Bierzo: Spain’s ficklest red?

Bierzo can be as maddening as it is thrilling.

Bierzo can be as maddening as it is thrilling, said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. A distinctive red from northwestern Spain, it’s made primarily from the mencía grape, and is characterized by its “beguiling, exotic aromas of wild red fruit.” But finding a “beautifully balanced” Bierzo requires some homework these days, because popularity has bred some missteps.

2010 Raúl Pérez Vico ($35). This “dense, burly” Bierzo from a “superstar” winemaker offers “stony” fruit flavors “cushioned by well-integrated oak.”

2011 El Pájaro Rojo ($16). This “surprisingly complex” bargain pick is “a juicy, fruity, structured wine with spicy, herbal notes.”

Subscribe to The Week

Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

SUBSCRIBE & SAVE
https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/flexiimages/jacafc5zvs1692883516.jpg

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

Sign up

2009 Casar de Burbia ($25). “Fresh, peppery, and earthy,” this one has great balance.

To continue reading this article...
Continue reading this article and get limited website access each month.
Get unlimited website access, exclusive newsletters plus much more.
Cancel or pause at any time.
Already a subscriber to The Week?
Not sure which email you used for your subscription? Contact us