stock
1/4 cup red currant jelly
Cook bacon in large wide pot over medium-high heat until just crisp, about 5 minutes. Add sugar and cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds more. Add onions, salt, pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are golden and soft, about 10 minutes. Stir in apples, reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until tender, 6–8 minutes.
Add Port, vinegar, cabbage to the onionapple mixture; stir to combine. Cover pot and cook until cabbage is bright purple and slightly wilted, 5–7 minutes. Add stock and salt and pepper. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until cabbage is tender but still red, about 1 1/4 hours. Stir in red currant jelly, season with more salt and pepper, and cook briefly, 4–5 minutes more. Serves 6 to 8.
