Chicken wings: A beer snack goes haute

It was only a matter of time before chefs started experimenting with “the ultimate bar food,” said Alessandra Bulow in Epicurious.com. Fifty years after Buffalo’s Anchor Bar started the whole tradition, innovators like the three below are pushing wings to new heights, using techniques previously not wasted on beer snacks.

GreenhouseTavern Cleveland. Taking his inspiration from classic duck leg confit, chef Jonathon Sawyer cures his wings for 36 hours; gently cooks them for 12 more in beef, chicken, and duck fat; and then air-dries them for 24 hours to crisp the skin. They’re served dressed with lime, scallion, charred jalapeño, wheat-beer vinegar, and raw garlic. 2038 E. 4th St., (216) 443-0511

The Bazaar at the SLS Hotel Beverly HillsLos Angeles.After similarly curing and confiting his wings,modernist-cuisine chef José Andrés debones and lightly pan-fries them before tossing them in a spicy, thick demi-glace. To boost the flavor of the traditional toppings, he compresses diced celery in a vacuum sealer and whips blue cheese into a rich cream. 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., (310) 246-5555

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Sweet Cheeks QBoston. This upscale barbecue joint headed by Top Chef contestant Tiffani Faison introduced its Monster Wings in January. They’re brined with star anise and fennel seeds for two days, then smoked over white and red oak. After a dip in the fryer, they’re dusted with a salty-sweet dry rub. “As the sugar melts, the smoky wings develop an irresistible caramelized crust.” 1381 Boylston St., (617) 266-1300