Critics’ choice: The doughnut’s new frontiers

Doughnut Plant New York

“A fried-dough renaissance” is sweeping the nation, said Gabriella Gershenson in Saveur. As a growing wave of doughnut artisans is making chain bakeries’ offerings look stale in comparison, New York’s Doughnut Plant has emerged as one of the movement’s pioneers. Nineteen years ago, Mark Isreal was working out of the basement of a Lower East Side tenement when he pulled out his late grandfather’s recipe for yeast doughnuts and started baking them for local retailers and restaurants. Experimentation came quickly—glazes made from pistachios or farmers market raspberries. But even his roasted chestnut and crème-brûlée doughnuts wouldn’t be worthy of their acclaim if Isreal didn’t pay so much attention to the basics: locally sourced, high-quality ingredients and frying oil that’s changed daily. “He even has the flour milled to his specifications, all in pursuit of the perfect sinker,” and his example has “paved the way” for innovators throughout the country. Stop in for a light, fluffy sample or two at his flagship shop: “They’re so pristine, even my mother approves.” 379 Grand St., (212) 505-3700

Zeke’s DC Donutz Washington, D.C.

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“Cupcakes are so 2008”—and the proof resides at Zeke’s, said Nevin Martell in WashingtonPost.com. Opened two months ago, this subterranean Dupont Circle doughnut bakery was forced to make a last-minute name change when fans of local 1980s graffiti artist Cool Disco Dan charged that “Cool Disco Donut” was more infringement than tribute. The throwback graffiti decor remains, as does restaurateur Aaron Gordon’s array of 21st-century doughnuts. Lowlights in the lineup include the “offensive in every sense” Sexy Mexy and a peanut-butter-frosted doughnut topped with an undercooked slice of bacon. But the Little Red Corvette comes filled with a wonderful homemade raspberry jelly. And the Ferrero Rocher is simply transporting: “Dusted with golden flakes,” the chocolate-frosted doughnut with hazelnut filling tastes “just like its namesake candy—decadent and divine.” If you instead choose one of the misfires, wash it down with a $2 cereal milk—cold milk steeped in Fruit Loops, Cocoa Puffs, or Corn Flakes. 2029 P St. NW, (202) 822-6200

Glam Doll Donuts Minneapolis

Nobody wants a doughnut that’s most notable for its looks, said Jess Fleming in the St. Paul, Minn., Pioneer Press. So it’s a pleasure to report that the pastries sold at Minneapolis’s “adorable” new contribution to the great doughnut revival aren’t just about pretty surfaces and come-hither names. These fluffy-on-the-inside beauties feature unique flavor personalities, from the surprisingly tart Femme Fatale to the “aptly named” Bombshell, with its spicy chocolate filling and cayenne-pecan topping. The shop’s female servers have all been “dressed in their vintage punk-rock best,” and they’ll be happy to answer questions as they pull your selections from a lime-green bakery case. You can find traditional doughnuts in the Twin Cities that are more “melt-in-your-mouth yummy,” but you won’t find any more adventurous. Glam Doll’s chocolate Calendar Girl with its salted-caramel filling is positively “addictive,” while the peanut butter and sriracha in the Chart Topper prove to be “unexpectedly perfect together.” 2605 Nicollet Ave., (612) 345-7064