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Albariño: Spain’s pale star

It’s not hard to see why albariño has become so popular.

It’s not hard to see why albariño has become so popular, said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Bring home any 10 bottles of Spain’s best-known white wine and you’ll find them “resolutely dry, relentlessly citrus-flavored,” and “consistently pleasant.” Far rarer, though, are albariños like these, each of which delivers “a jolt of dimension.”

2011 Forja Del Salnés Rías Baixas Albariño Leirana ($35). Our panel’s top choice featured “deep, true mineral and fruit flavors.”

2011 Granbazán Rías Baixas Albariño Etiqueta Ámbar ($22). Our best-value selection proved “steely and complex,” with lingering spice and citrus flavors.

2011 Do Ferreiro Rías Baixas Albariño Cepas Vellas ($40). Though this tangy, juicy wine won’t suit all tastes, it’s “a wonderful, age-worthy example of the complexity that albariño can achieve.”

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