Critics’ choice: Outings that begin with oysters

Row 34; Dover; Kimball House

Row 34 Boston

When a place calls itself “a workingman’s oyster bar,” it creates certain expectations, said Devra First in The Boston Globe. The workingmen who frequent this cavernous, industrial-style new joint in Fort Point gab more about stock options than stevedoring, but that’s okay. Row 34 nails a key part of the equation: It’s “relaxed, loose, and loud, a happy place with great food and even better beer.” The oysters themselves have a fine pedigree. Row 34 is the latest addition to a growing family of popular Boston oyster bars launched and supplied by Island Creek Oysters of nearby Duxbury. Row 34 serves its oysters on ice, “with just the right amount of embellishment: lemon, cocktail sauce, a classic mignonette, and a delightful spicy version with Southeast Asian flavors.” The kitchen misses the mark here and there, but there are dishes on the menu—like the house-made bucatini with clams—“that will haunt diners with cravings for months to come.” To get “the full, convivial Row 34 experience,” order dinner at the bar. The “frenetically busy” staff makes every patron feel plugged in. 383 Congress St., (617) 553-5900

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