Godello: Spain’s great white?

The jury is still out on godello, said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Pushed to near extinction in the 1970s by winemakers who favored more prolific varieties, this white grape has since made a big comeback and has been hailed as Spain’s answer to white burgundy. Maybe. To me, godello (go-DAY-oh) is more akin to chardonnay. It’s a versatile grape, able to strongly convey the particular techniques, perhaps even the particular soil, that produced it.

2010 A. Coroa Valdeorras ($25). This “fresh and inviting” godello has “deep, rich mineral and fruit flavors,” plus “a succulent lip-smacking texture.”

2010 Castro de Lobarzán Monterrei Blanco ($20). “Stony mineral and rich herbal flavors” distinguish this “focused” and “lively” wine.

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2010 Pazos del Rey Monterrei ($14). Our “best value” pick is a “zesty and harmonious” white with “aromas of ginger, minerals, and licorice.”