Wine: Austrian reds

Red wines from Austria aren’t trendy, but they’re “worth paying attention to,” said Dave McIntyre in The Washington Post. Like northern Italy’s reds, they’re “food-friendly wines with very little oak influence.” Because the 2011 growing season was excellent, it’s a good time to learn the turf. The best Austrian reds come from the Burgenland region, the source of these three standouts.

2009 Leo Hillinger Hill Side ($25). This “energetic” syrah blend has a “smoky” character “rendered sleek and lithe” by 20 percent zweigelt.

2008 Neckenmarkt Blaufränkisch ($13). There’s “a nice purity and lightness” to this blaufränkisch, which features “high-toned fruit, cherry, and plum flavors.”

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2008 Tinhof Blaufränkisch Von den Hügeln ($26). The acidity of this delicious wine and its “impeccable balance” make it a great choice for a casual dinner.