Mexican mashup: Carne asada that will raise eyebrows

Roy Choi’s fleet of Kogi BBQ trucks introduced Los Angeles to his celebrated Mexican mashup cuisine, said Sam Sifton in The New York Times. And the locals have embraced his polyglot recipes and “big flavor” dishes that “taste of Los Angeles.”

The Korean-American’s riffs on life can be found on his blog, RidingShotgunLA.com, along with recipes and rants. Among the blog’s recipes, you won’t find classic carne asada—marinated, grilled beef—a staple of Mexican and Southwestern cuisine. Choi’s Asian-inflected version, with mirin and an abundance of garlic, is likely to “raise eyebrows in Puebla and Laredo alike.”

Choi’s bold remix of a Mexican classic is a testament to the diversity of his hometown, where immigrant cuisines mingle on the streets, moving quickly “from flirtation to vigorous coupling.”

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Recipe of the week

Carne asada

2 jalapeños

1 medium tomato, cored and cut into quarters

1 small yellow onion or ¼ large one, peeled and cut into quarters

5 cloves garlic

2 tbsp white granulated sugar

¼ cup ancho chile powder

1 tbsp ground black pepper

¼ cup kosher salt

½ large bunch cilantro, leaves and stems, well rinsed

¹/3 cup fresh-squeezed orange juice (about 1 orange)

3 tbsp fresh-squeezed lime juice (1 or 2 limes)

¼ cup mirin

One 12-oz can (1½ cups) Budweiser or other lager

2 lbs skirt steak, cut into 10-inch sections

2 tbsp olive oil

Preheat broiler. Place jalapeños on a cookie sheet or in an ovenproof skillet and broil until skins begin to blacken and bubble. (You can also do this by putting the peppers directly over a burner on your stove or on a gas grill.) Pull stems and seeds from jalapeños and discard; skin peppers and put into food processor.

Add tomato, onion, garlic, sugar, ancho chile powder, black pepper, and salt to processor, and pulse to combine. Add cilantro, fruit juices, mirin, and beer. Pulse again until smooth. Transfer marinade to large, nonreactive bowl and submerge steak. Cover and place in refrigerator for at least 4 hours or overnight.

Build a fire in your grill. If using a gas grill, turn all burners to high. When all coals are covered with gray ash and fire is hot (you can hold your hand 6 inches over the grill for only a few seconds), remove steak from marinade, drizzle with olive oil, place on grill directly over coals, and cook until deeply seared, turning a few times, approximately 10 minutes for medium-rare. Remove steak from the grill and allow to rest a few minutes. Slice against the grain into thin strips and serve with warm corn tortillas, pico de gallo, grilled scallions—whatever you like. Serves 6.

Adapted from Roy Choi, RidingShotgunLA.com