Kelly English Steakhouse St. Louis
The name Kelly English might tell you that this steakhouse isn’t all about steaks, said Dave Lowry in St. Louis magazine. English, a Louisiana native and one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs back in 2009, has given gamblers at this St. Louis–area casino one more decision-making challenge by countering the beef lineup at his namesake enterprise with some “serious” Creole alternatives. Diners can watch the traffic on the casino’s promenade, but this is a classy room, a long, narrow space “outfitted with plush upholstered booths and tables, all draped with crisp linen.” Redfish is the kitchen’s most popular dish, the quick-seared fish “firm and moist” and served with smashed potatoes and a buttery sauce studded with crawfish tails. Should you opt for a steak, go with a side of the creamy spinach Madeline to learn why Louisiana loves it so. Or avoid choosing altogether by ordering English’s special surf and turf: a New York strip stuffed with oysters and blue cheese, served over a bacon-and-potato hash and “smothered” in bordelaise and hollandaise sauces. “It’s lavish—like Cirque du Soleil meets Liberace lavish.” Harrah’s St. Louis, 777 Casino Center, Maryland Heights, Mo., (314) 770-8248
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RuYi Milwaukee
At this pan-Asian casino restaurant, “authenticity isn’t so much the byword as deliciousness,” said Carol Deptolla in the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel. As chef Tony Ho proves with his seafood dishes, “so much of great cooking comes down to procuring the best ingredients, then having the sense not to mess with them too much.” His fried walleye in tempura batter, a Friday special, is “the best walleye I’ve ever had,” and “just as beguiling” is his steamed branzino in a ginger-soy-white-wine sauce. Yet RuYi is “as adept with duck as it is with fish,” the broth in one of its generous noodle soups seeming to capture “the very essence” of the bird. The slot machines at the Potawatomi Bingo Casino don’t do anything for me, but “some of those dishes were on my mind for days afterward.” Potawatomi Bingo Casino, 1721 W. Canal St., (414) 847-7335
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