Recipe of the week: Smoked Gouda macaroni and cheese

“Mac and cheese is terrible for you,” said L.V. Anderson in Slate.com. Whatever other arguments this cafeteria staple inspires, there’s no debating that few other meals pack as much butterfat per forkful. But make it right, and this is a dish “rich and delicious enough” to dissolve all the regional and class differences that divide this nation.

Smoked Gouda macaroni and cheese

• 1 lb macaroni or other short cut pasta
• 1 quart whole milk
• 3 bay leaves
• pinch cayenne pepper
• salt and black pepper
• 4 tbsp butter
• ¼ cup all-purpose flour
• 1 lb smoked Gouda or other semihard cheese, grated

Heat oven to 375 degrees and grease a 9-by-13-inch pan. Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add macaroni and cook

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until just beginning to turn tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Put milk, bay leaves, cayenne, and some salt and pepper in large saucepan over medium-low heat. As that heats, put butter in another large saucepan over medium heat. When it melts, add flour and cook, whisking constantly, until mixture turns golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Gradually whisk warm milk mixture into butter mixture and continue to cook, whisking frequently, until sauce has thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Turn off heat, remove bay leaves, and stir in all but 1 cup of cheese. Toss sauce with macaroni, then transfer mixture to greased pan and sprinkle remaining cheese on top.

Bake until cheese bubbles and top is golden brown, about 20–25 minutes. Serves 6 to 8.