Country captain: A taste of India by way of the South

Country captain is “a wonderful expression of history through food,” said John Currence in Pickles, Pigs & Whiskey (Andrews McMeel.) Though its origins are debated, this Indian-inspired stew, usually made with chicken, has been a Southern favorite for generations—a fact that “clearly illustrates the importance that the Indian spice trade played in the Lowcountry of South Carolina.”

Many recipes call for a store-bought curry, but making your own garam masala “really elevates this dish.” I credit the blend below to Vishwesh Bhatt, the chef de cuisine at Snackbar, one of my Oxford, Miss., restaurants. He has “perhaps the deftest hand” for blending spices that I’ve ever seen.

Recipe of the week: Veal country captain

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• 1 lb veal top round
• 1½ tsp salt
• 5 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tbsp garam masala (below)
• 2 tbsp each unsalted butter and bacon fat
• 1 cup sliced yellow onions
• 1 tbsp minced garlic
• ½ cup julienned green bell peppers
• ¾ cup julienned yellow bell peppers
• 2 cups chopped tomatoes
• 2 tsp thyme leaves
• 2 tsp Madras curry powder
• ¼ tsp red pepper flakes
• 1 cup veal stock or unsalted beef broth
• 1 cup crushed tomatoes with their juices
• ½ cup dried currants
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 6 tbsp dry red wine
• 1 stick cold unsalted butter, cubed

Preheat oven to 350. Slice veal into 10 medallions of 1½ ounces. Place medallions between sheets of plastic wrap. Pound with meat tenderizer until 1⁄8 inch thick. Season with salt, black pepper, and garam masala.

In a saucepan over medium heat, melt butter and 1 tbsp of bacon fat. Sauté onions and garlic until transparent. Add peppers; sauté until tender. Stir in chopped tomatoes, thyme, curry powder, and red pepper flakes; bring to a simmer. Stir in stock, crushed tomatoes, and currants; bring to a boil. Simmer 35 minutes.

Heat two ovenproof sauté pans until hot. Divide olive oil and 1 tbsp bacon fat between the pans; swirl to coat. Add medallions and brown, about 1 minute per side. Remove medallions, add 3 tbsp wine to each pan, swirl to deglaze, then add half of tomato sauce to each pan. Return medallions to pans and spoon sauce over top. Place pans in oven and bake 10 minutes.

Transfer medallions to plates. Divide cold butter between pans and whisk into sauce. Season with salt and black pepper. Serves 4.

Garam masala

• 1 tbsp cumin seeds
• 1½ tsp each coriander seeds, cardamom pods, and black peppercorns
• 1 tsp each ground cinnamon and ground ginger
• ½ tsp each whole clove, ground nutmeg, and crushed dried bay leaves

Preheat oven to 350. Place ingredients in ovenproof sauté pan or baking sheet. Bake until fragrant, 5 to 7 minutes. Let cool; grind in spice grinder. Makes ¼ cup.