Romanian steak: One of the glories of Jewish cuisine

Romanian steak is the “quintessential Jewish steak,” said Noah and Rae Bernamoff in The Mile End Cookbook (Clarkson Potter). It’s usually made using the humble cut known as the skirt, and “the glory of the skirt steak” is that it’s relatively cheap and “full of flavor.” When you sear it on a skillet, “it cooks to a gorgeous, crisp-edged medium rare in just minutes.”

The rap on Jewish food is that much of it—including the smoked meats and pickles—is best left to others. At our 2-year-old delicatessen in Brooklyn, the Mile End, we’ve made it a mission to encourage people to try creating more of this delicious comfort food at home. Romanian steak is a great example of a dish you should consider adding to your regular repertoire.

Recipe of the week

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Romanian steak with spring onions

For the marinade:

• 3 tbsp Spanish paprika
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 sprigs rosemary
• 4 garlic cloves, peeled and cut in half
• One 2-lb skirt steak, cut into 4 pieces

For cooking and serving:

• 4 tbsp canola oil
• 1 bunch of spring onions (scallions)
• 1 batch scallion sauce (see below)

Mix marinade ingredients in a bowl and toss the steaks in the marinade to coat. Transfer steaks and marinade to a baking dish, cover, and refrigerate at least 3 hours or overnight.

Heat oil in a large skillet over high heat. Season steaks with kosher salt and black pepper and cook, turning once, until well seared on both sides and cooked to desired doneness. (Cook steaks in pairs if necessary.) Transfer steaks to a cutting board and let rest at least 5 minutes.

Pour off all but 1 tbsp of the beef fat and return pan to high heat. Add spring onions and cook, turning once, until lightly charred, 3 to 4 minutes.

To serve, slice steak against the grain on a deep bias. Dollop about 1½ tbsp of scallion sauce onto a plate, spreading it to cover the plate’s center. Place a couple of the charred spring onions on the sauce, then place sliced steak on top. Sprinkle with a little coarse salt and drizzle on a little olive oil. Serves 4.

Scallion sauce

• 1 bunch of scallions, roots removed
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• ½ cup canola oil
• Fresh lemon juice

Bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Add scallions and blanch about 30 seconds, until crisp-tender. Drain and plunge into a bowl of ice water, then drain again.

Chop the scallions and combine them with garlic, parsley, and lemon zest in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse several times. While the processor is running, add the oils in a slow, steady stream through the hole in the top. Continue processing until oils have emulsified and the sauce has a loose, fairly consistent texture. Add salt and lemon juice to taste. Makes about 2 cups.