Costume designer who won an Oscar for Doctor Zhivago
Phyllis Dalton was one of the great costume designers of late 20th-century cinema. Acclaimed in particular for the attention to detail she brought to period dramas and historical epics, she won two Oscars, said The New York Times. The first was for "Doctor Zhivago", for which she had to design more than 3,000 costumes – from the elegant outfits worn by the social elite before the revolution to the tattered greatcoats worn by Russian soldiers in the First World War. To add to her difficulties, scenes set in the Russian winter were filmed in Spain during the summer, so having fitted the extras with their heavy coats, she then had to persuade them not to disrobe. Her work on "Zhivago" – particularly the fur hats and fur-trimmed "Zhivago collar" – influenced couturiers across Europe, but her job, she said, was not to make beautiful outfits. It was to make the characters look real by ensuring – for instance – that their clothes had "mud in the right place", as she put it of her work on Kenneth Branagh's "Henry V", for which she won her second Oscar.
Dalton, who has died aged 99, was born in Chiswick, west London, in 1925. Her father worked for the Great Western Railway; her mother in a bank. She became interested in costume design while studying at Ealing Art College and, in 1944, she was employed as a wardrobe assistant on Laurence Olivier's "Henry V". Soon after, she joined the Women's Royal Naval Service and was posted to Bletchley Park. Her role was to operate the Bombe code-breaking machines, and she confessed that she found it "unbelievably boring". After being demobbed, she entered an art contest for Vogue and, though she didn't win it, the editor recommended her for a job at Gainsborough studios. The films she worked on over the next few years included "Rob Roy", "Our Man in Havana" and "The World of Suzie Wong".
In 1961, David Lean asked her to design the costumes for "Lawrence of Arabia" – for all the main characters but also for more than 1,000 extras. She spent months researching local textiles and tribal custom, and even the shades of sand in the desert (not all deserts are yellow, she pointed out). She dressed Peter O'Toole in an Army uniform that was too small, to convey T.E. Lawrence's discomfort with military duty; and to contrast with his flowing white robes – which in later scenes become steadily thinner, to reflect his deteriorating mental state. She helped convey a sense of Dickens' London for Carol Reed's "Oliver!" (which garnered her an Oscar nomination); she helped recreate the look of postwar England for "A Private Function" (1984); and produced fairy-tale-appropriate costumes for "The Princess Bride" (1987). For his "Henry V", Branagh asked her to make the clothes look "real and old, as if the characters had slept in them". She worked with him again on "Dead Again" (1991) and "Much Ado About Nothing" (1993), her last film.
Her own view was that unless the film was about fashion, the costumes should go unnoticed. She said that if anyone admired her work, she saw it as "a bit of a backhanded compliment". |