Bierzo: Spain’s ficklest red?

Bierzo can be as maddening as it is thrilling, said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. A distinctive red from northwestern Spain, it’s made primarily from the mencía grape, and is characterized by its “beguiling, exotic aromas of wild red fruit.” But finding a “beautifully balanced” Bierzo requires some homework these days, because popularity has bred some missteps.

2010 Raúl Pérez Vico ($35). This “dense, burly” Bierzo from a “superstar” winemaker offers “stony” fruit flavors “cushioned by well-integrated oak.”

2011 El Pájaro Rojo ($16). This “surprisingly complex” bargain pick is “a juicy, fruity, structured wine with spicy, herbal notes.”

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2009 Casar de Burbia ($25). “Fresh, peppery, and earthy,” this one has great balance.