Britain is falling out of love with Chinese restaurants, according to data that shows our consumption of their fare has more than halved since 2007.
Since the first Chinese restaurant in the UK opened in Glasshouse Street, off Piccadilly Circus, in 1908, Chinese food has "always been popular in the UK", said The Telegraph – "until recently".
In 2008, the average person ate 15g of Chinese food a week outside the home, according to government data. But that dropped to 12g by 2014 and to 10g by 2018. And consumption failed to bounce back after the pandemic, stalling at 7g in 2023. The Canton-style food that Chinese restaurants have traditionally served in the UK is "truly dying", Gordon Chong of the British Chinese Society told The Telegraph.
Bad press Chinese restaurants and takeaways have had to contend with "harmful, stereotypical fear-mongering headlines" and "constant bad press" linking Chinese food to "serious health warnings", said Angela Hui, whose parents owned a Chinese takeaway in Wales, on Vice.
The "meteoric rise" of food-ordering apps has also seen smaller, independent businesses "getting left behind", particularly those run by generations who opened restaurants and takeaways in the 1980s and 1990s. Younger generations are increasingly reluctant to take over the family businesses amid soaring rents, rising costs and changing consumer tastes. Instead, second-generation Chinese Britons are increasingly focused on "getting into professional work", Chong told The Telegraph.
Regional success Although traditional Canton-style "British Chinese" food is on the decline, there is growing interest in regional cuisines, particularly those from Shenzhen and the northern regions of China.
Hungry Brits are "being more adventurous" and "enjoying great dishes" such as xiao long bao and dim sum, Joe Groves, head of consumer communications at Deliveroo, told Vice, and demand for regional Chinese food like "Sichuan, Xi'an and Hunan cuisine" is on the rise. |