Spanish duck: The year’s hottest bird, with olives and sherry

If you’re new to cooking duck, don’t consider it simply an alternative to chicken.

Duck is the new pork, said Hank Shaw in Duck, Duck, Goose (Ten Speed Press). Everywhere you go these days, you can find adventurous variations popping up on menus: duck consommé in Minneapolis, crispy duck tongues in Kansas City, duck leg meat that’s been braised, pulled, and stuffed into tacos in Austin.

If you’re new to cooking duck, don’t consider it simply an alternative to chicken. “In fact, it is better to associate duck with beef than with other poultry: Think of the breast meat as a steak, and the rest of the bird as the brisket.” You can pan-sear a breast to create a memorable meal, but other parts should be braised until they’re fork tender.

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