Tea and Britain are an "ingrained" pairing, like "Shakespeare and sonnets" or "the late Queen and corgis", said Hannah Twiggs for The Independent. "Whether it's a builder's brew in a chipped mug or something posher served in fine china", a cup of tea is "ritual and identity all in one". But trouble is brewing for the industry.
'Love affair showing cracks' Typhoo Tea, a "stalwart of kitchen cupboards since 1903", is now "teetering on the brink of administration", said Twiggs. It's hardly a surprise: "Typhoo has been running on fumes for years, hit by dwindling sales, supermarket competition and, perhaps most dramatically, a £24m blow when trespassers ransacked its Merseyside factory in 2023". But it's another sign that Britain's "love affair with tea, once fervent and unquestioned, is showing cracks".
Sales of everyday black tea, such as PG Tips and Yorkshire tea, are falling and it has been knocked off the top spot as the nation's favourite drink by another British staple: the gin and tonic. In a recent Mintel survey of more than 2,000 Brits, 44% said they would opt for G&T when meeting friends, while 41% preferred a cuppa.
'Turning our heads towards coffee' Just "like haircuts, petrol and Freddos, tea is getting more expensive", said Nell Frizzell on the i news site. The average price for a pack of 80 teabags has gone up by 11% in one year, according to the Office for National Statistics. The reason tea is becoming more costly is a grim one: "we, as a planet, are careering into ecological collapse". Tea-growing regions in East Africa, Southeast Asia and India are being "hit by flooding, heatwaves" and other extreme weather, "all of which have devastating effects on tea plantations".
But financial cost isn't the only reason for declining demand for "our so-called national drink", added Frizzell. "We are now drinking about a quarter as much tea as we did in the 1970s", partly due to US and European culture "turning our heads towards coffee". That's unlikely to do much good for the environment either, since coffee has "a much higher carbon footprint than tea".
Coffee may one day "lose its edge", and "a younger generation" could become "obsessed with tea connoisseurship – and the charm of that old crockery", said Howard Chua-Eoan at Bloomberg. But in the meantime, "don't lose any sleep over it". |