Recipe of the week: Pasta all’Amatriciana

In Italy, few dishes are as controversial as pasta all’Amatriciana, said Cook’s Illustrated. Both Rome and the town of Amatrice claim it as their own, and there’s no consensus on its exact makeup. Here in the U.S., a greater worry is how to find cured pork jowl, or guanciale. So our version derives authentic-tasting results using salt pork.

Pasta all’Amatriciana

• 8 oz salt pork, rind removed, rinsed and patted dry
• ½ cup water
• ½ tsp red pepper flakes
• 2 tbsp tomato paste
• ¼ cup red wine
• one 28-oz can diced tomatoes
• 1 cup finely grated pecorino Romano
• 1 lb spaghetti
• 1 tbsp salt

Slice pork into ¼-inch strips, then cut strips crosswise into ¼-inch pieces. Over medium heat, bring pork and water to simmer in a nonstick skillet; cook until water evaporates and pork starts to sizzle, 5 to 8 minutes. Reduce heat to medium low and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until fat renders and pork turns golden. Transfer pork to a bowl. Pour off and reserve all but 1 tbsp fat from skillet.

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Return skillet to medium heat. Add pepper flakes and tomato paste, stirring constantly. Stir in wine, then tomatoes with their juice, and rendered pork. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until thickened, 12 to 16 minutes. In a bowl smear 2 tbsp fat and ½ cup pecorino together, forming a paste. Cook spaghetti until al dente, reserving 1 cup cooking water before draining. Return noodles to pot and add sauce, 1⁄3 cup cooking water, and pecorino-fat paste, tossing to coat. Add more water to adjust consistency and stir in remaining pecorino. Serves 4 to 6.