Wine: Old-school Chiantis

“Are there any true Chianti wines left?” asked Ed McCarthy in WineReviewOnline.com. In the 1990s, many Tuscan winemakers tried to modernize the fabled Sangiovese blend by adding such international varietals as cabernet sauvignon, then aging the wines in new oak. Thankfully, some producers recognized that the delicate soul of Sangiovese was being obliterated and have reverted to traditional methods.

San Giusto a Rentennano ($23). Made with 5 percent canaiolo, this widely acclaimed Chianti Classico is consistently outstanding.

Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rufina ($16). Three indigenous grapes are blended with 95 percent Sangiovese in this “exceptional” wine and great value from the Chianti Rufina zone.

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Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico ($22). This “full-bodied and quite tannic” wine lands—deservedly—on “everyone’s Best Chianti list.”