The po’boy sandwich has a hallowed place in New Orleans legend and lore, said John T. Edge in The New York Times. It’s the city’s “signature sandwich,” and once upon a time the streets were lined with competing po’boy shops that served up versions laden with roast beef and gravy, or fried shrimp on mayonnaise-slathered loaves piled high with sliced pickles, tomatoes, and shredded lettuce. Po’boy aficionados preservationists are determined to save this cultural icon “one sandwich at a time.” Here are places that still make sandwiches that deliver a sense of place and tradition with every bite.

Charlie’s Seafood
This place serves a greaseless fried catfish po’boy, but the sleeper is the dirty boy, “a liver-y take on a sloppy Joe.” 8311 Jefferson Hwy. (Shannon Lane), Harahan, La., (504) 737-3700

Liuzza’s by the Track
The beer-and-barbecue shrimp here are served in hollowed pistolette rolls. 1518 North Lopez St. (Ponce de Leon Street), (504) 218-7888

Zimmer’s Seafood
Charleen Zimmer combines sweet Louisiana shrimp with crisp white bread in a way that few other places can match. 4915 St. Anthony Ave. (Mirabeau Street), Gentilly, (504) 282-7150,