Lafayette, La.: The ‘capital’ of Cajun country

The biggest city in south-central Louisiana used to be the one place not to stop during any road-trip survey of the region’s culinary pleasures, said Brett Martin in Bon Appétit. Foodies hit the surrounding smaller towns to slurp Gulf oysters or track down the “ultimate” boudin sausage. But Lafayette has “a bevy of sophisticated mouths to feed,” and over the past five years, talented chefs have returned home in bunches to make their city of 120,000 a rising capital of Cajun cuisine.

Cochon The original Cochon is still piling up awards two-plus hours away in New Orleans, making co-founder Donald Link a bit of a local hero. This “coolly modern” spin-off is located right on the Vermilion River and offers a menu of Cochon classics, from slow-roasted pulled pork to an oyster-and-bacon sandwich. 921 Camellia Blvd., (337) 993-9935

Jolie’s Louisiana Bistro The staff at Jolie’s cure their own meats for charcuterie and turn speckled trout into “as complete an expression of nose-to-tail eating as you’ll find anywhere.” The body is used in an entrée; the head and its “fatty, flavorful collar” are battered and deep-fried, and arrive open-mouth up, accompanied by a spicy rouille. 507 W. Pinhook Rd., (337) 504-2382

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The French Press On Sunday mornings, you’ll find “hungover bearded types” mingling with church families at this former print shop. They’re all after plates of the Sweet Baby Breesus—“slider-size biscuits filled with bacon, fried boudin, and Steen’s cane syrup.” 214 E. Vermilion St., (337) 233-9449