France’s forgotten Burgundies

Wines from the Côte Chalonnaise don’t get any respect, said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. The French themselves fawn and scrape before the wines of the Côte d’Or, “the great heart of Burgundy,” and all but ignore those from the Côte Chalonnaise, a subregion to the south. The reds here are made from Pinot Noir, but are much less sweet than New World Pinots.

These long-neglected Burgundies are suddenly becoming more competitive in the marketplace—mainly because viticultural advances have made them more enjoyable to drink. Our Times panel recently tasted 25, and gave top marks to these.

Vincent Dureuil-Janthial Rully En Guesnes 2005 ($37)

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Best of show. A serious wine with “long, lingering flavors of sweet fruit.”

Jean-Marc Joblot Givry Premier Cru Clos de la Servoisine 2005 ($47) “Earthy yet delicate.”

Joseph Faiveley Mercurey Premier Cru Clos des Myglands 2006 ($40) Mineral and fruit flavors.

Chofflet-Valdenaire Givry 2005 ($24)

“Best Value.” A delicate, light-bodied, well-balanced wine.